iPhone 7 Logic Board Replacement

Written By: Evan Noronha

Comments: 158

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

45 minutes - 3 hours

Introduction

Use this guide to remove or replace a faulty logic board in your iPhone 7.

It's important to note that each iPhone's logic board and Touch ID fingerprint sensor are paired at the factory, so replacing the logic board will disable Touch ID unless you also install a replacement home button that has been properly paired to your new logic board.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

Cooper Chase - 06/10/16

Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

rcheing - 17/08/18

Can’t get the display front

Bernadette Pfeifer - 06/11/19

From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

ballina5ny - 05/02/20

I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

Mark Lieberman - 13/03/20

in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

Jan-Tijn Oppermann - 10/07/20

3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.

Ahmad Vaziri -

the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

Martin Frutos, Nuñez - 25/06/20

The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

Bram Driesen - 31/01/21

Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

Jon Moylan - 04/12/20

If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

Ryan Huebert - 06/01/21

Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

Cynthia Lamb - 01/03/21

I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

Richard - 12/05/21

Do the screws come out in total?

YVES THEUGELS - 28/05/21

Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

YVES THEUGELS - 28/05/21

I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

Anthony Scaminaci -

At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

Klaus Preiss -

I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.

I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.

Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

Klaus Preiss -

Step 2

If inserted too far, an opening pick can damage your device. Follow this step to mark your pick and prevent damage.
Measure 3 mm from the tip and mark the opening pick with a permanent marker.
You can also mark the other corners of the pick with different measurements.
Alternatively, tape a coin to a pick 3 mm from the tip.

Step 3

If your iPhone has a cracked screen, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping over the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's screen until the whole face is covered.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.
If you can't get the suction cup to stick in the next few steps, fold a strong piece of tape (such as duct tape) into a handle and lift the screen with that instead.
If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the screen.

Step 4

The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

Step 5

Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

Step 6

Heat an iOpener and thread it through the arms of the Anti-Clamp.
You can also use a hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate—but extreme heat can damage the display and/or internal battery, so proceed with care.
Fold the iOpener so it lays on the bottom edge of the iPhone.
Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Step 7

The next three steps show how to separate the screen using a suction cup.
Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.
Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the phone for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

Step 8

Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.
Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

Step 9

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the screen and the frame.
Insert an opening pick into the gap.
The watertight adhesive holding the screen in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, apply more heat, and gently rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you create enough of a gap to insert your tool.

Step 10

Slide the opening pick up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
Stop near the top left corner of the display.
Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

Step 11

There are delicate cables along the right edge of your iPhone. Don't insert your pick here, as you may damage the cables.

Step 12

Re-insert your tool at the lower right corner of the iPhone, and slide it around the corner and up the right side of the phone to separate the adhesive.
Don't insert your pick more than 3 mm, as you may damage the display cables.

Step 13

Gently pull up on the suction cup to lift up the bottom edge of the display.
Do not raise the display more than 15º or you'll risk straining or tearing the ribbon cables connecting the display.
Pull on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

Step 14

Slide an opening pick underneath the display around the top left corner and along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

Step 15

Slide the display assembly slightly down (away from the top edge of the phone) to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

Step 16

Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.
Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
Lean the display against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

Step 17

Remove four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower connector bracket, of the following lengths:
Three 1.2 mm screws
One 2.4 mm screw
Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your iPhone.

Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

Steve - 09/05/17

These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

Jeff Hurst - 14/07/17

The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

dbright - 02/10/17

What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

Nasser Nader - 10/02/18

i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

joscarlos91 - 16/02/18

What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

Jacob Ramos - 05/04/18

Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

Stephen Babbage - 05/12/18

It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

Jim Staples - 12/02/19

Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

Magne Eivindson - 15/03/19

For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

Erik Fredriksen - 06/04/19

What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

Adam Corral - 06/04/19

Can’t get them removed what to do ?

cowling_luke - 23/05/19

Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

jimpoolio - 28/05/19

You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

Kyle Webb - 04/06/19

The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

Harmony - 08/09/19

Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

Chris Bennett - 01/10/19

If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

jvalaamo - 13/10/19

Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

Gina Torres - 15/11/19

I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

Ray Bieze - 18/11/19

I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small. use a magnetised screwdriver, or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

scallyteacher - 05/01/20

Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

mark golling - 02/02/20

I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

qwerty77x - 02/07/20

Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

Galen Wollenberg - 01/09/20

The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

Mark - 14/09/20

To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws. This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

Darren Thibodaux - 20/01/21

try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.

David Howard -

A small tapered triangle file using moderate pressure did the trick for me.

