Introduction

Action cams are going to see action, and the lenses are at risk of scratches. Replacement lenses are affordable, but what tools and facilities do you need for replacing a scratched lens? Kudos to LA Hover Bikes for a super helpful video.

There remain some mysteries about how Insta360 repairs lenses. Presently I feel like I know more about what not to do than what is the best way. Please contribute to this procedure if you find a better way to remove the lens or to seal the new one!

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    • Generic replacement lenses are available on eBay. Shipping can take several weeks. Quality may vary.

    • I've ordered two lenses from different vendors. Neither had the factory optical coating. One had a stairstep grind that causes a scalloping artifact in the image. In the photo, this skylight has a rectangular opening.

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    • If you are replacing only one of the lenses, then first protect the other lens from scuffs.

    • I used masking tape and a cotton ball to cover and pad the lens.

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    • LA Hover Bikes found the best approach is to break the lens and remove the pieces. In theory the lens could be popped out. The factory uses a lens adhesive that does not release by heat. Alternatively, Life after 40 used a small screwdriver to pry out the lens.

    • A Dremel cutting wheel can be used to score the glass. The "dome" shape of the glass makes it difficult to crack.

    • Take care not to scratch the window covering the imager. Control the break, control overtravel, or overtravel excentric of the central window.

    • The window is not in the focal plane. Small scratches on the window are spread over the image and cause generally reduced clarity rather than defined spots or lines on the image.

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    • If heating the camera, first remove the battery and SD card low-temperature components.

    • I did not have heat gun. I heated a surface to 150F, removed the heat source, and put the scratched lens in contact with the surface.

    • I heated the lens to 150F and I could not tell that the adhesive released.

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    • Remove excess adhesive. A dental pick or other tool tip could be used. Turn the camera so gravity cleans the cavity instead of filling it.

    • If you remove minimal material, the new lens will snap in snugly. If you are aggressive the lens will fit loosely and need adhesive to hold it in. If you do not remove excess material, the new lens will not seat and the camera will stitch the images with a visible seam.

    • Alcohol may be used liberally to clean the lens. A soft toothbrush or Q-tips may be used. Here I soaked a film of superglue in alcohol and it wiped off.

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    • Any spec of dust or lint on the inside of the lens or in the cavity can show up as a visible defect in all of your video or images. This work would be best performed in a clean-room, but you don't have one.

    • Choose a room with dust-free air. Gravity removes dust from still air. Filters remove dust from moving air. Probably not the same location where you had the Dremel tool...

    • Use cotton balls, rubbing alcohol, or similar to thoroughly clean all dust and deposits from a 2' x 2' sealed/smooth work surface

    • Clean the cavity of the camera with alcohol and a fresh Q-tip and place it upside down to dry.

    • Open the new lens and clean the inside with alcohol and a fresh Q-tip and place it upside down to dry.

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    • Ideally, the new lens will snap into place and hold firmly.

    • DO NOT use superglue to seal the lens. Over a few days it will deposit a film on the inside of the lens.

    • Here the lens was loose. I applied a small amount of epoxy to the outside, wiped to remove excess, centered the lens and allowed the epoxy to cure. I do not have a seam in my 360 image.

Student4Life

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