MacBook Power Cord 5-Pin MagSafe Connector and Cable Replacement

Written By: Pierre Merineau

Comments: 79

MacBook Power Cord 5-Pin MagSafe Connector and Cable Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

15 - 30 minutes

Introduction

If your MacBook no longer charges or you don't see the little orange or green charging light when it's plugged in, check the cord for signs of damage.

In this guide we will change the cord connecting the charger to the MacBook.

Alternatively, you can use this guide to repair your existing cable instead of replacing it.

Tools

Parts

Replacement cable 5 pins (MagSafe)

Step 1

Tools required:
A decent soldering iron
Wire cutters
Desoldering pump
A big heavy-duty spudger
A pair of snap-ring pliers for use with external snap-rings. Really any long-nose pliers would do, this is just perfect for the job if you happen to have a pair :-)
Super glue
1 or 2 small clamps

Step 2

Open the cord winding flaps.
Heat the power brick's plastic casing with a hair dryer, and/or run a razor blade along the seam between the two halves of the casing, in order to weaken the adhesive. This will make it easier to pry the case open.
Insert your pliers and pry slowly. (Make sure they stay seated in the inside corners, or you may injure yourself or gouge the case.)
The cord winding flap will fall out.
Do the same on the other side.
Work slowly!

There is an easier way to open the case. Get a number 10 spanner and use it to prise off the case below the cable tidy clips. Wedge the outer 'fork' into the near corner of the space below the cable tidy clips and push the spanner away from you. Pop! Off it comes. Takes 2 seconds with very little physical effort. It is similar to the pliers approach but easier to do.

Stephen Ashworth - 12/09/17

Steven, could you elaborate on your suggestion? I think you’re suggesting we use a spanner bit, which looks like a a flathead screwdriver with a notch in the center of its straight edge. But spanner also means wrench in British English, so clarification would be helpful.

Where is the near corner of th space below the clips. Could that also be described as “one of the side seams, right where it terminates and the depression that accommodates a tidy hook that’s not in use not in use begins”?

El Crashitan - 17/09/17

Dear Pierre:

I’m not able to envision a successful implementation of this step. I don’t have a bench vise handy so I can’t just mess around until it works. If the needle-nose pliers is just sitting on the vise, and I’m holding the adaptor, what forces the pliers to pry the case open instead of clattering to the bench? Got photos?

Carrie aka El Crashitan

El Crashitan - 17/09/17

What works for me is to put the power brick into a bench vise with the top of the vise jaws aligned with the power brick’s mid-case seam. Use a shop rag to prevent the case plastic from being scarred by the vise jaws. Slowly tighten the vise until you hear the popping sound of the plastic joint glue breaking. Repeat as necessary, with the power brick in different orientations within the vise. Eventually the seam will be broken and you can remove the case halves.

gordonhamachi - 15/11/17

Stephen’s visionary suggestion to use 10 mm open end wrench (also called 10 mm ‘combination ‘ wrench…) proved an EASY way to pry open the casing !

Hold the case w/ left hand ; with ‘cord-winding flaps’ facing up .

Flip open the ‘cord-winding flap’ nearest your left hand thumb which is gripping the case.

Insert open end of your handy 10 mm wrench ( I tried 9, 11, & 12 mm wrench to compare …the 10mm is best ! ) into the newly exposed space under the just opened ‘cord-winding flap’. Pinning the ‘pointed end ‘ of wrench into corner under the flap which is about to become a PIVOT point… gently rotate the wrench about 30 degrees away from you , UNTIL the outside rounded shoulder of the wrench comes into contact w/ the OTHER inside edge of the case !

While keeping the wrench pinned firmly against its ‘pivoting’ corner… CONTINUE trying to slowly rotate the wrench away from you… You are now PRYING the case open !

Saved me on this one… Thanks,Stephen !- JJoslin ( Detroit, Mich.-south of Canadian borderline)

John Joslin - 11/02/18

Put adaptor in vice as described above & gently squeeze. You should hear at least one click/snap as I did to crack to glue seal. Don’t squeeze too tight or you’ll crack the body. Use a strongish knife blade, I used a cheap swiss army knife blade along the joins on all four sides. Don’t give up if 3 sides don’t come loose. Mine started to come loose on the cord side as it has less glue/surface area to hold it together. Start at the corners, there the easiest & tapped firmly with a hammer. It will start to come apart. Then use a thicker knife blade or similar & repeat. Pry open with small screwdriver slots & even the shaft of smaller drivers. Thanks to the above ideas. The more the merrier.

ignas - 24/07/18

I tried the open-end wrench method with great success, once I figured out what was going on. regarding 10mm vs other sizes, I think it depends on the shape of your particular wrench, and also which wattage MagSafe you are trying to open, as each one is a different size. I used a 14mm on two MagSafe 2 60w chargers, and it opened both like magic.

