Sostituzione gruppo dello schermo MacBook Pro Retina 13" metà 2014

Scritto Da: Sam Goldheart
  • Commenti: 130
Sostituzione gruppo dello schermo MacBook Pro Retina 13" metà 2014

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

17

Tempo Necessario

1 ora

Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire lo schermo Retina, il pannello di vetro e il gruppo della fotocamera iSight.

  1. ovJZXaUhKXaROGSa

    • Rimuovi le 10 viti seguenti che fissano il coperchio inferiore al case superiore:

    • Due viti Pentalobe P5 da 2,3 mm

    • Otto viti Pentalobe P5 da 3,0 mm

    • Nel corso di tutta la riparazione, tieni traccia di ogni vite e assicurati che ritorni nel suo posto originario per evitare danni al tuo dispositivo.

    For all the screws you use the P5 pentalobe screwdriver?

    Carlos -

    Pentalobe is only for the screws on the bottom cover. The Torx screw driver is for the remainder.

    Fredrik -

    I never, ever, ever considered using anything but the correct tool on the Pentalobe screws. Too easy to strip and void your warranty (if still in effect), as well as make it almost impossible to get inside later for another upgrade or repair. The Wiha P5 Pentalobe screwdriver fits like a glove and costs only about $11 (a fraction of your drive's price)at Amazon.com. Get it!

    marketing -

    I followed this exactly and was able to replace my broken trackpad. I did not have to replace the ribbon OR the battery. However I would suggest getting the ribbon since it’s fairly cheap, as for the batteries I was able to do it with a card only. I didn’t use any heat or the liquid but it takes some time. You really have to work the card in there to release the glue. Also you must be very careful not to bend the batteries or damage them, if you do you must replace with new. This took me about 1.5hrs and my computer works like new. Apple cost for this job was around $450, I did it for $120. Big ups to ifixit for this awesome tutorial, tool set and parts!

    On a side note, only use quality tools, the cheap ones will break or strip the screws.

    Dustin Steward -

    Note that the eight 3mm screws have a shoulder under the head, while the two 2.3mm screws are “full thread”, i.e., there is no shoulder under their heads. It’s important to put the two screws with no shoulder at the hinge of the cover.

    All ten screws require a P5 Pentalobe screwdriver, preferably with a magnetized tip to help hold and position the screw.

    All of the screws have blue “Loctite” thread locker compound on their threads. This is to help prevent the screws from working loose and falling out. Don’t attempt to clean the Loctite from the screws — leave it in place, and it will continue to help prevent the re-inserted screws from working loose.

    When replacing the bottom cover, it is a good technique to insert and BEGIN tightening all ten screws BEFORE fully tightening any one screw. After all the screws have been started, then go around and finish tightening all of them. By doing this, you make it easier to feel that each screw has been started properly, and is not “cross-threaded”.

    doubleclutch -

    This is what I found on my MBP mid-2014 13” Retina. All 10 used the same screwdriver. I didn’t see the blue “loctite” but I also got my computer refurbished.

    Evan Shulman -

    A good technique for starting to thread the screws when replacing them is to position and align the screw, and with the driver, gently turn the screw in the REMOVAL direction until you feel and hear a slight click. This click happens when the leading thread of the screw drops off of the leading edge of the thread in the hole — this is the point at which the threads are properly positioned for engagement. You can now turn the driver and screw in the TIGHTENING direction. This technique will help prevent accidental “cross-threading” of the screw, which will damage the threads permanently.

    Note that this is a useful technique when installing ANY threaded fastener.

    doubleclutch -

    Hi peeps,

    I have a wifi problem on this MBP 13” early 2015 and was pleasently surprised to find your guide to changing the airport card.

    However upon closer inspection it seems that on my MBP (purchased new or so I thought) the 3 antennae seem so have been soldered together at the point where they are clamped to the chassis. I have photos but cannot post here. Can anyone conform that where the 3 antennae wires are held to the chssis by the 2 scew metal support (just before disappearing into the screen hinge), the support is not meant to short the 3 wires together. This makes no sense for 3 seperate antennae wires.

    Any advice /close up photos is welcome here.

    dom

    colonel mustard -

    Tip: Use post-it notes to keep track of screws

    1. Pack of post it notes

    2. Stick screws to the sticky part of the post it note

    3. Write on the post it note which step and what kind of screw it is

    ibash -

    Hi, in order to drain the battery I am running:

    yes > /dev/null

    in 4 terminals, so the CPU maxes out at almost 99%.

    I hope this speeds up the battery draining process.

    And the backlight is at maximum brightness :-)

    You can see the cpu load in Activity Monitor.

