Sostituzione antenna Wi-Fi/Bluetooth iPhone 6s Plus

This is important. I’ve serviced a lot of iphones/ipads for my family as a hobby in the past.

The adhesive was so tight, I cracked the screen trying to pull it/pry it off.

I highly suggest heating at least the bottom edge enough to soften the adhesive

I didn’t have an iOpener, nor a heat gun; however I do have a small personal size hand pillow filled with feed corn. Two minutes in the nuke machine got it plenty warm, and smelled like fresh popcorn too.

I would suggest that you are not shy with the hairdryer. A high heat on the bottom of the phone for at least a minute, if not more, if required.

take out screws first!!

Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

When warmed, the suction cup was useless. Using the tip of a knife blade, was able to get it separated enough to insert spudger.

For me this was the most time consuming task. I used a hair dryer for heating. I found a very tight adhesive. For a moment I thought of abandoning my efforts and take the assembly to a professional repairman. But as they say, patience is a virtue.

After fiddling for about 20 minutes, I achieved a barely noticable opening. So I decided to change the strategy. Instead of applying heat all over the base, I preceeded with small steps with heat concentrated near the opening. I applied intense heat only for about 15 to 20 seconds and immediately working with spudger. It took about an hour to completely open the case. It worked.

Thanks for reading.

- Mr Gamma

just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

if the display cables are damaged how can you tell ?

In theory, I like the idea of propping up the screen with a rubber band and box/soda can like this, but after ripping the FaceTime camera cable twice, I realize that this method puts too much stress on the cable because it places the screen so far back. Even in this photo, you can see that the cable is taut. I’d recommend just holding the screen with your free hand to put the least amount of stress on that cable as possible.

FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

My bracket actually has a black wire connected on the underside that is attached to the metal bracket (with screw) below it in the picture. I decided to leave it on and just move it to the side.

When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

There was some black goop/glue around the battery connector, and when I lifted the old connector, some of that glue fell into the receptacle. It was easy to fish out (with magnifying glass and tweezers) but if you don't catch it, you may not get a good connection.

I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

Be careful on this step: with my iPhone, one of the connectors (the home button/fingerprint sensor) was stuck to the underside of the bracket and I almost strained its cable.

FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

I found prying from the right to be better

Is there any need for this step if only the Battery is replaced

Thanks you i fix it

“When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. “

The following note above was so helpful. I was speeding through the process of getting things back together, since it seemed easy to connect the digitizer cable, but I kept pushing it in the middle and I wouldn’t connect. Until I read through this step and realized it was easier if I would’ve connected one side and then the opposite side right after.

Don’t be too shy when pushing the ends of the digitizer connector back to place. If it does not connect properly, you might face the “half backlight” problem, even if you did not kill any LCD filter. Also check carefully, that you don’t clamp parts of the sticky sealing material placed around the connector inside the connection area.

How much is this to replace?

And where could I buy from?

You can buy these at iFixit: iPhone 6s LCD and Digitizer - Original LCD

For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

Sostituzione gruppo pulsante home dell'iPhone 6s Plus

If you have a replacement adhesive for the display, you may need to install it before reconnecting cables to the components. If the adhesive wraps all the way around the display, it will be impossible to install it once the display is reconnected.

If like me you are only wanting to clean out the speaker, you do not need to do this step. You can skip to step 50

Mine had no tape there

When replacing the bracket be sure to get the other end of the NFC bracket included with the right hand screw.

If necessary, the sticky patch on top f the connector should be removed. Helped my case a lot :)

Hi ,

Thanks a lot for your tutorial !

Can you explain how can we change the lens of the camera ?

Thanks ;)

The silver end of the NFC bracket goes here. The gold floppy end goes under the camera bracket.

Wo kommt den der “6 s Plus Bluetooth Flex” überhaubthin bitte ?

Also "das = https://www.ebay.de/itm/123934065844

My problem when I pull the cable in the socket i shocked bot of them pull togeher the cable and the socket in the logic board the small circle i cry how to fix pleasss help mee

The cable broke instead of coming out of the socket. Oh well. GG

Don’t forget this guy when you’re putting it back in! you’ll have to undo a bunch of screws

This is not a Lightning connector - its a radio connector.

From here you can skip ahead to step 50.

This is super vague. Doesn’t explain exactly HOW to remove the cable from the clips, like it does in step 44. Slightly damaged my cable because I didn’t know how to remove it or the nature of the clip.

Use can use a spudger in a pinch to dislodge the 2.2mm standoff screw. This was the most difficult screw in the phone. A Phillips bit will not work.

What do we call / name this bracket?

My clip in the middle is not removing no matter how hard i pry or what i do, any help??

Ugh, the socket connector separated from the back of the rigid cable. Two wires are still attached to the socket connector, but I’m guessing I’ll need to purchase a replacement WiFi/Bluetooth antenna cable at some point. I hope you sell these too?

**Update** I used the tiniest drop of super glue with activator on both the connector and cable. It seems to be holding! Will reassemble and see if it works. Lucky for me, you sell the replacement cable for $14.99 if my cheap bastard fix fails :)

**Update #2** Using super glue on the upper left wi-fi connector seems to have worked, both my bluetooth and wi-fi are working well post-repair.

Ist it really cellular ?

Or other function