Jack -

Step 18

Remove the lower connector bracket.

my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

Josh Martin - 04/01/18

This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

Oscar Moreno - 06/10/18

So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

Ian Fritz - 31/07/20

Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

Ian Fritz - 31/07/20

I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.

Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.

Yishai Sered -

Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

Cynthia Lamb - 01/03/21

Step 19

Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.
Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

Julian Eltrich - 20/09/19

Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

jason - 18/06/20

In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

Dave Miller - 18/10/20

Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

Tomoharu Eguchi - 30/12/20

VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.

It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....

Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.

PJM -

Step 20

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.
Use a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.
To reconnect these cables, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the opposite end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
If you have a blank screen, white lines on the display, or partial or complete lack of touch response after reassembling your phone, try disconnecting and carefully reconnecting both of these cables and make sure they are fully seated.

To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement

minimalist - 29/09/19

MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

Arjun Nagarajan - 19/02/20

Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

garrett peek - 26/07/20

An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

Mark - 14/09/20

Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

Chan Ty - 19/10/20

I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

2) Where can I get the replacement?

Ben Blom - 23/11/20

Same happened to me. What solution did you find? Could you replace a part to make it work? Thank you!

Viktoria -

I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

Thanks for advice!

Bjorn - 27/12/20

this point is the most important in the whole manual.

Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - 31/12/20

I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

Stuart - 04/01/21

Echo minimalist’s comment here. Prop the display up and skip to step 19 to save time and remove risk.

.A. -

If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..

It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.

David Howard -

I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement

chrislacey -

I removed the screen and cable still got ripped during reassembling :(

Viktoria -

There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.

When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.

Gavin Stokes -

I’m only reading your very useful comment now, after the exact thing happened to me and my cable got ripped during reassembling phone. Would you be able helping me naming this part, so I can look for a new one? Thank you very much!

Viktoria -

Can somebody help me with the name of the part that these cables belong to? The bottom one got ripped during my battery replacement, I need a new one but unsure what to look for.

Viktoria -

Step 21

Remove the two 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector.
Some phones could be Y000. Apple started using Y000 for these at some point in the middle of the product's lifecycle.

Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

Makana Sylva - 15/01/18

If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

Vegeta Barrett - 21/09/20

The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

s h - 25/01/18

I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

Peter Pearson - 29/01/18

I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

Therese Peffer - 05/09/18

Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

Sierra Scolaro - 26/10/18

^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

Jeff Suovanen - 25/01/19

the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

Alexis Marie Colon - 11/01/19

The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

Ryan Welborn - 25/01/19

Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

Jeff Suovanen - 25/01/19

I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

rcarswell - 30/05/19

Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

efazio588 - 11/09/19

PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

minimalist - 29/09/19

I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

Ray Bieze - 18/11/19

i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

mason - 12/01/20

the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

patricia loving - 19/05/20

You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

jack jones - 30/05/20

Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

Nicole Crome - 10/06/20

What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

Alex Vu - 19/06/20

I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

Martin Frutos, Nuñez - 25/06/20

I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

Takumi Arai - 24/02/21

The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…

That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!

and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well

PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!

Cam F -

Step 22

Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.
This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

Detlef Menninger - 27/02/19

Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

Victor Bui - 11/08/19

@victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 12/08/19

This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

Roy Mathew -

After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

Ed Scannell -

The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

John Daily -

The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

Sarah Valencia -

Step 23

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

Guy Cooley - 09/08/18

Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

Victor Bui - 08/08/19

@victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

Jeff Suovanen - 09/08/19

This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

trent bost - 15/09/19

@trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

Jeff Suovanen - 16/09/19

Step 24

Insert a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip into the small hole in the SIM card tray.
Press to eject the tray.
This may require a significant amount of force. However, ensure the eject tool is properly aligned beforehand as to not damage the eject mechanism inside the phone.
Remove the SIM card tray assembly from the iPhone.
When reinserting the SIM card, ensure that it is in the proper orientation relative to the tray.

Received a sim card tray from IFIXIT for my iphone 7. I can’t seem to get it to close flush no matter how hard I try. Any suggestions?

AJ Dereume - 24/06/19

Why would it require a significant amount of force? Is it because the iPhone 7 is water resistant? When I removed my tray it was like it was stuck in goop inside the phone and the tray had a glue like sticky substance on it? It did not ‘click’ back in smoothly like my other iPhones, I had to push it against the ‘goop’. Is this normal for iPhone 7??

Rebecca Diakun - 24/07/20

I used the tip of the super pointy tweezers, and it worked well.

Cynthia Lamb - 01/03/21

Step 25

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear-facing camera connector.

