Sostituzione altoparlante iPhone 6s Plus

Passo 1

Inserisci uno strumento di estrazione SIM nel foro nel vassoio della scheda SIM.
Premi per espellere la SIM.

Passo 2

Rimuovi il vassoio della scheda SIM.
Quando reinserisci la scheda SIM, accertati che sia orientata in modo che il foro di espulsione della SIM si trovi in basso.

Passo 3

Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere se viene perforata accidentalmente.
Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.
Rimuovi le due viti Pentalobe P2 da 3,4 mm sul lato inferiore dell'iPhone, vicino al connettore Lightning.

Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

Miguel Perez - 30/12/17

If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?

I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.

Ganqian Zhu - 02/01/18

iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.

Jeff Suovanen - 08/01/18

Salve nella procedura iniziale di smontaggio display con la ventosa non è menzionato il fatto di scaldare i lati del display per “ammorbidire” la striscia che incolla il display alla scocca.

Non è necessaria la cosa o è consigliabile ?

grazie

Hello, in the initial disassembling procedure with the suction cup, it is not mentioned how to heat the sides of the display to "soften" the strip that glues the display to the body.

Is not the thing necessary or is it advisable?

thank you

Daniele - 17/03/18

You’ve probably received your answer by now but for future enquirers, it does help the process of taking the screen off if heat is applied to the screen. If you have a hair Dryer use that on a low setting to heat the edges of the screen until it’s almost too hot to touch then slip very thin metal spudger around the edge to cut the adhesive. The carefully lift the screen with the help of the spudger and continue with your repair

Cheers Wayne

Wayne Lyell - 01/05/19

How do I know that the Battery has ZERO Charging Cycles on it when it arrives ? Is there a (downside) to Higher Capacity batteries ? It is INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to maintain a “Zero Chinese Products Lifestyle”, so how do I know that I’m not getting a deficient Chinese battery, potentially a refurb. battery ?

integritybuilders - 18/03/18

When your repair is complete, you can use coconutBattery to check your new battery stats and cycle count. (A properly tested battery may already have a charge cycle or two on it.) Avoid higher capacity batteries on iPhones—they’re generally either gimmicks, unsafe, or both. As far as the quality of the part, that comes down to how much you trust your supplier and whether they guarantee the product.

Jeff Suovanen - 19/03/18

So I need to empty the battery to zero percent?

johnpatrickanat - 08/04/19

Below 25%, exactly as stated in the instructions. There’s no benefit to draining it further than that, and in fact you’ll slightly shorten the service life of the battery by draining it all the way to zero. Follow the instructions exactly as written—if you go off-script, you’re a lot more likely to break something.

Jeff Suovanen - 08/04/19

So my screen shattered completely and the screen first had colored lines on tge while right side then it went out completely. If i get an lcd and digitizer replacement I'd that oing to fix it

shellietheleo - 04/07/19

I would initially recommend a well-lit, comfortable area and placing the screws on a white piece of paper with the screw sizes written down (apparently there are magnetic mats, also). Also, I found placing the phone on a paper towel is good so that if a screw is dropped, it will lessen the likelihood of bouncing away.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

I recommend that, before you even lift a screwdriver or plug in the hair dryer, get a piece of paper and a pencil. As you unscrew and remove the parts, write the size and/or number for that step and put them by their label. I also used a microscope to identify the screw heads (I'm 75 and my vision is not what it used to be). Laying them out in order, I just went backwards when putting them all back in. I used an anti-static cleaning cloth instead of paper, but I should think they both will work.

N.B.: my kit had a nice pretty blue plastic sheet with a black outline on it. It was only when I put the whole phone back together and was packing up the supplies and tools that I realized it was a replacement gummi seal. A LABEL WOULD BE VERY USEFUL HERE!

I am a retired engineer, and aside from the size of the bits and bobs, it was a piece of cake! Thanks...you saved me $75!

