Sostituzione del Taptic Engine nell'iPhone 7 Plus

Passo 1

Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere se viene perforata accidentalmente.
Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.
Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe da 3,4 mm sul lato inferiore dell'iPhone.
L'apertura del display dell'iPhone comprometterà le sue tenute impermeabili. Prima di procedere con il prossimo passo, dovrai procurarti guarnizioni sostitutive; se in fase di rimontaggio non procederai a questa sostituzione, dovrai poi prestare una particolare cura a non esporre il tuo iPhone a danni da liquidi.

The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

pargoff - 14/04/17

The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

Jeff Suovanen - 04/05/17

@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

iHelpU.Tech - 13/09/17

Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

Vanessa Pinter - 14/08/18

How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

adam - 18/10/18

The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

lkollar - 08/08/19

Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Sostituzione guarnizione adesiva display iPhone

bester - 05/10/20

I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

Charles Meitin - 06/05/21

Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

My favourites are:

Use a hot water bottle.

Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

Test the lightning assembly at step 13

There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.

etc...

Neil Eriksen -

A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.

Herb

Herb Adler -

The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.

Gareth Flandro -

Passo 2

Se inserito troppo a fondo, un plettro per l'apertura può danneggiare il tuo dispositivo. Segui i passi di questa guida per segnare il tuo plettro ed prevenire eventuali danni.
Misura 3 mm dalla punta del plettro e segna questa distanza con un pennarello indelebile.
Puoi anche segnare gli altri angoli del plettro con altre misure.
Alternativamente, ferma con del nastro adesivo una moneta al plettro a 3mm dalla sua punta.

Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

Sloan Looney -

Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

Clay Eickemeyer -

I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

Clay Eickemeyer -

what fix kit?

Meow Purr -

My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

WILLIAM HARRIS -

Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

AndyF -

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

Gijs Leegwater -

Passo 3

I prossimi tre passaggi ti spiegherano come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, uno strumento che abbiamo studiato per rendere la procedura di apertura più facile. Se non stai usando l'Anti-Clamp, salta questi tre passaggi e continua con un metodo alternativo.
Per istruzioni complete su come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, dai un'occhiata a questa guida.
Tira la manopola blu verso la cerniera per disattivare la modalità di apertura.
Posiziona la ventosa vicino al bordo inferiore dello schermo: una davanti e una dietro.
Spingi sulle ventose in modo tale che possano fare presa sull'area desiderata.
Se trovi che la superficie del tuo dispositivo sia così scivolosa da impedire all'Anti-Clamp di aderire, puoi usare del nastro adesivo per formare un superficie più aderente.

Passo 4

Tira la manopola blu in avanti per bloccare i bracci.
Gira la manopola in senso orario di 360 gradi o fino a quando le ventose iniziano ad allungarsi.
Assicurati che le ventose siano allineate fra loro. Se dovessero iniziare a scivolare, allenta leggermente le ventose e riallinea i braccetti.

Passo 5

Scalda un iOpener e infilalo tra i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.
Puoi usare anche un asciugacapelli, una pistola termica o una piastra calda, ma troppo calore può danneggiare lo schermo e la batteria interna, quindi procedi con attenzione.
Piega l'iOpener in modo che poggi sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone.
Attendi un minuto per dare all'adesivo una possibilità di staccarsi e formare una fessura di apertura.
Inserisci il plettro di apertura nella fessura.
Se l'Anti-Clamp non dovesse formare un'apertura sufficientemente ampia, applica più calore sull'area e ruota la manopola un quarto di giro.
Non girare più di un quarto di giro a volta, e aspetta un minuto tra un giro e l'altro. Lascia che l'Anti-clamp e il tempo facciano il lavoro per te.
Salta i tre passaggi successivi.

it looks like a....

Gergely Soki -

Passo 6

I tre passaggi successivi mostrano come separare lo schermo utilizzando una ventosa.
Il riscaldamento del bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che blocca il display, semplificando l'apertura.
Usa un asciugacapelli oppure prepara un iOpener e applicalo per circa 90 secondi al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.

No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

John Toth - 13/10/20

Hello,

What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

Jiří Sítko - 28/01/21

Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

Moritz Hartges - 18/04/21

I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

Nate B -

If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

Pete P -

I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

Adam Yavner -

I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

terrelldoc -

I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

Matt Brown -

I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

Paul Aron -

I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

John Barker -

Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

tripmusic -

The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

John -

I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

John Noble -

No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

John Noble -

Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

John Noble -

. . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

John Noble -

Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

Matt C -

Passo 7

Applica una ventosa nella metà inferiore del pannello frontale, appena sopra il pulsante home.
Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home per assicurare un adeguato sigillo tra la ventosa e il vetro frontale.

Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

Aaron Soderholm - 04/12/20

As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

Johnny Emrica -

Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

J Rawlinson -

Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

Bradley Steiner -

iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

Matti Haveri -

Passo 8

Tira la ventosa applicando una tensione forte e costante fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo dello schermo e la scocca.
Inserisci nella fessura un plettro di apertura.
L'adesivo impermeabile che tiene in posizione lo schermo è molto tenace. La creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede l'applicazione di una forza piuttosto elevata. Se hai difficoltà nell'aprire una fessura, applica altro calore e muovi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare lo strumento di apertura.

The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

charguy - 31/05/18

Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

Brian Gill - 29/09/19

I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

Michael Sherman - 31/05/21

Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

Chris Wood -

Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

Johnny Emrica -

Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

Howard -

4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

Cat -

Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

Jim Meyers -

After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

Jared Wilk -

Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

hunter.geofizz -

I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

Alessio Toniolo -

Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

Bradley Steiner -

After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

dantegd -

The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

thewrytstf - 12/02/24

sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

Andi Tony -

I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

Sharaf Kazi -

Passo 9

Fai scorrere il tuo attrezzo lungo il bordo sinistro del telefono, spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa, per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.
Fermati vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro del display.
Non cercare di forzare il distacco del display dal case posteriore, perché è tenuto in posizione da clip di plastica che potrebbero rompersi.

My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

griffin.weber -

Passo 10

Ci sono dei cavi flessibili delicati lungo il bordo destro del tuo iPhone. Non inserire il tuo plettro lì, dato che potresti danneggiare i cavi flessibili.

I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

Gib Jeffries -

Passo 11

Inserisci nuovamente il tuo attrezzo nell'angolo inferiore destro dell'iPhone e fallo scorrere attorno all'angolo e lungo il lato destro del telefono per separare l'adesivo.
Non inserire il plettro per più di 3 mm: potresti danneggiare i cavi dello schermo.

No pick in the kit you sent me.

Ted Cooper -

Passo 12

Tira dolcemente la ventosa per sollevare il lato inferiore del display.
Non sollevare il display più di 15° per evitare il rischio di stirare o strappare i cavi piatti di connessione del display.
Tira la linguetta per staccare la ventosa dal pannello anteriore.

Passo 13

Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura sotto il display attorno all'angolo superiore sinistro e lungo il bordo superiore del telefono per allentare l'adesivo rimasto.

I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

Karen Flowers -

I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

Adam Yavner -

This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

wendyhoward -

Passo 14

Fai scorrere lievemente il gruppo display verso il basso (allontanandolo dal bordo superiore del telefono) per liberarlo dalle clip che lo collegano al case posteriore.

Passo 15

Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato sinistro, come per sollevare la copertina posteriore di un libro.
Non cercare di staccare del tutto il display, perché questo è ancora connesso alla scheda logica dell'iPhone da diversi fragili cavi piatti.
Appoggia il display contro qualche tipo di supporto per mantenerlo aperto mentre lavori sul telefono.

Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

Manfred Wachtel - 12/05/20

Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

Sebastian Plickert - 23/04/21

“Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

Which is the same as folding to the right.

“Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

Maybe it gets lost in translation?

Nick Shtangey -

Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

Jim Glenys -

When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

Jim Glenys -

Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

Adam O'Camb -

DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

Mangled Jargon -

Passo 16

Rimuovi le seguenti quattro viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa inferiore del cavo del display alla scheda logica:
Tre viti da 1,2 mm
Una vite da 2,6 mm

Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

u204863 - 07/08/17

Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

Jeff Suovanen - 09/08/17

You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

Mark - 16/09/20

The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

shannon caldwell - 08/09/17

At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

LadyTech - 17/10/17

I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

Katherine Monday - 04/05/18

@katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 09/05/18

my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

AubreyG1 - 21/03/20

A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

Trey Smith - 16/02/21

STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

John Grant - 18/05/21

i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

Tina Matthews -

there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?

Lars Göbel -

what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off

Neylley Reynoso -

Passo 17

Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del cavo del display.

I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

chris west - 16/08/17

If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

Scott Havard - 17/08/17

Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

jeffrey griffith - 18/01/19

I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

lkollar - 08/08/19

Passo 18

Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
Piega lievemente verso l'alto il cavo del connettore per impedirgli di fare contatto con lo zoccolo e alimentare così il telefono.