Fritz Toch - 02/07/19

Thanks @jajoslin, your suggestion works perfectly!

Sebastian - 19/05/20

I had to use a cutter. Not so clean cut work but much more easy.

Esteban Obiglio - 28/08/20

With a heat gun and a lot of patience, it’s possible to get the case apart without actually breaking any of the plastic. This makes sealing it up again much easier and cleaner. Also, something that I haven’t seen mentioned, and is hard to see in photos because the plastic is usually broken, is that the seam between the halves is a tongue-in-groove seam. This is helpful to know when you’re trying to pry the halves apart, so that you know where you can apply leverage.

Martin Cooper - 27/01/21

Step 3

If your charger is never opened before, it would be difficult to pry it open. Try bench-vise tools to add power your needle nose plier
Handle of your needle-nose plier is laid upon the closed bench vise, insert into the casing, then roll the vise slowly.
The casing would be cracked and you can continue to next step

Step 4

Finish it by hand; you'll have to apply some force.
At some point, the case will crack open. (The edges are glued all the way around, and the interior metal sheeting may be glued to the case with a foam adhesive as well.)
The corner pieces inside the winding flaps, with their flat metal springs, may come loose as well; note their arrangement with springs pointing toward the cord, for reinstallation later.

Step 5

Carefully remove the inside from the shell.
Be careful not to touch any of the capacitor leads, or you may receive an electric shock.
If the inside sticks to one half of the shell, it's probably due to (a) glue around the edge of the A/C connector, and/or (b) foam glue between the inside and the flat of the shell.
Use a heavy duty spudger or other pry tool to pry the edge of the A/C connector from the shell, and carefully pry between the shell and the inside to break the foam glue.
Use only ESD-safe pry tools. Do not use metal pry tools or screwdrivers.
You may find the metallic sheeting breaks a little; that's okay, but try to minimize the damage!

Sorry for my English, but I wanted to tell you that for security, before repairing the charger, it is recommended to download the power source, for this I share a video where it shows how you can download the capacitors with a simple screwdriver.

https://youtu.be/G1HYBqeWSHI?t=310

sosapple - 25/11/18

Do you mean discharging the capacitors?

It’s better to use probes connected to a power resistor than to use a screwdriver. Bumbling around with a screwdriver, you risk shorting the capacitor to something else, causing damage.

tooki - 26/11/18

Definitely avoid using a screwdriver. Use the right tool or follow this guide if you need to make one.

Jeff Suovanen - 26/11/18

Step 6

I like to insert a big spudger to make more room to work.

On the 60W adaptor you might find a small metal tab with 2 tiny rivets holding the metal plate in place. This can be pried off gently and then the metal plate can be pulled out a little to make more space to work in.

PiersC - 09/05/17

Step 7

Make sure you note the position of the positive and negative terminals.
Start by removing a bit of solder with the pump.
Separate the cables. It may require some force, so be careful not to break the board.

On the smaller 45W adapters, it is virtually impossible to desolder the white cable because the solder joint is hidden behind a capacitor.

Tip: Pull with some force on the white cable with the pliers, it should come out clean without causing damage. It is not soldered directly onto the board, there is a receptacle in between which you can pull the cable out of. You can use this receptacle to solder or clamp in the new cable, too.

Matthias Huber - 08/09/14

(on the 45W) Be careful not to pull too hard on the white cable/clamp - I managed to rip a piece out of the PCB. Fortunately, I had another power adapter (with the same cable issue) lying around.

One point that is missing from this guide:

Partially remove the copper shielding to gain access to the white cable.

Do it on the side that does not have the capacitor lead soldered to it.

