Sostituzione gruppo scheda madre MacBook Air 13" metà 2013

Passo 1

Afferra l'aletta di plastica attaccata alla staffa di bloccaggio del cavo dello schermo e ruotala verso la parte superiore del portatile.

Passo 2

Tira il cavo dati dello schermo per sfilarlo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.
Assicurati di tirare il cavo parallelamente alla scheda madre, non tirarlo verso l'alto dalla sua presa.

Passo 3

Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per fare leva sui entrambi i connettori del cavo dell'antenna e scollegarli dalle loro prese sulla scheda AirPort/Bluetooth.

One of my terminals is broken. What solutions do you recommend me

Omar Lopez - 27/09/16

You’re actually pushing the connector from side to side toward the front of the case (or towards the track pad). It’s not a vertical motion at all.

Jay Quilty - 03/10/18

I’d also mention to be careful taking these off and putting them back on. I also accidentally pulled a terminal off it’a cable.

Jean-Pierre Bazinet - 21/11/18

If the process is taken to replace the top case, you can leave the AirPort card hanging from the antenna wires. Only remove the card’s retaining screw and slide the card to the right (direction of the antenna connectors) to separate it from the main board.

Yishai Sered -

Passo 4

Scollega il connettore del cavo della fotocamera con la punta di uno spudger.
Spingi prima un lato del connettore, quindi l'altro per farlo scorrere attentamente fuori dalla sua presa.
Tira il cavo della fotocamera parallelamente alla scheda I/O verso il bordo anteriore del MacBook Air per scollegarlo dalla sua presa.
Non tirare verso l'alto questo cavo mentre lo scolleghi: la sua presa sulla scheda madre si potrebbe rompere.

You’ve missed a whole section here on removing the fan. It’s still present in Step 19 pics, but gone by Step 23. It’s not that it’s difficult to work out how to do it. But, when reassembling and following the steps in reverse, it’s handy to know when to use which screws!

Stuzzington Botulism - 30/05/18

Ah! –my bad. The steps for removing Fan etc. are there –up round Step 13. It’s just your photos that are slightly out of sync, as it’s back in place again by Step 19. So, while working in reverse, it looks like it’s not been covered.

Stuzzington Botulism - 30/05/18

On getting it on — i feel it's implied by the word "push” you can walk it out with the spudger. I couldn't wanage that, and instead walked it out by taking the cord between my index and thumb and walking it out by pulling it to the right and then the left repeatedly in a

Elijah Kennedy - 12/10/20

Passo 5

Usa la punta di uno spudger o un'unghia per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo a nastro del trackpad.
Assicurati di far leva sull'aletta incernierata e non sul connettore stesso.
Tira il cavo a nastro del trackpad parallelamente alla scheda madre verso il bordo anteriore del MacBook Air per scollegarlo dalla sua presa.

Passo 6

Usa la punta di uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo a nastro della retroilluminazione della tastiera.
Assicurati di far leva sull'aletta incernierata e non sul connettore stesso.
Usa lo spudger per sfilare delicatamente il cavo a nastro della retroilluminazione della tastiera dalla sua presa.

Do you know where i can buy the retaining clip ?

Jo (MemePasGame) - 19/03/18

Not sure you can. I’d just use some kapton tape to hold it in place and call it good.

maccentric - 08/11/18

Passo 7

Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per fare leva sul connettore dello speaker destro e scollegarlo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.
Consigliamo di fare leva da sotto il cavo.

What is this cables for?

great.ryankim - 24/05/19

It’s a speaker cable

maccentric - 01/11/19

This is the one that gave me the hardest time!!! It does pop up and out tho.

Edward Mills - 08/07/20

Passo 8

Svita le sei viti Torx T5 da 6,3 mm che fissano la scheda madre alla scocca superiore.
Su alcuni modelli queste viti sono delle Torx T5 da 4,1 mm.

When re-assembling the motherboard, attach all 6 screws but do not completely tighten yet.

First make sure the rubber gasket is sitting properly, that the 7th screw hole (from Step 18) is properly aligned, and the Airport wire is sitting properly and also not caught under the heat sink.

Once everything is well aligned, start tightening the screws while watching out for the alignment. I found it useful to keep an eye on screw-hole from Step 18 as a reference.