Step 26

Remove the following Phillips screws securing the rear camera bracket to the rear case:
One 1.3 mm screw
One 2.5 mm screw

I couldn’t get my 1.3mm screw out. It’s not required thankfully as you can just bend the cover up and out of the way to complete the rest of the steps.

Ray Bieze - 18/11/19

i removed them with PH000

Flavien - 30/01/21

Step 27

Remove the bracket.

Step 28

Use the pointed end of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the antenna bus connector, just left of the rear camera module.

There is one Step missing before removing the flash light cable: Remove Camera cable, right?

Achim Breidenbach - 13/02/20

I broke this and can’t find it on amazon. Is it part of the volume control flash connector? If not, can you send me a link on where to find this connector,…and possible instructions on how to replace?

Daniel Buhler - 20/09/20

Step 29

Remove the two 1.2 mm tri-point screws securing the upper cable bracket.

these are too tight cant get rid off them from y000

Narendra Mane - 01/07/20

ok with Y000 from pro tool kit

Flavien - 30/01/21

Had to push down to get the Y000 in place

Cynthia Lamb - 01/03/21

Step 30

Remove the upper cable bracket.

Step 31

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the upper cable connector.

Este cable q funciona tiene porfavor lo desconecte y funciona normal

Johnny Bolaños - 02/05/20

Step 32

Remove the four Phillips screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna:
Three 1.2 mm screws
One 1.7 mm screw

I lost one of these 1.2 mm screws. Will that affect the signal reception?

Bethany Knaebel - 12/08/19

There is another screw connecting the antenna to the case.

tbaiello - 21/11/19

How do you open the 1.7mm screw? LOL

Kyle Victor - 29/12/19

The screws are not threading in for some reason. I measured the screws to be exactly 1.2mm with a caliper.

Loopy75 - 06/01/20

Yes there are 4 x screw 3 x 1.2mm and 1x 1.7mm securing the antenna to the case

ANDREW - 29/01/20

Yes : 4 screws and not 3 !!

sirthomasnardin - 22/01/21

Step 33

Remove the top left antenna.

** also remove the small Phillips screw fastening the WiFi antenna to the top rear casing of the phone

iBroke - 05/12/18

Step 34

Remove the following Phillips screws:
One 1.3 mm screw
One 2.2 mm screw

Step 35

Remove the bracket.

What's this bracket called

Cris Velasquez - 10/09/18

%#*@, lost that part during the job, thought it’d be alright without it. Couple days later figured out NFC doesn’t work anymore. Any ideas on where to get this part from, colleagues?

azowux - 14/11/18

Step 36

Remove the 2.2 mm standoff screw from the grounding bracket.
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff screwdriver or bit.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

What bit is this? The link doesn’t use the same name.

Mike Moran - 23/10/18

I didn’t even have an eyeglass repair kit flathead, so I hit the end of a paperclip with a hammer to make a flathead, and it works!

Ark - 27/12/18

I hate getting the deep into a repair to find there’s a tool missing. This bit should be part of the toolkit!

Ark - 27/12/18

Its in the toolkit now. Looks like a Philips head but up close the end is squared off with a point in the middle.

Jesse de Vries - 22/05/20

I received two boxes - one box contained the repair part, the other was the tool kit. I only opened the tool kit before disassembling the phone. The standoff screwdriver bit was not in there. Neither was the guitar pick. I used a real guitar pick and a small standard screwdriver from my toolbox. When I was ready to reassemble, I opened the repair part box and guess what was in there - the standoff screwdriver bit and guitar pick. So, I guess if you just order the part it will come with (at least) those two tools. The tool kit contains tweezers, suction cup, three screwdriver bits (tri-point, pentalobe, and phillips) and screwdriver handle, a long black spudger with a flat end and a pointy end, and a smaller, thicker spudger with a wide, flat ends.

bronyaur - 19/05/19

The flat end of the spudger works a treat too.

Robert Trammel - 02/09/19

Thank you, bronyar. Since there is a box labeled “Repair Tools”, I never would have looked in the parts box for tools. I was able to use the standoff tool to takie the phone apart, not just to put it back together.

Mike Ruzicka - 21/06/20

I used standoff bit for iPhone from my pro tool kit

Flavien - 30/01/21

Step 37

Use tweezers to gently bend the logic board grounding bracket out of the way.

I accidentally broke the grounding bracket, is it very important to get a new one to replace? as I can't seem to find them for sale anywhere

Mustifa shah - 22/01/20

I also broke it. Did your phone work after?

Did you find a replacement?

Ben Schorr - 21/02/20

Did your phone work ?

