Sostituzione fotocamera Nintendo 3DS XL 2015

Scritto Da: Ryan Butler
  • Commenti: 63
Sostituzione fotocamera Nintendo 3DS XL 2015

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

18

Tempo Necessario

Nessuna stima

Introduzione

Questa guida illustra la procedura di apertura e di sostituzione della fotocamera.

  1. klktHCVYwld2jPbu

    • Assicurati che il tuo dispositivo sia spento prima di procedere. In caso contrario potresti subire scosse elettriche o danneggiare al dispositivo.

    • Disponi la 3DS al contrario. Rimuovi eventuali schede di gioco, cuffie, cavi di ricarica, stilo e qualsiasi altra cosa potrebbe essere connessa al dispositivo.

  2. ItsctXxYnpWHaGbE

    • Usando un cacciavite a croce JIS #0, svita le due viti nere posteriori.

    • Le viti sono trattenute in posizione da un rondella di fissaggio e non dovrebbero essere completamente rimosse.

    My experience indicates that a JIS #1 is more appropriate here.

    John Menden -

    Same here, much more appropriate.

    Jack Wilson -

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    • Quando le viti sono allentate, fai leva sulla cover posteriore.

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    • La batteria è collocato sulla parte di sinistra della 3DS - per rimuoverla, sfrutta la piccola fenditura posta in alto al centro e fai leva con uno strumento non metallico appuntito.

    Also you should remove any SD card at this point

    James Grant -

    Does this battery work on a NEW 3DS XL model?

    Froggy The Frog -

    This guide is for the New 3DS XL, which is called the 2015 3DS XL here on iFixit. If you're asking about the 3DS replacement battery advertised in the iFixit store, I believe it works for both new and old models.

    BabblingFishes -

  5. nCgM35SfWxS1LjiY

    • Con un cacciavite JIS #000, rimuovi le sei viti da 6 mm intorno ai bordi della cover secondaria.

    I used a #00 instead it works better for a model form 2016

    matthewmccreary10 -

    remove the micro Sd card or the shell wont come off and damage the Sd card reader and the connecter

    Tyler Callander -

  6. TIvcQXdAyYfU4Wmr
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    • Utilizzando una pinzetta, estrai con cautela i paracolpi in gomma situati sul lato superiore del 3DS. Rimuovendoli, si scopriranno altre due viti da 6 mm. Rimuovi anche queste viti con un JIS #000.

    Can the rubber bumpers be replaced once you reassemble the 3DS? I'd really hate to have to take them out and never be able to put them back in, if I'm honest...

    Taylor Prince -

    Yep, we were able to put them back in quite easily after repeated teardowns! If they ever refused to stay in for some reason, you could always put a little bit of something sticky on them. (I use scrapbooking tape on my laptop's bumpers.)

    BabblingFishes -

    What happens if I strip one of these screws? How hard would into be to remove them?

    Thomas Ciavattone -

    very hard. i stripped 4 screws on my new 3ds xl and i haven’t been able to get them out. i even bought the precision screw extrator set and nothing the set sucked.

    marco martinez -

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    • Per separare la cover posteriore, sollevala con cautela e allontanala dalle cerniere (in modo da liberare la porta per le cuffie), quindi ruotala verso le cerniere per esporre le schede dei circuiti.

    • Non rimuovere ancora completamente la cover, altrimenti potresti danneggiare il delicato cavo a nastro che la collega alla scheda madre.

    I accidentally opened it and broke the ribbon cable to the r and zr buttons by accident. How do I fix it?

    Spider Soda -

    You have to replace the whole thing.

    Kevin Canto -

  8. qB2QkMgZUY13Oebv

    • Con un paio di pinzette, sollevare le due spine che fissano i cavi a nastro dei pulsanti L/R/ZL/ZR alla scheda madre. A questo punto è possibile rimuovere completamente la cover posteriore e metterla da parte.

    I discovered that there is enough clearance to slide the Game Cartridge Slot assembly out without removing the motherboard. Just remove the two connectors going to the Cartridge Slot assembly and take out the 3 screws holding it down. There were two screws that look like they are holding the assembly down, but they are only holes through the assembly and don’t actually hold it down. At least on the Pokemon version, New 3DS XL that I had.

    Reed Deemer -

    Can confirm, it's leagues easier to do it that way than to go to the trouble of removing the entire motherboard, potentially screwing something up in the process. Thank you so much for sharing this alternative method!