P. Roberts -

Passo 4

I prossimi due passi illustrano l'uso dell'Anti-Clamp, un attrezzo che abbiamo progettato per rendere più facile la procedura di apertura. Se non usi l'Anti-Clamp, vai tre passi avanti per un metodo alternativo.
Per le istruzioni complete su come usare l'Anti-Clamp, da' un'occhiata a questa guida.
Tira la manopola blu verso la cerniera per sbloccare i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.
Fai scorrere le braccia o sul bordo sinistro o su quello destro del tuo iPhone.
Posiziona le ventose sullo schermo, subito sopra il tasto Home, una davanti e una sul retro.
Premi le ventose così che facciano presa sull'area desiderata.
Se ti accorgi che la superficie del dispositivo è troppo scivolosa perché l'Anti-Clamp faccia presa, puoi usare del nastro adesivo da pacchi per creare una superficie più aderente.

I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

fiftysomething - 13/01/18

WORKED PERFECTLY… easy, no harm at all…. thanks a lot

carlos restrepo - 12/09/20

Passo 5

Allontana la manopola blu dalla cerniera per bloccare le braccia
Ruota la manopola in senso orario di 360 gradi o finché vedi che la ventosa comincia ad allungarsi.
Accertati che le ventose rimangano allineate l'una all'altra. Se scivolano e si sfalsano, allenta leggermente le ventose e riallinea i bracci.
Aspetta un minuto per dare la possibilità all'adesivo di lasciarsi andare e alla parte inferiore dello schermo di aprirsi.
Se l'Anti-Clamp non crea una fessura abbastanza ampia, applica più calore sull'area e ruota la manopola di mezzo giro in senso orario.
Non ruotare la manopola per più di mezzo giro alla volta, e aspetta un minuto fra ogni rotazione. Lascia che l'Anti-Clamp e il tempo lavorino al tuo posto.
Salta i prossimi tre passi.

Passo 6

Se non disponi di un Anti-Clamp, segui i prossimi tre passaggi per utilizzare una maniglia a ventosa.
Applica del calore moderato sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone utilizzando un iOpener o un asciugacapelli per circa un minuto.
Il calore ammorbidisce l'adesivo che fissa il display, rendendolo più facile da aprire.

This is important. I’ve serviced a lot of iphones/ipads for my family as a hobby in the past.

The adhesive was so tight, I cracked the screen trying to pull it/pry it off.

I highly suggest heating at least the bottom edge enough to soften the adhesive

garbage911garbage - 29/04/19

I didn’t have an iOpener, nor a heat gun; however I do have a small personal size hand pillow filled with feed corn. Two minutes in the nuke machine got it plenty warm, and smelled like fresh popcorn too.

bradiac - 22/06/19

I would suggest that you are not shy with the hairdryer. A high heat on the bottom of the phone for at least a minute, if not more, if required.

Mark Taberham - 20/02/21

Passo 7

Con l'apertura del display del 6s Plus, si staccherà una sottile striscia di adesivo attorno al perimetro dello schermo. Se preferisci sostituire l'adesivo, tieni pronte delle nuove strisce adesive prima di continuare. È possibile completare la riparazione senza sostituire l'adesivo e probabilmente non noterai alcuna differenza nella funzionalità.
Applica una ventosa nell'angolo inferiore sinistro del gruppo display.
Se il tuo schermo ha molte crepe, coprirlo con uno strato di nastro adesivo può consentire alla ventosa di aderire. In alternativa alla ventosa può essere usato un nastro adesivo molto resistente. Se anche così non funziona, puoi usare della supercolla (cianoacrilica) per incollare la ventosa al vetro rotto.

take out screws first!!

Yoav Karmon - 15/04/17

Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

Miguel Perez - 30/12/17

My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

Jim Cowles - 17/01/18

I broke my iphone screen in the first step!

Pierre Bertram - 06/10/19

This screen removal step got more wrestley than I anticipated. The adhesive is quite strong. I used a flat-ended razor tool that I have to begin the prying - I don’t know how I would have got it started without this.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

Ok - just got my battery replacement kit and even got the opening kit for added insurance just in case. Settled down to startwork after carefully cleaning my (immaculate) screen - no scratches or anything, with rubbing alcohol, removing screws and warming with a hair dryer, only to find the suction cup provided in the kit is worse than useless! It won’t stick to the screen well at all. When it does - it pops off at the lightest pull :-( Now what do I do to get this started?!

CoffeeCup -

Passo 8

Tira la ventosa con una pressione forte e costante per creare una piccola fessura tra il pannello anteriore e il case posteriore.
Tirare troppo forte potrebbe danneggiare il gruppo display. Applica una pressione appena sufficiente a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo display e il case posteriore.

