New Nintendo 2DS XL Charging Port Replacement

Scritto Da: Abolee Diwate
  • Commenti: 27
New Nintendo 2DS XL Charging Port Replacement

Difficoltà

Difficult

Passi

10

Tempo Necessario

20 - 35 minuti

Introduzione

Damage to the charging port of the New Nintendo 2DS XL (MODEL NUMBER) may render the device to eventual power failure. Any poor charging connections or inability to insert the cable into the port may suggest for the removal of the port from the device. This guide offers a suggested coarse of action in safely removing and replacing the charging port.

Inspect the port for any foreign debris that may be desturbing the connection between charging cable and port. Also, inspect the charging chord to ensure that there is no considerable damage to that may affect its performance. Please ensure that the port is the most possible problem before attempting to remove from the device.

Step 7 does require soldering of three pins that allow for the mounting of the charging port onto the circuit board.

Before beginning disassembly, fully power off the device and disconnect any chargin ports or input devices.

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    • Before starting the disassembly, remove

    • The stylus

    • Any game cartridge

    • The SD card

    This is a great repair instructional, but I would advise also looking at the below video link. (I used both.) Sometimes watching 2 repair guides can help when you think you think you’re stuck. For example, I had a really hard time getting the hinge off!

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zuu_T2ls...

    (HINT: Works best if you rotate it 180 degrees, so that you are repairing it from the same perspective as the technician)

    skat1140 -

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    • Unscrew the four 6mm tri-point screws located at the four corners of the bottom panel.

    The Y0 was too big; I ended up using a Y00 and that worked fine

    Christopher Gilmer-Hill -

    Would not recommend using a Y000 like I tried to do

    Daniela Magaña-Ochoa -

    gotta use Japanese Industry Standard YOO (blunt end)- I did not, and accidentally stripped two of the screws… still trying to figure out how to remove them -_-;

    Yanko Artidiello -

    Yeah I can confirm, the y0 does not work.

    Arc Turus -

    I'm using the Y-0.6 and seems to only unscrew 2 of the screws on the right side of the handheld, the other 2 aren't moving

    Xx_Definity_J0rd4n_xX -

    screws are too tight

    Albert Einstien -

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    • Be careful when separating the bottom panel from the front casing to avoid breaking the three cables connected to the motherboard (two on each side and one in the rear).

    • Using a spudger, separate the back panel from the front casing by gently prying around the panel.

    • There are many clips along the hinge of the case, so it is recommended to work your way along one short side and the two long sides before finishing the last short side.

    You need to be super careful separating the top from the bottom at the rear end. I got stuck there, applied a lil more force and ripped the right shoulder button straight off the pcb!

    Dominik Leicht -

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    • Using tweezers, disconnect the two cables that connect the rear buttons on either side to the motherboard by gently pulling them upwards.

    I unfortunately took off the base of one when trying to pull apart. Is there a fix or will it not be broken?

    Phoenix Typhoon -

    Did you manage to fix this at all?

    Owen McKay -

    When you are putting these cables back, make sure to check the orientation of the cable. You have to match the cable head to the entry point, so you may have to turn the cable around. I spent a bit too much time trying to connect the cables just because I didn't realize that I had to turn the cable around.

    Hongda Wang -

    Aren't these the speaker cables? I haven't taken any 2DS's apart in a while, but I'm pretty sure these cables connect to the speakers

    darth mango -

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    • Using a spudger, lift out the battery.

    • Be aware that there is a sticky pad holding the battery into its tray. It may be necessary to use multiple tools to gently pry the battery away from the tray and motherboard.

    Some might see this as an optional step. But you probably do NOT want to skip this. I did, and now I have malfunctions on the Nintendo (touch screen functionality not working, possibly as a result of shorts from skipping this step.)

    skat1140 -

    Personally, I skipped this step and everything still works fine. I wasn't able to take the battery out because the adhesive was too strong.

