Sostituzione batteria Samsung Galaxy S10e

L'écran OLED et la la batterie

My s10e is 4 years old now and I found glue had weakend and heating was uneccissary.

glad to see Samsung has improved back glass quality since the tortilla chip on the Note 5. much friendlier to open.

Mine was fairly easy, 3 years old and I was able to just pick it open carefully using only my fingernails. The hard part was the battery, which I did slowly to reuse the original adhesive, getting it off in one continuous strip.

La ventouse n'adhérera pas correctement sur la partie incurvée de la vitre ,

Sur la partie incurvée de la coque.

I found that using opening picks for the entire repair was much easier then the pry tool, but that could just be me

You are criminals! This "tutorial" is full of destructive instructions. And whenever trying to make a comment, iFixid admin hides behind the bot personality telling: "Your comment was marked as spam"

People, do not trust them! They tell you everything to break your phone so you will need to bring it to service!

You are criminals! No one ever should use the triangular "mediator" pick for iPhones, or planar connector picks! The back cover is NOT gorilla-glass, and it will crack in multiple places immediately! Only very thin "watchmaker" opening plates(initial pickup) and 0.1mm rigid PP stripes (cut from cheap tool packages, or 7-eleven food packs) may be used there. Before that the side rim - not the cover itself should be heated to boiling point and constantly re-heated while tearing the two-sided scotch. The opening strip may be replaced 2-3 times while reaching the opposite side, because it collects the torn glue. This instruction from iFixit is a pure sabotage for tricking non-expecting users to repair-shops.
The same goes to battery, if you don't risk using solvents, which may damage the screen and the circuit. Only rounded PP strips may tear off the battery scotch. It should be preheated from the screen side, until the battery becomes hot.

This was the only part on my phone that had viable adhesive after it started to naturally separate.

Insérez un nouveau médiator à côté du bord

Insérer un autre mediator

WARNING: Once the cover is off, protect both the inside of the camera window in the back and the camera lens in the phone itself with pieces of paper held on by masking tape. This will prevent accidentally getting cleaner or fingerprints on them.

This should be the very last step in the guide, but the edit button seems to only allow editing the content, not the positioning in the guide. Not sure how to fix this.

The photo seems to show someone lifting the old glue off with tweezers. That certainly wasn't true for my glue! I scrubbed it off with isopropyl alcohol and fabric. (Don't use a paper towel or Kleenex because they fall apart. I used a postage-stamp-size square cut from an old athletic sock. With this and the alcohol I was able to get the cover and the phone as clean as they were at the factory.

When doing this, hold the phone at an angle in your other hand so any alcohol dribble to the outside and not to anywhere important.

Mine appeared to be all identical, so it was easy

The screws on my SM-G970F/DS were all identical.

I also had to use a little bit of heat here from the iOpener.

Criminals! These instructions are given for breaking your phone! Never use the puncher-picker! The antenna module, after gently unglued in the single spot, is pulled down! Not up! DOWN, I said! And it comes off without any force. Minimal force will be required to push it back (after putting it flat on place).

In my phone there was a lot of residual adhesive on the top section, so I initially just flapped it over like a hinge while I finished the other steps. For me, I found, and it should be emphasized, for the reinstall, the top edge needs to be placed flat and snapped UP into the chassis for it to fit.

This manual is a pure SABOTAGE! Never pick up the connector from the camera side! You risk damaging the camera, and the connector itself. Pick it up gently in two steps from left first, then from right, if it does not jump up immediately.

Going from the sides also avoids shorting the battery contacts if you use anything other than a non conductive tool. So the side is best.

I found the black levering tool did not provide enough force and damaged the tool. I found the blue picks gave me wider and safer leverage to get the battery out.

Also a couple of passes with isopropanol was required before I could make any progress. Note that while you are prying from the bottom, I applied the isoproponal all around the battery as the glue is located all the way around.

better to use a length of fishing line or dental floss and slide it under the battery .. very smooth

That spot at the bottom was the only point with enough clearance for me to start prying, and just allowing it to slowly start separating got the battery out. A very slow process as I was seeing the adhesive come off in a continuous strip, so I did it slowly enough for it to remain intact for reuse, which I did.

On my phone, the spudger was far too thick to fit in the space at the beginning. I had to start prying with a small jeweler's screwdriver. That opened the space enough to use the spudger. I think the location of the batteries may vary on different samples.

Some final tips for anyone else about to attempt this:

It was unclear just how much of the residual adhesive to remove from both the back plate and the phone frame. Would leaving just a little affect the seal? I eventually realized (probably later than most) the back plate adhesive is a large cutout sticker, exactly the same as the ifixit provided one. If you can pull up a small edge and have access to some small clamping forceps (hemostat for medical folks), you can use this to slowly peel off the sticker all the way around. There are 2 small 'islands' of adhesive you will need to peel off separately. Removing all of this from the backplate is definitely needed, otherwise attaching a sticker of adhesive onto the old one will be too thick.

For the phone frame, I used the spudger to push around some adhesive but didn't worry too much about it. It is harder to aggressively work on this side as all the adjacent electronics are sensitive.

Con't:

When placing the ifixit backplate adhesive, you must be VERY precise when setting down your first edge. The backplate has some curvature, and you want the edge of the first edge to be JUST inside that curve. Then slowly press down the sticker until the other long end seats down. You want to make sure you push from the middle to the other edge, so that it will align on that curvature instead of just straight down.

The instructions are correct--you really only get 1 chance to place it. You can game this, though, by only gently pressing on the thin strips at first. If you push on the top end near the camera, any large surface area adhesive will stick down and you will not be unsticking it!

Con't:

For the battery adhesive and replacement:

It was unclear just how tightly the battery needed to be re-adhered. Is it really going to shake around that much? But I figured we don't want anything jostling or pulling on the thin battery connector cable.

I used a spudger to VERY gently work the old adhesive off all 4 sides. It looks like there are wires/trace running through the underlying foil-like surface, so you probably do not want to damage that in any way. Also the screen is right underneath that!

I cut 2 strips only of the included tesla tape and stuck that on the 2 long sides. I did not expose the battery side tape yet.

VERY IMPORTANT: Put the battery in and connect the wire. The ifixit battery is smaller than the OEM, so there is a lot of possible movement. The wire also wasn't exactly perpendicular. In fact, it took some finagling to get the wire to actually connect. I found that in my case, the battery was seated right at the bottom/base of the compartment for the wire to sit properly.