Sostituzione scheda logica iPhone 6 Plus

Pentalobe P2

I prefer to remove the SIM card as the very first step since it's safer to do so while the phone is fully assembled.

I stripped one of the two screws - at a dead stop.

Use clear nontextured tape place that over the phone screen. Refer to any guide that addresses replacing a shattered screen

I know it's tough with cracked glass. You just need enough to get in a plstic pry tool or guitar pick. Then you can pry it apart. Just be patient, I cannot stress that enough; the electronics are very, very small and fragile.

With the sucker, the opening is brutal, everything was cleared at once. Pay attention. (Paul’s comment translated by Google)

May need to burp the sticker before it sticks. Need to let the air out. Once Idid that, no problem. Except it was still hard to get the cover to start up.

Be extra careful here. If you don’t take your time, your front panel may jerk back on you, causing you to overextend and break the front camera/mic flex cable; happened to me. Slowly peel back the front panel, opening it no more than 90º.

watch out for the left side of the phone the adhesive bunches up around the inner clips, i didn’t realize it and the upper left of my screen cracked pretty bad. But this guide is awesome follow every direction to the letter

Note: this comment is written for the iPhone 6 Plus, but may also apply to other models of iPhone.

Disassembly:

The clips in the rear case attach to small slotted shapes under the edges of the display assembly, and these attachment points alternate from one side to the other. Moving from bottom to top, gently pulling the rear case away at these points will help to separate the two halves without using too much force.

Reassembly:

Ensure that the plastic clips along the top edge of the front panel (shown in step 8) are fitted properly inside the rear case, then gently press the display assembly into the rear case at these points, moving from top to bottom. There may be a small click sound as the clips in the rear case engage with the slots on the display assembly, and the rear case should fit flush with the edges of the display assembly.

There is an adhesive strip all along the edge between the top and bottom of the phone. Is that just adhesive or is it wire of some sort?

@lingerling The adhesive strip was introduced on the iPhone 6s and 6s Plus (one model year later than what’s shown on this page). Guides specific to each model can be found here—be sure to use the correct one for your particular phone. And yes, just adhesive, no wires. ;)

Be careful If we leave the screen connected and set it to 90 degrees, the speaker / sensor flex may break. With an opening of 60 degrees it is convenient to completely disconnect the screen. The headset's flex is short, and if we put it at 90º, it can break. Guiding me from the images of iFixit, I have broken two cables.

Español:

Cuidado. Si dejamos la pantalla conectada y lo ponemos a 90 grados, el flex del altavoz/sensor puede romperse. Con una abertura de 60 grados es conveniente desconectar enteramente la pantalla. El flex del auricular es corto, y si lo ponemos en 90º , se puede romper. Guiándome de las imágenes de iFixit, se me han roto dos cables.

At 60º the display will block access to all the screws and the phone would be practically unserviceable, so I’m having trouble making sense of this comment. The cables on a factory original display are pretty tough and designed with enough slack that a 90º angle is no problem. Same with any decent aftermarket display.

If you look at the enlarged image, you can see how the flex cable from the camera / speaker is in tension. This is my opinion. Sorry for my bad English

Si usted se fija en la imagen ampliada, puede ver cómo el flex cable de la cámara/altavoz está en tensión. Esta es mi opinión.

Perdón por mi mal inglés

I would recommend protecting the screen once the display is free and the suction cup has been removed. This will help avoid any possibility of accidental scratching of the display crystal while the remaining steps are being performed. I used an inexpensive screen protector then removed it after reassembling and testing are complete.

for the iPhone 6 Plus, all screws were Phillips #000

I had difficulty removing the 3.1mm (iPhone 6 Plus / Phillips #000); had to give it significant downward pressure to get it started.

stripped the 2.3mm screw attempting to remove, had to use excessive force to successfully remove

It was the foam connector, and it did twist free with a gentle pull

you may consider placing a thin non-conductive item between the connector and the socket like a bit of rubber band to prevent any power flowing during this procedure

It was too close to other parts to pry up with either end of plastic tool. Finally used 1 tine of tweezer to lift edge. Came free easily

J’ai pris une loupe pour bien observer l’endroit où placer l’outil.

I used the 000 bit from the ifixit 54 piece kit.

Why does the screen need to come off?

Because the cables are delicate, and following steps are easier if phone halves are not flopping around together, especially for amateurs.

I don't know if anyone will see this but here it goes: for the life of me I can't get the front-facing camera and earpiece speaker connector to seat. Everything else went back together fine but this one connector will not go in. Sometimes it seems like it's in even though it doesn't really pop in and it'll kinda sit there for a sec and then it pops out.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated, thank you

The piece of advice about power cycling the phone by disconnecting and reconnecting the battery proved crucial to the success of my repair (camera and lens replacement). At first when charging the phone after closing it, I got a dark, blank screen with an intermittent buzzing noise. After re-opening the phone and making sure all cables had been properly reconnected, I ignored the advice to power cycle the phone. Still all I got was a dark, blank screen (and intermittent buzzing if charging t). Then I opened it a third time (leaving the screen connected and attached at a 90 degree angle) and I only disconnected and reconnected the battery. Voila! When I closed the phone and powered it up, I got the screen to light up!

