Sostituzione Gruppo Tasto Posteriore Controller DualSense Sony

Scritto Da: Sam Omiotek

Commenti: 58

Sostituzione Gruppo Tasto Posteriore Controller DualSense Sony

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

Tempo Necessario

1 - 2 ore

Introduzione

Segui questa guida per sostituire i gruppi dei tasti posteriori (trigger) su un controller DualSense di Sony PlayStation 5.

Questi gruppi contengono sia i tasti posteriori e i motori a resistenza adattativa.

Nota: Questa guida è per i controller DualSense con un FCC ID che termina in 1. Controlla sul retro del tuo controller per verificare il modello. Se il tuo termina in A, ci saranno differenze nel design interno.

Strumenti

Passo 1

Scollega e spegni il controller prima di iniziare.
Inserisci un plettro al di sotto del rivestimento centrale nell'angolo in basso a destra per rilasciare le clip che lo attaccano alla scocca.

Passo 2

Fai scorrere il plettro attraverso il bordo in basso a destra del rivestimento centrale per rilasciare le clip che lo attaccano alla scocca.

Passo 3

Inserisci un plettro sotto il rivestimento centrale nell'angolo in basso a sinistra per rilasciare le clip che lo attaccano alla scocca.

Passo 4

Fai scorrere il plettro attraverso il bordo in basso a sinistra del rivestimento centrale per rilasciare le clip che lo attaccano alla scocca.

Passo 5

Usa le dita per sollevare il bordo inferiore del rivestimento centrale per rilasciare le clip rimanenti.
Solleva il rivestimento centrale sopra i joystick per rimuoverlo.

Passo 6

Inserisci la parte piatta dello spudger all'interno della fessura sopra il pulsante L1.
Copri il pulsante con il pollice per evitare che salti via dall'altra parte della stanza.
Fai leva verso l'alto e rimuovi il pulsante L1.

Tried prying from the front of the buttons as pictured and my spudger broke off in the gap. A video I watched showed them being pried off from the back (between the R1/R2 and L1/L2 buttons) which seemed much easier.

Lora Singleton -

Agree with Lora's comment above. I was able to use an old credit card to take L1/R1 out this way. I pressed down the L2/R2 button to create space to work in, then came in from between L1/L2 and R1/R2. It's easy to pop one of the outer corners first then you can work the credit card around the top and the rest falls out.

darkstar448 -

Man, if I'd just read the thumb part...

caldugen -

Passo 7

Inserisci la parte piatta dello spudger all'interno della fessura sopra il pulsante R1.
Copri il pulsante con il pollice per evitare che salti via dall'altra parte della stanza.
Fai leva verso l'alto e rimuovi il pulsante R1.

to save a few bucks, the L1 and R1 buttons can be removed without the use of the spudger tool by using any thin prying tool and just pry the buttons from the bottom instead of the top

Alan Peng -

What I didn't see addressed anywhere (here or in other similar articles) is that replacement R1 / L1 buttons can be differ enough to be un-usable depending on which model your ps5 controller is. The ones I ordered don't fit and now I can't find a way to be sure I get the right ones because few know there's even a difference.

Walt Mather -

Did you already figured it out? The version the we need yo use?, We are in the same situation here.

Gerald Ross Rodriguez -

Lora Singleton -

Passo 8

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per svitare le due viti da 6,4 mm che tengono fermi gli angoli in basso della copertura inferiore.

Passo 9

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per svitare le due viti da 6,4 mm dietro i tasti L1 ed R1.

Passo 10

Usa la punta di uno spudger per rilasciare i due ganci su entrambi i lati della presa jack.

If these are similar in nature to the DS4’s clips, don’t use too much force so you don’t end up breaking them

Strings Cat -

there is a clip that holds the rear cover in place located in R1 and L1

Zargruzski nakamura -

Is there a clip in R1 and there's another in L1? Any way to see where exactly? The part of the back cover near L1 and R2 is that one that's not coming off. I can't seem to pull it off easily the way it looks in Step 11.

tofu -

For those wondering where the bumper clip is located, it's ~1cm inwards from the end of the back shell where the bumpers are. Take a spudger in that spot and lift it upwards carefully, it should disconnect the clips if they aren't already

Franz Rolfsvaag -

Passo 11

Rimuovi la copertura posteriore.
Su alcune versioni, il case posteriore è fissato con altre due clip vicino ai trigger precedentemente rimossi. Se il case posteriore non si apre senza forzature, verifica la presenza di queste clip.

