Sostituzione Altoparlante Sinistro MacBook Air 11" Mid 2011

Scritto Da: Walter Galan
  • Commenti: 30
Sostituzione Altoparlante Sinistro MacBook Air 11" Mid 2011

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Introduzione

Rock troppo duro? Utilizza questa guida per sostituire un altoparlante sinistro distrutto.

  1. 2uMPhxrYSdfxumSQ

    • Spegni e chiudi il tuo portatile. Appoggialo su una superfice morbida a testa in giù.

    • Svita le seguenti dieci viti:

    • Due viti Pentalobe 5-Point da 8 mm

    • Otto viti Pentalobe 5-Point da 2,5 mm

    • Puoi trovare il cacciavite speciale per rimuovere le viti Pentalobe 5-Point qui.

    When you say:

    Remove the following ten screws:

    Two 8 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Eight 2.5 mm 5-point Pentalobe screws

    Do the 8mm & 2.5mm dimensions refer to the LENGTH of those screws, or the size of the pentalobe? That is, are there other sizes of pentalobe drivers like there are for hex, phillips and torx? When only one dimension is provided, it is usually the socket/driver size, not the screw length, maybe since the length cannot be seen when the screw is installed.

    Can I suggest that you clarify your instructions so folks are confident they are only in need of _one_ pentalobe driver?

    Nerdily yours,

    Larry (whose iPhone 4S can now get through a day without 6 recharges thanks to ifixit.com ;-)

    larryleveen -

    The 8mm and 2.5mm are the length of the screws. One pentalobe P5 screwdriver suffices for all the screws (P5 is implicitly the size of the pentalobe screw heads).

    Michael Welham -

    I sourced all the parts from ifixit, plus a magnetic project mat which I found to be very useful for organising the teardown and reassembly.

    Allen -

    The magnetic mat is

    GERARD SZAREK -

    Keep the 2.5mm tiny screws away from the MagSafe connector as they will be attracted and sucked in to the magnet.

    Frank O'Carroll -

    A tip an old bench tech taught me that has saved me many times: I put clear “Scotch” tape over the case screws as they became “free”. The tape kept them in place while I lifted the lid off, cleaned it etc.

    Michael Mee -

    Thank you for a really smart tip! I will be using that countless more times!

    Lilljedahl -

    I’m confused about internet recovery and installing MacOS. Is all of this done before placing in the new ssd card or after. I don’t have any files that I would like to safe/transfer, is all of this necessary, if I don’t do it before placing new ssd, will I still be able to instal/upgrade macOS afterwards.

    It’s an old Mac and now it won’t start or charge, I know I will have to replace battery and put new battery first and turn on Mac before doing the ssd stuff. Since it won’t effing start.

    I’m really clueless about backing up old ssd, since I don’t need any files, besides MacOS(software) ,and is that related to the ssd?

    AMG -

    The answer to your question: You need to insert your SSD into the computer before internet recovery. If you start the recovery before inserting SSD, it won’t affect the setup, you won’t damage anything. But your SSD will not be detected (as there isn’t one inserted.)

    Also, a little tip: If you bought a used SSD, go into Disk Utility and format the drive with the highest security level to permanently remove all of the previous files.

    Also a FYI: Internet Recovery will load up Mac OS X 10.9.5 Mavericks, so I would recommend making a recovery drive from a Big Sur (or desired version) through another Mac, and a USB. You can visit this support doc: https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201372

    Hope this helps! -Dan

    danielwen -

    I got a macbook air with a damaged and swollen battery. I could remove all screws, except one 2,5 mm screw. I’m afraid it got damaged while attempting to remove it, I have no grip with the P5 pentalobe screwdriver. How can I proceed?

    Robert Hermans -

    Hi Robert!

    Try some techniques found in this stripped screw removal guide. Good luck!

    Arthur Shi -

    Hello I have a macbook air they are say they do not have parts for my laptop macbook air 11 inches 2013 mid need to replace battery which one to buy

    vensilver -

    Hello! This is the part you want—maybe we’re not able to ship it to you if you’re out of the United States. The battery in your MacBook Air should be the same for all 11” between mid-2011 to early-2015.

    Arthur Shi -

    The smaller screws went in more easily when I put back all the screws along the hinge edge first.

    Rachel Slatkin -

  2. yuZ5Ls2UHZLyfewD

    • Infila le dita tra lo schermo e la scocca inferiore e tira verso l'alto per liberare la scocca dal MacBook Air.

  3. 5V1AATGRtjoScuEF
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    • Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per fare leva su entrambi i lati del connettore della batteria per sollevarlo e scollegarlo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

    • Piega leggermente il cavo della batteria in modo che il connettore non faccia accidentalmente contatto con la presa.

    I performed this on my MacBook Air (11-inch, Mid 2011), model A1370. Rather than using the spudger to un-attach the batter connector, I gripped either side with my fingers as the second photographs indicated, and gently pry/wiggled it up and out by initially pinching into the side gap with my finger nails. The reason I did it this way is that the spudger works by leverage and I was afraid to rest it against the components surrounding the connector. The photos and instructions are excellent and illustrate the maneuver perfectly.

    Allen -

    Hello there... In my case by battery exploded.... Can I still try to change it using these instructions?

