Sostituzione Altoparlante Sinistro MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Metà 2012

My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

Tip: if you have a magnetic screw mat or similar, lay the macbook over the mat to make sure it catches any screws that may decide to fall of and hide under your table

Funny, it's not her hands that are doing the close ups. :)

What's the difference between the shouldered and non shouldered screws? They look exactly the same to me.

I used the nails of thumb and pointer finger simultaneously - worked pretty fine

I whittled down ends of two wooden strips to use, along with my fingernails to start with. I used halves of a wooden clothespin, but popsicle sticks should work too.

I suspect it’s just like the special screwdriver required for seatbelts on cars – to discourage regular consumers from attempting repairs. Of course, this only encourages consumers to use the wrong tool to attempt to repairs

Dissambling my MacBookPro Premium Mid 2012 (i5-3210M 2.5Ghz) was easily, Careful with the screws, use screwdriver fitting exactly with the screws, you damage them very fast. Work very exactly, relaxed with time, consentration, good Tools and with feelings in your hands. Disconnect the Akku was easy if you take care, remove it to be safe, Two screws more, more space to work & haven`t to think about damaging someting. Apple use diffrent screws, you should have many difffrent scewdrivers. It is also good to clean everything inside, With time everything gets very dusty & dirty, don`t forget the sides and little fittings at the case. Use a pinsel, alcohol, soft peace stuff, it will look like new. If you have knowledge & experience, you can paint it in any colour or airbrushing for individualizing. You can also just polish it with a soft Politure (Sonax car Polish No1, NOT with wax or take an other light Politure you familiar & can do the job, A Laptop should serviced once a year, keeping it good working over years

First thing i do is open & cleanig everything inside,specially the cooling & fan, renew the thermal paste with an high quality product. Install the Nain System, clean up Bloatware and other unnecessary things, install standard software for daily use, additional change system components against better one (Edge to Firefox, Windows Media Player to VLC , an Office Suite and configuring everything for Data Protection, Privacy- & Indentety Protection, install Drivers from the component Manufactur (incedible effect, disable limitations, more functions, work better & faster, increasing performance, additional change the WiFi & Bluetooth Card to a better one a UMTS WWAN to an LTE Card, increase RAM with two Dual-Channel working SODIMMs, Use M2 or 2,5" SSD if no M2 Slot aviable) as System- and Software iDrive, a FAT32 formatted 32GB Partition to be safe of metaviruses comes with harmless downloads, and a big 2,5 HDD to store the user data. What does you guys think about this? Old Computer become a new life,

I livein Austria, near Vienna, if someone needs help or anything else, i would be glad to help. I always searching old or broken devices to bring them to new live. I also searching for spare parts, specilly a Bottom & Side Case and a 256GB or higher NGFF Storage Card for a Sony Vaio Tab 11 SVT1144HE (2014), some 14,1" Displays for a HP Probook 440G5 (2016), Elitebook MT 43 Mobile Thin Client, (2011), Dell Vostro 3460 (2012) Lenovo Thinkpad T440s (2014), and a Logic Board for an Lenovo Ideapad 330-15ARR (2017, damaged by Water i think) and a Logic Bord for an Alienware 17R4 with i7-6870HX & Nvidia 1080 (2018, CPU dead, maybe there is a repair Guide or workaround to bring it back to Life). I need always 8GB or 16GB DDR3 and DDR4 RAM Storage (perfectly two ident one for Dual-Channel use for Laptops, M2 SATA 6GB/s and NVMe PCIe SSDs 500GB or more and 2,5"SSD or HDD with 1TB or more and 3,5" HDD with 4GB or above. If you have some of this or other useful parts and doesn`t need them, please make me an offer, maybe

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an change something you need. This is not a Business what i do, it`s more a Hobby with challenging new Excercices.. Thats the best Point. Plase forgive me as a Newbie this very long Post in the wrong Section, but if you are start writing you cannot stop.... But now i have to come to an end and would be happy if someone wants to get in contact. My E-Mail is: udontknowme@gmx.at (the adress name is just a notice against Big Data and for Privacy Protection!

For less than $16 I ordered a new fan from amazon. Fans eventually start making noise. If they fail, your system could expire from heat. Consider simply replacing your fan since this model is now about five years old. Here’s link:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FWP...

I used a guitar pick and gently wiggled underneath to lift it up and out of the socket. no damage! woo hoo! on to step 7!

Yes, tricky. Insert the spudger just like in the photo. You won’t be able to dig it out out from any other side. Also, notice which side of the connector faces down into the socket: it is the side without the four shiny gold areas (again, just like in the photo).

I used a really thin, plastic spudger gently inserting from each side on mid-2012 and then very gently twisting the spudger. It worked fine without tearing or damaging anything. When reinstalling the connector, do not forget to twist it 180 degrees so that the open side of the connector is facing down to insert properly for seating.

T5 for me, my MBP was manufactured in 2015.