    Its draining at 20% per 15 minutes.

    Any concerns about draining the battery in this way?

    Andre van der Ham -

    Something I’ve been curious about, is it possible to upgrade a late 2013 Retina model MacBook Pro, with the improved 16gb ram and i7 processor logic board from the 2015 retina model? I’d be interested to try but not ready to shell out the $500+ to be the first lol

    Chat Dawgie -

    Without rehashing what others have said, I would highly recommend reading through the steps *and* the comments for each before tackling your replacement for tips. Highlights for me were: only disconnecting what actually needed to be disconnected, rotating the spudger to release the track pad cable, a hair dryer worked perfectly fine, and the pencil outline of the battery before you remove. You got this!

    N DesRochers -

    Installation of replacement AirPort card was easier than I had expected thanks to this guide. Thank you.

    chaslaw -

    I use replaced SSD and it was super easy and working great. I can finally upgrade Mac OS with plenty of room to spare and no more low memory alerts. Well worth investment and didn’t have to buy new laptop

    Pete James -

    It's interesting that this tutorial is rated Moderate even though you need to remove the battery. The battery removal tutorial which is basically the same but with fewer steps is rated Difficult.

    Marv Ruona -

    when i pulled the screws out i arranged them in the same way they were in. the top 2 middle screws appeared to be shorter than the rest. in order to keep them in place i got a square of packing tape sticky side up, taped both sides down with 2 other pieces of tape. and then put the screws head down in the order i pulled them.

    Jason Wade -

    Excellent instructions although checking battery and speakers aligned before fixing batteries into place is essential. MacBook good as new!

    John Foreman -

    I find it helpful to spread a soft, slightly fuzzy cloth (like flannel) over my workspace before doing something with small parts. It keeps screws and things from rolling or bouncing away. A towel might be too plush, though, as a screw might get lost in it.

    Richard KeslerWest -

    I cannot get the two screws (that are different than the other ones) out and now they’re stripped. Any idea what to do without using a drill?

    Honeybee94 -

    DO NOT REMOVE SPEAKER CABLES!! The connectors are fragile. Just remove speakers and bend attached cable away from battery. Same for trackpad cable connector at front side. This cable crosses the middle of the battery. Just remove the one connector on the back side - leave front side connector attached and fold cable toward front of computer out of way of battery.

    Paul Lebow -

  2. LeHZGQqOmJ5HNBPs

    • Infila le tue dita tra il case superiore e quello inferiore.

    • Con delicatezza, tira il coperchio inferiore per staccarlo da quello superiore.

    This takes a bit more effort than you might expect. Put your fingers where shown and lift about 3inches. With enough upwards pressure the plastic holders will “pop free” and the bottom will come off easily.

    hamiltont -

    To reattach bottom case I found it helpful to line fingers up with clips under case should snap easily

    Peter Stoll -

    If your old battery has swollen, the lower case may “pop” open. Don’t lose your screws!

    Maxine Loveman -

  3. 3QrmmYdOGiTrsDa3
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    • Il case inferiore è collegato a quello superiore con due clip di plastica in posizione centrale.

    • Durante il rimontaggio, spingi con delicatezza il centro del case inferiore per riattaccare le due clip in plastica.

    This wording I found quite confusing. They just mean when putting the lid back on that you just removed in the previous step, push here.

    Mmm ttt -

    I took my pointer and thumb (which are luckily long enough) to feel where the studs are on the back panel, and then as I put the back panel back on, I pushed in the spot I had marked with my fingers to ensure I was applying pressure only on this part.

    Evan Shulman -

    If you’re doing an iFixIt battery replacement, the replacement battery has two rubber nubs which are right where the clips are that receive these studs. Folks have been saying it’s hard to get the studs to clip back in after replacement, and I had the same issue. I trimmed the top of these rubber nubs, which are a bit bigger than those on the original battery, with some side cutters. That made the fit much better.

    Rob Gorbet -

  4. RjNdjyPoDnNTyyUB

    • Se necessario, rimuovere la copertura in plastica attaccata alla scheda contatti della batteria.

    A plastic foam cover also covers plug and socket and the whole battery. It is easy to remove it from the right side to the trackpad wire that the battery plug is free like shown in the picture. I kept it to use it again later.

    Daniel Brehm -

    I have done tons of these battery replacements.

    You don’t need to do anything on the list after you disconnect the battery, apart from carefully moving the speakers out of the way, and then prise up the battery modules. I just very carefully, and with little even motions, use a large slot screwdriver. Being careful to keep it flat, to not puncture the battery.