There are four more clips/hooks hidden in the seams along the outer sides of the handles. If you pull open the controller as shown in this step, then you will shear off the two tiny clips which are right next to the R1 and L1 buttons.

Therefore, you should first release those clips by prying the seams open sideways.

I noticed this with the updated design of the controller, not sure whether the hooks are present on the first version.

The hooks are not critical for the integrity of the controller as the two halves are held together by the screws hidden under the buttons. The damage does show that the controller has been taken apart.

Nick -

Thought I'd clarify: The clips next to the L1 and R1 are on the outer side from the L1 and R1 buttons, I'd suggest zooming in on the picture to see them. They're quite easy to break, but also easy to remove using the plastic spudger along the seam, bending the bottom cover outwards

Franz Rolfsvaag -

I am still strugling to find the clips. Could someone point them out in the image with a screen shot or something like that.

aGingerThing -

I keep getting stuck at this step too with the new DualSense CFI-ZCT1WA revision. The top and bottom shells seem like they are fused together next to L1/R1 but I can't seem to be able to find where these hidden clips are located. My controller is still in warranty so I don't want to break them in case I can't fix my issue.

but also easy to remove using the plastic spudger along the seam, bending the bottom cover outwards

I tried this but it seems that the you need a lot of force and I ended up bending the tip of my spudger. Are you sure it's not the top cover that you need to pry away? The bottom cover has a ridge to make sure it's under the top cover so it's not easy to bend outwards.

@samomio I think there needs to be a step added for these new clips.

robplease -

Ok, not seeing a lot of motion on this request, so I've uploaded photos of the hooks to imgur.

Here ya go: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5

Sean Murphy -

Life save Sean. Appreciate the image.

Vili -

This guide really needs an update on this. I had a really hard time getting the forward clips to release even after referring to the comments above. Pretty sure I broke them in the end. No big deal but would be great if the iFixit experts could work out a good method for releasing them.

Marcus Harvey -

I finally figure it out!!

The hidden clip is very tricky but once you understand how it works it is easy to remove.

Use Sean's picture: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5

What sean is showing, is actually the bottom shell of the seam.

To disassemble

1. Use the flat side of the spudger, pry the bottom seam OUTWARDS near the R1/L1 button hole.

2. (most important) While prying the bottom shell seam outwards, push your thumb on the upper shell and push outward as well (you can do this by applying pressure from the removed R1/L1 button hole towards the seam. And then it will disassemble automatically

And that's it!

Penn - 27/01/24

updated instruction:

I finally figure it out!!

The hidden clip is very tricky but once you understand how it works it is easy to remove.

Use Sean's picture: https://imgur.io/a/7NWmQi5

What sean is showing, is actually the bottom shell of the seam.

To disassemble

1. Use the flat side of the spudger, pry the bottom seam OUTWARDS near the R1/L1 button hole.

2. (most important) While prying the bottom shell seam outwards, hold your thumb on the upper shell as anchor and then use your other finger to pry the bottom edge of the controller up away from the shell. If you are doing the first step, then don't worry about breaking the clip, just force it open. And then it will disassemble automatically

And that's it!

Penn -

I managed to do it just by pulling harder than what I was already doing. And I don't think I broke anything. So, for me at least, the technique described in this guide worked.

Riedweg Guillaume -

Passo 12

Usa un paio di pinzette o le tue dita per scollegare la batteria dalla scheda madre.
Fai presa sul connettore, non sui fili, mentre lo stai scollegando.

Tweezers aren't gonna grip that the way you need.

Leif DeWolf -

For those having trouble using tweezers to pull out the connector, you can grab below the lip of the connector and use the controller as a lever to pull it up as seen here DualSense Controller v2 Battery Replacement

This little trick helped me so much and I believe it should be shown on this guide as well.

Ezra Worthington -

Tweezers is too weak for this. I use my finger nails after removing the battery from the slot, straighten the cable lines and slowly wiggle it out.

Penn -

Passo 13

Solleva la batteria dal suo supporto.

Passo 14

Prendi la linguetta del cavo a nastro del microfono inferiore con le dita o un paio di pinzette e scollegalo dalla scheda madre.

These ribbon cables have small tabs on either side you can use to help pull out the cable. You can slightly pull up, alternating between the two sides, to slowly wiggle the connector out.

