Sostituzione disco rigido iMac 27" 2017

What’s the point of this? You run the wheel around the outside, and then you lay it down anyway to pull the glass and do the rest. The wedge is not needed.

I have a story to tell about this teardown. It all went wonderfully well until after I completed the process and attempted to format my new SSD drive only to discovery that the capacity of the drive was 256GB… not the 2TB I was sure I had ordered. iFixit was very supportive and helpful in sending me a new set of sticky tape strips and and RMA to return the SSD and some of the other parts.

I finally had received my new set of strips and the 2TB SSD…. I figured, piece of cake… I already know how to do this… but I watched the video again and started following the teardown…

…apparently the new sticky tape strips was way more powerful that the original tape and while using the pizza cutter tool and not advancing much, I proceeded to use one of the iFixit credit card style wedges…. I now have 2 pretty severe cracks on the glass of my display, which as clearly explained by @mayer can only be replaced by an entire display… which runs at about $500. Cosmetically it looks horrible, but it works… for now.

Should you run a hair dryer along the edges first?

Der Stecker muss seitlich wie die meisten anderen Stecker in diesem Modell komprimiert werden, um ihn aus der Buchse auf dem Logicboard zu ziehen. Die Zugrichtung ist parallel zum Logicboard in Richtung Oberkante des iMac. Ziehen ohne seitliches Zusammendrücken der Backen am Stecker könnte den Stecker oder die Buchse beschädigen.

These instructions are unclear. They imply the cable can just be pulled out but this step had me stuck for a bit. Searching the webs, I discovered that there are little tabs on either side of the connector. I used my prod tool and poked one side and the connector came out a little. I poked the other side the connector came out without a fight.

The instruction for this step state this but I was still not expecting two cables. Finally figured out there is a Display Power and a separate Display Data cable.

After rocking the display back and forth a bit, I found it helpful to use my iMac opening tool to gently slide ever so slightly underneath the bottom of the glass to cut the adhesive. This was with the display lowered back into it its normal position. I just worked about 1 millimetre deep at a time and eventually cut through the ~8” adhesive strip at the bottom centre.

It's possible to skip this step and go to step 24, leaving the display attached. You'll want to open the display just enough to replace the drive, with the machine upright and supported so the display doesn't swivel (I fold up a small pillow and wedge it in there). This way you don't have to worry about damaging the display when removing it, or aligning it when replacing it (which can be difficult to do solo as it's big and heavy).

Using a T8 with a short handle is helpful here, and make sure it's well magnetized so you don't drop the screws for the hard drive (just leave the other ones in the speakers).

Where can I purchase this cable if my iMac only came with the m.2 SSD?

they are T9 for 2012.

In my case these were T9 screw posts. Late 2012 iMac. They had traces of Loctite on them.

what if I’m installing a hard drive?

Two thoughts on SSD replacement/upgrade:

1) It would help if some references were made to help us determine what we need in terms form factors. I’ve never used an SSD and see a 2.5” one that would work, but I don’t know if 2.5” SSDs are different (in form factor) from 2.5” HDs. A lot of us are still learning about SSDs and isn’t that what this site is about? (Learning new things about hardware and using hardware?)

2) I’m not clear if I definitely need a new temperature sensor if I put in an SSD or if

Hi, thanks for good information. Do we need intermediate SSD cables (red, black and yellow)? iMac has SATA original cable.

Great pics ! Is that “temp sensor board” is already on my HDD IMAC ?? Or must I buy one ?

Don’t bother with the thermal sensor. I didn’t fit one and the iMac is working fine and no fans are kicking in.

Instructions say to attach sensor to the SSD, but all pictures show it being attached to the SSD carrier. This may not represent accurate SSD temp as much of the carrier dissipates the heat absorbed from the SSD

i don't have a combo cable.i also didn't have asata drive. just a blade ssd. i don't see wwhere i could add a cable

The SATA cable on my Late 2012 was not long enough to comfortably attach to the end of the temperature sensor array after it was plugged into the new SSD. I had to fold the array and slide it under the SSD and housing. There was much resistance to the folding so I took it slowly to let the wires adjust gradually to the fold so they would not break.

Unfortunately, the adapter that comes with it isn't long enough to avoid pushing against the screen in the front. One week after upgrading to SSD my screen fell off shattering and breaking the power connector on the systems board. A new screen is ordered but I'm hoping the power connector isn't damaged beyond repair. I'm going to try to adhere the HD adapter to the back inside of the case with 3m adhesive to avoid pressure against the screen.

As a newbie, the only other upgrade I have done is to replace my iPhone 7 battery. I had trouble on reassembly.

This is a great upgrade guide, but it would be important to me to see the reassembly instructions including the cautions.

For example, I had issues with reattaching the plugs in the phone. I could see having an issue with them here, as well as repositioning the display back into the cabinet.

I do PCB board repair work and repair pinball machines. But I won’t try this.