Rany -

Going in this order, there is a 7th screw securing the logic board to the frame; the heatsink is secured to the logic board with 4 screws, and secured to the frame with 1 more screw. Either take the heatsink off first, or remove that last screw underneath two small black wires, next to the left (as viewed when using the computer; if the computer is flipped over with the cover off and the monitor hinge end of the computer farthest from you, it is in the far right corner) set of three big torx screws that hold the hinge in place. The exact location of this screw is pictured in step 35's second picture; the screw goes through the loop visible below the rubber fan insulator. Scoot those 2 li'l wires out of the way and remove that screw, then the logic board comes right out. If this isn't clear, please let me know and I'll try to describe it better, or add a photo. If I'm posting this to the wrong instruction page, let me know; I was pretty sure I correctly identified my rig, but if not, sorry for the N00bage.

Fox MacLeod - 22/03/15

I got an extra screw hiding under the rubber gasket holding the end of the heatsink to the chassis. Ended up bending the heatsink a little cause I wasn't looking for it.

Corvallis Computer - 22/10/15

In the model I was working on, the 6th screw (in the middle) was hiding under the Samsung RAM module. Simply remove the one T5 screw holding it in, slide the RAM module out, and the 6th screw will be exposed.

Tim - 17/12/19

“Samsung RAM module”… do you mean the SSD? That stick of NVRAM is totally your hard drive.

FeRD - 23/01/20

Exactly, he means SSD (storage) the RAM (memory) is soldered to this 820-00165 logic board. Also on this model the 2015 MBA there is no logic board retaining screw under the SSD

Peter Newman - 08/06/20

Passo 9

Svita le due viti Torx T8 da 4,9 mm più interne che fissano il supporto del cavo dell'antenna e la cerniera sinistra alla scocca superiore.

This is the same screws as step 17.

Joseph Lee - 12/02/17

In both the online and the PDF version, Steps 17-18 and Steps 29-30 are identical. At which stage should you actually remove the display screws?

adlerpe - 15/02/17

Good catch! We did some sleuthing and it looks like a couple guides did indeed have an extra section of steps! All better now =)

Sam Goldheart - 16/02/17

In my computer these screws were the same size as the other side’s hinge screws. All 6 are the same size.

Yishai Sered -

Passo 10

Sposta leggermente il cavo dell'antenna per svitare la vite Torx T5 da 3 mm che fissa un'estremità del dissipatore alla scocca superiore.

This step is not needed

mayer - 11/07/18

It’s not clear what you mean by “This step is not needed.” If you want to remove the logic board from the upper case in order to put it onto your replacement upper case, you will have to remove this screw.

Richard Garella - 04/11/18

This step is only needed if you’re replacing the ENTIRE top case. Simply swapping out the trackpad unit does not make this step necessary. This entire tutorial assumes you’re replacing the entire top case which is an expensive mistake if you’re simply replacing the trackpad and/or keyboard. The keyboard is removable as well despite those many tiny rivets. Save money and time by not replacing the entire top case for a bad trackpad and/or keyboard. I needed to accomplish this step because I also removed and replaced the keyboard.

airshack - 05/01/19

NOTE: There is a sort of clamp/washer attached to this screw that I didn’t know about until I flipped the laptop up on its side and it fell onto the desk. Also: you need to reset it *before* the motherboard

Edward Mills - 08/07/20

In my computer this screw was not there, nor was a related washer. I got it used so perhaps someone has already been there and did not replace the screw.

Also, the photo here shows how this end of the fan gasket is placed

.

Yishai Sered - 31/08/21

Passo 11

Infila la parte piatta di uno spudger sotto allo speaker destro dall'estremità più vicina alla cerniera e fallo scorrere verso il bordo anteriore del MacBook Air per tagliare l'adesivo.
Rimuovi lo speaker destro dal case superiore.

You don’t really *have* to remove the speaker, especially if your replacement upper case assembly already includes the speakers.

Alexander Zub - 05/11/17

I found the same. If you already have speakers in your new upper case, you can leave them. When you put the logic board back in, it will be a tight fit. I had to start with the corner near the right hinge (the Thunderbolt port corner) and work it in to place.

Richard Garella - 04/11/18

If your keyboard and/or trackpad need replacing you do not have to replace the entire top case.

airshack - 05/01/19

If it is difficult to remove the speakers you can use Isopropyl Alcohol to loosen the adhesive holding the speakers in place. Make sure to keep the Isopropyl Alcohol away from the speaker itself.

BluRepairs -

Passo 12

Rimuovi attentamente la scheda madre dalla scocca superiore, stando attento ai cavi che si possono impigliare.
Durante il rimontaggio:
Tieni i cavi lontano dalla scheda in modo che finiscano bloccati sotto la scheda.
Assicurati che i cavi dell'antenna siano infilati nelle rispettive rientranze, come evidenziato nella seconda immagine.

It’s probably worth mentioning here that during reassembly you want to tuck the rubber gasket under the extension of the heat sink that the fan slots into.

David Bonner -