    Easy peasy. I have never had an issue after dozens of the tasks…

    davelarose -

    Dear Sir,

    as you seem to be very much experienced with battery replacements you might perhaps give me a hint why after having removed the battery pack successfilly, the keyboard doesn't work anymore after booting the system. The Touchpad works, the keyboard backlight works but typing does not function at all.

    I only disconnected the battery connector and touched nothing else. I am quite desperate …

    Gerd Uyan -

    I agree with Dave la Rose, provided you use heat rather than solvent to remove the old battery (or possibly floss, haven’t done that). Please see my comment further down this thread on how to use an iOpener for correctly heating the glue joint

    I. Margaronis -

    After removing battery contact board plastic. My screwdriver accidentally fell and touched the battery board. And it short circuited. Now my battery doesn't charge. My laptop doesn't work without charger now. shuts after a few minutes of use. Can i fix it without sending it for repairs?

    Phillip Ngwenya -

    Is replacing the battery necessary?

    Ralph Louis -

    How do we know if it's necessary to replace the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board?

    What are the factors that would require that?

    Lux -

  5. Z3NUBtyfmOAH54su
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    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria in verticale dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Accertati di sollevare solo il connettore e non lo zoccolino, per evitare il rischio di danni permanenti alla scheda logica.

    I have a friends MacBook Pro that has some water damage that caused the MacBook not to be able to use battery power, but still work when plugged into A/C. Upon further inspection I can see visible corrosion on a few of the 9 cables going from the battery connector to that small circuit board. Is it possible to just replace that circuit board?

    jramsey21 -

    Sometimes it can be enough to just clean the contacts without having to replace the entire board. Dosent work for complicated IC's like plcc type, where corrosion is underneath the chip. Here you will have to reheat and reapply the IC.

    andrehedegaard -

    When placing the battery connector back into the socket on the logic board, check that every part of connector is pressed down. You should hear a soft click when it's back in place.

    Ethan Tarquin -

    +1

    I thought I made sure it was connected but when running the computer it only detected the battery but couldn’t power it. I had to run with power adapter. Also it didn’t charge. I guess some pins were connected but not all. To verify that all were connected I removed the plastic cover, placed it carefully completely flat, and then reattached the plastic cover. After that it worked!

    Jonas Ehrs -

    Removing the battery connector took a bit of finagling. It wasn’t as easy as one would think. Be very careful when doing this as they warn to not damage it. Otherwise great instructions!!!!

    Peppon -

    Lift from the long, flat side, not the shorter side. In this picture, you should lift from the NORTH part of the connector, not the WEST side like they are doing. This is because you can spread the pressure from lifting the connector across more area, as compared to the side. I accidentally broke off part of my battery connector lifting it up the way shown, but was able to do it the way I described without problem. Make sure to lift from the wide part so you don’t have my same trouble!

    Jaden Salama -

    The connector is no more than 1mm thick… the socket is 3-to-4mm deep so make sure you’re trying to remove the connector itself, and not pulling at the socket.

    Richie Egg -

    Thank you Richie I was trying to lift the socket.

    be careful the little square block is actually made of 2 parts and you only have to lift the upper part as Richie said

    ilyes -

    You can do it from the side like the picture, but i would recommend twisting almost like a screw driver once you have leverage under the overhanging part of the left side like in the picture. Twist the tool so that it starts to put pressure on the top, until you’ll hear it click out. You can be somewhat forceful but it shouldn’t require a lot of strength. Guiding the tool with one hand and twisting with the other is a good way to attempt this.

    Colin Nowers -

    After I put the battery back I found out at this step that the new battery connector was off by 2 mm (because I installed my battery slightly off). Since the connector is rigid, I removed it’s plastic cover (just like we all did in Step 4) to free the cable, which allowed me to bent it enough to properly plug the connector.

    Marc -

    Simple question: why we need to do this, I mean, disconnect battery from main board?

    Bin Zhu -

    Well, I’m reading this step in the battery replacement repair guide, so it’s pretty critical to disconnect the battery from the main board. I’m guessing these steps are reused in other guides where disconnecting the battery might not be such an obvious need.

    surf -

    Also wondering the same. I came here from a link to replace the fan. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery inorder to replace the fan?

    Chris Andrews -

    The connector wires from the battery to the connector are long

    You'll have to bend them downward and into the small cove that exists so the connector can fit in place.
    So use the a plastic card or flat end of the spudger to bend them downward and folded a bit back so the connector will fit in place.
    Use your old battery as a guide for how they should be bent.

