Introduzione
How to remove the hard drive, along with its cable and bracket from your computer.
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Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.
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Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.
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Remove the following 6 screws:
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Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.
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Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.
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Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.
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Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.
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Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case. This stage can be quite tricky. Over the DVD reader are 4 tabs set back which pull out vertically.
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Note that the two small tongues on the left hand front of the upper case may bend while you remove the upper case. When re-installing, you may need to bend them back to fit in the grooves in the lower case.
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Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.
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Remove the upper case.
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Use a spudger to carefully loosen the adhesive securing the sleep light and IR sensor connectors to the top of the hard drive.
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Remove the two silver Phillips screws securing the hard drive retaining bracket to the lower case.
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Slide the Bluetooth board out of its slot next to the hard drive. The Bluetooth board is still connected to the orange hard drive cable, so don't try to remove it entirely from the computer.
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Lift the hard drive up with one hand and use your other hand to remove the retaining bracket from the side of the hard drive.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Un commento
I love everyone's different approaches. I used a piece of paper with written descriptions of screw locations. I put a strip of double-sided tape next to each description and stuck the screws to them. The paper got moved all over my office before I finished the project, and the screws stayed in place.
Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process
rpbetancourt -
If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)
Adam -
Thank you very much!
Evgeniy -
When I did this, I used a empty egg carton to store my screws. I wrote the steps where I removed screens in Sharpie on the bottom of the "egg cup" and then dropped the screws in as I went. Then I just worked backwards to put it all back together.
mark93 -
I Generally just use a piece of paper with a rough sketch of the system and locations of the screws with prestik.
Tarn Alcock -