    João Gaspar -

    I third this alternative method for D-pad replacement. To add to the previously noted detail, you also need to disconnect a 3rd connector going to the Cartridge Slot assembly, the one going to the D-pad Board itself which is underneath the Cartridge Slot assembly, which is shown at a later step in this guide. Also, I found I needed to loosen the two screws on the motherboard located nearest the Cartridge Slot assembly in order to get enough clearance to slide the assembly out, as there are two plastic guide stands that hold the assembly in place which the motherboard otherwise holds too tightly to pass. Otherwise, incredibly smooth sailing, minimal connectors removed, and my New 3DS LL import model finally has a working left/right again. Thanks everyone!

    Chris St-Louis -

  9. 4iBjfT6EbMXjfUP1

    • Con una pinzetta, solleva il piccolo sportello di chiusura a cerniera per sbloccare il connettore ZIF che fissa il cavo a nastro del pad scorrevole.

    • Fai scorrere il cavo a nastro fuori dal connettore ZIF.

    Is not the right side, the switch must be pull to the left, otherwise people will brake it.

    DartzSoryu -

    I suggest removing the joystick first, swing to left side, then lift up on ZIF connector from the right. You’re able to pull ribbon cable out easier from the left at that point w/o breaking it, as I did.

    Dylan Riffel -

    2nd the removing of the joystick first via the two screws and to be careful handling the plastic washer underneath. It’s coated with a Teflon type material to aid in stick movement. also use a finger nail over tweezers any change you get. A nail is less rigid with natural give and less likely to break plastic latches. If it doesn’t open from the end you expect, stop, and try the other side right away. Be gently.

    Shiftnumlock -

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    • Con un cacciavite JIS #000, rimuovi le due viti da 8 mm che fissano il pad scorrevole.

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    • Solleva l'involucro del pad scorrevole verso l'alto per rimuoverlo. Ci sarà un minimo attrito, ma non dovrebbe richiedere una forza eccessiva.

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    • Individua la spina terminale dorata con un cavo rosso in alto a sinistra sulla scheda madre. Con le dita, tira con cautela il connettore verso l'alto per rimuoverlo.

    • Utilizza un paio di pinzette per scollegare il connettore a cavo singolo.

    • Non fare come noi: fai molta attenzione a non tirare il cavo rosso.

    MDR j'avais vu cette erreur il y a un petit moment... et vous pouvez ajouter, ne pas casser le connecteur comme sur la photo !

    Sylvain Delreux -

    Use a spudger to remove the red cable plug.

    Luis Leon -

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    • Con delle pinzette, estrai delicatamente i cinque cavi a nastro evidenziati dai loro connettori ZIF lungo i lati della scheda madre.

    • Questi connettori ZIF sono tenuti in posizione per attrito e non sono dotati di sistema di bloccaggio: se si sollevano le alette su questi connettori, si rompono! Si noti che in alcuni modelli il connettore superiore può essere dotato di un blocco.

    • Tre dei connettori dei cavi a nastro sono dotati di alette di bloccaggio in plastica che coprono il nastro per evitare che scivoli. Usa le pinzette per sollevarle prima di rimuovere il cavo a nastro.

    • Quando si rimonta il dispositivo, assicurarsi di ribaltare le alette dei connettori ZIF verso il basso.

    • Sebbene il lettore di schede SD sia mostrato come rimosso in questa foto, la sua rimozione è opzionale per la rimozione della scheda madre.

    Hi,

    Can you pls inform me the purpose of the topmost red marked ZIF transparent flex cable, I wish to repair my N3DS XL but I am missing this flex cable (for which part is this cable relevant).

    Thanks

    Khusro -

    I don't have the model on me for reference, but if I remember correctly, it's for the bottom screen.

    BabblingFishes -

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQY7N9?psc... I believe

    Michael Zaeus -

    I think it should be noted that the upper most ZIF is incorrectly labelled here as one to remove with tweezers and not to try to open the clamp. I did this recently and have now broken my brand new 3ds. This cable is for the digitizer at the front of the bottom screen. So my touch screen no longer works. I now need to carry out a further repair. Just a heads up.

    Simon Lyell -

    Accurate. I have to purchase a new digitizer because of this. I tore the conductors in the cable removing it from the ZIF connector. And I’m really very angry that no correction has been made in the almost 9 months since you posted.

    Sabs Like Labs -

    Sabs Like Labs, can you please share a picture of your connector ? last time I dismounted one I had no problems with this connector but maby there are different versions ?

    Guillaume Blas -

    Zoe, I don’t suppose you would know what part to search for to replace one of these lock-less friction connectors? Before this article posted I partially broke one of mine thinking it had a lock and would like to replace it. The old one still works but I have to fiddle with it to get a good connection now. The one I broke is nearest to the cartridge socket.