    RON BUENO -

    Hi All ,

    I followed the instructions step by step and changed the board successfully and reconnected everything back. When I powered it back on I can see it is charging again however it just displays a black screen and no display. Keyboard light comes on as well and the apple logo light on the back lid also turns on. Not sure what is wrong ? It has been charging for more than 15 minutes and still no joy. Anyone able to help solve or identify the issue .

    Thanks

    Kaleem -

    The connector cover is slightly wider and longer than the socket (<1mm) so there is a small "lip" around the top that can be used to lift it.

    Richard KeslerWest -

    If your are not familiar with those repairs, and as with most of those connections, I recommend to take the time to observe your computer and the pictures from the tutorial, reading instructions and comments before starting each step. This battery connector needs both a bit of force and of precision. For a battery repair the connection of the new battery is a bit more tricky, you need to have your battery in the right position and to force it a bit the connector

    David Obis -

  6. FwTIMvtITSjKBUfL

    • Piega il connettore della batteria in modo che non interferisca, per prevenire un contatto accidentale con lo zoccolino durante la riparazione.

    If you miss or let this step for later like I did, the power left in the battery even though the computer is completely shut down, will screw up the I/O board cable like I did. I noticed this after I put all the pieces back, turn the computer on and surprise, no wifi hardware is detected. -.-

    sebasgaes -

    I put a small piece of blue painters tape on the battery connector contacts to prevent it from accidentally making a connection and shorting. This helped keep things a bit more protected.

    LaymanLab -

    @sebasgaes, shoot, I'm only part way through the process, but I skipped this step thinking it wasn't necessary. I'm only through step 12 right now, but is there a fix if my machine doesn't recognize the wifi hardware after I've put it all back together? I don't see reference to the "I/O board cable" anywhere else in the instructions, so I'm confused about your mention of that...

    jiclark -

    UPDATE: I completed the job, rebooted, and all is well, wifi and all. Thanks anyway; gotta love iFixIt!!

    jiclark -

  7. DioBlndZXMLraGEV
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    • Stacca con attenzione l'ammortizzatore in gomma dal bordo del dissipatore di calore per scoprire il cavo della fotocamera iSight incollato alla ventola.

    • L'ammortizzatore della ventola avvolge il dissipatore di calore e si inserisce nelle fessure del condotto della ventola. Durante il rimontaggio, assicurati di inserire le linguette nelle tacche del condotto della ventola.

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    • Inserisci la punta di uno spudger sotto ciascuno dei cavi dell'antenna vicino ai connettori e fai leva per scollegarli dalla scheda AirPort.

    • I tre cavi sono codificati con guaine nere di diverse lunghezze. Durante il rimontaggio:

    • Collega il cavo con la guaina lunga alla presa centrale.

    • Il cavo con la guaima corta si collega vicino alla vite.

    • Il cavo rimanente non ha guaine e si collega nell'ultima presa vuota, accanto alla ventola.

    This is most difficult and time consuming portion of this entire procedure. Make sure to lift the connectors straight up - not to damage them. The reconnection of the contacts may take several tries. USE CARE AND BE PATIENT! You will eventually get them to connect.

    Darius -

    does anyone have advice on what is the best tool to use for reconnecting? this is definitely the hardest step to reassembly

    M N -

    When reassembling, I used tweezers to line them up and the spudger to push them down.

    Joshua Johnson -

    thank you Joshua, this helped me get them. they do take a bit of patience but it’s worth taking your time.

    Kevin Lynch -

    I got it! line the wire up; push the top part of the metal and give it firm pressure; they should snap in and connect

    M N -

    You'll get 'em in. Work gently. Make sure they're exactly over top the bottom pins. Press down with a flat smudger. It took me a lot of gentle work to get them in.

    Kent -

    I saw the sleeves on these.. and when looking at the replacement display saw they matched exactly and took the chance it was intentional. The only thing that got me.. was the bottom panel screws.. didn't know there were 3 types.. (should have known though, I mean right?! LOL Apple (rolls eyes) They could do like Samsung and use one screw for everything.. but oh no.. there is some OCD engineer that just likes SCREWING with people!

    Tim -

    Pro Tip: When reassembling, do not screw on the metal tab attached to these connectors (part of step 15) until after you have all 3 connected. This gives you uninhibited range of motion for the 3 wires. Go slow as other commenters have said. Start with the shortest wire first. Once all 3 are connected, screw on the metal tab with those 2 screws. Finally double check that all 3 are still connected.

    D B -

    I found an alternative method. That is NOT to disconnect these three tiny wires but instead, leave them attached to the AirPort board and remove the AirPort board itself and let it dangle safely to one side with all three antennae cables attached.

