Installazione doppio drive nell'iMac Intel EMC 2267 da 24"

Scritto Da: Brittany McCrigler
  • Commenti: 78
Installazione doppio drive nell'iMac Intel EMC 2267 da 24"

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

28

Tempo Necessario

Nessuna stima

Introduzione

L'aggiunta di un secondo drive nell'iMac offre diversi vantaggi, fra cui velocità più elevate, maggiore spazio di archiviazione e la possibilità di installare nuovi software senza problemi. Usae questa guida per eseguire l'installazione mediante un case per disco rigido nell'alloggiamento ottico.

  1. eZ2mmfZFNXICRO5o

    • Poggiare l'iMac sul lato anteriore su un tavolo, con il bordo inferiore rivolto verso l'utente.

    • Allentare la vite con testa a croce al centro dello sportello di accesso.

    • La vite resta all'interno dello sportello di accesso.

    • Rimuovere lo sportello di accesso dall'iMac.

    The grid won't fall off by itself. You'll have to help it. Use the smallest screwdriver you have; the Torx 6 worked fine for me. It should enter in one of the many holes composing the grid. Use it as a lever to ploy the grid a little bit. You may catch it with your fingers and that's it.

    Be carefull not to damage the hole by a too strong leverage.

    Laurent -

    much more safer to use duct tape, instead of torx 6. (glue it along the length of the grid and pull). it will loose instantly and smooth;)

    Hofmann78rus -

    Anyone know a guide to replace the plastic piece this screw connects to? I accidentally forgot this step - went to remove the front bezel and bent the plastic piece the access door connects to.

    Jason Augustin -

  2. p6KIDV5hIdqMQvBL
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    • Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.

    • Far aderire due ventose agli angoli opposti del pannello di vetro.

    • Per far aderire le nostre ventose, per prima cosa posizionarle con la maniglia semovente parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro. Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, sollevare la maniglia semovente finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia.

    • Se la ventosa non aderisce, provare a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato.

    A good alternative to the two heavy duty suction cups is a regular household plunger.

    Russell Knight -

    Also, 2" wide packing tape. Maybe a 6 or 8" piece, folded in the middle to give you say, a 1-2" "handle". Make a pair of these. They look like a capital T but with a short vertical part (the handle), and a wide top I the sticky wings). Get the good 3M tape, it's strong, and it peels off clean without leaving any glue from the screen.

    Barry Coyle -

    for me one household plunger did the trick!

    Ronald Huygen -

  3. 3RAYpU3kCCqrGrBr

    • Estrai delicatamente il pannello di vetro dall'iMac.

    • Il pannello di vetro presenta diversi piedini di posizionamento lungo il perimetro. Per evitare di staccare i piedini dal pannello di vetro, fare attenzione a rimuoverlo solo tirando verso l'alto.

    • Pulire con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e l'LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'accensione del display.

    • Quando sostituisci il vetro, assicurati che non ci sia nulla tra il vetro stesso e il suo supporto. Eventuali cavi volanti potrebbero danneggiarsi o rompere il pannello.

    Another approach that worked for us was to get 4 small plastic wedges (the kind used in iphone screen replacements). Working one corner at a time you can use a cheap suction cup to pry just that corner up enough to slide the wedge in. Then proceed to the next then next, etc. Once all 4 have the wedges under them the glass should be away from the body all the way around, then just carefully lift it the rest of the way up.

    A___K -

  4. aY5eEd5cGTLMJxqX

    • Rimuovere le 12 viti seguenti, che fissano la mascherina anteriore al case posteriore:

    • Otto viti Torx T8 da 13 mm.

    • Quattro viti Torx T8 da 25 mm.

    • Nell'iMac Intel modello A1225 da 24", le due viti nella parte inferiore centrale sono lunghe (26 mm), le quattro ai lati (due a sinistra, due a destra) sono medie (18 mm) e le restanti 6 (quattro nella parte superiore e due negli angoli inferiori) sono corte (14 mm).

    I would strongly suggest taping the screws down on a piece of paper towel or cloth in the same order you take them out, as there are different lengths in no particular order and they don't all fit into just any hole. Unless you keep track of which hole each screw belongs, there is no other way of knowing. I stress taping because I didn't tape mine down and after bumping the table I was working on they scattered, leaving me to guess.