    Fabio Matos -

    The instruction to lift the edges of battery connector before disconnecting is certainly not clear. In my case, the cconnector pins came off the board with the battery, requiring further costly repairs. I would suggest that this instruction be more specific and include a caution.

    Deirdre Rogan -

    It worked fine for me, but as others mentioned, you need to be careful to remove the battery connector from the motherboard connector and not accidentally remove the motherboard connector from the motherboard itself.

    Additionally, on reassembly, I found that quit a bit of pressure was needed to get the new battery's connector to snap in place. More than I was comfortable applying, but it was necessary and it worked without a problem.

    shamino -

    I just used my finger(nails), came off easily (even though i have a full iFixIt set).

    Dennis van der Pool -

  4. pBAijKIeiULMsQoN

    • Svita le seguenti cinque viti che fissano la batteria alla scocca superiore:

    • Due viti Torx T5 da 5,2 mm

    • Una vite Torx T5 da 6 mm

    • Due viti Torx T5 da 2,6 mm

    In my case the screw points connecting the old battery the case had fractured or broken. The broken bits needed to be cleaned out of the case before installing the replacement battery. Didn't want any loose fragments rattling about inside.

    Allen -

  5. qCPSASReBDLIvyLQ

    • Quando lavori con la batteria evita di schiacciare o toccare le sei celle ai polimeri di litio esposte.

    • Solleva la batteria dal suo bordo più vicino alla scheda madre e rimuovila dalla scocca superiore.

    • Se stai installando una nuova batteria dovresti calibrarla una volta rimontato il tutto:

    • Carica al 100% e lascia sotto carica per almeno altre 2 ore. Quindi scollega l'alimentatore e usa il dispositivo normalmente per scaricare la batteria. Quando vedi l'avviso di batteria quasi scarica, salva il tuo lavoro e continua ad usare il portatile finché non si spegne. Aspetta almeno 5 ore, quindi carica la batteria al 100% senza interruzioni.

    • Se riscontri dei comportamenti anomali o dei problemi dopo l'installazione, potresti dover resettare l'SMC del tuo MacBook.

    What if new battery comes with what looks like plastic around the 6 cells?

    Allison -

    I'm having trouble reconnecting the pins to the new battery cable. Any suggestions?

    Deirdre Rogan -

    The cable on my new battery needed to be massaged to reconnect with the pins. Use your old battery as an example for how the cable should sit in the empty space.

    Joe Ponce -

    In my case, the replacement battery cable was quite stiff. In order to properly connect it to the logic board, BEFORE screwing the battery into the board, I carefully bent the cable and I connected it to the board. AFTER connecting the cable, carefully move the part of the batter closest to the logic board into place, and take care of those screws first.

    Chris 1000 -

    Followed the instructions and everything went smoothly. Less than 20 minutes later everything assembled and my MacBook Air working very well.

    Thanks

    Luis Lopes -

    Two of the battery cells were “blown up” in my laptop. We simply removed it with these instructions and now it’s working again, when plugged in only, of course.

    bob -

    As with Chris 1000, the replacement battery cable is stiff. First position the battery loosely into it's slot, then align the cable connector over the pins & press gently but firmly to seat the connector. Secondly, seat the battery to line up with all of it's screw fasteners for the reassembly.

    Steve G -

    Instructions did not mention the plastic film on top of the battery. Similar to a peel away film on a new phone. But it had screws holes in it and does not peel away as easily as a phone Peels away from edge easily enough but had a little "pull" to it over the cells. For now I left it. Quick google searches did not clarify the issue. If anyone can confirm I should pull it off I'll open it up again and remove. The install is easy.

    Eric Strausser -

    I think I saw a note that said to leave it. But side-note, i'm glad to see someone replacing the battery more recently, as I just purchased myself a new macbook but my son asked if we can replace the battery and I honestly didn't even realize that it was possible for some reason. I think for the minimal cost involved and the fact that my 2011 still works flawlessly he'll enjoy it for a few more years to come as well. I hope the new ones are made as well quality wise!!

    Teresa Powell -

  6. QfPHrmEEsRxTmu6Q

    • Utilizza l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore del cavo I/O dalla sua presa sulla scheda I/O.

    • Piega il cavo lontano dalla scheda I/O.

  7. dGvkLP4fG1SdxFPV

    • Utilizza la punta di un spudger per staccare il cavo dell'altoparlante sinistro dalla tacca scavata nel bordo della scheda I/O.

    in my case, the non-original speaker replacement cable was not long enough to go into the notch cut, so I had to leave it loose but was kept in place by the I/O board cable connector, so all good in the end

    Francesco -

  8. OcEgHnRcRgvCWTJT

    • Utilizza l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare ed estrarre il connettore dell'altoparlante sinistro dalla sua presa sulla scheda I/O.

    • Assicurati di sollevare verso l'alto i fili da sotto.

  9. qtWxFssTDAMGeTxN
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    • Utilizza l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare l'altoparlante sinistro dall'adesivo che lo fissa al case superiore.

    • Solleva l'altoparlante solo dalle aree di alluminio sul case superiore. Facendo leva dalla zona della tastiera si può danneggiare la tastiera e l'altoparlante stesso.

  10. 4pt5WVPaWCHycTXA

    • Rimuovi l'altoparlante sinistro dal case superiore.

Conclusione

Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Walter Galan

693762 Reputazione

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