    Mac Neur-Berg -

    @macnb, if you’re replacing the display, which is what these instructions are for, then you *must* disconnect these wires, as the new display includes new ones!

    jiclark -

    Yes you are correct WHEN replacing the WHOLE display/LCD.

    In my case I was ONLY replacing the LCD display CABLE. So in my case it was not necessary to remove the wireless antenna (since I was not replacing them).

    Mac Neur-Berg -

    I remove the screw and pull out the Air Card, then after I get the new screen in I remove the Air Card from the connectors, making sure I notice which goes to which, and reattach them by holding the new Air Card in my left hand then with my right hand placing the connector over the spot where it connect, then using my thumb nail to press down the wire until it snaps. Much easier to manipulate the wires and where it connects with the Air Card out of it Socket.

    Chap Gleason

    Laptops for Missionaries

    Chapman Gleason -

  9. J6E4SliYRQlK5a5Q
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    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per spingere su entrambi i lati del connettore del cavo della fotocamera iSight per farlo uscire dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    First, lift the flat cable just off the board as it is normally “stuck” to the board. This will help the connector to release from the socket.

    John Lopinto -

    Ripped cable from logic board? Step 9.5

    iSight Camera broken off logic board

    jcob -

    I reconnected the iSight cable and now the system doesn't recognize it. How do I find out if it's broken? It looks fine (not burnt or broken).

    chinchilla -

  10. KBRXPiuTdkJ3BDbp
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    • Stacca il cavo della videocamera iSight dall'alloggiamento della ventola.

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    • Afferra l'aletta di plastica nera per sbloccare il connettore del cavo del display ed estrarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    • Durante l'installazione, assicurarsi di rimettere perfettamente in posizione l'aletta del connettore dello schermo.

    This is pulled straight out to the side of the Macbook, not up.

    nmackaron -

    Thanks for adding this comment !

    jrbhome -

    Please use a nylon black stick to lift the lock bar up and push the connection apart reason being is the lock bar should not be pulled on and by pulling on it like shown may cause damage to the MLB/DISPLAY connection and then you’re into not just a display repair but a MLB on top of it!!!

    Dutchie -

    hello, im trying to do this because im experiencing a blackscreen problem. Id like to do this but my macbook looks so different than this one. Could anyone help me?

    Karla Díaz -

    If it doesn’t look like this, you’re looking at the wrong guide.

    maccentric -

    Muchas muchas muchas gracias, lo que hacen es una labor increíble y me han salvado.

    Juan Antonio -

  12. vDVnyDPHyJRJ5VdM
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    • Rimuovi le cover in gomma delle cerniere dalle cerniere destra e sinistra dello schermo.

    What’s exactly the purpose of those rubber covers ? I appear to have lost one of them (the one to the side of the IO board) and I don’t know if I should absolutely get a replacement one or if I can reassemble the laptop without it

    Tim Rault -

  13. AqAGya6LtA2PCwcF
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    • Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 4,2 mm che fissano le staffe delle cerniere in alluminio (una per ogni lato del Macbook).

    I found these to be very tight and wasnt able to move them with the ifixt screwdriver kit, i had to get a t-handle torx 9 bit to move them

    harveyhalfpint -

    Yes they were tight but I managed to shift them with the iFixit screwdriver set

    Steven Fillingham -

    This is 1 screw on each side (not 2 on each side). They are circled in red.

    nmackaron -

    The T5 in the set I bought from LaptopScreen.com was too big and started to strip these screws. Got an Ace Hardware brand one instead and it worked great.

    Brian Hultin -

    Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.

    Mertensa Hens -

    These were T4 not T5 size for me

    Praj Basnet -

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    • Usa un paio di pinzette per sollevare le staffe delle cerniere in alluminio dai cardini destro e sinistro dello schermo.

    • Durante il rimontaggio, la parte verticale della staffa dovrebbe essere in linea con la guida in alluminio al centro del Macbook.

    Vorsicht beim Wiederzusammenbau! Diese Schraube ist bei mir am Kopf abgebrochen, als ich sie etwas zu fest hineingedreht habe. Musste das Teil dann notdürftig mit Klebeband fixieren.

    ——-

    Be careful at reassembling. This screw tends to brake if you tighten it too much.

    Mertensa Hens -

  15. vr6EeuFPEtimL3Ve
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    • Rimuovi le quattro viti Torx T8 da 5,3 mm esterne (due su ciascun lato) che fissano il display al case superiore.

    • Alcuni modelli possono utilizzare viti Torx T9 anziché T8.

    • Se l'adesivo della copertura della cerniera in gomma è ancora sui perni delle viti, usa delle pinzette per staccarlo e rimuoverlo.

