Sostituzione del filtro EMI su un display Apple Thunderbolt

Scritto Da: Calvin Laverty
  • Commenti: 51
Sostituzione del filtro EMI su un display Apple Thunderbolt

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

13

Tempo Necessario

25 - 35 minuti

Introduzione

Il filtro emi è posizionato dentro il display e dietro alcune componenti. A causa di ciò è circondato da molti cavi che non fanno parte di questa specifica componente. Assicurati di seguire i cavi in modo da rimuovere solo le parti necessarie.

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    • Appoggia il display con lo schermo rivolto verso l'alto.

    • Dato che il display può essere inclinato in avanti e indietro, abbiamo trovato utile inserire un blocco in polistirolo tra lo schermo e la base.

    • Fai aderire 2 ventose, una per angolo del bordo superiore, e assicurati che abbiano una presa salda.

    • Il vetro è collegato al resto del display con dei piccoli magneti. Sollevalo lentamente e il vetro dovrebbe staccarsi da solo.

    Instead of $14 foam block, I used a full roll of paper towel and two pillows. While it worked, if I ever did this again, I would buy the block of foam. Since you’re removing a power cable, you need to be able thread it through and I think the foam block would make that easier.

    Josh Miller -

    You can also use a single handle, double cup floor lifting suction cup. Just place it in the centre of the screen near the camera and lift slowly.

    Steve A -

    I just used a toilet plunger to remove the screen and it worked like a charm!

    Philip Jacob -

    That’s what I call resourceful—made my day. I hope your repair was successful.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    Great idea, thanks a lot!

    Yvan Sandoz -

    The glass lifted off the magnets quite easily after just using my fingernails. No suction cups or toilet accessories needed.

    Adrian Gropper -

    I had the same problem and after removal of the fan and a bit of work with the vacuum, the fan is quiet. Thanks to ifixit for the great instructions that made this easy.

    John Perser -

    To keep the screen up, other soft objects might work, but it's important that the hole in the back isn't covered because you will need to thread the new Thunderbolt/MagSafe cable through it and it would be a hassle to do it after everything's been set up.

    Thomas -

    Anybody got any links to glass screen replacement supplier for the A1407 Thunderbolt Display? Im finding it impossible to find a replacement without it being crazy money.

    Michael McMillan -

    Instead of a wedge, I used 4 rolls of toiletpaper, one under each corner.

    jnbruin -

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    • Svita le 12 viti lungo i bordi laterali e superiore del pannello LCD con un cacciavite TR 10.

    The screws marked in orange don't need to be removed, all they do is hold the magnets on the LCD.

    Garrett Mace -

    Yes “orange screws” does not need to be removed.

    You do not need a TR10 screwdriver as written in the text a T10 will suffice (more common and also correctly mentioned in the list of tools).

    A TR10 screwdriver is compatible with the T10, but not the other way around

    Per Lohmann Poulsen -

    On mine, the orange screws did hold the LCD down; the magnets were held in by TR6 screws, and those did not need to be removed.

    jml9904 -

    Any info on if an older 2011 imac screen could just be plugged into this to replace the current lcd?

    Nathan Morris -

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    • Inclina verso l'alto il pannello LCD sollevandolo lentamente dal suo bordo inferiore.

    • Può essere utile farti aiutare da qualcun altro per tenere sollevato il pannello LCD mentre tu pensi ai cavi al suo interno.

    • Ci sono 4 cavi che collegano il pannello LCD alle altre componenti. Assicurati di non tirarli troppo e romperli.

    Add the note that it should be lifted from the bottom edge. It is also important not to twist the display by levering up from one corner.

    Charlie Nancarrow -

    Before lifting the monitor, you should be prepared to start collecting screws and have your TR 10 ready.

    Josh Miller -

    Having a couple of short screwdrivers handy to prop up the LCD (like you would a car hood) while you disconnect the cables helps.

    jml9904 -

    I’m against the screwdrivers. You can buy a computer repair toolkit

    deltonis -

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    • Per il primo cavo (quello più lontano dal cavo tenuto fermo da una vite) tira lentamente il connettore per scollegarlo.