Tran Anh Nguyen -

Might be a rookie mistake, but DO NOT REMOVE THE WHITE BRACKETS, only the ribbon! If you do, you’ll have an awful time putting it back and will most likely mess it up. Yes I did.

Joris D -

Passo 15

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per svitare la vite da 6,4 mm che tiene fermo il supporto della batteria.

Passo 16

Solleva e rimuovi il supporto della batteria dalla scheda madre.

Black and red wires fit neatly under the lower left and lower right arms of the battery bracket, to avoid potential damage when reconnecting the rear case.

Sean Gonzales -

This needs to be noted. Thanks!

Nick Gatti -

Passo 17

Prendi l'aletta del cavo a nastro del gruppo del grilletto destro con un paio di pinzette o le dita e tira verso l'alto per scollegarlo dalla scheda madre.
Non rimuovere ancora del tutto il cavo flessibile.

Passo 18

Prendi l'aletta del cavo a nastro del gruppo del grilletto destro con un paio di pinzette o le dita e tira verso l'alto per scollegarlo dal gruppo del grilletto.
Rimuovi il cavo a nastro.

Passo 19

Prendi l'aletta del cavo a nastro del gruppo del grilletto sinistro con un paio di pinzette o le dita e tira verso l'alto per scollegarlo dalla scheda madre.
Non rimuovere ancora del tutto il cavo flessibile.

Passo 20

Prendi l'aletta del cavo a nastro del gruppo del grilletto sinistro con un paio di pinzette o le dita e tira verso l'alto per scollegarlo dal gruppo del grilletto.
Rimuovi il cavo a nastro.

Passo 21

Usa un paio di pinzette o le dita per prendere la linguetta del cavo a nastro del microfono superiore e tirala verso l'alto per scollegarlo dalla scheda madre.

what is the white thing soldered to the motherboard called where the mic ribbon cable plugs and where can i find the part?

Abhi K - 03/01/23

Passo 22

Usa un paio di pinzette o le dita per prendere la linguetta del cavo a nastro del touchpad e tirala verso l'alto per scollegarlo dal connettore sulla scheda madre.

Passo 23

Fai passare delicatamente le levette analogiche attraverso la copertura anteriore e solleva la scheda madre.
Non rimuovere del tutto la scheda madre. Ci sono quattro cavi saldati che collegano la scheda madre ai motori della vibrazione.

Pushing on the joysticks makes this much easier.

zidek22 -

My motherboard wouldn't just lift right out. So I noticed there's also a pair of barely visible small black clips, one on each side of the motherboard, holding it down. One is right beside the battery connector and the other's directly across on the opposite side of the motherboard right beside the ribbon cable connector.

Jason Mulholland -

Such a good observation!

zidek22 -

Just push on the sticks. Pops out like a charm, zero effort.

Italian Retro Guy -

Passo 24

Utilizza un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere due viti da 8,5 mm che fissano la guida luminosa.

Mine didn't have this piece

John -

Passo 25

Utilizza un paio di pinzette o le tue dita per rimuovere il supporto della guida luminosa.

Passo 26

Utilizza un paio di pinzette o le tue dita per rimuovere la guida luminosa.

Where do i buy a new light guide?

Jasper Nuyts -

Passo 27

Utilizza un paio di pinzette per rimuovere l'altoparlante dal telaio intermedio.
Assicurati di reinstallare l'altoparlante nel giusto verso con il pad in schiuma a sinistra e i punti di contatto d'oro a destra.

Speaker may be attached to the motherboard via the foam pad.

Daniel Geppert - 24/05/21

Passo 28

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le due viti da 6,4 mm che fissano il telaio centrale al case frontale

Passo 29

Solleva con cautela il telaio centrale e la scheda madre verso l'alto e fuori dal case anteriore.
Fai attenzione a non tirare i cavi del motore della vibrazione.
Durante il rimontaggio, fai passare il cavo a nastro del touchpad attraverso la sua apertura rettangolare nella struttura centrale.

Feed the ribbon cable back through the rectangular slot in the midframe during reassembly.

Sean Gonzales -

Thank you for catching this!

Sam Omiotek -

Passo 30

Gira sottosopra la scheda madre e la struttura centrale.
Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le quattro viti da 6,4 mm che fissano i gruppi dei tasti posteriori alla struttura centrale.
Se solo un gruppo dei tasti posteriori necessita di essere sostituito, rimuovi le viti solo di quello.