I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

John Architzel - 23/06/17

A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

djwooten - 11/07/17

I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

jkanne - 09/09/17

This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

Julie Sanchez - 27/12/17

Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.

bartmistrot - 13/01/18

I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.

Jason Augustyn - 22/01/18

I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.

Brent - 14/03/18

If you try to use the spunger near the home button and try to pry it can crack your screen. This happened to me.

Jeffrey - 22/11/18

Same thing happened to me. This should be a big warning in these steps. If you have a small to moderate crack in you screen, but you weren’t planning on replacing the screen at the same time as another repair inside, there’s a risk of damaging the screen further and making it inoperable.

DW7ACCT -

I found it easiest to use two suction cups. One on the front as directed, and a second one on the back. Give the spudger to your assistant, and have them slip it in place while you pull the display from the case.

gordojenkins - 07/07/19

I gave up with the suction cup as it wasn't working for me with a cracked screen. Having heated the bottom of the phone with a hair dryer with a high heat for a good minute or so, I used a safety scraper (essentially a razor blade in a holder) along the bottom of the phone to separate the screen from the body of the phone. I used the scraper vertically between the bottom of the screen and the phone body and levered it sufficiently so that I could fit the spudger between the screen and the phone body. My experience when I first used the spudger around the frame was that the cracks in the screen caused the screen glass to separate from the frame, so I had to re-do it and ensure that the screen frame was separated from the phone body.

Safety scraper:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Unger-CD170-Win...

Mark Taberham - 20/02/21

Passo 9

Il posto più sicuro da dove cominciare a far leva è l'intaglio nel pannello anteriore sopra il jack cuffie.
Mentre continui a tenere tirata la ventosa, inserisci la punta piatta di uno spudger nella fessura tra lo schermo e il case posteriore, direttamente al di sopra del jack cuffie.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

drpotter - 12/07/17

When warmed, the suction cup was useless. Using the tip of a knife blade, was able to get it separated enough to insert spudger.

hutland - 09/02/20

For me this was the most time consuming task. I used a hair dryer for heating. I found a very tight adhesive. For a moment I thought of abandoning my efforts and take the assembly to a professional repairman. But as they say, patience is a virtue.

After fiddling for about 20 minutes, I achieved a barely noticable opening. So I decided to change the strategy. Instead of applying heat all over the base, I preceeded with small steps with heat concentrated near the opening. I applied intense heat only for about 15 to 20 seconds and immediately working with spudger. It took about an hour to completely open the case. It worked.

Thanks for reading.

- Mr Gamma

Gamma Pailvan -

I also struggled with this step. Lots of heat, 3 different suction cups, I finally could see a small gap... much too thin to fit even a piece of paper into. A video on another site said it was the easy way. I used a sharp craft knife barely into the seam between metal and glass and pried slightly. And it started up. Still a pain freeing the rest of the adhesive. Perhaps the adhesive really sets up over the course of 5 years? I have it hinged open now, so onto the next steps.

Mark Tollefson -

Passo 10

Fai ruotare lo spudger per allargare l'apertura tra il pannello frontale e il case posteriore.

just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

Bart Blanckaert - 13/03/18

Passo 11

Mentre continui a tirare saldamente la ventosa, fai scorrere l'estremità dello spudger sotto il lato inferiore sinistro del display.

Passo 12

Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato sinistro del telefono, tra il pannello frontale e il case posteriore.

Passo 13

Inserisci la punta piatta di uno spudger sotto il lato destro del telefono.
Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato destro.

Passo 14

Usa una leva di apertura in plastica per tenere giù il case posteriore mentre tiri la ventosa per aprire il telefono.
Non rimuovere completamente il display per non danneggiare i cavi dati che collegano lo schermo alla parte superiore dell'iPhone.

Passo 15

Tira la sporgenza sul lato superiore per rimuovere la ventosa dal pannello anteriore.

Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.

Won Hong - 07/01/18

There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.

