iPad Pro 9.7" Screen Replacement

Written By: Arthur Shi

Comments: 40

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

1 - 3 hours

Introduction

Follow this guide to remove and replace the screen on the iPad Pro 9.7".

The home button assembly is paired to the iPad's logic board. In order to maintain Touch ID functionality, you must transfer your original home button to the new display assembly. This guide includes these steps.

Do not use metal prying tools, or you risk shorting and damaging the iPad.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

Covering the screen with tape proved an essential safety step with the ipad display/lcd I just replaced. The screen was so badly broken that a part of it was almost powder, but the combination of the tape and sticky adhesive residue kept most of that together, and cleanup was pretty easy as a result. One caveat, though, is that the tape will probably make the suction cup useless for pulling up on the display. It did for me, anyway.

John Lasseter - 22/05/21

Step 2

The following steps involve using an iOpener to soften the adhesive holding the front panel assembly in place. When using the iOpener, be sure to heat it in the microwave for no more than 30 seconds.
Handling it by the tabs on either end, place a heated iOpener over the top edge of the iPad.
Let the iOpener sit on the iPad for two minutes to soften the adhesive securing the front panel to the rest of the iPad.

I see a lot of videos that show using a heat gun on low to soften the adhesive. I know there is inherent risk with this since you could start delaminating things, but is it something that could be considered (at your own risk)? Or is it something that could have more risks than I am realizing?

joshcorey -

Yes, you can definitely use a hair dryer, heat gun, or a heating pad. If you're using a heat gun, be careful not to overheat the display. The surface should feel slightly too hot to the touch.

Arthur Shi -

Step 3

While the iPad looks uniform from the outside, there are delicate components under certain portions of the front glass. To avoid damage, only heat and pry in the areas described in each step.
As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
Home Button
Front Facing Camera
Main Camera

Verwirrend: Es sollte heissen, dass man an den beschriebenen Stellen eben NICHT hebeln sollte.

Felix - 04/04/21

Danke! Ich habe den Teil mit dem NICHT hebeln nochmal hervorgehoben.

Fabian Neidhardt - 07/04/21

The screen cable is on the right side at the bottom. Be super careful not to slice too deeply there

Gerald -

Step 4

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down two steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Elevate the iPad enough for the Anti-Clamp's arms to rest above and below the screen.
Pull the blue handle towards the hinge to disengage opening mode.
Position the suction cups near the top edge of the iPad—one on the front, and one on the back.
Push down on the cups to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your device is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use packing tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Push the blue handle away from the hinge to engage opening mode.
Turn the handle clockwise until you see the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned to each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.
Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next two steps.

Step 6

Place a suction cup over the iPad's front-facing camera and press down to create a seal.
To get the most leverage, place the suction cup as close to the edge as possible without going past the edge of the display.

Step 7

Firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the front panel and the rear case.
Do not pull too hard or you may shatter the glass.
Once you've opened a sufficient gap, insert an opening pick into the gap to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Step 8

Slide the pick along the edge of the display, towards the headphone jack.
If there is still a considerable amount of resistance when sliding the opening pick, repeat the iOpener heating procedure and apply additional heat.
Don't insert the pick past the bezel into the display area, or you will damage it.
A good rule of thumb is to never insert the opening pick more than a quarter inch into the iPad.

Step 9

Insert a second opening pick by the front-facing camera.

Step 10

Slide the second pick along the top edge of the iPad, towards the Sleep/Wake Button.

Step 11

Insert a third pick by the front-facing camera.

Step 12

Bring the right opening pick down and around the top right corner of the iPad.

Step 13

Bring the left opening pick around the top left corner of the tablet.

Step 14

Reheat the iOpener and lay it over the right edge of the display to loosen the adhesive underneath.

Step 15

Slide the right opening pick roughly halfway down the display.

Step 16

Reheat the iOpener and apply heat to the left side of the iPad.

Step 17

Slide the left-hand opening pick about halfway down the edge of the display.

Step 18

Slide the opposite opening pick down to the bottom right corner of the iPad.
If necessary, reheat the adhesive on the right edge to loosen the display assembly.

The screen cable is on the right side at the bottom. Be super careful not to slice too deeply there

Gerald -

Step 19

Slide the left-hand opening pick down the edge of the display until you reach the corner.

The screen cable is on the right side at the bottom. Be super careful not to slice too deeply there

Gerald -

Step 20

Use the iOpener to apply heat to the bottom edge of the iPad.