My controller doesn’t have these screws. Any idea how to release the trigger assemblies from the midframe?

GreenPlaidJackets -

Passo 31

Con cura capovolgi la struttura centrale e la scheda madre.
I gruppi dei tasti posteriori non sono bloccati e potrebbero cadere.
Rimuovi i gruppi dei tasti posteriori.

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui i passi precedenti nell'ordine inverso.

Porta il tuo rifiuto elettronico in un centro di smaltimento autorizzato R2 o e-Stewards.

La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova delle [[Troubleshooting Problems After a

Repair|soluzioni ai problemi di base|new_window=true]], o prova a chiedere alla comunità Risposte per dell'aiuto.

Autore

Sam Omiotek

Membro da: 25/02/19

71915 Reputazione

19 commenti

So after I completed this my L1 stopped working how do I fix that? Lol the L2 R1 and R2 work fine

Chris Doyle -

i know this is pretty long after you posted but could you tell me where you found the spare part?

Christos -

Ali express has everything since after warranty sony won't even look at your machine. Even for profit. Usbc port on the controller has no strength and I've had 2 go and that was from gentle use when I only had one controller then the second one did it so I had to buy 2 at once.

Joey Strong -

How do I find these parts? I’ve looked online for ps5 trigger assemblies and I can’t find them.

Avonlea -

hello. did you find the trigger spare part assemblies? I am also looking for it but unfortunately couldn't find them yet.

Sezer Metin -

ps5 adaptive trigger replacement

kasynlife -

Also looking for the trigger assembly part, would assume since the author made a guide on how to replace they would know where to get the parts? Would appreciate a response from the author

Joshua Jewison -

hello. If you found the spare trigger asm. parts, can you also advice me? I am also searching but couldn't find them yet.

Sezer Metin - 30/08/22

***I dont know if u are still looking for the triggers. I fond this: https://www.nevs-controller.de/ps5/adapt...

Janis Kaiser -

Dear Sam Omiotek, I really appreciate your explanation, it's really usefull. If you also know where can we find spare parts, can you please let us know? Thanks in advance

Sezer Metin -

found this: https://www.nevs-controller.de/ps5/adapt...

Janis Kaiser -

My dog chewed up one of my PS5 controllers and the L2 trigger was jammed. With the help of this brilliant guide, and an electronics essentials kit, I disassembled the controller and filed down the chewed up sections. Now my controller is good as new and my girlfriend can continue playing Hogwarts Legacy. Thank you ifixit!

Snookeroo -

My controller is completely diffrent from these toutorials im seeing, i live in sweden is there a diference in the controller makings? Or has the latest gen of controllers changed since i this post was made

Zippiach -

Alright its a new gen controller and the FCC ends with a A, is there no new tutorial for the controllers and i havent found any screws on the triggers that lets me disassemble the trigger. I think im &&^&@@.

Zippiach -

What do you do if the R2 trigger is jammed? I noticed that I broke the assembly cable of my R2 trigger and ordered one soon. I took out my broken cable but it's still registering that I'm pressing it. Need help on this one, Thank you so much!

Es Pangatlo -

I never would have thought to remove the L1 and R1 to get to the screws. Thank you!

chazdevereaux -

I'm going to connect my logic analyzer to the usbc port so we can identify the pins that actually use data because there's no way it's using the full spec for data transfer for firmware. After certain updates your controller is a paperweight. I've repaired a few now and half of them have torn traces because like the hdmi port there isn't enough inherent mechanical strength like a traditional serial controller port. Funny how it's been the same 2 wire data protocol for 50 years yet the usb ports since they went from mini to micro breaks if you look at it. I install mini USB wherever I can.

Joey Strong -

I completed the replacement of the trigger assembly, but r2 does not register at all and r1 is constantly on. Tried with three different units and known good ribbon cables. Also tried in known good board and get the same issue. Any advice?

Mattrz Novak - 04/07/23

On the R2 button, check that the flexible cable has not been damaged. If it is, you will need a new flexible cable. Does the L2 button work? The solution might be that the flexible cable has not been properly inserted and is not sending input to the L2 and R2 buttons. As for the R1 button, check that the button has not been damaged; it's a possible explanation for why it remains pressed. Try cleaning the R1 button thoroughly, dirt and debris could be the cause trapping the button and preventing it from releasing. Let me know if you have resolved the issue.

Massimiliano Stefania -