    Len -

    Even better, use an ice cube tray to keep the screws from each step together.

    maccentric -

    how about using the magnets near the screws to keep their positions?

    Andy -

    I use an 18 count egg carton (or two) and label each egg slot with a Sharpie. Works great.

    airira -

    As a rule with iFixit repairs, for years I've been printing the guides, applying scotch magic tape near each picture (which allows me to reutilise the paper prints in the future), neatly putting the appropriate screw next to their picture and taping them down with scotch magic tape.

    Even if I have to wait for spare parts, this allows me to neatly file the guide + screws in a copy safe and a binder (or in a cardboard filing box together with the rest of the parts) for later reassembly. Hardly any mistake possible...

    Bart Van Dessel -

    I think the caption on the picture is wrong here for 24" iMacs - it says: "On the 24" iMac Intel Model A1225, the bottom center two screws are long (26mm), four on sides (two left, two right) are medium (18mm), and the remaining 6 (four top, two bottom corners) are short (14mm)." I think actually bottom centre two are long, then all the rest are medium apart from the two either side of the CD/DVD drive

    HBloomfield -

    I print out the steps. Get a roll of scotch tape ready. Every screw, or set of screws I remove, I lay on some tape, and then tape them to the number on the directions. Then you have each screw labeled, with direction, and in order, or reassembly. Just working backwards in the directions.

    Barry Coyle -

    I agree with @HBloomfield’s comment overall, but to add to that comment, mine was a little different.

    (2) Long: bottom center

    (4) Medium: bottom left and right; on either side of the CD/DVD drive

    (6) Short: everything else

    Jake Thornberry -

    Yes Jake I found the same with my iMac Model A1225.

    Andy -

    Be careful with the thermal sensor wire so that it won't get under the second bottom screw from the left.

    Sami k -

  5. DeBo1wxAFCN1aO1m
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    • La mascherina anteriore è ancora collegata all'iMac mediante il cavo del microfono.

    • Sollevare delicatamente la mascherina dal bordo superiore, lontano dal case posteriore.

    • Dopo aver rimosso il bordo superiore della mascherina anteriore dal case posteriore, ruotare la mascherina verso la staffa ed estrarla dal case posteriore.

    • Ruotare la mascherina anteriore lontano dal resto del dispositivo e adagiarla sul bordo superiore dell'iMac.

    • Per la reinstallazione della mascherina anteriore, iniziare dal bordo inferiore e verificare che sia allineata con il case posteriore prima di poggiare il bordo superiore sull'iMac.

    Contrary to the pictures, to lift the front bezel off, start at top of the computer screen lifting up while apply a little bit of pressure to the foam in the upper corners of the screen. This will give you the leverage needed to get the bezel to lift up. Be careful to not pull to fast, as the camera cable is still attached.

    armand -

    you'll need to add this step in all the other tutorials about iMac 20" EMC 2210, where it is missing ; they all jump from step 5 to step 6, which is a little annoying...

    Armel h -

    Easy way to remove bezel, insert the longest screws a quarter turn into the two top most edge screw slots. Use the screws as anchors to press against as you pull the bezel toward you. Then a simple twist to remove the screws, and the rest of the bezel comes off easy.

    armand -

  6. kUpsfj2YCtMpZeBC

    • Scollegare il connettore del cavo del microfono, rimuovendo il nastro secondo necessità.

    • Affinché la mascherina anteriore sia posizionata correttamente, verificare di aver inserito il connettore nello spazio vuoto accanto alla scheda della fotocamera.

    During reinstallation of the LCD panel, be sure that the iSight microphone cable does not become trapped behind the panel.

    Ocean Yamaha -

    I actually didn't have to remove the cable. With the iMac laying on its back, just rotate the front bezel (bottom edge rotating around top edge) so that it's laying upside down, above the iMac. When reassembling, just rotate back into place.

    Brian Tsai -

  7. IpXMeyHnDxLxjpXE
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    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 5,3 mm dal connettore dell'LCD.

    • Tenere saldamente la linguetta sulla parte superiore del connettore e rimuoverla dalla porta.

    • Assicurarsi di tirare la linguetta e non il cavo del connettore.

    remove the 8 screws (torx) that is holding the screen.

    Gideon Lamprecht -

    I actually had to use my 6H torx. my 4/5/6’s wouldn’t grab. Whether its from stripping or whatever the 6H worked fine.