Jeff Suovanen - 08/01/18

Passo 16

Afferra con delicatezza il gruppo display e sollevalo verso l'alto per aprire il telefono, usando le clip nella parte alta del pannello anteriore come una cerniera.
Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e appoggialo contro qualche cosa per tenerlo sollevato mentre tu lavori sul telefono.
Non aprire il display oltre 90°: è ancora connesso alla parte alta del telefono dai cavi del display, del digitizer e della fotocamera anteriore.
Usa un elastico per tenere il display in una posizione sicura mentre lavori. In questo modo eviterai di forzare i cavi del display.
In caso di necessità, puoi usare la lattina di una bibita ancora chiusa per tenere sollevato il display.

if the display cables are damaged how can you tell ?

Smiley McSmilebot - 22/01/20

In theory, I like the idea of propping up the screen with a rubber band and box/soda can like this, but after ripping the FaceTime camera cable twice, I realize that this method puts too much stress on the cable because it places the screen so far back. Even in this photo, you can see that the cable is taut. I’d recommend just holding the screen with your free hand to put the least amount of stress on that cable as possible.

Ben Estabrook -

Passo 17

Rimuovi le due viti Phillips che fissano la staffa del connettore della batteria alla scheda logica:
Una vite da 2,9 mm
Una vite da 2,3 mm
Nell'esecuzione dei passi di questa guida, tieni nota attentamente delle due viti in modo che ognuna di esse sia riposizionata al suo posto in fase di rimontaggio. Una vite installata nel posto sbagliato può causare danni permanenti al dispositivo.

FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

Julie Sanchez - 27/12/17

Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

Joe Teichert - 04/03/18

PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

Benjamin Stalcup - 07/03/18

For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you

Jack Daniel - 18/03/18

Do not lose track of which hole these screws go into. They MUST be put back into the correct hole that they came out of. If not, you will get the dreaded “long screw damage” on the mainboard, and that will be the end of the show.

Just remember where these screws go, and it will be fine.

Harry McDow - 25/04/19

Ended up employing a Philips #0 from a regular jeweler/precision kit on the 2.3mm screw. Bits seem a bit off for this step.

Vance Bell - 17/04/20

Passo 18

Rimuovi la staffa del connettore della batteria.

Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

Coupon Crazy - 01/06/18

Auch die Abdeckung ist angeklebt. Also mit etwas Vorsicht und Geduld rangehen.

eckhardd@icloud.com - 17/12/20

If you have forgotten your High School German -

The cover is also glued. So take some care and patience.

Glen Paetz - 31/03/21

My bracket actually has a black wire connected on the underside that is attached to the metal bracket (with screw) below it in the picture. I decided to leave it on and just move it to the side.

Victor Ng-Thow-Hing -

Passo 19

Usa uno spudger o un'unghia pulita per scollegare, sollevandolo verso l'alto, il connettore della batteria dalla scheda logica.

Passo 20

Spingi indietro il connettore della batteria per evitare il rischio di contatto e quindi di alimentare l'iPhone mentre ci lavori.

When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

Won Hong - 07/01/18

There was some black goop/glue around the battery connector, and when I lifted the old connector, some of that glue fell into the receptacle. It was easy to fish out (with magnifying glass and tweezers) but if you don't catch it, you may not get a good connection.

Steerpike -

Passo 21

Rimuovi le seguenti viti a croce Phillips:
Tre viti da 1,3 mm
Una vite da 1,6 mm
Una vite da 3,0 mm
In fase di rimontaggio, è fondamentale rimettere questa vite da 3,0 mm nell'angolo superiore destro della staffa. Scambiarla di posto con un'altra potrebbe danneggiare la scheda logica.

I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

John Parker - 16/03/17

I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

Thor - 22/07/17

I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

Michael Gross - 03/10/17

To keep track of screws, draw a quick outline of the display cable bracket/cover, with five dots where screws should be. Drop the screws on the corresponding dot. Helps if you use magnet pad.

Christa - 23/06/18

Better yet, print out the pictures from the iFixit website, and use clear tape (“Scotch tape”) to TAPE the screws onto the place in the picture where they belong.

Tom - 28/08/18

Which screwdriver from the kit do I use for which screw?

Shiva Sharma - 14/07/18

I made a mistake and unscrewed the screw just north north west of the one circled in yellow. Of course I lost the screw. Can anyone give me any guidance about this? what does the wire connected to it do? What is the size of the screw, in case I have to replace it?

P.S. This is another reason to consider the possibility of NOT removing the screen just to replace the battery: removing the screen presents a additional possible headache, especially for people like me with bad eyesight who probably shouldn’t be doing this in the first place.