    Does these three screws are the same size? Can i mix use these screws during the installing process?

    Michael Kwok -

    On my model, there was a thin piece of translucent plastic covering the left-side outer screws. It peeled off easily. It must be replaced upon reassembly. When removing these two (left-side) screws, a metal assembly securing the antenna wires was released below the screws. It must be replaced before reassembling these two screws.

    Ralph Begleiter -

    The translucent plastic on those screws is the adhesive that holds the rubber hinge covers in place. Sometimes it stays attached to the hinge cover, sometimes it stays on the screws.

    maccentric -

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    • Apri il MacBook Pro a un angolo poco superiore ai 90 gradi e posizionalo su un'estremità sul tavolo, come mostrato.

    • Tenendo il display con la mano sinistra, rimuovere la restante vite Torx T8 dalla staffa superiore del display.

    • Assicurati che lo schermo e il case superiore siano bilanciati e non cadano, danneggiando potenzialmente ogni componente.

    • Rimuovi l'ultima vite Torx T8 rimasta che fissa il display al case superiore.

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    • Afferra il case superiore con la mano destra e ruotalo leggermente in senso orario, verso la parte superiore del display, in modo che le staffe del display passino oltre il bordo del case superiore.

    • Ruota leggermente ilo schermo allontanandolo dal case superiore.

    • Allontana il display dal case superiore, facendo attenzione a eventuali staffe o cavi che potrebbero impigliarsi.

    When replacing the display assembly with a new one, the new hinges may be very hard to move into the 90 degree position. We found it helpful to loop a paperclip into the screw hole of the hinge to facilitate pulling open the hinge.

    Eric -

    Yes also found the hinges to be extremely tight, could not move them with from their initial position with fingers, ended up using a pair of pliers to rotate them enough to get fingers under them

    Steven Fillingham -

    The paper clip is a great tip. I also used the spudger flat end under the hinge and the metal side of the case as leverage to push it up.

    D B -

    Excellent guide, Andrew! I am an ACMT and when disconnecting the eDP cable, I like to use the pointed ends of two spudgers (Apple calls them ‘black sticks’) to push the connector straight back out of the socket by pushing on its edges. This prevents any stress to the locking bar and also helps to ensure that the connector is disconnected evenly. For reassembly, I line up the connector carefully and once the pins are all lined up and the cable connector partially inserted, I push on the back edges on either side of the connector with the pointed ends of two spudgers, ‘walking’ the connector back into place so that it is even on both sides.

    Also, when disconnecting the camera cable connector from the logic board, I use the same method as above, situating the points of the sticks into the notches on each side of the connector and pushing straight back vs walking it back. I do the same thing when reconnecting the cable, but I ‘walk’ it back as mentioned above with the eDP cable connector.

    Ez Bless -

    Also, once I have removed the clutch covers, I remove the two screws holding the metal antenna grounding loop in place (first picture in Step 15 of your guide). I move the loop out of the way and reinstall the two screws just until the heads of the screws make contact with the metal surface of the hinge. I loosen all of the rest of the screws and then tighten them back down just until the screws stop turning (without torquing them). I thoroughly brush off the surface area of the ESD mat where I am going to situate the MacBook for the next step, and then flip it over and open the display 90 degrees. I flip the machine back over and rotate it 90 degrees so that the ‘Apple’ logo on the back of the display lid is facing me, inverted, and the display hinges are much closer to me. After carefully scooting the machine back just until the display makes contact with the edge of the table, I pull the display up toward me to open it fully. I then carefully remove the hinge screws.

    Ez Bless -

    For removal, you simply need to lift up slightly on the top edge of the display (possible once the 6 hinge screws have been fully removed) until it has cleared the recesses of the top case. It can then be lifted out without any hassle and you should not need to use any paper clips as mentioned in previous comments. I hope this helps someone; it is knowledge I have gained from following Apple’s Service Guides and experience from having replaced hundreds of displays in a short amount of time. We are an AASP on a university campus, so display repairs are VERY common (from mostly student customers).

    Ez Bless -

    Excellent guide. My IT guys were scared to touch my mac but I did it myself. Thanks to ifixit

    Soul Reaver -

    Hi all, quick question. As i am inexperienced, I have no idea where to source replacement parts for my Mac Book Pro 13". Could someone give me an idea of where to go to get genuine or generic parts such as a replacement screen, speakers, ect. Thanks for your help. Cheers. Peter

    Peter -

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Sam Goldheart

Membro da: 19/10/12

465140 Reputazione

36 commenti

Dear Ifixit. I just order a display from a mid2014 macbook 13 inch retina, for a friend of mine. Guys congrats. nice support and custumer services. hassle free. Thanks. These is why companies grow huge. Keep it up. I will try to put another other during the week. Thank for everything. I will post my experience with the product as soon is here.!!!!!! Go Ifixit!!!!