    Hongda Wang -

    Small square of adhesive. Pull up slowly and it’ll release after 10-20 seconds

    Jacob Cocanig -

    Any advise for dealing with CTR-003 spicy pillow? So far in this transplant operation, both my devices batteries are okay... but... I dunno, if I were to run into a spicy pillow in the future, what would be the least awful way to pull it out?

    Not sorry, when I see these repair jobs that involve the company gluing the battery into the device (or even soddering in that soon to be spicy pillow) this is just something I'm wondering about

    Katrina Payne -

    I haven't taken my 2ds apart yet, depending on how devices are built it might work to slide a solid thread (eg fishing rope, or floss but that might rip) under it, and do a sewing motion.

    Franziska (Natsu) -

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    • There are 8 ribbon cables that need to be removed as shown in the picture.

    • 2 of connectors (in green) are friction fit, unlike the rest of the connectors. Remove the cable by pulling it out gently. Do not attempt to open or unlatch these connectors in any way. Doing so will break them.

    • For the remaining 6 (in red), use a pair of tweezers to flip the latches up and pull the ribbon cable out.

    • Note that the second picture shows a broken ribbon connector next to the joystick ribbon connector (to the right of the red arrow). Do not attempt to unlatch this connector as shown in the picture!

    Do not just pull up “latches”, two of these are not zif connectors and pulling the top off will break it! I now have a dead 2DS XL because I followed this guide.

    Pressing the ZL button on device turns system off.

    Dunnymeister -

    I made the same mistake. The guide is now updated.

    Mike -

    Trying to follow this guide... uh... what is a latch? That is a type of leverage based opening/closing device right? I'm not seeing anything on my board or in the images that I could call a "latch"

    I'm not able to find this locking mechanism described in the image... much less know what I am using tweezers on

    I would love to go further... but uh... there is no leverage based locking/closing/opening device in any of the images that I can see... no I can see on my board

    Katrina Payne -

    Oh right, and it doesn't take a psychic to know somebody is going to be all "ooh, why not Google it". After about a full page of ads, this is the Wikipedia entry for Latches. I do not see anything in the image, or on my board that matches that

    Katrina Payne -

    Okay update on how I got confused... turns out all the latches (except one) were already open. Apparently I tend to jostle my game device a bit on the hard side... and at some point they all (except one) came exceptionally loose. I literally could have just pulled the ribbon cables out

    On a related note... the reason my R-Button wasn't working wasn't due to stickiness... turns out I had somehow managed to push it so hard it depopulated itself from the board and was just sitting loose inside the case (well... as loose as it could be... it did not travel too much)... going to need to figure out how to repopulate the R-Button--looks like it could prolly be resoddered back in

    Prolly a good thing these repair guides exist

    But yeah... turns out all the clasps/latches whatever were completely open when I opened the case... that would prolly explain why the battery kept draining so quickly

    Katrina Payne -

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    • Unplug the following wires from the motherboard using a pair of tweezers.

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    • Remove the seven 4.4 mm screws using a J00 Phillips screwdriver bit.

    • Remove the motherboard from the device.

    Step 8 motherboard screws are J00 Phillips.

    Joseph Costello -

    Thank You!!!

    Zach -

    Guide has been updated.

    Mike -

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    • Remove the motherboard and locate the charging port. Flip the the motherboard over.

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    Great tutorial, Abolee! I am trying to find a place to get a 2ds xl power jack replacement, but seems almost impossible to find it. Do you have any idea where to find it?

    joao.marco.ismart -

    Not ideal, but you can use replacements for DSi and (not-new) 2DS which are very common. This worked for me. They seemed identical except for 2 features:

    1. New 2DS has a single centered leg in the front. DSi has two in the front on the sides.

    2. New 2DS has plastic on the bottom that sets it about 1mm off the PCB. DSi does not.


    You have to remove the extra 2 front legs (don't simply bend them inward, this blocks cable insertion) and use something as a spacer to prop it off the PCB about 1mm. I used thin cardboard. You can compare it to the existing port before you remove it. Worked like a charm for me.

    Mike -

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Autore

Abolee Diwate

Membro da: 04/11/19

112 Reputazione

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