You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

Mark - 16/09/20

on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

Sarr Sheffer - 02/10/20

I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

MajorCouillon - 17/10/20

After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

Evan O - 02/01/21

Passo 19

In questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata quando disconnetti o riconnetti i cavi.
Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per disconnettere i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica.
Per ricollegare il connettore a pressione, premi una delle estremità finché il clic conferma il corretto posizionamento, poi ripeti l'operazione dall'altra parte. Non premere in mezzo. Se il connettore è anche lievemente fuori allineamento, il connettore può piegarsi, causando un danno permanente.
Se dopo aver rimontato il telefono ti ritrovi con uno schermo bianco, linee bianche sul display oppure se manca, del tutto o in parte, la risposta touch, prova a staccare e riattaccare con cura entrambi questi cavi e assicurati che siano ben bloccati in posizione.

The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

Talon - 24/06/17

What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

Alextay - 02/10/18

Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

Darius Varanavičius - 17/05/19

what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

matomach - 24/10/19

When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

Grant Crawford - 03/10/20

My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

Joshua Driscoll - 01/12/20

have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

ibisiki - 05/12/20

Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

nicO - 21/05/21

Passo 20

Rimuovi le tre viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello anteriore:
Una vite da 1,3 mm
Due viti da 1,0 mm
Rimuovi la staffa.

Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

chris west - 16/08/17

I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

mcr4u2 - 05/01/18

What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

assweeetasyou - 11/01/19

Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

Wayne Lyell - 04/07/19

Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

Jeremiah Kjensmo - 09/03/19

I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

Kayla Tobin - 06/03/21

Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

alicenine84 - 19/11/19

Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

Benji - 08/03/20

I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

Stephen Patterson - 29/01/21

I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

Would appreciate any advice!

jrosegoep - 16/05/20

Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

Robert Schmidt -

Passo 21

Disconnetti il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello anteriore dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.
Questo connettore a pressione deve essere ricollegato un estremo per volta per minimizzare il rischio di piegatura.

Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

Kevin Reilly - 20/01/19

Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

Lukas Watts -

That's save my life!thanks god!

neg -

I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

That Guy - 12/04/20

Passo 22

Rimuovi il gruppo display.
In fase di rimontaggio, fai una pausa qui se vuoi sostituire l'adesivo attorno ai bordi del display.

When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

Benji - 08/03/20

Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

Robert O'Brien - 03/04/21

is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

jacobra -

Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

Hannes -

I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.

Shawn Hime -

I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.

In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/

If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.

Rob Russell -

This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.

Jezagee -

Passo 23

Rimuovi le seguenti due viti Phillips che fissano lo sfiato barometrico al case posteriore:
Una vite da 2,9 mm
Una vite da 2,1 mm

I skipped this step and go straight to step 25. I skipped it because I couldn’t get the screws to come off. But skipping those step did not prevent me or has any detrimental effects on performing step 25.

Jamie Liao - 06/01/18

I agree, I don’t see any reason to remove the Taptic engine to remove the battery…It seems like more of a chance of screwing something else up…keep it simple…

William Karis - 27/04/19

If you’re replacing the battery, removing the Taptic Engine gives you a much better chance of removing the battery adhesive strips successfully. To keep them from snagging and breaking, you want to pull them from as low an angle as possible. With the Taptic Engine in the way, you have to pull them at almost 90 degrees, or risk snagging them on the Taptic Engine.

Jeff Suovanen - 29/04/19

i can’t get the 2.1 screw 2 come out pls help anyone

John Bryce - 20/08/20

I agree with Jamie Liao above. Skips steps 18-24 as described. Before proceeding with step 25, I heated a microwavable hot/cold compress (used to treat muscle strains). I set the iPhone back casing on the heated compress before pulling out the adhesive strips.

Again, there is no need to do steps 18 through 24.

Thomas Young - 23/08/20

i didn’t remove this and had major issues pulling the adhesive strips out. I literally couldn’t grasp them and then when i did, they broke! UGH! I was able to complete the installation but i must have done something wrong because my phone still isnt working. It just ‘flashes’ the apple logo. Won’t do anything else. Should have just taken it in for repair. Now i have to buy a new phone anyway.

Tina Matthews -

Passo 24

Spingere delicatamente lo sfiato barometrico in direzione del Taptic Engine in modo da separare l'adesivo che lo fissa al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone.