Sostituzione gruppo scheda logica nel MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display versione metà 2015

Passo 1

Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 2,2 mm che fissano la copertura del connettore del cavo del touchpad sulla scheda logica.
Rimuovi la copertura.

I'm confused why it's necessary to remove the entire logic board to replace the right speaker?

Don't you just need to remove the I/O board for the right speaker?

Steve Rieck -

Passo 2

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per disconnettere il connettore del cavo del touchpad dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
Torcere lievemente l'estremità piatta di uno spudger è un modo facile per staccare il connettore del cavo da questo tipo di zoccoli.
Attenzione a far leva solo sul connettore e non sullo zoccolo della scheda logica.

Passo 3

Rimuovi il piccolo coperchio di gomma della vite all'estremità del dissipatore.

Passo 4

Rimuovi le seguenti sei viti che fissano il gruppo della scheda logica al case superiore.
Una vite Torx T5 da 3,8 mm
Due viti Torx T5 da 5,7 mm
Una vite Torx T5 da 5,6 mm (color argento e con una testa più alta rispetto alle altre)
Una vite Torx T5 da 2,6 mm
Una vite Torx T5 da 3,2 mm
In fase di rimontaggio, sistema tutte e sei le viti ma aspetta a fermarle la scheda logica finché tutte le viti sono centrate nei loro fori e le porte esterne sono allineate con le loro aperture sul lato del case superiore. A questo punto blocca tutte le viti.

Top left and right screw (red, yellow) are silver, the other ones black.

Peter G - 04/06/19

Screw with blue circle was in a slightly different position on my logic board; the gold plating surrounding it is the giveaway.

prreitz - 17/09/20

This step is really best done after all the cables are removed (Step 40).

maccentric -

On the other hand, when reassembling, keep the screws until this step 29

Patrick Nance -

The red screw above is the same one I had to remove to remove the I/O board back in step 24

Al Moulder -

You should really do this colorblind-proof...

Alessandro Arnone -

Passo 5

I passi seguenti illustrano in dettaglio la disconnessione di questi sei connettori. Accertati di leggere ogni passo, perché questi connettori sono di tipi diversi e si staccano in modo differente tra loro.
Cavo microfono
Cavo altoparlante sinistro
Cavo dati tastiera
Cavo altoparlante destro
Cavo retroilluminazione tastiera
In fase di riassemblaggio, assicurati di aver ricollegato tutti questi connettori e che siano completamente in posizione nelle loro sedi.
Inserisci qui la traduzione

Save this step until you get to step 40

I would wait until after step 39 to remove these screws. Once they are removed, the logic board jiggles around and makes disconnecting the various cables in 31-39 more difficult.

Daniel Christie -

Bild/Schritt 30: Bitte beide Wörter "Lüfters” durch “Lautsprechers” ersetzen

Norbert -

Agree with Daniel Christie. Wait until step 39.

Patrick Nance -

Passo 6

Usa l'estremità di uno spudger per sbloccare la linguetta di fissaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo a nastro del microfono.
Tira fuori dal suo zoccolo, in direzione parallela alla scheda logica, il cavo a nastro del microfono.

This cable was pretty hard to remove at first. I had to gently wiggle it from side-to-side in the socket before it would let go.

Jamie Flournoy - 07/05/21

I had the same issue. This was the hardest cable to remove imo. i was afraid i was going to tear it which as hard as i needed to pull it. I ended up leaving this cable inserted until the logic board was fully unscrewed to give me a bit more wiggle room.

Joseph Dale -

Passo 7

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore dell'altoparlante sinistro e staccarlo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
Accertati di far leva sul connettore del cavo e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Far leva sullo zoccolo può portare al suo distacco dalla scheda logica.
Piega con delicatezza il cavo per allontanarlo dalla scheda logica.

this cable was stuck down, so I had to wiggle the spudger under the cable first to separate the adhesive. Then it came away easily.

Pete Bagnall -

Same here, the cable was stuck down pretty. Thanks Pete, your advice helped a lot.

Al Moulder -

Passo 8

Stacca il nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo dati della tastiera.

I wasn’t able to re-stick my tape during reassembly, not sure if that will cause issues but I’m not sure how to fix it.

aBrightBlur -

Passo 9

Usa la punta di uno spudger per sganciare la linguetta di bloccaggio sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo dati della tastiera.
Accertati di far leva sulla linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata e non sullo zoccolo.
Tira fuori dal suo zoccolo il cavo dati della tastiera. Attenzione, devi tirare in direzione parallela alla scheda logica e non verso l'alto.

The retaining flap broke on me during reassembly. I was careful, but it kind of got stuck. Pay extra attention and if it doesn’t give, don’t force it.

vincentdrummer - 23/02/20

Same thing happened to me. Didn’t really put much pressure either.

meadowsd - 28/12/20

Same there here.. I ended up using some tape to ensure the cable stayed seated upo nreassembly

Alan Dike -

hey its not a kick, take it easy on it. after replacing my battery my keyboard (and not Richards keyboard) and track pad are non responsive, Russell Stewart old neighbour .