After replacing the battery, the phone seems dead. I thought it just needed recharging so I left it charging all night. Still dead in the morning. Now I think it might be because the display data cable is off, and I should open the phone and check it. But the battery might be on full power in that case, and they don’t advice to open the phone when battery if full. What can I do?

some images and guidance regarding reassembly would be helpful. You don't need to use the spudger to get them back on: fingers are better because there's a really subtle click you feel when you get them seated properly.

This is not the top cellular antenna.

Is this cable connector replaceable? I seem to have misplaced it when putting the phone back together. Actually don’t remember taking it out, but must have.

One of the two 1.6 mm screws is covered by a black sticker fwi

Thank you for teaching me, i have my iphone 6 plus just got grayed wifi and circling bluetooth, i tried network reset, didnt work yet, thanks alot

Both on my original and on my replacement, there was adhesive on the underside of this connector and it blended in with the color of the speaker (instead of being gray, as in the photo), so that it looked like it was attached to the speaker itself. In reality, it is part of the lightning connector and headphone jack assembly that is being replaced and that is stuck to the case (cf. steps 34–38). If yours is similar, go ahead and peel it off of the top of the speaker now, and the speaker will come right out when you get to that step.

These two screws are stuck on my phone. Does anyone have any suggestions for loosening them. The heads are becoming stripped the more i try to take them out. I appreciate any suggestions

if you have some spare crummy screwdrivers - like the kind that come with the replacement screens - you can try supergluing it. You just have to be super careful and not get glue anywhere else. make sure you have the screwdriver set in the screw as snugly as possible and let it sit a day or two before you gently try to unscrew it. You can google that method.

There's a few common methods for this issue.First let me say that not all the screw heads are the EXACT SAME SIZE.You strip the screws when you use a driver that is too small so let's get that out of the way first so that you don't have this problem in the future.

Now,Method one: use a rubberband

Method two: A brass Penelope or the higher end kind,Not the little black ones that come in common kits but the ones that come with slightly better kits for example they are usually orange.You must first try constant firm very firm that is,pressure when extracting.You want to basically gouge a pentelope head into the screw,if head on fails then go to an angle after that.Be extremely careful with this method as it's better than the rubberband and I find it's always worked for me,You gotta remain careful when doing this or you might end up slipping and causing catastrophic damage to the board.

GoodLuck

In my case, the rear facing camera was connected to the antenna clip with a piece of black tape, the two can come off together if removed very carefully

On my iPhone 6+, the screw removed in step 41 had to come off too as the part number A21-2247A is attached to this cover… seems to have a tiny coil or other component connecting the (ground) post at the 1.6mm screw in step 41

Apparently the antenna clip in step 41 has self adhered to my rear facing camera cover… had I not already removed the screw from step 41 it would have broken when I pulled that cover with just two screws off

WARNING:

When doing this step 35, you must do step 41 (Simply undo the small screw under “One 2.3 mm Phillips #00 screw “ as well) .

Step 42 shows a ribbon. This ribbon seems to be stuck on the rear-facing camera bracket (step 35).. so pulling rear-facing camera bracket off  , be careful it is not adhered and pulling off Step 42 ‘s ribbon!

It is electronic and a ribbon.

hallo,

ich habe versucht das Gehäuse zu wechseln, dabei ist mir diese schraube der Plastikklammer im Gehäuse kaputt gegangen, heißt der Schraubenkopf ist rund. Ich habe es auch schon mit Sekundenkleber versucht, hat aber auch nicht geholfen.

Da wollte ich jetzt wissen welche Aufgabe die Plastikklammer hat und ob man die sich irgendwo bestellen kann.

Mfg

Hello

My iPhone After opening the security screw Antenna

Please help me find the antenna does not find

You may need this part… on mine it was stuck enough to the rear facing camera cover that it almost broke when I tried to remove the cover before taking this screw out.

WARNING

This should be done in Step 35!

This ‘clip’ is a small ribbon with electronics on it. Be careful.

This clip can be adhered to the Step 35 part removal. Careful to not rip it.

WARNING

Antenna connector under top end of the board is what is being shown here, simply pry it down to disconnect it and you won’t have to flip the board up so high as seen in the photo.

To reinstall, you then have to lift the board up somewhat to align it, and use tweezers. (careful the tweezers doesn’t touch a component on the top of the board)

When replacing the Logic board don't forget to check the top two connectors above the battery to make sure that they are free and clear to replace on the board when the time comes.

Advice on reassembly

Look carefully with reading glasses at the ribbon connections. Make sure there is no damage or any spec inside the connection. To put together a ribbon onto the board, start with a side and press down. LOOK at the connection carefully and take your time. IF you align it on top of it instead of starting on a side, then press down and lift the phone up in different directions to see different angles of the ‘fit’. You want it flat and not have a side of the connection sticking out of the board at all. You will reassemble the phone and have lines on the screen or abnormal operation if you don’t be careful and attentive with the cable connections.

Make sure the grove the display fits in - is clean. Make sure the grove of the display is clean.

Make sure you have mapped out where the screws go… they are different sizes, and head shapes.. look for a washer on one of them.. very top left wifi black plastic part. (Step 24 =red)

Step 29-30 .. 2 springs under it.

Step 42 & 35 done at the same time.