Step 21

Bring the right-hand opening pick around the bottom corner of the iPad.

Step 22

Repeat for the left-hand pick.
Reheat and reapply the iOpener as needed.

Step 23

Remove the right-hand opening pick at the bottom of the iPad.

Step 24

Slide the left-hand opening pick along the bottom edge of the display, then remove it from the bottom right corner of the iPad.
Be very careful to not insert the pick more than a quarter inch into the display to avoid damaging the Home Button and display cables underneath.

Step 25

Use picks to ensure most of the adhesive has been cut through on the top, left, and bottom sides.
Twist the top and bottom picks to separate the display assembly from the rear case.
Do not attempt to remove the display—it is still attached to the rear case.

Step 26

Swing the display assembly towards the right of the case, using the right edge as a hinge.
As you move the display assembly, make sure that the display ribbon cable is not being stressed.
Continue swinging the display assembly until it lays flat next to the rear case.

Step 27

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the eleven 1.3 mm screws securing the EMI shield.

Step 28

Apply a heated iOpener to the EMI shield on the logic board for one minute.

Step 29

Lift the logic board EMI shield, starting at the edge nearest the top of the iPad.
Slowly peel the EMI shield up from the logic board.
This takes a bit of force due to the many tiny clips securing the shield, and the shield may deform slightly. That's okay—try to keep the deformation to a minimum, and it will lay flat when reinstalled and screwed down.
Remove the logic board EMI shield.

Don't peel the cover as shown from a short side. Lift the long side to avoid creasing the cover so much. This way it will lie flat when you reassemble it and not look so ugly. Also, you won't have to straighten so many creases with pliers

Jim Meyers -

Step 30

Use a Phillips driver to remove the 1.7 mm-long screw securing the battery connector.

What size is this screw?

Austin Martin - 24/12/20

i get 1.65mm with my calipers but the 1.3s read 1.25 on my calipers too, so probably a 1.7mm

bunjamins - 13/05/21

Step 31

If the EMI shield has any sharp protrusions after removal, you should flatten them before reinstalling the shield.
Squeeze the sharp protrusion with a pair of pliers to flatten it.
Repeat the process for all sharp protrusions along the edges of the EMI shield.

Don't peel the cover as shown from a short side. Lift the long side to avoid creasing the cover so much. This way it will lie flat when you reassemble it and not look so ugly.

Jim Meyers -

Step 32

These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.
Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

Le connecteur de batterie est il réparable si abîmé ?

Maverick -

Step 33

Be careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily bent or broken, resulting in irreversible damage.
Ensure that the iFixit logo on the battery blocker is facing up.
Slide the battery blocker underneath the left side of the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
The battery blocker's right prong should slide between the left side of the logic board's battery connector and the battery's contact pads. The left prong should slide under the logic board.
Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector or logic board with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, refer to the next step for information on loosening the logic board. You can also try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.
The battery blocker or playing card should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, they should rest at a 15 degree angle.
Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

le connecteur de la batterie est t’il remplaçable ou repérable si jamais abîmé ?

Maverick -

Step 34

If the battery blocker doesn't easily slide under the logic board, follow these steps to partially loosen the logic board from the frame:
Apply a few drops of high-concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the logic board to the left and right of the battery connection.
Wait one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive under the logic board.
Try to insert the battery blocker. If the logic board doesn't easily lift up, apply a few more drops of isopropyl alcohol.
This doesn't apply when using the playing card method to disconnect the battery because the playing card is only inserted between the battery connector and the battery contact pads.

Step 35

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips screws securing the display cable bracket.

i think we need to talk about the battery situation here. apple change up the style of battery connector on this model as well as some others. if someone can add to this list and add the appropriate photos in the right spot should help someone else. the battery tabs are open towards the battery side and inserting a tool in this area can pry them open further and damage or rip off the tab. some have found that by lifting on either side of the battery tab, they would not even encounter the tabs.

greg - 14/07/20

Step 36

Remove the display cable bracket.

A tab was folded over a connector of some sort on the bottom side. I found it was a better to pull from the top to the bottom to fold the tabs slightly to remove this cover.

rosecitymech - 09/12/19

Actually it helps to move the cover slightly towards the bottom of the iPad as that disengages to tabs…

DeeAnn Hopings - 06/06/21

Step 37

Use the flat end of the spudger to disconnect the display assembly connector from the motherboard socket.

Step 38

Repeat the previous step for the two remaining connectors.