Emin - 21/05/21

also broken does it work without?

Emin - 21/05/21

I broke mine while doing this step. A bit confusing. You’re just supposed to bend it out the way, not pull on it entirely. Will the phone still work without this?

Chandler Forrest -

$@$*, i broke the grounding bracket

Z1xus -

I just didnt bend this one.. Ill tell you how it went

Lauren Campbell -

Step 38

Use the point of a spudger to lift the two antenna cable connectors up off of the sockets on the logic board.

Step 39

Use tweezers to gently derout the antenna cables from the metal bracket on the logic board.

Step 40

Use the point of a spudger to disconnect the lower cable connector.

Wat voor kabel is dit? Deze is beschadigd bij mijn IPhone 8 Plus

Maarten - 08/01/21

Step 41

Remove the following screws:
One 1.4 mm Phillips screw
Three 2.2 mm standoff screws
Standoff screws are best removed using a standoff driver.
In a pinch, a small flathead screwdriver will do the job—but use extra caution to ensure it doesn't slip and damage surrounding components.

Link may be missing or broken!

Standoff screws are best removed using an [linked product missing or disabled: IF145-343-1] and driver handle.

Phrase Neither - 04/08/21

Step 42

Use the point of a spudger to move the SIM card eject plunger out of the logic board's way.

Step 43

Use the flat end of a spudger to gently lift the battery connector end of the logic board up.
Make sure you're not pulling against any cables. If you feel resistance, check all cables, connectors, and components are clear of the board.

Step 44

Lift the battery connector end of the logic board and pull it up and out of the rear case.
Be careful not to snag the logic board on any cables.

Très bien pour ces étapes

Théophile Bita -

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Evan Noronha

Member since: 06/02/15

220127 Reputation

13 comments

I had an accident where my iphone has got some damage (cracked screen, metal frame slightly bent).. I can see a lot of iCloud locked devices for sale, some of them for a cheap price. Would replacing the logic board and home button give me a non-damaged working phone? Or what parts would need to be moved for this? Sure I can buy a brand new phone but I like a bit of a challenge :)

Steve - 13/09/17

the logic board holds the OS, so yes if you were to replace the mother board of the iPhone it should work like a new phone but without touch id

Vegas Uprising - 25/11/17

I have the same idea and i found to buy this one

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/For-iPho...

You think it will work?

alexandros papadopoulos - 15/09/18

Hi,

I’ve got a problem with my iphone7. I just took some videos under the water using my iphone. But later it’s finger id has gone and it’s fully damaged. Now the phone is not working. Is there any option to repair this ….?

muhammed faisal - 14/01/18

Hi Muhammed, sounds like some water got inside your phone. Check out our iPhone liquid damage guide for some basic troubleshooting you can do on your own. When you have the phone open check connectors and pins on the board for any corrosion. If the damage is serious enough that cleaning won’t fix it, you can take your phone to a local repair shop for more extensive repairs.

Adam O'Camb - 15/01/18

Will the board in my iPhone 6 work in an iPhone 7 I have?

Neal Payne - 17/08/18

Hello people my i phone 7 working only with headset. How can i solved? or what can i do?.

when i calling, on the screen not appears the speaker logo. Can you me help please.

Avedis

avi avi - 08/02/21

Hi. I want to buy a new logic board for iPhone 7 plus without touch id. I already have the home button with my screen attached. My question is if that home button works? I don’t need touch id i just want that the home button physically works. Does it work.

Faizan TAhir - 13/12/18

Nope, sorry—a non-paired button won’t work at all last time I checked. It worked until the 6s, but iPhone 7 and later have a solid-state “button” that gets disabled completely.

Jeff Suovanen - 14/12/18

Ottima guida molto chiara, ho sostituito la sceda madre ad un iphone 7 senza alcuna difficoltà.

labruzzopaolo - 10/09/19

I have recently lost all service in my iPhone 7. In the top left corner of my screen it says ‘No service’ and I cannot use 4G, receive or send messages and call others. My WIFI and Bluetooth work perfectly fine so does this mean that if I replace my logic board it will fix ‘No service’ issue ?

Adrian Cacaj - 31/12/20

I have an iPhone7 A1778 purchased in Canada.

If the only logic boards available (above) are the AT&T and T-Mobile, which should I choose or does it not matter?

Alex Campbell -

Hello .

There are 4 strews on motherboard but one of them are a little bit taller . with hole it fit that taller screw , and it have an importance ?

Ive replace my motherboard with other but after it keep restarting , it apear the apple for few seconds then it restart again and it keep doing this action . Any tips for solvind that problem ?

muthafackaa -