Simply peel off the adhesive tape, remove the tab out of the slot and peel up the shielding (it will look like a tent) to gain some space to access the 'white' solder spot. Be careful not to put too much strain onto the electrolytic capacitor's lead.

redwoood - 01/02/15

From the pictures, it looks like too much heat was applied when desoldering, so the eyelets/vias, which connect the wires to the conductive traces on the PCB, got pulled off the PCB along with the wires. This is something to be careful with, because if it happens you can end up with a useless/irreparable power adapter. Or at least the effort and cost involved in fixing it might be something not worth dealing with. It might be simpler/safer to clip the old wires and then solder them together with the wires of the new cord (like in this repair guide: How to Repair an Apple AC Adapter Broken Cable).

blerkh - 06/05/17

On the 45W, it is indeed impossible to remove it. I had to remove the metal cover and it was not that difficult, but one should be careful because this metal cover is soldered to one of the condensers. It should be desoldered before cover removal and soldered back upon assembling. Yet, to be honest, replacing this Magsafe cable was one of the most time consuming replacements I have ever done. I am not a pro, but complete disassembling of iphone, replacing the glued batteries, etc. didn’t take that much time as this 45W magsafe cable.

kostia - 08/09/19

On the 85W charger, I also couldn’t reach the cables' soldering points without desoldering the shell and other components. So I instead opted to cut the original black and white wires, strip some of the isolation and solder the wires of the new cable directly to the old one. It was kind of hard to get a good contact, but it works. Also, you need to be very careful so the open parts of the wire don't touch any other components or each other.

dasisdormax - 25/12/19

The eBay replacement cord wire ends were too short to reach the solder points in a particular 85W supply. [Another genuine Apple 85W has solder points much closer to the strain relief.]

Couldn’t lengthen the wire ends b/c the strain relief was molded to the cord. So, clipped the original wires inside the case and soldered to the replacement cable wires, insulated with heat shrink.

Torn, though… you’d like the wires to be plenty long for soldering/heat shrink, but everything has to fit back inside the case.

prreitz - 07/05/20

Step 8

The replacement cable should be tinned with solder before solder on the board; just put the leads in place and apply heat to install it.
Bending the wire tips 90 degrees helps with installation.

you need to solder those new leads to the board - that part seems to be missing here

deanholdren - 17/06/14

Are you talking about the ends of the cable ?

If it is the case, just strip a little bit no longer than 3/16" of an inch ( like 3mm ) you have to make sure it is not too long; you can see at the step 8, there is no room on the other side of the board.

And heat it to apply soldering on it so it looks like the picture, it is easy to insert and it weld solidly.

Pierre Merineau - 18/06/14

Step 9

Carefully put the power assembly back in the first half of the casing.
It will be a tight fit!

When I opened the charger, it turns out the white wire is attached to a connection on the PCB marked "Out +", but the black one is loose so I don't know where it used to be. There are two options next to where the white wire is, one marked "Out -" and the other "ID"; also slightly further back there's one marked "ADJ". Anyone know which of those the black wire is meant to go into?

Sorry if this should be obvious, but I'm a bit of a noob... :}

Rob - 02/09/16

Step 10

Place the cable grommet in the proper position in the casing.

Step 11

Put the cord winding flappers back in position.

Step 12

Put some super glue on the cover.
Avoid the flap areas and the grommet area.

Eu uso uma cola B7000, nos nos telefones para que ela possa ser retirada com fio de cabelo no futuro

Ricardo Deferrari - 03/05/19

I used the B7000 glue, used in cell phones so that it can be taken off with the hair dryer in the future

Ricardo Deferrari - 03/05/19

Step 13

You might want to wear gloves so as not to get excess super glue on your fingers.
Hold the flaps in place and install the other half of the casing.
It will be tight—be patient!
Make sure the flaps stay in place.

Be very careful with the back ends of the metal spring pieces for the winding flaps, where they are joined to the plastic pieces. It is very easy to bend the ends when placing the top back on, and extremely difficult to flatten them again once they're bent. Angling the cord end of the top piece in first, just a little bit, helps, but I ended up having to use a miniature awl to push them into position while closing things up.

Martin Cooper - 28/01/21

Step 14

Clamp the casing together and give it a few hours for the glue to set.

Step 15

Just like new!

Good articel.

I just repaired the power adapter for my friend's MacBook and it's now working perfectly. The case cracking method is inspired! Never would have thought of using a pair of needle nose pliers that way. I hate that cliche about "thinking outside the box" but it truly applies in this case. Thanks.