    Thomas Keats -

    I completely stripped one of the T6 screws. If you did too, they are M2 screws. An M2x6mm with a couple washers works fine.

    When reassembling, it’s probably a smart move to reconnect this cable before putting the display-holding T8 screws in.

    Dave -

  8. a2EIOaPPLXLjINg2

    • Rimuovi le otto viti Torx T8 che fissano il pannello display al case posteriore.

    • L'iMac nella foto è un modello da 20", ma la posizione delle viti è approssimativamente la stessa.

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    • Posizionare le mani su entrambi i lati della parte inferiore del pannello del display e sollevarlo affinché sia possibile raggiungere i connettori all'interno.

    • Non tentare di rimuovere completamente il pannello del display, poiché è ancora collegato al resto del dispositivo.

    • Tenendo il pannello del display con una mano, individuare e rimuovere il cavo del sensore termico del display dal connettore.

    Make sure you reconnect the cable for the thermal display sensor during reassembly. If you don't, the fans will be running at max speed and you might think it is from the drive thermal sensor afterwards (which is an issue some users have and which can be fixed in software).

    jnavarro -

    I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

    Brian Tsai -

    The thermal sensor connection is more of a pain than it seems. It's a cramped area and it's not clear when it's properly plugged in during reassembly. It may *feel* like it's in, but then pops free at the slightest touch. I guarantee that if as soon as you start up, fans running max speed instantly is the indication this is the issue. If you're ok with that, then fine, but otherwise, you'll have to pull it apart again.

    Sheldon Carpenter -

    Unplugging the thermal sensor connection is easier said than done, but using the spudger here is very

    helpful

    Peter Bull -

    Brian Tsai has it RIGHT! I purchased the OWC SSD and bracket (NewerTech AdaptaDrive). Using the bracket box to support the LCD screen up on the upper left corner and getting adequate illumination it was really easy to change out the drive. Note - i used a knife to pop off the thermal sensor OFF THE DRIVE (not the PCB) as in Step 21, used the knife to pry off the connectors as in Step 16. I suspect you don’t even have to do Step 7.

    don delwood -

  10. FSoFRWcWCgSdXko3
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    • Tenendo ancora sollevato in display, premere saldamente il connettore del cavo dell'alimentatore con due dita per estrarlo dal relativo connettore femmina.

    • Porre molta attenzione a non toccare la superficie esposta dell'alimentatore per evitare il rischio di scosse elettriche dai diversi condensatori di grande capacità presenti sull'altro lato della scheda.

    When putting this back together it can be extremely difficult to plug this cable back in without removing a guard that is held in by 2x T8 Torx screws just next to it.

    Russell Knight -

    I will suggest to remove the other end of the socket which is connected to the display panel. You can never imagine how difficult it will be to plug in on the main body, unless you know well about it.

    Michael Shi -

    I didn't realize these comments were HERE? Poor web design if you can't see comments in an obvious way. Step 10 will cause you the most trouble in reassembling the computer and I knew it as soon as I popped that connector out off the board. Its really f*cking hard to get that connector hooked back up in the way it should be and I have small hands. I managed to get it at least partly pushed in after several tries. Over all it took over half an hour to get it back in there right and scared the !@#$ out of me because I didn't think I could get it done. Those stupid little plastic things won't help you here, the connector really needs to be pushed hard to get it back in. I ended up using a big beefy screw driver for slotted screws, about a ten inch long screwdriver. I used the blade on each end of the connector and was able to give it a good hard push on one end, then pushed on the other end, slowly rocking the connector back into full flush contact. Be real careful you aren't pushing on the ribbon at all.

    sdpickups -

    Having done this procedure 6+ times now, I can tell you it's much easier if, instead of holding the panel up by the "bottom" as illustrated in the guide, instead raise it by the "left" side. It gives you (me) much more room to get fingers behind the connector.

    May have been obvious to some, but this little adjustment didn't jump out at me until the 2nd or 3rd rebuild.