    Note: be sure to pull away but not hard. Wiggle and pull slowly. These are delicate especially due to age.

    Overall this is a moderate repair. Follow step by step and you are good.

    Also, use tape and/or labels to mark which cables go where per the MLB and other parts. Resulting in easier reassembly.

    Ted Teske -

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    • Per il prossimo cavo, che è accanto al precedente, troverai una striscia di nastro nero attaccata ad una staffa in metallo sul connettore.

    • Ruota la staffa per sbloccare il connettore, usando il nastro come manico.

    • Quindi tira lentamente il connettore per scollegarlo dalla sua presa sulla scheda.

    What is this connector for?

    pdspanagel -

    I imagine this connector is going to be for display data (i.e. LCD data).

    Scott Havard -

    I pretty much mangled this cable trying to put it back into the slot. Is this something I can order a replacement for?

    Ryan Stryker -

    I also screwed up this wire.

    erybovic -

    I also screwed up this wire. Wondering what the wire name is.

    erybovic -

    Thunderbolt Display 27" LVDS Cable

    Klaus Finke -

    As other’s have said, this cable is super delicate.

    When you replace it, make sure that the small metal handle it firmly reattached to the other side of the port. I thought I’d got it right first time, but had no video signal (thunderbolt detected display, and power was fed to the Macbook Pro).

    I had to reinsert this one again, and one in, firmly press the connector home, then latch the handle over the other side. I also gave it a test pull to ensure it was secure. Then all was well!

    Steve A -

    Managed to remove it but broke one pin putting it back. I don’t understand why they make so fragile with all the space available…

    BAULARD -

    Can anyone provide a photo of this connector so as to give a better understanding of its mechanics? see this cringe worthy effort at guidance; https://youtu.be/A96CUSm_Xhs?t=1050

    Philip Sharp -

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    • Per il cavo dall'altro lato della scheda, afferra il connettore da sotto e scollegalo attentamente dalla sua presa.

    To remove this connector, you squeeze the lower tab to unclasp it, and pull it sideways away from the board

    Brad Bell -

    This cable was also taped for me, so remove the tape first

    danmcfalls -

  7. sjOHkIKEoj3IwvE6

    • Per l'ultimo cavo che collega il pannello LCD, usa un cacciavite TR 10 per svitare la vite che lo tiene fermo.

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    • Il pannello LCD è ora completamente sconnesso dalla scocca e può essere riparato o sostituito.

    Can this be replaced with an LCD from an imac?

    Nathan Morris -

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    • Dovresti vedere il filtro EMI al centro del dispositivo (anche se tenuto fermo da diverse componenti.)

    • Segui i cavi che partono da sotto l'alimentatore a sinistra.

    • Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere il pezzo di nastro adesivo che fissa i cavi alla scocca.

    • Solo un connettore deve essere rimosso (anche se ce ne sono 2, uno accanto all'altro!).

    • Prendi il connettore da sotto e tiralo attentamente fuori dalla sua presa.

    Note: The Brown/Black pair highlighted in the picture is for the AC connector. For the MagSafe power, you want to disconnect the double-black wire connection. Another way to distinguish if colors differ is that the MagSafe connection has a much larger connector on it.

    Isaac -

    Confirming what Isaac said. The black/brown pair don’t need to be unplugged. It’s the other connector that needs to be removed to replace this cable.

    R Miller -

    Yes - pictures and last bullet point are misleading and confusing respectively. I suggest fixit should remove the second picture and replace it with a picture of the connector that should be removed and amend the last bullet point o read something like 'depress the clip that holds the left connector in place and carefully etc ...'

    Avoid the verb 'grab'

    Philip Sharp -

    Yes, grab has no finesse at all. Grabbing and ripping are what makes the whole process a potential nightmare :)

    Peter Newman -

    The plastic tape was completely dried out and had slight burs from overheating. Replaced with regular masking tape.

    Thomas -

    Confirming that pictures and last bullet point are misleading. The double-black wire connection is the larger connector and is black green. Much easier to tell apart and much easier to unplug.

