Introduzione
Use this guide to replace the aluminum clutch cover.
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Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery and lift the battery out of the computer.
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Remove the four identical Phillips 3.4 mm screws from the memory door. These screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
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Lift the memory door up enough to get a grip on it, and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.
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Remove the three Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch. Apple was nice enough to tilt these screws at a slight angle to make them easier to remove. On the A1261 these screws have 4 mm diameter heads rather than the 3 mm heads on the body screws.
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Remove the following six screws:
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Two 14.5 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.
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Four 3.4 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.
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Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.
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Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four Phillips screws from the side of the computer.
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Lift up the back of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.
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Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board.
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Remove the upper case.
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Disconnect the two antenna cables from the AirPort Extreme card, the iSight and inverter cables from the left side of the logic board, and the display data cable from the right side of the logic board. Be careful to slide the connectors as they may become damaged otherwise.
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Carefully peel the iSight and inverter cables off the top of the left fan and de-route the AirPort antenna cables from the channel in the left speaker.
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Remove the ten silver T6 Torx screws securing the display (five on each side-take note that the inside screws on both sides are longer with a thinner head).
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Remove the Phillips screws from the lower left and right corners of the display (two screws total).
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Insert the flat end of a spudger perpendicular to the face of the display between the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel and the front bezel.
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With the spudger still inserted, rotate it away from the display to separate the front and rear bezels.
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Work along the right edge of the display until the rear bezel is evenly separated from the front bezel.
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Insert your spudger between the front and rear display bezels at the lower right corner of the display.
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Pry the rear bezel away from the front bezel to slightly separate the bottom edge of the rear display bezel.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between the rear display bezel and the clutch cover.
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Twist the spudger to separate the lower edge of the rear display bezel from the clutch cover.
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Work along the lower edge of the rear bezel until it is evenly separated from the clutch cover.
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Now that the right and bottom edges of the rear bezel are slightly separated from the front bezel, use a spudger to pop the rear bezel off the tabs near the lower right corner of the display.
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Insert the flat end of a spudger between the front bezel and the plastic strip attached to the rear bezel near the screw holes at the bottom corners of the display.
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Rotate your spudger toward the rear bezel to separate it from the front bezel.
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Slightly lift the lower edge of the display and pull it away from the rear display bezel.
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The rear display bezel remains.
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Disconnect the inverter cable by pulling its connector away from the socket on the inverter board.
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Disconnect the backlight connector from the inverter board.
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Remove the inverter from the display.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to carefully peel off the three antenna straps stuck to the lower edge of the LCD.
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Remove the five Phillips screws securing the clutch cover to the bottom edge of the front display bezel.
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Disconnect the display data cable from the LCD by pulling it toward the bottom edge of the display.
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While pulling the clutch assembly away from the clutch hinge with one hand, insert an iPod opening tool between the clutch cover and the front display bezel to lift the clutch cover over the retaining pin on the front display bezel.
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Pull the clutch assembly away from the front display bezel.
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Repeat the process covered in the previous step to free the other side of the clutch assembly from the front display bezel.
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Remove the clutch assembly from the front display bezel, minding any cables that may get caught.
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Remove the five small Phillips screws securing the plastic antenna cover to the inside of the clutch cover.
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Pull the antenna cover off the clutch cover, being careful not to damage the antenna cables.
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Remove the antenna cables from the clutch cover, being careful not to damage the three antenna straps.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Before upgrading to a larger HD, you'll want to "clone" your original HD using the donation-ware program "Carbon Copy Cloner" (http://www.bombich.com/). Put the new HD in an external case; clone the original; test the clone (by starting up with it), then take apart the MacBook to put the new HD in the MacBook, and the original in the external case for use as a backup, etc. (You can't just drag the contents of the original HD to the new HD, and expect it to work; not since the days of OS 9 and before.)
amiller770 -
Can I put more than two gigabytes of RAM in?
Noah Nsangou -
mine has 2g*2=4 gb ram in. you should be fine
on mac forum it suggested to put 4gb and a 2gb in a1261.
david -
I made the mistake of wanting to do a clean install of OS and start fresh after installing a SSD. Now I can't install most browsers on OSX Leopard. Does anyone know what is the most current version of OS I can put on this system? (disk or download) Can I get to Snow or Lion?
2006 17" MackBook Pro Model#A1151
2.16 GHz Intel Core Duo
Memory: Two 1GB 667 MHz
Hard Drive: Corsair Force GS: SSD 128GB
scannon -
You can install OS X 10.7 LION and no later version. Although LION runs ok with 2GB RAM it does help to get 1GB + 2GB = 3GB. Even if you install 2 X 4GB you will only utilize 3GB. Installing a SSD seems to make no difference since the SATA bus is only 1.5GB/s. A good 5400rpm disk is good enough. I even run BootCamp and Windows 7. Works fine. Not fast but fine. My A1212 refuses to die :-)
asle -
There seems to be some discrepancy about whether or not installing a SSD will help. See Phil's earlier comment from October 2015: there, *he* claims that having an SSD increases the load times significantly, (even though -- of course -- 1.5Gbps is not ideal)...
His quotation, (re-)cited integrally:
Just replaced my old HD with a Corsair Force LX SSD (which is SATA 1-3 compatible as required by this model) with success now my old 'outdated' laptop has super fast loading times and is postively flying faster than the speed of 'sound'. Thanks for the guide. Only problem I faced was replacing the top panel which after a few minutes of panic realised the rubber mounted Mic next to the left speaker had risen up when I had removed the top panel so after carefully pushing it back into place the panel fitted back how it should, so beware of this possible problem.
Phil - 10/07/2015
at0gjm -
Bonjour j'ai besoin de cette bactérie que dois-je faire ?
basile kouamé YAO -