    Jeff Dickson -

    There are four screws holding the power supply in place. Two different thread types so make note! Then lifting the power supply enough to easily plug the power cable back in is MUCH less of a problem. Then put the four screws back and proceed on.

    racecornell -

    That´s exactly how I managed reassembling this connector very easily: Open the four screws, that hold down the platine and then lift it up a little bit.

    info -

    It isn't that hard if you start by hold the display panel up perpendicular to the case on the side of this challenging connector. From here you'll be able to connect the cable, then follow through with the two other connectors (two screws on the last one). Worked great for me.

    cjrocksu2005 -

    By far this was the most difficult cable to reconnect. I enlisted a second person to hold the display after I unscrewed the power supply (Torx 10, 4 screws) and was able to give my fingers adequate room to securely reattach it. There's no need to do this when disconnecting the power supply, but it would take more nimble fingers than mine to reattach it without loosening the power supply.

    Ron Lockhart -

    Do not remove this cable....! Too hard to get back there... I had to screw and lift up the whole platine to get the f**** cable back there....

    EASIER IS:

    # just remove the mic-cable (step6),the Thermal sensor (step9) the LCD-connector (step 10)...

    # then let someone lift up (works also alone) the screen on the right side (there where Superdrive is)...

    # remove Drive and Replace!!!!!

    # Reconnect the easy cables....

    anselm pavlik -

    agree! this cable is really tricky ...

    Johann -

    This step is TOTALLY UNNECESSARY on a 24" model!

    Skip it; you have enough space to lift the panel.

    Robert MacLeay -

    You don't need to do this step at all - you can leave the panel connected to the circuit board while you replace the hard drive. I did this while replacing the drive on my 24" iMac, just resting the panel on a box I had put next to the iMac on my desk, so that the panel stayed at the same level but was just moved and rotated sideways, with the cable still connected.

    HBloomfield -

    I had great success with just propping the top edge of the LCD display up with a box about 8" long. By doing so, I didn't have to remove the thermal sensor wire or the power cable.

    The power cable actually has a fair amount of play in it IF you peel back the thin black tape that affixes it to the LCD panel side to expose the power cable connector on the LCD side.

    Brian Tsai -

    Note: SERIOUSLY:

    - Disconnect the temp sensor from the iMac

    - Lift up the screen from the RIGHT side (as if the iMac were standing up, facing you) to a vertical position

    - Peel back the tape on the back of the LCD to expose the power supply connection

    - Pull the connection from the LCD

    - Attachment is the reverse

    MUCH easier

    Sheldon Carpenter -

  11. isnfQAuPSQTrZiAn

    • Sollevare e rimuovere il pannello del display dal dispositivo.

    There is (what it looks like) a display ribbon cable attached that is hard to disconnect.

    Sasmito Adibowo -

  12. TZrEAmUsUDYN6wHi
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    • Rimuovere il nastro che tiene l'unità ottica in posizione.

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T10 da 7,1 mm.

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    • Tenere saldamente il connettore dell'unità ottica ed estrarlo direttamente dall'unità stessa.

    • Rimuovere l'unità ottica dal dispositivo.

    The optical drive connector is pretty firmly jammed into its socket. Using the spudger to ease it out made the process much easier.

    Peter Bull -

  14. xMLxonRj22xFA2U1

    • Rimuovere la porzione di nastro in schiuma che copre il sensore termico dell'unità ottica.

  15. ifgEEqiRYNUTeLds

    • Per rimuovere il sensore termico dell'unità ottica, utilizzare la punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta centrale della staffa del sensore termico, applicando una leggera tensione al cavo del sensore.

    • Se il sensore termico è incastrato nell'unità ottica, andare al passaggio successivo.

  16. usVEZE5wsYaDv1G4

    • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovere la staffa del sensore termico dell'unità ottica dall'adesivo che la fissa all'unità stessa.

    • Qualora l'adesivo si sporcasse o non aderisse alla nuova unità ottica, posizionare un pezzo di nastro biadesivo sotto le due linguette semicircolari della staffa del sensore termico.

  17. X5AaoiPobinVbuqW

    • Mediante uno spudger, rimuovere la piccola parte di schiuma EMI dal lato inferiore dell'unità ottica.

    • Non dimenticare che deve essere trasferita alla nuova unità.

  18. yrpUVI3wDjODTMIy

    • Sollevare il nastro EMI dall'unità ottica.

    • Non dimenticare che deve essere trasferito alla nuova unità ottica.

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    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T10 da entrambi i lati dell'unità ottica, per un totale di quattro viti.

  20. DNtwjjZLRFwAlvmn

    • Mediante la punta di uno spudger, premere ciascuna delle linguette della staffa dell'unità ottica fuori dai rispettivi slot, nella parte inferiore dell'unità stessa.

  21. YhNTMO5PLFVTMhPW
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    • Ruotare leggermente la staffa dell'unità ottica, allontanandola dall'unità stessa.

    • Estrarre la staffa dall'unità ottica dall'estremità aperta di quest'ultima, prestando attenzione a non fare incastrare le linguette.

    • Se c'è un disco o altro bloccato nella tua unità ottica, abbiamo una guida per risolvere la situazione.

  22. jOcWYAYFKKAeGTKe

    • Rimuovi le tre viti con testa a croce Phillips n. 0 da 3 mm dal case dell'unità ottica.

    Hello, is the sata & power cabla from the mac can directly feet inside the SSD?

    Roman Quenin -

    plug in the back of the ssd

    Roman Quenin -

    I'm trying to find out as well. I read elsewhere you need something like this without the bracket: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    However I have NOT confirmed this.

    Allen Borza -

    If I understand you correctly; the enclosure allows you to use the existing iMac optical cable. Also the enclosure allows for a safe fitting of the optical drive. In my newer machine I had to double side tape the SSD to the back of the iMac and buy a special cable. Note: this was not an optical drive replacement scenario or I would have done exactly as this tutorial suggests.

    EkDor -

    I bought another caddy, not the one from the description. i had to extract the plastic adaptor from the optical drive and put in on the new caddy 12,7mm

    Cristian Pizarro -

    The SDD caddy I purchased was 22 pin SATA both inside and outside so that the optical drive cable (13 pin) would not fit. Does anyone know where I can find a SDD caddy with 13 pin SATA outside for the optical cable and 22 pin SATA inside for the SDD?

    benja.mcg -

  23. VaI5SLkgrwPSJqPx
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    • A partire dal bordo sinistro, apri delicatamente il case dell'unità ottica.

    • Continua ad aprire le due metà del case fino a separarle.

    This is the 12.7mm caddy.. but, the caddy 9.5 mm fit fine as well? or it doesn't fit on imac mid 2010

    Cristian Pizarro -

    My caddy (ordered 5/2019) had two additional screws that needed to be removed from the sides for it to open.

    mr.kaufman7 -

  24. AggSHSpIQC1DHPDo

    • Rimuovi le due viti con testa a croce Phillips n. 0 da 3 mm che fissano la mascherina al case dell'unità ottica.

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    • Solleva la mascherina in plastica nera dal case dell'unità ottica.

    • La mascherina e le due viti con testa a croce che la fissavano non saranno più necessarie. Conserva questi componenti nel caso tu intenda reinserire la mascherina nel case.

    • Riassembla il case dell'unità ottica senza la mascherina, riutilizzando le tre viti con testa a croce da 3 mm originali per preservarne l'integrità.

    Just curious, why is it necessary to remove this black plastic faceplate from the enclosure? It doesn't appear to serve any function in or out of the enclosure.

    Nic Johnson -

    Maybe because it would interfere with the bracket you have to put back on in step 21?

    Jeff Dickson -

    So I'm confused about the Optical Drive Bracket, the one that originally held the DVD-CD drive. I had an awful time remounting the kit into that bracket as the screws didn't line up correctly. I finally got everything to fit, less one of the four holding screws. Did anyone else experience this problem? I would have expected a much better alignment for this assembly considering the quality of the iFixIt site.

    For the record, the upgrade went fine with a SanDisk Extreme II 480GB SSD, but that one step was next to impossible, and not covered in any detail by the instructions.

    Ron Lockhart -

    Yep, I had exactly the same problem. The alignment was way off.

    olafgoy -

    My kit also did not line up correctly. I had to put all four screws in at an angle cross-threaded to mount the unit.

    Kevo -

    Same here. managed to get two screws in at a decent angle on one side and couldn't get the others in. Felt solid enough once I'd screwed the original ODD casing back onto the iMac.

    Monkeyrebirth -

    I had the same alignment problem, too. I ended up removing the rubber grommets from the plastic enclosure, widening the holes with a small file, then replacing the grommets. All four screws went in, but not in perfect alignment. Should be ok, though.

    nickmalmquist -

    Another possibility is the part has been designed to be used with different types of iMac and some utilise this component. In this case it apparently doesn't.