Carlos De Bernard -

Shipping to Sweden was super fast. The display assembly was in perfect condition and I am typing this on my repaired MacBook Pro! Whoohoo, thanks ifixit!

conradchristensen -

Thanks for the easy to follow guide! Worked perfectly on my Early 2015 MacBook Pro! Saved me so much money.

strauchler -

sorry your macbook pro is ealy 2015? I run the screen of 2014?

teofilodavid -

Great service, great list of tools required, great advice.

I completed this repair in an hour with the step by step guide. I'm a fairly mechanical guy who usually fixes his own appliances and automobiles, so this seemed simple enough up front. The guide made the entire repair straightforward and without any gaps or questions along the way.

Carlbri720 -

For an unknown reason, a small crack appeared in the bottom right corner on my macbook screen. At first colorful lines started showing up but eventually turned into a black band two inches high across the bottom and on the left side a vertical band cutting off an inch reducing my screen from a 13" to a 10.5". I chose to replace the lid assembly after research because it was the simplest, least risky, and most cost effective, even including purchasing the ifixit toolkit. And now I have the tools to fix more stuff.

This guide was very easy to follow forward through disassembly and back through the assembly. Thank you for additional notes for assembly. The pictures and directions made this very easy to execute and prevent causing more damage.

Thank you,

Bryan McIntyre -

Ordered a screen and tools, received them in the Netherlands in only 2 days. Excellent!

Completed this repair, within 50 mins. Guide was very clear. Battery did not need removal. Two minor issues... despite buying the more expensive A quality screen, there is visible and drop damage on the corner of the outside cover.

Secondly, one of the WiFi antenna wires had been removed slightly uncarefully, meaning that it required some finessing before it could be fitted to the WiFi board antenna connector.

Peter van Es -

Thanks for the comment Peter! We have passed your comment along to the iFixit Customer Support Team. An iFixit representative will be reaching out to you shortly regarding the issue. If you need to contact our support team in the future, you may reach them here: help.ifixit.com

Christopher Fernandes -

Hi, I just bought a used MacBook Pro on eBay, which is in perfect condition apart from 3 small chips in the display, which considering that the machines main use is photography, they can make pixel level image adjustments difficult.

I was looking into getting the used part from iFixit and am a bit confused. With the cable in the iSight camera which is glued to the fan, would there be replacement adhesive on the 'A grade' used part?

Thanks!

Henry Alekna -

With my "A-stock" display there was no adhesive on the camera cable. It wasn't a problem though, because there was some slight adhesive left on the fan shroud from the original cable I pulled off. Doesn't seem to get in the way of anything either way, just lets Apple keep things tidy.

Brandon Goranson -

Thanks Brandon, I will keep that in mind when I do the repair. Thanks for mentioning that you had scratches on an A stock part, from what I have read recently, it further supports my decision to look elsewhere for the part as the postage from America to Australia isn't cheap.

Henry Alekna -

Hi Henry,

I've read your comments and I'd like to ask you if you are considering selling the screen you'll take out of the computer?

Kalman Benics -

Hi Kalman,

Probably best not to, my one actually got knocked against the seat in front of me on a flight a few days back, and it now occasionally gets parallel lines running down the screen, which is one of the first warning signs of failure. I probably won't have the time to replace it until next month anyway, so hopefully it holds out until then.

Henry Alekna -

Guide was great, fixing my display was easy.

That said, the screws in steps 15 and 16 were T9 for me, not T8. Not great if someone buys just the tools they need, and not a kit like I did. (Kit's fantastically amazing, by the way!)

Main bummer: bought an "A-stock" display from iFixit and it has a 5 inch scratch on the back. Still works but I would have expected that to be B-stock.

Brandon Goranson -

Hi Brandon - would you please share what exactly the model of your MBP was? I'm preparing to open mine, and wondering if I should prepare a T9 instead of T8.

kwaya -

MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Mid 2014)

I don't know if yours would be the same but one thing to consider is if you don't plan on keeping the screwdriver/bit then maybe go with the T8 to be safe. It will turn the T9 screw, just not a perfect fit. I don't think it would strip it so long as you're careful. It's a pretty solid screw and torx aren't prone to stripping.

