Sostituzione dissipatore/ventola Xbox One S

Scritto Da: Erik Ramazzini
  • Commenti: 44
Sostituzione dissipatore/ventola Xbox One S

Difficoltà

Difficile

Passi

18

Tempo Necessario

15 minuti

Introduzione

Anche se il dissipatore e la ventola sono due componenti diverse, la procedura per sostituirne una o l'altra è esattamente la stessa, in quanto sono attaccate l'una all'altra sulla scheda madre.

  1. AQtIBB1ZGqHTvNg4

    • Gira l'Xbox One S in modo che la parte inferiore sia rivolta verso l'alto.

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    • Comincia lavorando sul case posteriore dove c'è l'adesivo della garanzia. Infila uno strumento di apertura nella fessura tra la parte inferiore della copertura e la parte superiore forata. Quindi trova i ganci nella fessura che tengono insieme la copertura.

    • Usa lo strumento di apertura per rilasciare i ganci. Il modo migliore è fare leva per allontanare la copertura posteriore da quella inferiore.

    • Sentirai dei suoni di scatti mentre fai leva per aprire la copertura. Potrebbe essere abbastanza difficile rimuoverne la parte inferiore.

    • Potresti rompere i ganci mentre rimuovi la copertura inferiore.

    • Consigliamo di iniziare dal retro con l'adesivo della garanzia. Fai leva con lo strumento di apertura lungo il bordo posteriore finché tutti i ganci sono liberi, poi prosegui con gli altri lati. Quando tre lati sono liberi, comincia alla fine del lato opposto al pulsante sync. Fai attenzione e prenditi il tuo tempo, si separerà tutto senza danni.

    Be careful not to damage the pairing button on this part

    David -

    Important!!

    You've to start from the back corner where is the information label, because there is a main clip behind a warranty sticker

    Cristian Ramirez -

    They should add this to the guide! I didnt know that, and did some minor damage to the bottom piece where that main clip is.

    I dont mind because it's my own Xbox, but what if it belonged to a customer?

    Charles Jackson -

    They should add this to the guide! I didnt know that, and did some minor damage to the bottom piece where that main clip is.

    I dont mind because it's my own Xbox, but what if it belonged to a customer?

    💯% same opinion!

    profnussecke42o -

    This was hard! I tried using plastic pry tools, but they did not work. A metal tool did, but make sure to watch a video or two, to see what you actually are dealing with. After the videos it went quite smoothly.

    Peterdk -

    I legitimately cannot open the case where the warranty sticker is, ive tried everything, im resorting to a fork to try and open this

    Sohail ツShah -

  3. DGFtVxEdoZKRdLMd

    • Una volta rilasciati tutti i ganci, rimuovi la parte inferiore della copertura.

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    • Usa un cacciavite Torx T10 per svitare le sei viti verdi da 50 mm segnate da F1 a F6 dalla copertura in metallo.

    My F3 isn't coming out. The screwdriver isn't sitting tight like it is for the other ones. Any idea on how to fix that?

    ben mccord -

  5. 3AbSAfsoTxUrMeTi
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    • Separa delicatamente la copertura interna da quella bianca esterna usando il metodo appropriato.

    Essential tip: be sure to slide the metal housing backward, away from the from of the case as pictured above, rather than upward. If not, you can easily break off the teeny momentary switches on the IR blaster board!

    Mark Ross -

    “appropriate method is not descriptive like Mr. Ross’s comment. The original poster should edit the description to ensure people do in fact remove the box from the case appropriately. I would also add arrows to the picture.

    Ryan A -

    ____________⬆️

    ↖️Yes! I see it the same way!↗️

    ⬅️Arrows are always a good thing!➡️

    ↙️Can't do anything wrong with them! ↘️

    ____________⬇️

    😅😅

    profnussecke42o -

    I didn't realize that metal ribbon was connecting the case to the console and I yanked it w out realizing it was there. How o I get a replacement?

    Jerianna Mike -

  6. EFLSsRhhXsAEZnYh
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    • Per sostituire il disco rigido, gira la console a testa in giù e svita le due viti Torx T10 da 10 mm, la C3 e la C4, dal retro della Xbox One S.

    • Questo permetterà alla copertura in plastica del disco rigido di staccarsi dal resto della console.

    Some of my silver were gold screws, so just letting people know to look out for that!

    jovialkitten -

    The Torx screw circled on the left is actually C5

    Jaryn Wickman -

    I found the same. On my Xbox One S, it's C3 and C5 that hold in the hard drive caddy. C4 holds in the optical disk caddy.

    jamesr -

    Yeah, C3 and C5 on my console too.