Step 39

Remove the display assembly from the frame.
If you are reusing the original display assembly, follow this display adhesive application guide to apply replacement display adhesive during reassembly.

Step 40

Use tweezers to remove the tape covering the ZIF connector above the home button.

Step 41

Use the point of a spudger to lift the flap on the ZIF connector that secures the cable.

Step 42

Use tweezers to slide the cable out of the ZIF connector.

Step 43

The home button's ribbon cable is very fragile. If it gets damaged, Touch ID will no longer function.
Use an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer to soften the adhesive under the cable before you pry it up.
Alternatively, apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to the cable and wait for a minute to let the adhesive soften.

I used a heat gun on low air, set to 150°C, and very very gentle pressure with the tweezers, and it came out very easily and neatly.

trevorsklar -

Step 44

Starting from the ZIF connector, use an opening pick to separate the home button cable from the adhesive holding it in place. Stop when you reach the home button.

Step 45

The home button bracket is held in place with strong adhesive.
Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to the base of the home button bracket.
Alternatively, you can use a heated iOpener to loosen the adhesive.

Step 46

Insert the edge of an opening tool under the home button bracket lip.
Pry up with steady force to loosen the bracket.
The adhesive holding this bracket can be stubborn. Apply more isopropyl alcohol or heat if it doesn't budge.

Step 47

Remove the home button bracket.
Be careful when you remove the home button bracket. There may be a small plastic washer wedged between the bracket and the button. If there is, be sure to retain this washer for reinstallation.
During reassembly, after installing the home button, you'll need to glue this bracket into place to secure it.
Scrape off as much of the old adhesive residue as you can, then clean it with acetone or high concentration (>90%) isopropyl alcohol.
Secure the bracket with E6000 glue, superglue, or high-strength double-sided tape. Make sure the bracket is aligned correctly before allowing your adhesive to cure, or the home button will not click when pressed.

Would be really nice if the adhesive strip kit for the screen included the adhesive bits needed to secure the existing home button to the new screen (or a new home button to an existing screen).

Marc Nelson - 28/08/19

One more thing about the bracket: you really need a strong adhesive when you put it back, so that pushing the button doesn’t dislodge it. If it doesn’t hold the button firmly, you can push the button out of its socket during normal use. Getting the bracket in and aligning it without accidentally sticking it in the wrong place or (much worse) sticking it to the fragile ribbon cable takes some very careful work.

This is an excellent guide, but I’d like to see maybe the first two steps of reassembly, showing how to do this correctly.

John Lasseter - 22/05/21

When replacing the bracket, a very slight difference in the replacement part caused the bracket to make the home button click all the time. The little white washer between the home button and the back of the glass was about 0.3 mm thicker than the original, and i had already superglued those parts together.

Fortunately, the playing card included in the kit is about 0.3 mm thick. I cut 2 small rectangles and superglued them to the feet of the bracket, so it would stand away from the home button. Then superglued the bracket on, and now it clicks perfectly. Hopefully I don't have any issues with the playing card delaminating as the home button wears, because I definitely don't know if i could get this ipad apart again (the first time was easier because the screen was already shattered).

trevorsklar -

Step 48

Gently push the home button from the front of the display inward using the tip of a finger.

The gasket tears easily, so go slower than I did. I should have heated the button up so to help the gasket release.

jpmist -

Step 49

Remove the home button.
The home button attaches to the screen with an adhesive gasket. When you transfer the home button to a new display, use some liquid adhesive to glue the button perimeter to the screen.

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components (such as the camera bezel) or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order. Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our iPad Pro 9.7” Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Arthur Shi

Member since: 03/01/18

225807 Reputation

18 comments

How would you re-attach that EMI shield after it has been peeled off?

Garrett Coyle - 26/06/18

Hi Garrett,

Try to straighten it as much as possible and remove any jagged edges around the edges. The screws will hold the shield in place.

Arthur Shi - 26/06/18

I have a broken glass cover on the LCD screen on my iPad pro 9.7, is it possible to just replace the glass?

Esko Ala-Nisula - 01/07/18

It is possible, although extremely difficult. You will need to remove the lcd/digitizer without doing any damage to the lcd. Then you need to separate the lcd from the cracked digitizer, clean the lcd, and then glue the lcd to the new digitizer. The fact that your asking this leads me to believe that you don’t have the many expensive machines and supplies to complete this correctly. I would just replace the lcd, as there is a fair chance you will damage it doing this removal anyways - depending on your skill level.