BTW,this articel is also very usefull.

http://www.eachbattery.com/guide/how-to-...

hewanyv557 - 15/12/14

Just did this repair on my wife's MacBook a little while ago, but I only cracked the case open enough to pull put the cable and clip the wires at the strain relief. Then I soldered the new cable to those cable ends, added the shrink tubing, and re-sealed the case with superglue. It looks and works like new! Much easier than going to the board. I also held the ears in place with scotch tape so they wouldn't move while closing it up.

John Lewis - 01/04/17

I just fixed an 85W MagSafe 2 power adapter using this guide, and it worked great! Like John, I cheated a little and just clipped the wires on the old cable, soldered and heatshrink-ed the new leads to them, and jammed the extra wire in the case. Getting to the solder pads on my adapter would have required disassembling the device much more, and this method worked perfectly.

Robert Bloom - 25/12/18

Great tutorial!, I'm planning to clean the shell up as good as I can and sand paper it a bit to get that glossy finish back ?

Oddvin Preinstad - 09/02/21

Wenn schon, empfiehlt sich das neue Kabel mit weissen Schrumpfschläuche am Magsafe Stecker und an der andere Seite zu verstärken.

michel.firholz -

Conclusion

Apply and repeat to all your friends victim of faulty cable ;-)

Author

Pierre Merineau

Member since: 10/02/10

3239 Reputation

48 comments

This guide was very helpful in figuring out what needed to be done and how to do it. I don't have access to a lead pump so I ended up removing the old wires and then soldering the new ones on top of the remaining solder. So far it's working just fine!

Wildlife Ecology - 28/04/14

I wasn't able to open my charger, even when using heat, the pliars as shown here and even a knife. As the damage to my cable was a few inches from the charger I just cut the cord and soldered a new one to the end. Cable looks a bit ratty but you could use white tubing to place over the top.

This guide is great and would definitely use it if possible =)

Ben Winkler - 19/06/14

Try using bench vise with needle-nose plier

ridwan - 19/07/17

You certainly need to knife thoroughly along the seam for it to open; after which you need to pry slowly with a pair of pliers by applying a considerable amount of force. Prudence is necessary when applying force because brute force will likely damage the casing; that means if you think adding more force will break the casing, it probably will. Knife it some more and then try again. Patience is *key*.

nawkwan - 02/01/20

I managed to open the casing without breaking it *but I did break my pliers in the process. lol

https://imgur.com/a/C73wvBr

nawkwan - 02/01/20

Thank you guys.. this guide was super helpful, without this I would have to spend 73 box unnecessarily.

Thanks again..

Lorenzo Cremisi - 10/07/14

My powersafe adapter(a1436) has broken cable and i want to repair it, do you know how many volts out if you connect the multimeter on the black and white cable? I get 9,77v is that correct?

Fotis Karoulias - 06/03/15

Great instructions. No solder pump either but so far it is working. $6.50 for parts instead of $40 for a new unit. Thanks very much!

Frederick D - 04/01/16

Great guide thanks, I bought my replacement lead on eBay for £5 and it's now working a treat.

One word of warning though, careful where you stick your fingers as I got a couple of zaps of electricity from something inside (yes it was unplugged :)

If you don't have a solder pump / solder sucker then I recommend you buy one before you start, it'd be tricky to clear out the holes on the board without one.

Andy B - 03/02/16

You can use desoldering wick instead of a solder sucker. Actually, I ended up using both, since I couldn’t get the sucker in close enough.

Martin Cooper - 28/01/21

I did this on an 85W adapter (official from apple, the one that came with the laptop) and the system is now reporting the connected charger as 60W. Any ideas on why this would be the case?

steve - 09/08/16

Because your magsafe replacement cable inner electronic ID is 60W.

Terrence Zhu - 03/03/18

Believe it or not, the MagSafe plug contains a chip that reports information about the adapter to your Mac. So the replacement cable needs to match the power supply you’re repairing. Unfortunately, a huge majority of eBay sellers selling replacement cables (which are coming from China) don’t appear to know this, and sell the cables as “45W/60W/85W” as if the cable can be used for any of them. You need to look for a seller that has different cables depending on the wattage of the supply you want to repair.

Martin Cooper - 28/01/21

My guess would be that even though you have an 85 w charger, your computer only needs and draws 60w. Hope this helps

Harry - 23/09/16

The electronic ID for the adapter is on a small circuit board inside the MagSafe connector, so it looks like the cable you bought emulates the 60w model.

