Introduzione

Prima di accedere ai componenti interni del controller, devi rimuovere la scheda madre superiore. Questa guida ti mostrerà come farlo tramite la rimozione della saldatura.

  1. nCPWIVIPPnPioQek
    • Rimuovi il coperchio del vano batterie.

    • Rimuovi le batterie.

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    • Suggeriamo di utilizzare uno spudger di nylon per questo passaggio. Nella foto è mostrato uno spudger di metallo.

    • Agguanta il controller saldamente per rimuovere la copertura posteriore dell'impugnatura, fai forza con lo spudger nella fessura tra la parte frontale e posteriore della copertura.

    • Stacca la copertura posteriore dell'impugnatura muovendo avanti ed indietro lo spudger. Ripeti questa operazione lungo tutta la lunghezza della fessura, tutt'intorno all'impugnatura.

    Start prying the side plate off underneath the trigger, this makes it easier to disconnect the other clips connecting the side plate to the backplate.

    Brandon -

    One you take it off, is it possible to click it back in?

    Aiden Bear -

    As long as you don’t exceed the couple tons you need to take it off you should be able to put it back.

    Brandon -

    I don’t have a squdger

    TimidFerret4982 Gaming -

    getting those handles back on seems impossible, they just dont fit as well, a gap remains even after snapping into place.

    Dont think ill be doing this in the future

    Spoutin Wyze -

    edit: wiggled the bo9ttom middlewith the handles off and somethign finally “clicked” into place for that extra 1/4 mm for the down arrow on my D-Pad to click back up into place!.

    Spoutin Wyze -

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    • C'è una vite nascosta posizionata al centro del controller, dietro all'etichetta.

    • Usa un cacciavite e fai un foro al centro dell'etichetta.

    • C'è la possibilità di sollevare l'etichetta se non si vuole forarla.

    • Rimuovi le cinque viti da 10 mm poste sul retro del controller usando il cacciavite Torx Security T8.

    i damaged my screws. how do i get the screws out?

    tenzin -

    wait. i just watched a video guide on ifixit's youtube channel about damaged screws. i'll try those methods.

    tenzin -

    It's a t8 or t9 security bit btw, I got the top two out with a regular T8, but the bottom two and middle needed a T9 Security bit.

    David Loper -

    All five faceplate/backplate screws in the controller I disassembled were T8 security fasteners.

    John Dziedzic -

    Am I doing something wrong because I got the tool it said I needed and got the middle screw out but the others have a bump or something in the center of the screw and it won't fit.

    kolton77 -

    The T8 is only good for the middle screw on my One S controller. The others require something bigger

    Matej Skelo -

    These requires SECURITY Torx bits (they have a cannulated hole in the driver). I don't believe the iFixIt branded driver is cannulated but you can buy a set of bits from DeWalt DWAX200 which is overkill but has what you need.

    jhighsmith -

    The driver that iFixIt sells is cannulated.

    jhighsmith -

    where do you get this dumb ass screw driver

    Jake Zweier -

    iFixit Store #IF145-027-3

    VauWeh -

    You can bypass it with a 1.5mm flathead.

    Marianne Sandling -

    thank you for this. worked for me

    Mr Anderson (Evolluisionist) -

    These screws required a T10, not T8.

    Armand -

    TR9. A $10 kit from Walmart has the bit/driver in it and extra goodies to make life simple.

    Matt Martin -

    As weird as it sounds, the top 2 came out for me with a flathead- but the bottom two and the middle one wont

    macybrooksevans -

    If you damage the middle part of the screws you can still take it out with the same screwdriver.

    Kev God -

    Thank-You :)

    Isaiah -

    needed a T8H, not easy to see.

    on a grey green xbox one controller

    Michael -

    On my 1708 controller there are two internal screws near the rumble motors that need to be removed with a T6 non security bit to remove the back cover.

    teeedubb -

  4. CN1rEMvQC3myRLyq
    • Rimuovi la copertura posteriore del controller.

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    • Rimuovi la copertura frontale del controller.

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    • Puoi lasciar penzolare liberamente i motori della vibrazione fuori dalle loro prese.

    • Rimuovi la saldatura dei giunti saldati mentre tieni giù il filo rosso e quello verde sulla scheda madre superiore.

    • Rimuovi la saldatura del filo nero e del filo grigio attaccati alla scheda madre superiore.

    • Rimuovi i motori di vibrazione e mettili da parte.

    • Fai attenzione a non danneggiare altri componenti o a ferirti mentre usi il saldatore.

    • Per informazioni su come si salda, clicca qui.

    Steps 6-8 aren't completely necessary, and are very risky if you aren't good at soldering. It would seem the only reason to remove the motherboard and mess with all this soldering is just so you can reach both screws on the trigger in step 10. However, you can reach them already with a small-bodied screwdriver. Although you might have to rest the screwdriver on the black square processor to reach the bottom screw, it shouldn't damage the processor or motherboard to jimmy that screw out.

    Robert Rapier -

    like mentioned by ‘Robert Rapier’ you can skip the de-soldering in most cases,

    for example cleaning or changing the buttons is doable, but the grey and black wires are pretty short

    and wired through the inner case so it can get a bit fiddly and you have to be careful not to damage them in the process.

    If you have a soldering station around i would still recommend using it.

    yKekS Yzz -

    Thanks to above commenters. Can confirm I was able to do a button repair without soldering. Thank you all!

    Matt Hunt -

    If you peal back the Kapton tape mounting the grey/black wires there is enough play to maneuver all the boards for cleaning most of the buttons from a soda spill. Cleaning the dimple buttons on the mother board by immersion requires the de-solder...

    agzero -

  7. BY2UC6W4D1LECNDH
    • Svita le due viti Torx T6 da 7 mm che si trovano vicino alle prese dei motori di vibrazione.

    Are these just T6 screws or Torx security T6 that is cannulated?

    Kenan Vickstrom -

    The outer screws are security screws. The ones on the system boards are Torx.

    Rongwey -

  8. haVbje2oHVch2uMH
    • Afferra saldamente nella zona centrale i lati della scheda madre.

    • Solleva verso l'alto la scheda madre muovendola delicatamente avanti e indietro.

    • Sollevare la scheda madre richiederà un po' di forza.

    Hola, como se instala el software a la nueva placa base ?

    MANSONN755 -

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Liam Gow

Membro da: 22/01/15

5284 Reputazione

6 commenti

where can i get a top motherborde replacement??

Lol John -

Hi John,

Unfortunately, beyond the parts list given on the main page, I don't know of any other reliable links. I'd suggest Googling the part, or maybe searching on eBay.

Liam Gow -

I was only able to unscrew 2 of the Torx screws. They have a pin right in the middle that doesn't allow for the screwdriver to be fully inserted, or at all. The two screws I was able to unscrew must've had a shorter pin than the others.

Rami Girgis -

These points on the head is what we call a security torx screw. You will need the specific T8 or T6 Security Torx Screwdriver to remove these screws.

jbagge0023 -

You can use a small flat blade screwdriver ;-)

If any of the screws are tight, the centre pin may snap, then you can just use a normal Torx bit.

Lee Houston -

Salut, merci pour le tuto bien expliqué. Je sais déjà démonter, remonter entièrement ma manette, sais-tu ou acheter des carte-mere pour manette xhox one ? Celle qui tient les deux joysticks. Bonne journée

PoolpoHz -