Hope this helps!

Steve Noah - 06/07/18

Doing a screen replacement, I followed the instructions but, it won’t come back on no picture and I don’t think its the back light because i shined a light on it and I can’t see anything. It will charge but no picture, tried the original broken screen and two others. Any Ideas?

Zachary Swagger - 02/10/18

Great writeup, clear instructions! I just finished replacing my display assembly on my iPad Pro 9.7. My glass was badly shattered and all separated when pulling with the suction cup, even though I taped it. So my screen came off in pieces and I had to separate the rest of the screen pieces from the glue along the edge with a tweezers and spudger.

After installing new display, everything works except the touch ID sensor. The new display works, the home button works as a button, just not the finger print part… The screen was very broken up with small pieces of glass all around the home button, but it did work before with the broken screen. I super glued the bracket that holds the home button in place as well, so it might be a pain to seperate again. Does someone make a replacement touch ID sensor? Or just not worth it and use the iPad as is without Touch ID? The iPad actually pops up an error on screen “unable to activate touchID on this iPad”

Worth fixing? Or just use it as is?

paulschmid07 - 16/11/18

Congratulations on the successful repair! As noted in the introduction, the Touch ID functionality will only work with your original button, due to security reasons. It should work if you transfer it over from your old panel. If your original home button was broken, there is no DIY way to replace it to restore Touch ID functionality. You may be able to replace it through Apple, but it would be pricy.

Whether or not you want to use it without Touch ID definitely depends on personal preference and usage scenario. I would suggest giving it a week to see if you get used to it or not.

Arthur Shi - 16/11/18

Where is the part with the glass screen replacement? Connecting the new screen and putting in the new home button?

ambreen1969 - 15/08/19

We are currently out of stock for the replacement. To connect the new screen and home button, carefully follow the instructions in reverse.

Arthur Shi - 15/08/19

Great repair guide. One thing though, if you have broken glass, even with taping the screen, the suction cups have a very difficult time keeping contact. This will extend the repair time. If you take your time and be very careful, you can make it happen. Also make sure to be extra careful with the display cables when reassembling. Its a real bummer to get all the way to the end and see that you damaged the cables trying to close it up.

Michael Stein - 26/08/19

My screen is chipping when i slide the pick into the screen. So when I go through the next time, It can’t go all the way through the screen. What do I do from there?

MoltenHydrogen - 19/02/20

I’m not sure I fully understand your question. Are you trying to preserve the screen to be reused, or are you having trouble removing a chipped screen?

Arthur Shi - 19/02/20

Will True Tone working with replaced display?

Radam Husein - 20/04/20

Al reemplazar la batería y proceder a cargarla con electricidad, la batería no ha excedido el 50%. ¿Qué hice mal y cómo puedo solucionarlo?

Alfredo Córdoba - 01/08/20

Bueno encontré un documento que decía que primero hay que descargar la batería

Alfredo Córdoba - 27/08/20

Perhaps a few too many steps on how to get the glass off, and not enough emphasis on what’s really difficult here, installing the old home button in the replacement screen. The big problem is that the home button is held in place by a bracket that must be very, very precisely aligned with the button underneath, or else the button won’t click. And even if the bracket and button are aligned, it’s nearly impossible to get the bracket to be at the right distance from the button. Too far, and it won’t click. Too close and it won’t click. The replacement kit does not come with the glue for this (in fact, my kit came without the promised glue strips at all, they had been forgotten, but iFixit quickly got them to me). I used the recommended two-side tape from iFixit, but that is really a kludge approach. I spent about 80% of my time on this project on the home button.

Conrad H Blickenstorfer - 20/08/20

I had said It's fine as far as it goes. Thats not true. It's full of omissions, the most glaring of which is that if you block the battery as the author suggests, you run a very high risk of damaging the battery connector. If you're worried about losing data then back up your device. Otherwise, follow the instructions and be prepared to have to take out the logic board and replace the battery connector after you find that your renewed ipad won't charge its battery. Other things never mentioned are the camera bezel, which may stick to your old glass as mine did, and end up in the trash. And there is a little plastic washer that sits under the home button which will probably have to be rescued as well. All in all, you'd do better to find another instruction video. This one is pathetic.

phil -

Hi Phil,

I'm really sorry to hear of your experience. It's pretty terrible to get to the end of the repair, only to find that it didn't work. I'll take your comments into consideration and look into improving this guide more.

Arthur Shi -