Grangerham - 03/11/16

Very useful guide. My 85W's charger's lead was damaged near the charger. I opened it up following your guide. Accessing the back of the circuit board where the black lead is soldered on was tricky due to the copper shielding, so I cut the leads and soldered it them back together, with the join inside the unit. This lost me the cable strain relief but I improvised one with hot melt glue and Sugru! Not exactly looking like new, it works nicely - thanks!

Seb Wills - 10/12/16

Failure to connect is a common problem; i.e. no light on the connector, and partial or no charging. The magnetic surface of the connector may be damaged. To fix, take a snap off blade knife, & run the back of the blade across the mating surface of the connector, to remove any bumps. Had trouble with mine for months; just tried this now, worked immediately. ;-)

stuart21 - 13/01/17

Once I knew what to do, it was easy. I'd like, however, to add one additional hint: the housing splits open a little bit easier on the mains plug side, because the glued seam is shorter there.

R.D. Z. - 04/05/17

Great guide!!! I've now replaced two MagSafe cables without much of a problem. I bought the replacements on amazon.... no problems yet.

If you use regular needle nose pliers (or snap ring for that matter) tape the ends so that you don't damage the case. Also, start prying apart on the short end of the case as there is less adhesive. Two clamps are better than one when closing up the case. Good luck!

Voscillate - 04/05/17

great guide - thanks. I made a right mess of removing the soldered wire (I was fixing an 85w magsafe 2). I was using a pretty rubbish soldering iron, but amazingly it all works now! The hair dryer worked well, but amazing how much force was require and amazed I did not break it.

Steuart - 06/06/17

On ifixit, all I found or on the net in gereral, al I found is how to fix the adaptoer itself. But what about the plug? It is my second time, the wiring inside of the plug itself came lose. But I don't seem to be able to open the plug to fix the wire, any idea how to fix it? By plug I mean the small end of the adaptor where the orange or green led lites up on the Macbook Air

rich1812 - 25/06/17

Thank You. Your guide is very helpful and I can fix my adapter like a new one.

ridwan - 19/07/17

I just fixed my 45w charger from 2011 (Macbook Air) and it is not possible to get to the + wire in the charger. I ended up cutting the wire, and connecting the new one to it - and covering the solder with shrink-wrap.

Casper Pedersen - 05/08/17

I had a frayed cord, with the conducting metal wire completely detached from the rest of the conducting wire (below the insulating material). If that's the case for you, you can peal off the insulating layer from an old iPhone charger, remove the conducting wire and use it to join the two dead ends on the cord of your macbook charger. Apply some electrical tape on top of it and you now have a working charger!

btw, does anyone know what metal this wire is made of?

al 4515 - 19/08/17

Mine, was difficult to reassemble. I fix the original cable, cutting the damaged part and drilling a hole in the original cable grommet with a dremel rotary tool then passing through the cable and solder it to the board.

Juan Gonzalez - 21/08/17

Many thanks. Unfortunately, I think the cable shorted out the power supply before breaking in two. The fuse needed replacing but not a whimper after completing your excellent instructions.

Peter - 09/10/17

Magsafe repair is very simple.

https://youtu.be/AqReI-JNkpY

Overview Parcels - 27/02/18

Dude, Your “replacement cable 5 pins(magsafe)” shop link doesn’t work now, I find a useful purchase link. https://goo.gl/MxQT5S

Terrence Zhu - 03/03/18

Very very uselful guide!!!! thanks!!!!

I found that the ground (negative) connection on the pcb a bit tricky to desolder, since (I think) there’s a RATHER BIG grounding area right under the inner component area, there, that dissipates the soldering iron heat too much. I used an 100W soldering stick to have a short desoldering / resoldering time.

Also I found there’s a chocke coil, put there probably for interference suppression. I completely removed it since I found no interference at al with the macbook, nor other appliances around.

Mario Di Stefano - 27/04/18

Slightly different question.

I’d like to replace the Wall Plug on the long AC cord included with the Magsafe. The one I have is for UK outlets, but I’d like to remove and replace it with a “Schuko” type plug, which for me in Europe is more convenient. I don’t want to use those little plastic adapter kit things.

Is there anything I should be careful with here? Or is the wiring pretty straightforward? What about grounding?

Just asking basically if it would be a standard kind of electrical cord change, or if the Magsafe has anything particularly different about it.

Thanks.

