Sostituzione batteria Motorola Moto Z2 Force

Scritto Da: Reesa John
  • Commenti: 29
Sostituzione batteria Motorola Moto Z2 Force

Difficoltà

Molto difficile

Passi

13

Tempo Necessario

30 minuti

Introduzione

Se la batteria del Moto Z2 ti crea dei problemi, usa questa guida per sostituirla.

Se la tua batteria è gonfia, prendi adeguate precauzioni.

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    • Disponi il telefono su una superficie piatta con lo schermo rivolto verso l'alto.

    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger in nylon nella fessura tra lo schermo e la scocca nell'angolo inferiore destro del telefono.

    • Fai leva per aprire parte dello schermo alzando l'attrezzo e lo schermo verso di te.

    • Può essere necessario usare un apporto di calore, ad esempio con un iOpener, per riscaldare l'adesivo sottostante e ammorbidirlo prima di tentare l'apertura.

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    • Incunea lo strumento di apertura in plastica nella fessura creata dalla separazione tra schermo e scocca nell'angolo inferiore destro per tenerlo aperto.

    • Inserisci lo spudger in nylon nell'angolo inferiore sinistro dello schermo e fai leva per sollevare il display.

    • Continua a inserire gli strumenti di apertura in plastica e lo spudger tutto attorno al telefono e fai leva sullo schermo nei vari punti finché non si separa completamente dal dispositivo.

    • Rimuovi lo schermo con delicatezza e lentezza, altrimenti il display potrebbe rompersi.

    No — *slaps wrist* No. Bad steps! Don’t use the suction cup at all, ever. It causes the two layers to separate immediately, long before the frame clips give way to let the screen come off.

    I’m being super ultra very careful with this second attempt on a new device (that was in pretty pristine condition, if I can keep it that way!), and right when I tried pulling as instructed, the screen layers started to pull apart. Use a blade shoved into the edge of the phone and pry it apart, releasing the latches in the process!

    Matt Falcon -

    I have to agree with Matt above. At the smallest bit of pressure on the suction cup, the screen de-laminated from the metal base. It still “works”, but….

    None of the tools in the kit is terribly suited for getting in there and prying that clip apart without splitting the screen.

    Phillip Mills -

    lease Read the Comments poste on “STEP 2”, When you apply the heat, the screen becomes unglued from the metal fram that it is attached to. I ended up damaging my screen. You need to make sure that what is coming unglued is the metal, and not just the plastic screen. I found out when I saw another video, where they do not apply heat, they just use a tool to pry the frame-display assembly… But apparently it was too late… You should be more specific about the warning…

    Juan Carlos -

    A jimmy does not come with the kit. Buy one before beginning this procedure. It is the best way to lift the screen assembly without damaging the assembly.

    Linsey Linton -

    This whole guide has been rewritten since my last comment, and I super appreciate it. The steps are now much more appropriate and less likely to cause damage. Jamming your Jimmy (huehue) into the edge of the screen is actually quite a good idea, not likely to hit anything as there’s nothing but body underneath it.

    Matt Falcon -

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    • Rimuovi lo schermo alzandolo da destra e facendo perno sul bordo sinistro; disponi lo schermo a faccia in giù a fianco della scocca del dispositivo.

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    • Usando l'estremità piatta dello spudger in nylon, tira via il nastro adesivo nero disposto sopra il connettore dello schermo a cui è attaccato il nastro nero.

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    • Inserisci lo spudger al di sotto del blocco del sistema di ritenuta che collega il nastro nero dello schermo alla scocca.

    • Spingi in alto il blocco per liberare la ritenuta.

    • Separa il nastro nero dalla ritenuta tirandolo delicatamente verso sinistra.

    this is really for the digitizer and screen replacement. there are still more steps for just the screen.

    James McKinney -

    There is an enormous amount of adhesive sticking this thing together. As the adhesive is not essential (it holds together with clips, mostly), you really need to focus on *removing* the adhesive, so that it doesn’t stretch and bunch-up, preventing clean reassembly. Leave behind the adhesive that you can prevent from bunching-up (by cleanly breaking it, in turn by holding down one edge to the phone or screen), so you have some sticky left, but just make sure it’s not bunched-up.

    Matt Falcon -

    Revisiting this comment a year later: there’s now replacement adhesive available (or maybe there always was - wish I knew!) for this model in the iFixit store. So, it would be best to remove the adhesive whereever you see it, cleaning everything up and preparing for the new adhesive. That darn adhesive in step 9 below, though… ugh. Work slow, don’t expect it to all be apart by this point.

    Matt Falcon -

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    • Svita dall'altoparlante le due viti Torx T4 da 3 mm.

    There are actually 3 screws in the speaker

    Richard Moffat -

    There are indeed 3 screws in mine as well. I updated this step.

    Matt Falcon -

    There are three screws, one additional is in the lower right corner (orientation like seen in picture)

    mesotes -

    My Z2 Force has 3 T3 sized screws. So be aware that there is often some variance in cell phone construction.

    Krash -

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    • Usa lo spudger in nylon per sollevare e rimuovere l'altoparlante dalla scocca del telefono.

    It’s not mentioned in the guide but you need to make sure to gently pry the ambient light sensor off of the speaker before removing the speaker or you will likely end up ripping its cable and connector from the motherboard.

    If this happens the phone will still boot and work but the screen will be stuck at full brightness and won’t shut off automatically when making phone calls.

    Frederick Hallock -

    Mr Hallock is definitely correct! Definitely something that should have at least noted, if not given a full description of how to do that! Be careful!!

    Krash -

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    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta dello spudger in nylon sul lato della fotocamera più vicino alla batteria.