Russell G Stewart -

The last picture doesn’t show it but my cable had blue plastic material on both top and bottom, which I had not noticed during disassembly. It slid in nicely but now not sure if it is an insulating material of some kind that should have been set aside?

Bill Klemme - 23/05/20

I can confirm blue colour of cable tip.

Mighty Sashiman - 11/09/20

The retaining flap broke off on us during reassembly also…we (husband/wife team) were very careful, but the center piece just broke out when we applied pressure. the blue material did fit under the cable socket (like a smooth blue ribbon), but without the retaining lock, was unsure it would stay in position. We pulled the tape over it and hoped all would work. Everything seems to be working fine for us.

Ann Brainard -

The retaining flap broke on me as well and caused a near panic. I actually managed to fix it by careful inspection under magnifier and some trial and error with tweezers. The retaining flap itself is comb shaped - a solid edge and then combs that come out between the wires., and apparently just held in by the tiniest of detents. After trying unsuccessfully to push it back down between the wires, I surmised that the gaps in the “comb” side for the wires were sealed loop and that the wires it sat on were open ended. So I eventually ended up lining the flap up as if it were closed, and then carefully nudging it up onto the top wires, which was succesful, and then pushing it back into the open position to get the detents in place. Then to close it after reinserting the cable I walked it down bit by bit by pushing forward and *downward* on each side to help it maintain it’s ‘hinging’ effect. I think frankly you’re better off pushing larger ones like these down with your finger instead of a tool.

Matt Fisher -

To close my retainer during reassembly I ended up using the side of the iFixit spudger. I pressed against the entire length of the retainer in order to apply equal pressure along the whole thing. It seemed to work well.

aBrightBlur -

Passo 10

Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare il connettore dell'altoparlante di destra, sollevandolo dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.
Accertati di far leva sul connettore del cavo e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Far leva sullo zoccolo può portare al suo distacco dalla scheda logica.
Piega con delicatezza il cavo per allontanarlo dalla scheda logica.

There's not much space here to work with. I found it helpful to remove the screws holding down the battery board, which allowed it to be lifted out a bit for easier access to this connector.

maccentric -

I used the tweezers on this and that was very effective in popping this cable out.

Al Moulder -

Passo 11

Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della retroilluminazione della tastiera dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

On reassembly it would be great to have some tips on how to properly locate this connector…it’s kind of fussy.

Bill Klemme - 23/05/20

Thanks for calling this out. I took a picture of the socket after disconnecting. I can see why it might have been less obvious on reassembly.

David Carroll - 30/11/20

Also on reassembly - when putting in the logic board make sure this connector is not underneath. Once you have the logic board in, double check and if needed you can slightly lift up the logic board (like to take it out) and use the spudger to scoop it out.

Jason Joyner - 31/01/21

I found that this was actually really easy to get back on by using my finger instead of a tool, as I could just wiggle it back and forth slightly until I felt it seat. Hopefully using your fingers isn’t verboten - I was strapped in at the time and everything worked out in the end.

Matt Fisher -

the picture is mirrored

Daniel Luescher -

The picture is not mirrored if you see the heat sink that curves to the up and left it is not mirrored.

Will Greider -

Ensure the board is completely lined up when reassembling. The cable is incredibly fragile, and I unfortunately ripped mine when trying to line it up. Avoidable error.

Metz Jnr - 17/10/23

Passo 12

Usa la punta di uno spudger per sganciare il blocco del cavo dati del display e ruotalo verso il lato della porta di alimentazione MagSafe2 del computer.

+(mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen)

Verwende die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Verschluss des Displaydatenkabels nach oben zu klappen (mit dem schwarzen Klebeband zusammen) und ihn in Richtung MagSafe 2-Powerport zu drehen.

Mihály Plajner - 16/09/18

My mid-2015 has a flexible plastic tape on the cable lock bar, pulling the tape up with tweezers easily rotated the locking bar.

prreitz - 17/09/20

Passo 13

Tira fuori dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica il cavo dati del display.
Non sollevare verso l'alto il cavo dati del display, perché il suo zoccolo è molto fragile. Tira il cavo parallelamente alla superficie della scheda logica.
Non toccare con le mani o altri strumenti i contatti sul connettore dati o sul suo alloggiamento, perché potresti sporcare o danneggiare i pin.
Con delicatezza piega il cavo dati del display verso la cerniera del display, per rendere accessibili le viti sulla scheda MagSafe2.

The wording of the instruction: “Pull the display data cable STRAIGHT OUT of its socket on the logic board” could lead to errors. It almost happened to me.

Instead you should word it: “Pull the display data cable parallel to the face of the logic board being careful to keep it straight and NOT LIFT UP on the cable”.