Tom - 28/08/18

It is a 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the NFC bracket in place.

Larry Lynch -

I didn’t think this was necessary, bit I see it relieves stress on the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector; I did not disconnect the display connector nor remove the display screen.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

I second this finding. I too did not remove the screws nor the bracket. The cables look a bit stretched, but certainly not strained.

-Gamma

Gamma Pailvan -

This step of separating the two parts of the phone deserves careful consideration. In my case, I had propped up the display assembly with a box and rubber bands. However, only 2 of the battery adhesive strips came off easily. The effort to remove the battery with the display assembly attached was not a good move on my part. I jarred the ear speaker cable and after reassembly I had no camera or working ear speaker. Taking off these 5 screws and removing the three cables is not difficult. My suggestion: is you have ANY trouble removing the 3 battery adhesive strips, STOP, separate the two components, and then continue with the battery removal. Don’t struggle removing the battery with the display assembly attached. (I replaced the ear speaker cable, and all is working now)

Richard Perl - 15/02/20

Thanks for this tip! I am having a really hard time removing this plate because one of the screw heads are stripped. So I’ll try removing the battery adhesive strips first to see if I can get the battery out without removing the screen.

nathanfunk - 27/06/20

Use dixie cups and label them for each part you take out. You can stack the dixie cups to keep them in order.

Bradley Nolen - 26/06/20

I skipped this for the battery removal, but when I went to replace the seal, I had to remove it anyway.

dgol69 -

I lost the bottom left screw of the five in this step - anyone know if it’sgoing to cause a problem? ‘m going to go ahead and put thephone back together anyway - wil report back withresult

CoffeeCup -

OMG…. SO excited! It works! Seems that missing screw wasn’t an issue. The reason I’m so excited is, I’m a senior and have bever attempted anything like this before and was worried I’d mess it up, or it just wouuldn’t work for whatever reason. I know I never would have tried if it weren’t for finding this site, the great service, parts to do it and the videos/guides. Thank you so much ifixit. :-)

CoffeeCup -

I changed the battery, without removing the screen, when I closed the phone the front camera and speaker no longer work.

Mr T -

Passo 22

Rimuovi la staffa del cavo del display.

Be careful on this step: with my iPhone, one of the connectors (the home button/fingerprint sensor) was stuck to the underside of the bracket and I almost strained its cable.

kevin - 15/02/21

Passo 23

Fai attenzione a far leva solo sul connettore e non sullo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per staccare il connettore del cavo della fotocamera anteriore e del sensore.

FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

Julie Sanchez - 27/12/17

I found prying from the right to be better

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

Is there any need for this step if only the Battery is replaced

mrrreid - 29/04/20

I don’t recommend using the spudger for this as you can do more damage that way. I scratched the black square thing underneath.

Laura Houghton - 05/08/20

I managed to remove the battery without disconnecting and removing the display first. This avoids possible difficulties in these steps (see below).

One has to be careful that, while fighting with the battery strips, the display remains in its 90º position

alfasw33 - 22/03/21

Passo 24

Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per disconnettere il cavo del digitizer facendo leva verso l'alto dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
Quando devi riattaccare il cavo del digitizer, non premere nel centro del connettore. Premi da un lato e poi dall'altro. Premendo nel centro del connettore, si può inavvertitamente piegare questo elemento e causare danni al digitizer.

Thanks you i fix it

God Hand - 28/10/17

“When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. “

The following note above was so helpful. I was speeding through the process of getting things back together, since it seemed easy to connect the digitizer cable, but I kept pushing it in the middle and I wouldn’t connect. Until I read through this step and realized it was easier if I would’ve connected one side and then the opposite side right after.

Jeffrey Robinos - 28/09/18

Don’t be too shy when pushing the ends of the digitizer connector back to place. If it does not connect properly, you might face the “half backlight” problem, even if you did not kill any LCD filter. Also check carefully, that you don’t clamp parts of the sticky sealing material placed around the connector inside the connection area.