    Arie Beugelsdijk -

    &&^& all those tutoriel now is just break my new 3ds &&^& you internet

    xavier delfini -

    I broke my connectors the little gray pieces broke not the touch screen and the joy stick are broken.

    mcoughlin625 -

    Wish I’d read the comments first, messed up this connection pretty bad too.

    bajah -

    Glad I read the comments first! The topmost red connector DOES have a clamp you need to flip up to release.

    BBW -

    I can confirm there are two different versions of the clip. One flips up and just pushes in

    thomas rhymestine -

    As others have mentioned, the topmost red connector HAS A CLAMP that you need to flip up. It seems like the creator of this guide has a 3ds with older board revision. With multiple people already having brought up the issue, the creator should absolutely update this guide to note the differences as others have already broken their devices due to this guide.

    Jason He -

    Can confirm that the top most connector has a clamp on mine as well. tore the ribbon cable taking it out and now my bottom screen touch screen is unresponsive. also if you are on this guide looking to replace the game card reader, i also found out after trying to replace mine … You DO NOT need to remove the motherboard in order to replace it !

    Harry Appleton -

    I swear there isn't a new 3ds XL tutorial out there without wrong steps ending up in destroying your device… Can ifixit confirm they've read the comments and fixed the guide?

    Anrei -

    Then digitizer absolutely should be updated to note, I also broke the GREY clamp off, when treying to remove, and bought a new one.

    I believe this to be the replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WQY7N9?psc...

    Michael Zaeus -

    I also ruined the digitizer connector thinking it had a lock (yes, I failed to read the guide correctly). I ordered another motherboard that cost me $100 (ifixit had none in stock, only option on ebay) only to find out it still doesn't work (now for some reason no button nor touchscreen work which doesn't even make sense since they all have different connectors). Please update this guide to point people to just remove the card reader without taking the motherboard off. I could have avoided all this by just replacing the card reader directly.

    Aristeu Rozanski -

    Wow...ifixit is flat out lying about that top connector. There is no such thing as 2 different board revisions. ALL models have the clamp type connector. If you zoom in you can clearly see the creator has broken off the clamp in the pictures and is misrepresenting it as a friction connector. Unbelievable.

    deepakdamodara -

    I just broke the not clip connectors thinking they were the ones that flip... Please, how can I fix the connectors?

    m4d83112 -

  14. FUosIVbdGfyBwmcI

    • Utilizzando un cacciavite JIS #000, rimuovi sei viti da 4 mm lungo i bordi della scheda madre.

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    • Ruotare con attenzione la scheda madre di 90 gradi verso le cerniere per scoprire altri due connettori ZIF sul lato inferiore della scheda madre.

    • Entrambi sono dotati di fermi che devono essere ribaltati verso l'alto. La chiusura sinistra, più lunga, è nera; quella destra, più corta, è bianca. Sollevare le linguette, estrarre i cavi a nastro e rimuovere la scheda madre.

    • Prestare attenzione al modo in cui i cavi a nastro scorrono nei rispettivi connettori, poiché sono diversi.

    9-15 aren't necessary at all. Its a super easy fix step 16 is sufficient.

    Javier Rodriguez -

    I think you might be confused; this is a guide for replacing the motherboard, not the entire bottom half of the unit.

    BabblingFishes -

    The top says this is a guide for the directional pad though

    Jimmy -

    Oh! Apologies; I didn't realize iFixit duplicated comments for duplicate steps. The message alert directed me to the motherboard replacement guide. Whoops.

    Anyway, as I recall, the card reader was more safely and easily removed once the motherboard was out of the way. But I agree that it was likely doable without. Thank you for the input!

    BabblingFishes -

    What does changing the motherboard do, is it if u like bricked your system or what?

    Josh TRW -

    Agree here. I’m doing the job to replace the lower screen, and connecting these two cables at the corner was the hardest part of reassembly. I would have done the job without disconnecting these.

    BBW -

    Getting the ribbons back in can be a challenge but don’t give up. Pull them taught and try to work at an angle that give you the most length.

    Shiftnumlock -

    Do you know the name of the shorter zif connector, or how to order it? I am talking about the one that is on the botton side of the board,that sometime it is hard to connect the ribbon cable. I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you.