Brandon Goranson -

I followed all the steps to replace my MacBook display, but after installing the new display, when I turn on my mac the screen is all black and won't show anything. The MacBook makes the turning on sound but nothing shows. I connected an hdmi from my tv to the Mac to make sure it wasn't anything that got messed up in the process. Every came up on the tv perfectly but nothing on the screen. Could it be a cable that I didn't connect properly or is it the display that came with problem?

I purchased the screen on eBay and followed the instructions written here.

Algenis Feliz -

I would definitely crack it back open and check the connectors. Could be the display unit but it's worth checking for sure. Good luck.

Brandon Goranson -

I did, it ended up being the display that came damaged. I already returned it and ordered a new one from ifixit, just waiting for it to get in the mail.

Thanks

Algenis Feliz -

Is this P/N: 661-8153? Came from the Apple Service Center with a humongous quoted repair price. I'm looking at replacing it myself. Thanks.

goodspeed1 -

I don't know the Apple part number unfortunately, but you'll find the correct part linked at the top of the guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

I dropped and damaged the lower right corner of the display of my mid 2014 iBook pro 13 inch.The damage resulted in a malfunctioning display. I ordered the A-stock replacement and used overnight shipping. The display was packed well and arrived on time and as described, in perfect condition. I found the repair guide to be comprehensive and easy to follow. I appreciate the wonderful guides you provide and the excellent part service. Besides saving some money, I was able to get up and running within 24hrs and have the fun and satisfaction of repairing it myself!

kskinner -

Great guide had it done in 16 minutes.

John Pastor Jr -

Thank you ifixit. Just replaced the screen on my 14 year old granddaughters MacBook Pro Retina. She is going to be so happy since the screen has been cracked since November of 2016. Your instructions were very easy to follow and makes me look like a genius. (:

James Brichta -

Sam, congrats to these instructions ! You could not have done any better. Feels like magic - its so easy. And its really fun to repair things

following your excellent steps!! Thank you very much !

Oberschrauber -

Absolutely good and informative instructions.

One add-on: screws in Step 15 and 16 may be very tight to remove, need a T8 Torx screw with a large handle, or some gripping treatment to avoid slippery.

Xun -

My display was cracked but still worked. I followed these instructions to replace it and it was very simple, however the screen did not turn on. I double checked the connections and it still would not display. I thought maybe I just purchased a bad display. I reattached my old display and it will no longer turn on. Any ideas?

Gonzo Neko (KitiClub) -

I did hesitate quite longtime before I decide to give this a try because I am a complete novice and never opened a computer not even to remove dust. I finally decided because little by little I have lost too much of my screen. Well, I was afraid I wouldn’t understand some passages and I’d make some bad mistake. But the guide is so perfectly detailed, little step by little step, that it was finally even fun to do it. I was able to have my mac on the run again in about 35 minutes. So cool. Thanks a lot guys!

alemari -

Fantastic instructions. Very well done. One suggestion: a compressed air canister for dust removal.

David Carlson -

Hi, i have a questions, i have a MBP 2015 and i have to change the display the disp on a MPB 2013-2014 work on the 2015 ?

esg -

I found out that you can swap the displays and it will work, but with some issues.

What I encountered so far, is that:

- When turning on the MacBook the Apple logo and loading bar screen will show after a couple of seconds.

- Sometimes the backlight will lock up and will not increase/decrease, this can easily be fixed by “sleeping your screen”, then turning it back on, i set that the lower left corner of the desktop will sleep my screen, so whenever i have this issue i just roll the cursor to that corner.

iSight camera, bluetooth and WiFi works perfectly.

Robert G -

Someone please help! I replaced the display assembly… And, now the brightness/dimmer button and the keyboard light buttons do not work. What did I do wrong? Any particular cables I should we reseat? It’s strange because the rest of the keyboard works fine and the brightness/dimmer buttons register on the screen when I click them but the screen only becomes more pale/lighter in color saturation but not brightness. The keyboard light buttons don’t register and show a square box with a line through it. Not sure what I did wrong .. Would appreciate any advice, please!

Victor Bui -

Super easy to follow guide!! At first I thought it would be a tough fix but this saved me a lot of money (minus having to buy the new lcd $$$) lol

joannahen93 -

Just saved my mid 2014 RMBP from going to recycling as it worked out cheaper to get a new used one than to repair in a shop but gave this guide a go as a last resort, found it super easy to follow and now my mac is back to new! Thank you!

Alex Murdie -

Pretty quick and easy. Pay attention to the display connector - it looked OK but wasn’t tight enough.

Tom Jackson -

Just replaced my sisters mid 2014 screen today, this guide was fantastic! All done in a couple of hours and looks as good as new. Thanks for everything you do!

bren -