Barrel O' Fun Worm Bin Instructions

Building the Barrel O' Fun

These are the instructions for the assembly and construction of Organic Flapjack's Barrel O' Fun worm bin.

How to Build

How to Build the Barrel O' Fun Worm Bin:

1. The first step, after obtaining a food-grade 55-gallon drum, is to cut it in half lengthwise, as shown on the left.
2. Cut 3” off of one end of one half, seen as the line marked for cutting. This will make the “nest” barrel.
3. Then lay the intact half inside the nest barrel. Adjust the barrels until they overlap by 5”.
4. A ¼” hole is drilled near the top of the connection on one side. The barrels are then bolted together with a ¼” bolt and nut, with the bolt head on the outside of the connection. This is repeated around the connection until the barrels are well connected (approximately 5-6 bolts). A hole is then drilled or cut at the end of the nest barrel for the spigot. The spigot is then installed.
5. Next, drill 5-10 ¼” holes at the bottom of the dividing wall for drainage.
6. A gutter strainer is then trimmed so that it will lay flush with the bottom of the barrel, and cover the entrance to the spigot. 100% silicone caulk is then applied to the area around the spigot, and is also used to glue the gutter strainer to the bottom of the barrel.
7. The outside of the connection is caulked as well, in order to prevent leaking. The caulk is then allowed to set for at least 24 hours.
8. After the caulk has set, the base is created. Six cinder blocks are placed underneath the corners of the pallets.
9. The pallets then have the center of the top planks removed, creating a trough.
10. The barrel is then placed in the trough. The end of the barrel opposite the spigot is elevated by placing a 2”x4” across the trough.
11. The connection of the barrel is supported by placing a small cut of 4”x4” lumber inside the trough.

    The rain cover is constructed with ½” PVC piping. For this barrel, four 2’7” lengths, two 7¼” lengths, two ½” T-joints, and one ½” 90° elbow are used. Two of the 2’7” sections are joined by a T-joint, to make a total of two 5’2” crossbars that will span the length of the barrel.

12. ¼” notches are cut 1” from each end, these notches hold the crossbars in place.
13. The crossbars are placed apart by 9½”. The 7¼” sections are joined by the 90° elbow. The free ends of the sections are placed in the free opening of each T-joint, to provide a tent for the 10 mil plastic sheet.
14. The 10 mil plastic sheet is laid over the top and cut, with an overhang of at least 6” on each side. Grommets are installed at each corner of the sheet, folding over the corners for extra strength.

    The worms are then added to the bin, along with compostable waste and the bedding material (horse manure or shredded paper).

15. Worms should be added at the ratio of one pound of worms to every half-pound of waste. The sheet is then bungeed to the pallet with four 24” bungee cords. One end is hooked into each corner, and the other end is wrapped around a board on the pallet. The sheet is then adjusted to ensure a snug fit.

How to Maintain

The sheet is removed weekly in order to feed the worms. After approximately 6-8 weeks, the compost should be ready to harvest. When it is time to harvest, only one corner of the bin (about one quarter of the surface) is fed. Over a few days, the worms will migrate to this area. This area is then scooped up and placed in the empty half of the bin along with more waste and bedding. The vermicompost can then be shoveled out of the full half, and the cycle continues.

Over time, due to the break down of organic waste, leachate will build up at the bottom of the bin. As the barrel is elevated, the leachate should drain through the drain holes in the divider and down to the spigot area. The spigot can then be opened and the leachate collected. The leachate can be mix at a ratio of 1 cup of leachate to 2 gallons of water. The resulting liquid can be applied to soil or plants.