    Thomas -

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    • Quindi rimuovi il pezzo di nastro isolante che tiene fermi i cavi nella copertura che li collega all'alimentatore.

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    • Le componenti dello speaker (la scatola nera) attorno all'ingresso dell'alimentazione vanno rimosse.

    • Usa un cacciavite TR 10 per svitare 4 viti.

    • Scollega il cavo dello speaker sul retro della scheda tirando attentamente l'estremità in plastica del cavo.

    • Rimuovi lo speaker.

    If you are only replacing the Thunderbolt and MagSafe cable, steps 11-13 do not need to be performed ie speaker and EMI filter do not need to be removed, only the screw holding the grounding cable on the EMI filter (top left of round disk).

    martin baynes -

    I concurr with M Baynes.

    Macrepair SF -

    I just successfully removed and replaced the Magsafe/TB cable. I can confirm that Martin Baynes and lamajr are correct.

    Kevin -

    Can confirm martin baynes' comment, steps 11-13 are unnecessary.

    Thomas -

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    • Ora che lo speaker centrale è stato rimosso, il filtro EMI è facilmente accessibile.

    • Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere il nastro argentato sopra il filtro.

    I can’t help but notice that this assembly that is called an EMI (Electromagnetic Interference) Filter is in the exact position that my monitor has been displaying a band of disrupted color bands once it heats up. I am changing the Thunderbolt cable assembly in hopes that is fixes the problem. If it doesn’t then I will make changing the Filter my next quest. It is also noteworthy that the Filter is grounded to the case by the metal tape which must be peeled back for this procedure. Hmmm.

    whiteshephard -

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    • Il filtro EMI è tenuto fermo da 3 viti. Usa il cacciavite T10 per svitarle.

    • La vite che tiene fermi sia il filtro che un cavo ha delle dimensioni diverse e non va confusa con le altre 2.

    • Il cavo verde-giallo che era collegato dalla vite è nascosto dietro un'altra componente. Per rimuoverlo schiaccialo dietro il cavo nero e il filtro.

    Nothing about the power cable itself here. That has to be unplugged first, or when you get to this point, you’ll have to carefully unplug the main power cable from the back of the AC adapter you just removed in Step 13, and feed it through the hole in the back of the case.

    EARL W REYNOLDS JR -

    I was unable to “squeeze” the green/yellow wire behind the black wire because it is adhered to the back case. In order to replace this cable, you’ll need to pry the black cable off the back of the case. Now is a good time to do that so you *can* get the green/yellow wire out.

    R Miller -

Conclusione

Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Calvin Laverty

Membro da: 14/04/15

2240 Reputazione

7 commenti

Power adapter? That's the AC EMI filter, right? My power supply looks like this:

http://www.dvwarehouse.com/661-6048-661-...

The EMI filter will never fail... well, maybe a direct lightning strike.

roger -

That is definitely just a filter. The power supply is the big PCB connected to it. One could say this is an EMI filter along with an IEC input connector...this guide is only useful if you want to replace the connector rather than the actual power supply.

Garrett Mace -

Not sure if the EMI filter will NEVER fail as someone said above. Mine was buzzing and I replaced it and this fixed one of my displays that was buzzing. There are also other causes, including capacitors on the Power Supply board, worn out fan etc.

Charlie Nancarrow -

So are we saying that this is wrong? anyone? I really need to replace my power supply.

Stewart Sensor -

I replace the all in one lightning and charge cable but it has ended up that the lightning cable only works. I thought I connected everything up fine but which connector would stop the charge cable working?

pdspanagel -

Am I imagining things, or was there once a separate power supply guide? I bought the part, and now I can't seem to find that particular guide.. I had the buzzing sound, and now my display won't even turn on-- do I have to replace both, would you think?

Cory Caplan -

Display is going out afther 1 hour of working. I have replace the power supply. But afther installation I still had this problem.

Then I ordered a new Logicboard. and a new cable. Afther installation I still had the same problem !!!. :(

Is it possible that the filter is broken, or the display of the A1407.??

Paul Rovers -