When seating the fan, be aware that the cutout on the fan for the wire harness may not match up with the cutout on the board itself. Line the wires up to the board and then seat the fan in an incremental manner - gently pushing at each connecting hole. Then put the screws in without tightening at first. Once all of the screws are seated, then sequentially snug them up. Finally, push down gently on the fan and snug up each screw without over tightening. I found that the fan seats a tad further and I wanted to avoid future rattles. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THOUGH.

This one took me a moment to figure out. I also have the foam pad and couldn't see where the socket begins. Use the flat end of the spudger and go underneath the red/black cable part close to the socket, then slowly lift it up until it loosens a little, then do the same on the other side.

This is a top-down connector. To remove, use a spudger from underneath. To insert, just push on from top gently.

Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

Mail : mr.leminecrafteur@gmail.com

Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

Same, any suggestion about its replacement?

Really grip those little bumps on the head with a pair of pliers and gently wiggle!

In case you need replacement parts for the broken cable : http://www.powerbookmedic.com/MacBook-Pr...

To find out how to replace the cable, you can have a look at this tutorial : https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem...

Die Metallverbindung besteht aus zwei Teilen. Der kabelferne Teil drückt den Stecker nach unten. Der kabelferne Teil ist ein festgelöteter Schuh. Mit Hilfe einer dünnen Präpariernadel konnte ich den kabelzugewandten, beweglichen Metall-Teil der Verbindung zum einen horizontal herausschieben, zum anderen habe ich gleichzeitig gezogen. Nicht zu viel Kraft beim Ziehen aufwenden.

Mir hat geholfen, ein Makrofoto vom Stecker zu machen, um ihn zu verstehen.

Do not pull the camera cable! You will pull the wires out of the connector. The camera cable has two metal sides. Push on the metal part horizontally out, then alternate, until the cable comes out from the socket.

Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

The tape tirck saved my bacon!! Thank YOU!

Thanks so much. This trick saved the day!!!!

It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

Der Sicherungsbügel kann leicht mit dem Fingernagel vom Mainboard um 90 Grad zu mir her geklappt werden. ACHTUNG: Genau lesen, filigrane Teile gehen leicht kaputt.

The tape trick worked for the smaller keyboard backlight ribbon but not this bigger ribbon…. I might take it to a repair shop because I’m out of ideas. Anyone know any other solution? I think someone mentioned using a pencil eraser as a grip on another site… might try that.

One alternative method to the tape trick that worked for me goes as follows:

0. To prevent possible damage, please do everything listed very gently.
1. First, slide one of the corners of the cable into the socket. If the corner is properly fitted, the cable shouldn't go up when you stop holding it down with your hand.
2. Next, slide the corner to its corresponding side (eg: if you slid the right corner, then push it to right). This should leave you with one side of the cable more tucked in than the other; but the whole cable is now in the socket.
3. Gently, try to push the cable the whole way in. At this point it's trial and error, but it's faster than trying to slide the whole cable at once in my experience.

If the cable is correctly inserted, the white lines on it should all be "connected" or under the black top part of the socket.

It is advised to tape this connectors out of the way of the mainboard. Use paper tape or paper labels as you want to avoid the electrical discharge associated with peeling off of plastic tape.

Hi! I accidently popped the conector from the logic board. I bought a replacement, but im not sure how to glue/sold it to the board again. Can you help?

The flat battery indicator cable sits directly underneath the headphone jack/port and then goes to the top on the right side of the battery screw. If you forgot to put it underneath the port when reinserting the logic board (which leads to the battery not fitting), carefully slide it underneath the port into the small available space with a spudger.

I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

This resolved it for me. My clasp wasn’t didn’t seem worn in any way but it seemed when it was clamped it caused the short circuit causing my screen to be black upon turning on. Lifting the clasp immediately resolved it. Odd issue! Thanks very much for the video. Incredibly helpful.

Same problem as other users here at this point. I screwed the casing a little, and it worked, but I like to do things properly.

If you want to fix it 1) open your computer.

2) the flex of the screen has a kind of little lock made on wire.

3) put the lock around the connection you should ear a little sound when it reach the good position. Make sure the tongue of the flex is above of the lock. And then it is fixed.

Wish it helps and sorry by my English.

Idk how to include photos

When reinstalling the cable, it is quite easier to do WITHOUT the display data cable retainer (step 17), in case you are reassembling everything in reverse order, as said in the guide's conclusion.

While this can make the resitting of the cable easier, one of the retainer's screws is directly below the cable, so you'll probably have to do some funny screwing to reinstall the retainer.

on something like this (like in iphones) i print the picture and place the screws on the picture. saves some problems and guessing.

Well on my mid 2012 MacBook Pro the screw heads are definitely not T6 but rather J000. Will place the removed screws on a paper drawing of logic board. Good tip ….

Vraiment pénible cette déconnection, allez y gentiment et la colle partira.

when reseating the logic board, first install the DC board in position and loosely seat the screws. then try to align the logic board to the 3.6mm screw housing closest to the firewire/ thunderbolt port and align the board to the ports and gently drop it into position. watch out for the cables that can get snagged under the board while seating it.

I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

I removed the battery …. helps getting the logic board out.