    Jahn Roux -

    Funny thing on my console rev t t3 built feb 2018 it’s C4 and C5

    KingofRome -

    The instructions fail to mention that the top metal cover can be lifted off at this point without undoing any more screws.

    CityZ -

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    • Scollega delicatamente il disco rigido dalla scheda madre (dai due connettori in plastica).

    Do not disconnect the connector in the second image! There are tiny prongs that bend easily and if bent just a tad bit they will break off. I had first hand experience with this and I ended up breaking my Xbox because I could not put that cable back on.

    [deleted] -

    Do not remove the cable!!!! You can change while the cables are plugged. It took 2 hours trying to put mm precisely all the little pins because of the removal of the cables.

    Please update the post, I could easily end up as the Aaron, breaking the XBOX completly.

    Botond Kopacz -

    Yes, this has also happened to me the connectors had broken and the pins bent and snapped off.

    Samuel Garbutt -

  8. VxZkFMZbQAxM2dKL

    • Per rimuovere il lettore CD, svita la vite Torx T10 argento da 10 mm chiamata "C5".

    The image shows screw 'C4' witch is the correct screw. 'C5' is for the HDD.

    GoJoel -

  9. IL5gf22gGXMcJsTw

    • Tira leggermente via il lettore CD dalla scheda madre e scollega i connettori in plastica sulla scheda madre.

  10. LDNGpA5mc6kvJlfK

    • Per sostituire la scheda madre devi svitare le tre viti Torx T10 argento da 10 mm chiamate "C1", "C2" e "C6".

    • Svita le quattro viti Torx T9 nere da 8 mm chiamate "A1", "A2", "A3" e "A4".

    The Black screws are T-8 Torx, not T-9!

    Jakub Krzyskow -

    I didnt see this before, so thankfully I was able to use T9 without stripping the screws!

    Charles Jackson -

    IMPORTANT! You also need to remove the two T10 screws labeled B1 and B2 in order to remove the motherboard! I had to figure this out on my own.

    Charles Jackson -

    I hust had to remove the red ones and than i was able to lift the powersupply of the mainboard

    Dennis M -

    I had to remove B1 and B2 as well.

    Seen Bee -

  11. VYVC1GvNKhPpRiky

    • Trova il morsetto rettangolare nell'angolo opposto all'alimentatore.

    Remember to remove the black bracket by the fan!

    Martin Samuelsson -

  12. HTtOORoftr1aaQ2q

    • Prendi il morsetto con delle pinzette. Tiralo verso l'alto, lontano dalla copertura argento. Fallo ondeggiare se necessario.

    • Non preoccuparti di fare un po' di forza per rimuovere il morsetto dalla copertura argento. Il metallo si può piegare e puoi reincastrarlo come preferisci.

    • Devi svitare la piccola scheda logica vicino alla ventola prima di rimuovere la scheda madre. Penso sia dell'antenna WiFi.

    • Rimuovi la piccola scheda Mediatek etichettata D1, D2, e D3.

    What bit couldninuse tontake D1-3 screws off

    Amanda Zapata -

  15. agFplIWSUCuRiA26

    • Ora che il morsetto è stato rimosso, solleva delicatamente la scheda madre dai suoi bordi dalla copertura in metalli. La scheda madre dovrebbe uscire senza problemi.

    How do you open it?

    johnluxford07@gmail.com -

    They forget, I think, to tell that first you need to take off screw B1 and B2

    Gabriel Varela -

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    • Gira la scheda madre a faccia un giù e trova la staffa in metallo a forma di x.

    • Usa uno spudger o uno strumento di apertura in plastica peer fare leva sugli angoli della staffa e sollevarli dai quattro piccoli supporti verdi.

    • Queste immagini mostrano un cacciavite utilizzato per sollevare gli angoli della staffa. Usa uno spudger o uno strumento di apertura in plastica per evitare di danneggiare la scheda madre.

    Wenn der Kühlkörper gelöst wird muss die Wärmeleitpaste erneuert werden !!!

    Rich Martinek -

  17. CsqIKYvcZgHbBJSm
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    • Scollega la ventola/dissipatore dalla scheda tirando delicatamente verso l'alto il connettore in plastica bianca.

    You don’t have to take the heatsink off the motherboard to take the fan off if that’s what you’re after, just take a flathead and lift the clips and that should let the fan go.

    therealdeimy -

  18. UmpOWPULolRypr3L
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    • Una volta rimosso il dissipatore/ventola dalla scheda, usa lo strumento di apertura in plastica per rimuovere la ventola in plastica dal dissipatore in metallo, facendo leva sui ganci rettangolari della ventola.

    • Potresti dover fare un po' di forza per rimuovere il dissipatore.

