2009-2015 Toyota Prius Hood Hinge Replacement

I'll update this guide later when I have the time. However, this should provide enough details for those savvy enough to take on the repair project themselves.

10mm bolts are used for the four fender bolts (one on the headlight assembly that may also need to be aligned if planned) and four 12mm bolts are used for the hood hinge (x2 - hood and x2 - frame).

A regular 12mm socket with an extension can be used with either a 1/4" or 3/8" drive noting that you'll have to pull the fender back more for the larger drive if not apparent.

The Video Instructions (3rd video below) I found on Youtube showing a great overview and two videos I made to document what I noticed wasn't present in as much detail.

Mainly I made this next video to show that the fender didn't have to be pulled out as far, as the above video demonstrated, to remove the hinge and that the fender connection behind the side glass window wasn't broken and is only that shape by design from what I observed on all the gen 3 priuses I inspected at the yards. A cloth or piece of leather between the extension is also a good idea so to prevent damage to the fender paint.

I also wanted to show not only a 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet with extension (ideally with a magnet at the socket end or be prepared to have a telescoping magnet to remove and insert the bolts) is required. The "1-3/4 in. Impact Rated Magnetic Metric Nut Setters" from Harbor Freight work well and I'd add an "Hercules - Bit - Impact Rated 6 in. Extension Magnetic Bit Holder" or just use the "6 in. Impact Rated Magnetic Metric Nut Setters" or equivalent to reduce the need to pull the fender back as much.

Note that in the next video the Polyurethane I was referring to is the adhesive used to adhere the rubber trim piece that doesn't need to be completely removed. Only peeled back enough to gain access to the 10mm fender bolt that screws into the top of the hinge. The plastic part is removed using a small screwdriver, pry bar or trim removal tool carefully from the front of the piece prying up and towards the side you're working from.