I realize you mention it later in the warning immediately below, however, by first saying “pull the cable straight out” leads to confusion and could lead the user to attempt to interpret “PULL STRAIGHT OUT” as “PULL UP” unsuccesfully only to later notice, maybe after breaking it, that there was a warning.

Wording it properly the first time will make the warning unnecessary.

Robert Habib - 08/09/20

I had the same thought as I almost proceeded without noticing the red text warning.

I especially think the second warning about not touching the contacts on the data connectors should be listed before the instructions on removing it.

David Carroll - 30/11/20

Agree with Robert. Suggest “SLIDE the display cable to the right, out of its socket…” would be less misleading.

prreitz - 17/09/20

I think it bears repeating just how fragile this connector is, particularly on reinsertion. The problem isn’t just technicians touching the connector end; you can damage the pins simply by inserting it slightly out of alignment, or at an angle, because the outermost pins are VERY close to the edge and are very fragile. They have the appearance of being embedded in the connector but they’re actually spring traces just lying on top of it. I managed to bend the southmost pin upwards reinserting it; luckily it flattened out again and worked, but if it had not been possible to do that it’d have been a whole new screen assembly.

Jerome - 14/12/20

I’m pretty sure I inadvertently touched the connectors. Would this cause immediate errors or obscure, difficult-to-diagnose problems later in life ? Also strongly suggest using magnification when disconnecting and reconnecting this connector and others to ensure proper alignment. As Jerome said these are some of the most fragile parts of the system.

Matt Fisher -

I'm jumping on the bandwagon here and saying that yes, pull the cable out towards the right (where the MagSafe connector) and not up. I also found using the tweezers made this easier.

Big fan of the tweezers.

Al Moulder -

I can't stress this enough - again: This connector is extremely fragile. After changing the right speaker and putting everything in place my display went black. Gone. Tried with the display data connector's"out an in again" very carefully - nothing. The professional technician at the service shop I asked told me he wouldn't touch that particular connector ever again.

I mean, why the logic board disassembly? Only because the speaker's cable is placed under the logic board? Why not cutting the old cable without removing the logic board and putting the new speaker in, placing the cable on top of the logic board? To avoid the necessity of disconnecting the display data connector at all costs?

Thomas -

Passo 14

Rimuovi le due viti Torx T5 da 4,0 mm dalla scheda MagSafe2.

I didn’t take these out - just lifted the mainboard away and set it to the back while I removed and replaced the left speaker.

Troy Havard -

on my Mid 2015 MBP the MagSafe 2 board is wired to the logic board on the underside (keyboard side) so the screws had to come out. The following photo showing the logic board coming out does not show the MagSafe 2 board, so there is clearly some variation between these models.

Richard Bugg -

Richard, mine too.

prreitz -

Passo 15

Solleva e tira fuori dalla parete interna del case superiore l'intero gruppo della scheda logica.
In fase di rimontaggio, accertati di allineare le varie porte con le rispettive cavità nel case superiore.

When reassembling, be careful not to leave any cables (such as keyboard backlight connector, step 36) under the board.

Andrey Pirozhenko - 10/04/20

I had to tape most of the cables out of the way while reinstalling the logic board, because they kept returning to their plugged-in shape under the logic board as I tried to position it properly.

Jamie Flournoy - 07/05/21

Also, make sure to align the right (and left) I/O properly, making sure the tabs on each port are underneath the lip of the aluminum frame. In my case, I couldn’t push the logic board far enough to align the screws until I had done this.

Alek Curless - 09/05/20

Yes. This step is crucial. Thanks for pointing it out!

jonvdez - 26/06/20

I was struggling to align it and was beginning to get frustrated. I had to look back at photos to make sure the tabs had to go under the lip of the aluminum frame. Unfortunately I read your comment after the fact. Thank you.

Robert Habib - 08/09/20

if you’re only removing the right speaker, no need to remove the logic board. Simply lift the edge of the logic board to remove the speaker cable.

Gareth Jones - 17/01/21

I had to remove one of the screws from the battery board before the logic board had enough clearance to lift up.

Jim Guyton - 09/03/21

We (husband/wife team) just slid the logic board out to right, and did not entirely remove. For reassembly, we reviewed all the cables and made sure they were positioned out of the way, or taped back, before repositioning the logic board back into position. Worth it to review before getting it back into position.

Ann Brainard -

There are 2 more screws to be removed before the motherboard comes out. One were SSD was and one at 40 Degree position to right fan. It has a golden base ring. Easy to spot

anupraje -

Yes, I missed those two screws from Step 29 -- funny that we both missed that!

kevin -

Does the logic board prevent us from removing the battery? I’m trying to figure out why we are removing it.

John Sikking -

I agree John, tearing everything out is more of a risk then could be done ungluing the battery

Russell G Stewart -

Because the acetone can damage the board and connections -- in case of accident ;)

kevin -

why is the heatsink still attached?

patjmccarthy -