    EkDor -

    I bought a different enclosure than the one recommended ($18 instead of $39) and it came with new screws because the old screws were too big to fit in the holes for the new enclosure.

    Keith Mewis -

    Hi. Which enclosure did you buy? link please.

    Alex -

    Where did you get the alternative enclosure from?

    Walter Poole -

    I completed this guide last night on my iMac and it all worked great until I got to step 26 and none of the holes on the 12.7 mm PATA Optical Bay SATA Hard Drive Enclosure lined up with the black plastic faceplate. Just like what is being commented on by previous fixers, I could only get 2 screws on one side of the enclosure in, but they were crooked and unable to screw in all the way. It was crude, but it worked.

    The rest of this guide works flawlessly. This is a great site!

    Marc -

  26. ySbhhMVKBuFHSDNG
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    • Rimuovi il posizionatore di plastica dal case del disco rigido dell'alloggiamento ottico, premendo una delle clip poste lateralmente e sollevandolo dal case.

    What’s the switch for on the inside of the caddy? What position should it be in? Mine came switched to the right (towards SATA connector that disk inserts into).

    Robert Lord -

  27. pdKbwqliykNfMTgW
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    • Verifica che i connettori del disco rigido siano rivolti verso il basso prima di posizionarlo nel case.

    • Posiziona il disco rigido delicatamente nell'apposito slot del case.

    • Tenendo saldamente il case in posizione con una mano, premi il disco rigido nei connettori del case con l'altra.

  28. ZBHBhNAEYykJGdJd
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    • Una volta agganciato il disco rigido, reinserisci il posizionatore di plastica tenendo il disco premuto contro la parte inferiore del case.

    • Ricollega tutti i cavi rimossi dall'unità ottica originale nel case dell'alloggiamento ottico.

    Why no mention of attaching the new hard drive to the Optical Drive Enclosure using the enclosed phillips screws?

    Once you have securely inserted the new hard drive into the Optical Drive Enclosure and replaced the plastic positioner you should attach the drive to the enclosure using two of the provided phillips screws. Two holes on the underside of the enclosure should align with two attachment holes on the underside of the drive.

    nickmalmquist -

    I suspect that the plastic positioner will secure the drive well enough (for this style of adapter). As I mentioned in earlier comment, this should mean you can replace / upgrade the SATA drive later without needing to remove the adapter, skipping many steps.

    Les Kitchen -

    Do you need a sata cable to connect the new drive to the board or does it connect via the optical drive cable that we disconnected earlier?

    Erik Sawaya -

    It does connect to the optical drive cable but if you don't use the optical bay enclosure you'll need a 13 pins to 22 pins sata adaptor (and some tape!)

    The sata cable for the optical drive has 6 + 7 pins while ssd and hhd have 15 + 7 pins

    Graziano Nora -

    Can someone please explain why you need to remove the black plastic faceplate  from the optical bay enclosure. It is designed to receive the standard SSD. What is gained from removing a part of it?

    Peter Bull -

    Thank you! This guy has made upgrading the mid 2010 iMac I inherited from my mom MUCH easier and saved me a lot of time, trial, and error.

    Rob Anthony Dire -

    My Penrynn Super Drive has PATA connector, and now is a fossil grade rarity :-(

    IMI Comp -

    I'm a little confused. Do I need the enclosure from ifixit or am I removing the optical drive and installing an ssd in the preexisting op drive enclosure? If using the already existing enclosure what type of ssd do I need as for Sata connectors?

    danielpainter65 -

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Brittany McCrigler

Membro da: 05/03/12

88905 Reputazione

3 commenti

Many many many thanks, everything went fine with my iMac early 2009 which is now ready for a second life with my kids :)

davbouchard -

Mystery: I have removed and replaced my bezel many times - most recently to repair the vid card. However this time while powering up fine before replacing the bezel - now, once bezel is in place it won’t power on - but I hear a ‘click’ in the lower right corner after pushing the power. But then, if I pull the bezel back about an inch from the top - it starts >Something seems to be ‘shorting’ ?

Albert not Einstein -

Many thanks Brittany and ifixit, no problems encountered and it took me about 2 hours only because I checked and double checked everything I did. iMac early 2009, saved it from the scrap heap for a while longer.

Derek Anson -