    This guide and the visual diagrams provided are great but shouldn’t you at least mention destatic process, work matt grounding and the need to replace thermal compound for the sake of novices doing at home repairs?

    Mikey in a jar -

    I agree with the comments, though I am not the author; I repair stuff like this for a living. Making manuals on IFIXIT.com is a dilemma. The manuals are great if you are the repair guy and need some basic help on a new device. But if then again, if you are the repair guy, and you have much experience, do I really want to give away all my hard-earned experience to the average home DIY guy who thinks they can do everything without paying anybody for it? My .02 on the comment by Mikey is that indeed, a cursory mention of "additional precautions/procedures" should be included, but not with much detail. In fact, I think ALL of the IFIXIT manuals abruptly end and should have a disclaimer to the effect of, "THIS GUIDE MAY BE INCOMPLETE. INEXPERIENCED DIYers MAY PERMANENTLY DAMAGE OR "BRICK" THE DEVICE. WE HIGHLY RECOMMEND CONTACTING AN EXPERIENCED TECHNICIAN."

    B. A. Computer Services -

    "Cannot edit comment after 5 minutes past" is very stupid. What if I wanted to correct a typo or logic error? 5 minutes is way too short. After 24 hours maybe... So now the community knows why we do not post much on this forum. And BTW, the laws in California are very different than the laws in other states, so some of the issues that are pushed do not apply at all in other states.

    B. A. Computer Services -

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Erik Ramazzini

Membro da: 26/04/17

2749 Reputazione

9 commenti

After researching replacement costs through local "fixit" places and Microsoft and cost ranging from $140 to $175 for fan replacement. Decided to take chance on this fan for Xbox one S. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HD3... Take time taking the bottom black plastic cover off once it gets started its easy. The corner by MS logo has tab that seems a bit thicker and took some doing to get off. Followed this guide did not have to do port removal. Once I got main white case off I just took hard drive and optical drive screws out. Just lifted enough to get to tab holding fan onto heat sink. popped them off and then replaced with this unit. Be aware when putting optical drive and hard drive back in place there are plastic tabs that match to holes on motherboard and let the two units sit down all the way. Also If I recall the hard drive goes in first and then  optical drive. 15 minutes from start to finish. Worked like a champ right off! thanks for the awesome guide!

Don -

ACHTUNG!!! Schritt 15 ist UNNÖTIG bzw. hat so wie hier beschrieben womöglich FATALE Folgen für Eure Xbox! (Es sei denn Ihr wollt aus irgendeinem mir nicht ersichtlichen Grund den Kühler austauschen und nicht den Lüfter.) Denn was hier unterschlagen wird: Löst man den Kühler wie in den Bildern gezeigt von der Platine wird die Verbindung zwischen Kühleinheit und Prozessor unterbrochen und die Kühlpaste zerbröselt und verliert jegliche Wirkung!

Der Lüfter lässt sich auch OHNE Ablösen des Kühlkörpers relativ einfach von diesem abhebeln. Falls dennoch der Kühlkörper von der Platine abgelöst werden soll/muss (oder so wie in meinem Fall im blinden Vertrauen auf die Richtigkeit obiger Anleitung unnötigerweise entfernt wurde) UNBEDINGT Prozessor und Kühlkörper von der alten Paste befreien und neue Paste auftragen (Anleitungen hierfür finden sich im Netz).

hypokeimenon -

Es rät sich auf jeden Fall an, die Wärmeleitpaste zwischen Kühlkörper und Prozessor zu wechseln (besonders, wenn sie bereits trocken ist und beim Ausbau zerbröselt), wenn man sich schon die Mühe macht und die Xbox komplett demontiert.

Die Anleitung zum Austausch der Wärmeleitpaste gibt es hier:

Come applicare la Pasta Termica

macminitosh -

Ach ja: außerdem fehlt in der Beschreibung das Lösen der beiden seitlich angebrachten Funkmodule (in neuren Modellen?) und zwei zusätzliche Schrauben (B1 und B2) müssen auch noch entfernt werden, um die Hauptplatine lösen zu können. ;-)

hypokeimenon -

Regulär alles da. Nur separat aufgelistet

Steven Hering -

completely misses steps of the process. screws B1 and B2 are required to be removed to seperate the motherboard, and you didnt mention removing the power supply at all, its just in one step and gone the next. with the help of another barely helpful guide, i managed to figure out enough of it to get the job done. would recommend you use gifs for certain steps.

Typtyr -

noticed this too i might make a guide with improved steps to help future fixers

Hayden -

Excellent detailed description, which I read after, I had figured it out myself, nevertheless spot on, and easy to follow.

james0sn -

what size fan doser it use as i have some leftover 120mm fans but idk if they will fit

lizzie McDonald -