Norbert Andreas Richartz - 16/11/18

This part was a very frustrating experience for me. I thought that my replacement screen was just poor quality, as it worked when it wanted to work. Pressing home/power repeatedly sometimes brought it back, charging to 100% also brought it back. The actual problem was that it is very easy to get some of the gasket material caught in the connector, which I couldn’t see until I used my jeweler's loupe. I used 91% alcohol to carefully clean all of this off until all pins were shiny, and it took about 6 tries to get it right. However, the screen’s been running well for 2 days now. I already bought another screen replacement which I have for a spare as it was 100% not the problem.

chumblyf - 06/05/20

I followed all the steps, so the sound is missed. What could be happened? thanks a lot. Fabio Balbino

Fabio Balbino - 17/06/20

Passo 25

Accertati che la batteria sia scollegata prima di disconnettere o riconnettere il cavo nel corso di questo passo.
Scollega il cavo del tasto home/sensore delle impronte facendo leva verso l'alto dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

How much is this to replace?

Alistair knight - 18/02/17

And where could I buy from?

Alistair knight - 18/02/17

You can buy these at iFixit: iPhone 6s LCD and Digitizer - Original LCD

drgon - 23/02/17

After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.

Bryan Province - 05/10/17

Thanks for the tip. Same thing happened to me, some leftover adhesive was in the way!

Sean - Lua Tech -

Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.

Brent - 14/03/18

Be very careful in this step. I noticed it’s very easy to tear the flex when trying to lift it out of its socket from the right side.

shoeib - 18/03/18

What is the cable and how is it connected/fixed to the motherboard between the bottom socket and the screw hole.

Mine came loose somehow?

Jason Engelsman - 16/07/18

I figured out my own question its the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable. But how is it connected/secured to the motherboard?

Jason Engelsman - 16/07/18

i pressed on the center of the digitizer connection. and the bottom half of my screen didnt work. i then took that same front panel assembly and tried to install it on another old iphone 6s+ and i had the same issue.

can i still fix it?

what exactly is broken now?

alejandro rueda - 28/01/19

@mynameisoli Honestly this just sounds like a defective screen to me, but it’s hard to say for sure. Look closely at the connector at the end of the ribbon cable and check it for damage. If it’s slightly bent/curved, all the pins won’t make good contact in the socket. You can try bending it back so it lays flat, but you have to be very careful not to damage the connector or contaminate the pins with skin oils, so it’s tricky—and it may be harder to return as “defective” if you mess up the connector. So try this at your own risk. Apart from that, I would just return it and try a different display. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 29/01/19

The 6s plus screen repair kit i bought has the wrong size cable here on the replacement part. SOL.

Alex Richardson - 07/03/20

Once I accidentally disconnected the display assembly cables before disconnecting the battery. Now the home button and fingerprint sensor doesn’t work. Any solution to this?? I have tried a different home button, even that doesn’t work.

a3roar - 06/06/20

I changed the battery on my iPhone and put all together again and charged it. When I pressed the home button the lock screen with my picture appeared and when I pressed it again the screen with the digits from 0 to 9 appeared. I was asked to enter my passcode, but when I did that nothing happened, the phone did not open.

What could be wrong? Is the home screen cable not fully connected or what could be the reason for this?

THORDUR JOHANNESSON -

Passo 26

Rimuovi il gruppo display.
In fase di rimontaggio, fermati qui se vuoi sostituire l'adesivo attorno ai bordi del display.

For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

Sostituzione gruppo pulsante home dell'iPhone 6s Plus

Superior Office Systems - 05/12/17

Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?

Christa - 29/01/18

@kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.

Jeff Suovanen - 30/01/18

If you have a replacement adhesive for the display, you may need to install it before reconnecting cables to the components. If the adhesive wraps all the way around the display, it will be impossible to install it once the display is reconnected.

Matthew Olwell - 16/04/19

These instructions worked great for me. Thank you!

Chris Enloe - 21/05/19

Passo 27

Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare e disconnettere il cavo di antenna dalla parte inferiore della scheda logica.

Passo 28

Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare e scollegare dalla scheda logica il cavo del connettore Lightning.

Needs to say that you need to peel back to connector cable from the speaker. I tore the cable underneath the speaker. Step 32 shows it pulled back, but I didn't notice. Step 33, where I tore it, shows it folded onto the speaker, which is why I tore it.

RHMcLean -

Passo 29

Rimuovi le tre viti a croce Phillips che bloccano la staffa del connettore Lightning:
Due viti da 3,5 mm
Una vite da 2,7 mm
Rimuovi la staffa.