    Marcos Cabral -

    What is the name or how to order the small zif connectors that is on the bottom side of the board, I think it has like 30 pins. Thank you

    Marcos Cabral -

    I just want to swap out lcd screens, what steps can I omit? this is the only bottom screen guide online and so many bricks wtf can’t someone make a video like top lcds there are many.

    joey grimes -

    Update about the commentaries above :

    If your goal is to replace something in the top part of the console, steps 9-15 are still necessary as all of the components up there travel through the R hinge to connect to the main board.

    - Top screen and Audio/3D cable connect to the back of the motherboard shown at step 15 (screen is the left one shown on the illustration).

    - Camera bar connects to the front of the motherboard (step 13, shown as the up-and-rightmost orange connector)

    - Wifi antenna connects to the antenna connector (step 12), probably the easiest to replace without disconnecting the motherboard since it doesn't involve rolling up and threading a flat cable through the hinge.

    Albert Enstein -

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    • Utilizzando una testa piatta da 1.5, rimuovi i quattro adesivi rossi di gomma che si trovano all'interno della copertura.

    • Al di sotto della gomma c'è un adesivo d'argento.

    • Usando una punta PH00, rimuovi le viti.

    Is it possible to get the rubber things back on?

    Juli232 beutlin -

  17. lycSSxCjLqVEDlAU
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    • Dalle cerniere, fai scorrere la parte esterna della scocca superiore in moda da separarla dalla parte interna.

    • Questo passaggio è stato modificato di recente poiché la versione precedente era rischiosa. Diceva di usare uno spudger e di farlo scorrere attorno ai bordi. NON FATELO!!! Le linguette si staccano.

    • La copertura si allenterà e sarà sufficiente sollevarlo.

    In the second picture, you did not list that the removal of two screws were needed, that hold down the boards for the volume/3D controls.

    Chelsea LaFleur -

    just swype the top case UP side is OK

    luyicheng99 -

    DO NOT make the same mistake I did. Just slide the top cover forwards, away from the hinge, and it will come off. DO NOT do what this guide says! It will snap the plastic clips that keep the case together and if you don’t want to pay for a full replacement housing it will be impossible to undo!

    Foam Rais -

    I’d like to echo what Foam Rais mentioned. DO NOT pry the back cover off the display! Simply undo the four screws, close the DS and slide the back cover away from the hinge. If you attempt to pry the back cover off you WILL damage the slide clips that hold it in place!

    boatplugs -

    I will also echo Foam Rais. DO NOT PRY IT! … unless causing unnecessary damage to your stuff is your kink. (I also went in and edited it, but since I has like no rep, I’m assuming it gets reviewed first before going live)

    Russell Haas -

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    • La fotocamera dovrebbe essere libera, basta sollevarla con cautela

    • Il cavo ad essa collegato dovrebbe essere facile da rimuovere dalla metà inferiore del DS.

    • Assicurati di aver seguito la guida per la rimozione della scheda madre, per vedere come si sgancia il cavo della fotocamera.

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, seguire le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Ryan Butler

Membro da: 10/02/16

1695 Reputazione

6 commenti

This doesn't actually show how to get the new camera in, I managed to pull the cable of the old one out but I have no idea how to get the new one through the hinge cover wrapping surround the wires

reubengreen -

In some youtube video I saw that guy rolled new camera ribbon cable and got it through the hinge cover.

Keränen Alexey -

A whole bunch of steps missing the end. First you have to release the hinge: Remove the circuit board that has the arrow keys (4 screws), remove two plastic pieces immediately above (one black square, when removed a transparent thin piece is visible.

Open hinge to near 180. Using probe or bent tweezers or stiff, thin item, push the hinge pin towards the middle through the narrow opening exposed when the plastic pieces were removed. When it touches the display it's far enough, you may have to slightly flex the hinge to release the pin.

You can now release the other side, with the flex cables going through it and the antenna cable. Feed the 3 flex cables into the slot in the plastic as you release the hinge; once it's clear you can pull them through.

Curl the camera cable (it was on top, and attached on the upper side of the corner of the mainboard) and pull it through the rung and hollow ring.

continues...

jesup -

"missing at the end" :-)

jesup -

Now reverse with the new cable - curl it gently to get it into the hinge and through the ring, help pull through with tweezers. Now you can start reversing. Note that the hinge pin needs the screen to be open near 180 to slide back into place. Also be careful when reattaching ribbon cables - the display cable (bottom cable of the 3 in the hinge, the longest one) is easy to put in upside down. Take pictures when disassembling. (contacts for this one go down)

jesup -

I'm replacing my daughters bottom screen and I have a rogue ribbon. I have no clue where it belongs. Any assistance would be appreciated. The ribbon is part is like a L shape with a metal dot on it.

Victoria Bland -