Sostituzione dell'unità ottica del MacBook Pro Unibody da 13", versione metà 2009

Scritto Da: Walter Galan
  • Commenti: 23
Sostituzione dell'unità ottica del MacBook Pro Unibody da 13", versione metà 2009

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

13

Tempo Necessario

45 minuti - 1 ora

Introduzione

Questa guida illustra le modalità di sostituzione dell'unità SuperDrive del computer portatile (richiede un'unità SuperDrive SATA).

  1. dOyroxuUBfNu1T4K

    • Rimuovi le dieci viti seguenti, che fissano il case inferiore al MacBook Pro Unibody da 13":

    • Sette viti con testa a croce da 3 mm.

    • Tre viti con testa a croce da 13,5 mm.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

  2. bLtKOLyJdyAxkZaG

    • Solleva leggermente il case inferiore e spingilo verso la parte posteriore del computer per liberare le linguette di montaggio.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

  3. B1SUXfcr5fruMavs

    • Per precauzione, suggeriamo di scollegare il connettore della batteria dalla scheda logica per evitare eventuali scariche elettriche.

    • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, sollevare il connettore del cavo della batteria dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica staccandolo da questa.

    Citazione da gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

  4. 3y4Jy2Q51Si2t4gD

    • Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, stacca delicatamente dalla scheda logica il connettore del cavo dell'altoparlante/subwoofer di destra. Stai attento a non sollevare la presa. Tira il connettore verso l'unità ottica.

    • Agisci da sotto i cavi.

    Step 4 is correct as stated (pull up, not slide out). You'll definitely see this when you put it back in place, pushing down in socket not sliding in. Just be careful and use spudger (gently!) underneath wires as shown.

    jgcolt -

    What is the best way to solder this back onto the board? I did it once 5 years ago, but that was my first and only time soldering. I know there is a soldering guide, and I have read it. Could someone tell me please the best way to reconnect the right speaker/subwoofer cable to the board, referencing the soldering guide?

    Leslie L. Gordon -

  5. UKx5LfwUtKQb3vdO

    • È necessario spingere via il piccolo fermacavi in plastica (evidenziato in rosso) incollato alla scheda logica prima di scollegare il cavo della fotocamera. Stai attento a non rompere alcun componente della scheda mentre lo allontani dal connettore del cavo della fotocamera.

    • Tira il connettore del cavo della fotocamera in direzione dell'unità ottica per scollegarlo dalla scheda logica.

    • Questa presa è in metallo e si piega facilmente. Assicurati che il connettore e la presa sulla scheda logica siano ben allineati prima di accoppiare i due pezzi.

    When you put the Mac back together after this entire procedure, it's virtually impossible to get the camera cable reconnected because there is a small piece of plastic glued to the board to keep it from coming unplugged. An Apple store tech explained the piece of plastic and said it won't break anything if I pry it off the board. I did and then the cable connected easily.

    karenz -

    The retainer for the camera cable may be black as well as clear. It is much easier to remove and reinstall the retainer if the DVD drive cable is removed first.

    MikeG -

  6. 4Cmv15fiVfNrpKNa

    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore dell'unità ottica dalla scheda logica.

  7. mqoJybZwfxQYQcTq

    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore del disco fisso dalla scheda logica.

  8. rLTqYOMGmLqOGQEI

    • Rimuovi le due viti a croce Phillips che fissano il subwoofer al case superiore. Quella di destra è da 5 mm, quella di sinistra da 3,9 mm.

    • La vita più lunga è quella di destra.

    For step 8, I found I had to use a Phillips #0 screwdriver to remove the two screws. I'm not sure if mine were just over-tightened, but I couldn't get the two screws off with a cheapo Radioshack #00 screwdriver or a nice Wiha one for the life of me without coming close to stripping them. Tried the #0 and they popped right out. Hope this helps.

    Aaron B -

  9. XYAFSNSMNojPP4w3
    XYAFSNSMNojPP4w3
    Z5tkpABfj2LGTmL5

    • Il subwoofer è ancora collegato all'altoparlante di destra, perciò aspetta a rimuoverlo completamente.

    • Solleva il subwoofer dall'unità ottica e mettilo sopra il computer.

  10. WJwTMGI3pXXpg1Dc
    WJwTMGI3pXXpg1Dc
    riMFfEXrcmtmTgTY

    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips da 8,4 mm che fissano la staffa del cavo della fotocamera al case superiore.

    • La vite di destra potrebbe rimanere bloccata dal cavo della fotocamera.

    • Solleva dal case superiore la staffa del cavo della fotocamera.

    There's another type of bridge, black, with an extra piece of metal to hold the cable. You don't have to remove this bridge to unmount the optical drive.

    Martin -

  11. YyXwuMPUrWkVxHTK
    YyXwuMPUrWkVxHTK
    iZpSDQD1ioEIusq4

    • Rimuovi le tre vite a croce Phillips da 2,5 mm che fissano l'unità ottica al case superiore.

    • Solleva l'unità ottica dal suo bordo di destra e tirala via dal computer.

  12. t2AC6iBmY1fJY5TH

    • Remove the optical drive cable by pulling it straight away from the optical drive.

    • This connector is particularly deep, so be sure to pull away from the drive at the center of the connector.

    • If you have a CD or any other object jammed in your optical drive, we have an optical drive repair guide.

  13. mWZIFgpAZtqsZpSB

    • Remove the two black Phillips #0 screws securing the small metal mounting bracket. Transfer this bracket to your new optical drive or hard drive enclosure.

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Walter Galan

693762 Reputazione

2 commenti

iFixit rocks! Got a stuck CD out of my wife's superdrive this way. Many thanks!!!

Steve Folberg -

I just took mine apart and found a piece of tape in it. Smh. Works perfect now.

Dana Kimble -