Passo 30

Con l'estremità a punta di uno spudger, solleva e disconnetti il cavo di antenna dal gruppo del connettore Lightning.

Passo 31

Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per staccare e scollegare il cavo di antenna dalla parte superiore della scheda logica.

I did not remove the antenna cable from the board because it does not necessary.

István Borsányi - 16/05/20

We were not able to remove the cable, despite following the tips; it meant that the speaker unit was tethered to the phone during repair, which is not ideal, but we took care of it and all went well.

Matthew Dearden -

Passo 32

Solleva con cautela il cavo di antenna e sfilalo dal bordo del telefono. Usa la punta di uno spudger per aiutarti a liberare il cavo dalle clip di fissaggio.
Se il cavo non ha abbastanza spazio per essere sollevato, allenta questa vite a croce Phillips che fissa la scheda logica in modo che la scheda stessa abbia più gioco.
Ricordati di riavvitare questa vite in fase di rimontaggio.
Se il cavo si impiglia vicino al lettore SIM, è probabile che si sia incastrato nel meccanismo di espulsione del vassoio SIM. Usa la punta di uno spudger per far scorrere il bastoncino di plastica fuori dal percorso.
Nel corso del rimontaggio, assicurati di far passare il cavo dell'antenna sotto l'angolo della scheda logica.
Nel corso del rimontaggio, puoi anche provare a reinserire il vassoio della scheda SIM dopo aver infilato di nuovo il cavo di antenna.
Se senti una qualsiasi resistenza, fermati e accertati che il vassoio non stia interferendo con il cavo di antenna.

I didn’t need to do this step to remove the lightening charge port. In later steps I just put the speaker to the side with the cable attached. I also didn’t take the display off. I just left it at 90 degrees, attached to the iPhone box; like picture early. It made it much easier.

Joel Sarmiento - 24/09/19

I did not remove the antenna cable from the board because it does not necessary.

István Borsányi - 16/05/20

it also appears there is something under the sim tray keeping the antenna cable trapped and unable to remove all the way. luckily you dont need to remove it all the way to preform the repair.

penguin2fish4rain -

Passo 33

Rimuovi le sei viti a croce Phillips che fissano l'altoparlante al case posteriore:
Una vite da 2,5 mm
Due viti da 2,7 mm
Una vite da 1,5 mm
Una vite da 1,7 mm
Una vite da 2,6 mm che fissa l'altoparlante al bordo inferiore della cover posteriore.

Still working on it but I am not having any success getting the 2.6mm screw back in now 1+ hour into it.

colfax80 - 07/04/19

The blue one is the hard part to assembly back.

István Borsányi - 16/05/20

Do not pry-off the antenna from the speaker module!

István Borsányi - 16/05/20

Missing the Blue Circle at the bottom.

RHMcLean -

Passo 34

Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger tra il bordo più lungo del modulo altoparlante e la spalla del case.
Fai leva con delicatezza per staccare il modulo altoparlante.
Una volta staccato il modulo altoparlante, solleva e rimuovi dal telefono il modulo stesso con il cavo di antenna collegato.

Peel off the adhered

Anthony Fisher - 13/04/21

There is also a screw to remove from the speaker near the lightning connector . It is a screw with the screwhole in the bottom of iPhone

John Jaspers -

Hi John,

I think I noted all the screws in step 3 and step 7. Did I miss any?

Arthur Shi -

Passo 35

Usa delle pinzette per iniziare a staccare dall'altoparlante i cavi dell'antenna.

The shorter cable is disconnected at both ends and will come free. If you followed my earlier recommendation, the longer cable is still connected at the logic board end and so needs to be separated from the speaker but left in place in the phone.

Mark Cousins - 10/12/16

Passo 36

Continua a staccare i cavi dell'antenna sul lato lungo dell'altoparlante.
A questo punto, la clip che tiene i cavi dell'antenna potrebbe cadere dall'altoparlante. Se questo accade, assicurati che non vada persa per poterla rimontare.

Passo 37

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare l'antenna Wi-Fi diversity dall'altoparlante.
Rimuovi l'antenna.

If you followed my earlier recommendation, this is still connected to the logic board at the other end. It does need to be removed from the speaker as shown here.

Mark Cousins - 10/12/16

Passo 38

Rimane solo l'altoparlante.

Sostituzione altoparlante iPhone 6s Plus

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