    • Stacca la fotocamera premendo lo spudger verso il basso finché la fotocamera stessa non salta fuori.

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    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta dello spudger in nylon sotto l'elemento di bloccaggio nero.

    • Sblocca il cavo a nastro sollevando l'elemento di bloccaggio con lo spudger in nylon.

    • Separa la fotocamera dalla scheda tirando delicatamente verso la parte inferiore del telefono.

    where is the laser on the camera?

    Ferit Tüzer -

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    • Incunea lo strumento di apertura in plastica sotto la scheda madre nella parte inferiore del telefono e usa l'estremità piatta dello spudger per creare una fessura.

    • Allarga progressivamente questa fessura in modo che la zona resti staccata anche quando togli lo spudger.

    • Per rendere più facile questo passo, puoi usare uno strumento di leva più sottile invece dello strumento di apertura in plastica.

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    • Libera la parte della scheda madre tra la fotocamera e la batteria inserendo delicatamente l'estremità piatta dello spudger per creare una fessura in modo che questa parte resti staccata quando togli lo spudger.

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    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta dello spudger in nylon sotto il bordo del telefono vicino alla fotocamera.

    • Solleva delicatamente la scheda madre dal telefono finché non è alzata quanto basta per poter infilare un dito tra la scheda stessa il telefono.

    • Con le dita, stacca delicatamente il resto della scheda madre dal telefono.

    • Fai molta attenzione nell'usare le dita per staccare completamente la scheda madre, perché questa si può rompere facilmente.

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    • Dopo la rimozione della scheda madre, nella scocca del dispositivo resta la sola batteria.

    • Rimuovi la batteria.

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Reesa John

Membro da: 24/01/18

635 Reputazione

14 commenti

Anyone knows where to get the lcd glue/tape/adhesive?

Nuno Filipe -

I got everything out, got a new battery, the screen works but the touchscreen doesn’t, anyone had the same problem?

Nuno Filipe -

Wow! This guide is way, way improved vs last week’s version! Nice work, Tarun! I picked up a “bad IMEI” copy of my Z2 Force on eBay to replace the damaged screen, and I’ll step my way through this when transplanting the screen. Thanks!

Matt Falcon -

Hi my moto z2 . bettry has expanded so touch screen has dismantle

Simon -

My phone has expanded inside it's like Bettry expanded so it's switch off every time

Simon -

Please Read the Comments poste on “STEP 2”, When you apply the heat, the screen becomes unglued from the metal fram that it is attached to. I ended up damaging my screen. You need to make sure that what is coming unglued is the metal, and not just the plastic screen. I found out when I saw another video, where they do not apply heat, they just use a tool to pry the frame-display assembly… But apparently it was too late… You should be more specific about the warning…

Juan Carlos -

I saw that video (i think it’s the same) on youtube too and it is misleading. It looks like they already removed the screen and did a second take for the video. There is no way the screen can be removed without heat. My phone was bulging and separated on the left side which gave me room to put the pick in but the adhesive was too strong to continue removing the entire screen. Once I used the iopener the pick was able to separate the screen without issue. I just moved slowly and didn’t use too much force.

jon -

Worked great! Thanks for the instructions. One must be patient and work slowly to separate the screen from the frame and since the screen is plastic it’ll take the iopener longer for heat to conduct through to the adhesive. I initially used the 90 minute rule on the iopener instructions but that wasn’t enough. I reread the OP’s instructions and used the two minute rule which worked great.

Add to Instructions: Remove all adhesive, especially around the perimeter, using the spudger or tip prior to reassembly. It’s very thin so be diligent. If you’re not careful, you’ll end up doubling up tape and the screen won’t sit flush. The precut display adhesive pattern only applies to the perimeter so make sure to cut additional adhesive for the areas at the top and bottom. Compare the screen adhesive pattern and you can see what areas that need the additional adhesive.

I used aluminum foil tape to re-adhere the conductive tape to the new battery. This tape is used to seal ventilation ducts for furnaces and AC systems.

jon -

When removing the battery, I found the thin credit card tool worked the best. Using two allowed enough thickness to gently pry the battery up without bending it. I also used the spudger and corner of the credit card to slice the tape as I proceeded.

jon -

Worked but almost damaged my screen. I have just a small black spot on one edge, that does not affect usability. I didn't had to remove the main board to remove the battery. When the camera was disassembled, I had enough space to go under the battery carefully with the spudger step by step and removed it without bending the battery.

mesotes -

I agree that the plastic card is the best tool to use for lifting the battery. It worked great with 2 minutes of the iOpener and a little alcohol. I used a gentle blower to dry the alcohol before reassembly. I found the entire process took about 40 minutes from start until I had books sitting on the phone to anchor the display and the charger plugged in to bring the battery up for the calibration.

Linsey Linton -

Thanks for this guide….everything appears to bee working after putting it all back together. Now to see if replacing the battery fixes the random “where’s the battery?” screens I was getting. Note: I have an iOpener but never used it. Used 99% alcohol a few times to loosen the adhesive and that did the trick. Thoroughly cleaned the old adhesive round the edges and tried to preserve the adhesive patches at the top. With the replacement adhesive in the battery kit…phone looks like it was never taken apart.

Derek Thorson -

Old phone gets new battery and it is working fine. Everything went as described. Tip: be sure to read the extra comments for each step to make things even easier. The hardest part for me was breaking the adhesive grip tape that seals and secures the perimeter between the case and display. Suggest you take your time, working slowly as eventually they do separate with damaging anything.

stuff94 -

Ive done the screen and battery. Have you guys encountered boot looping with replacing them?

And if so how did you fix the bootloop. Using oem battery. I do not want to hard wipe it

Abe Arslan -