Matt - 09/05/18

Matt, Apple sells replacement cables with whatever plug is used in your country (even though magsafe 2 adapters-in Europe- now come with an in-line plug rather than Schuko). Schuko cables are also pretty easy to find, used, online.

If you want to fix the cable yourself, you will find that the wall-outlet end of the cable is pretty straightforward: 3 different-color wires. The Schuko plug also has three cable receptacles, just be careful which wire is Ground.

Enrico - 19/06/18

Hello everyone,

I replaced the cable around two years ago and it worked fine until now. No more power coming out of the magsafe since last week.

So I opened it again and while testing if there was a parasite connection or something, I found out that the + and - of the “new” cable are somehow connected (resistance test with multimeter). So I unsoldered the white cable from the charger and there is still a connection somewhere between the white and black cable.

With my understanding of electronics, this seems highly problematic for the charger to work but maybe I am missing something.

Any idea?? Could be that the replacement cable is not working anymore (default contact somewhere)?

Thanks for your help

Nicolas

Nicolas deville - 30/06/18

I think replacement cables are not compatible with new firmware anymore.

I have replaced 3 x 45W MagSafe 2 and 4 x 85W MagSafe 2 cables from 2 different suppliers .

Green light comes and goes on for 5 minutes goes off and repeat.

Thanks

Kip - 09/02/19

Followed the guide, which is great, but it has not resulted in a repair. I’ve tested the pins at the end of the cable and I get a voltage of 30.1 mV. When I test at the soldered location, I get the same reading. Is this a problem with my soldering job or is something else on the board causing the issue?

Brandon - 23/01/19

Am a repair enthusiast myself. Magsafe chargers were the one thing i could not get to open and fix. Thanks to this guide, that’s no more the case. Replaced the wire on my 85W charger. Works perfectly.

Kunal Powar - 02/02/19

I could get the old solder removed, so I ended up using this guide in conjunction with steps 6 and 9-13 of How to Repair an Apple AC Adapter Broken Cable How to Repair an Apple AC Adapter Broken Cable and it worked out beautifully!

Sara Mulford - 17/07/19

Hey fellow repairers, i’m halfway through this guide and have the internal board in-front of me, there seems to be a brownish yellow ring around the positive terminal is that a sign of a short circuit according to you guys? Should i follow through or not?

Thanks for any advice in advance

Shahrukh shahzad - 17/08/19

Hey, this guide is very helpful for me to know more about this to visit us.https://uaetechnician.ae/laptop-repair-s...

Ricki Stevenson - 03/01/20

I’m pretty sure the case isn’t glued together, it’s ultrasonicly welded together! Meaning, the two outer parts of the plastic casing are melted and joined together into one piece. That is why it will never separate perfectly as one would want it to.

helliant1 - 22/12/20

No, it’s glued, or at least my 85W and 60W adapters are. The seam is tongue-and-groove, which makes it a bit trickier to separate. I used a heat gun, along with a lot of patience, and separated the halves along the seams without breaking any plastic.

Martin Cooper - 28/01/21

Impossible to find the cable for magsafe1 over the Internet.

Prigent - 05/02/21

I have a magsafe 1 charger in. two pieces - the box and 4” of cable and the tip. I have NOT OPENED THE BOX YET. I checked the cable on both sides of the cut. There is a center single wire surrounded by a silver braid, Now from what I’m seeing I’m missing some wires. What in the world could I be doing wrong ? AND The L connector ion the end is 4 pin, not five.

James Walker - 07/02/21

Very helpful. You helped me avoid causing damage to the power adapter. I was one my way to forcibly pry it open. After heating it up with the hair dryer, it was still rough to open it but it didn’t break. I should have waited before purchasing another adaptor. At least, now I have multiple ones which offers a good peace of mind. Kudos.

Abdoulaye Siby - 17/02/21

This guide was very helpful in figuring out what needed to be done!!!

Pateicos!!! :D

Aigars - 09/04/21

Hi,

I followed the steps described above, more-than-less, successfully, the only issue is that the charging led is now bright but with a very-very little trembling. Is this now considered to be safe to use, or does this mean that it will electrically damage the mac it connects to?

Thanks!

Dimitrios - 10/04/21

I think it is safe: maybe it is just an issue of the LED.

Daniele Carminati - 10/04/21

Amazon doesn’t carry the Magsafe 1 cable any more.

ebay -

Which is the positive and negative poles of black and white

Williams Jones -