Sostituzione scheda logica iPhone 7 Plus

Scritto Da: Jeff Suovanen
  • Commenti: 185
Sostituzione scheda logica iPhone 7 Plus

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

45

Tempo Necessario

40 minuti - 2 ore

Introduzione

Segui questa guida per rimuovere o sostituire la scheda logica difettosa del tuo iPhone 7 Plus.

È importante notare che ogni scheda logica e ogni sensore di impronte digitali Touch ID sono accoppiati in fabbrica, quindi con la sostituzione della scheda logica si disabilita il Touch ID, salvo installare un pulsante home sostitutivo che sia stato correttamente accoppiato alla tua nuova scheda logica.

  1. lmhcoVgsVMmGK1sw

    • Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere se viene perforata accidentalmente.

    • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.

    • Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe da 3,4 mm sul lato inferiore dell'iPhone.

    • L'apertura del display dell'iPhone comprometterà le sue tenute impermeabili. Prima di procedere con il prossimo passo, dovrai procurarti guarnizioni sostitutive; se in fase di rimontaggio non procederai a questa sostituzione, dovrai poi prestare una particolare cura a non esporre il tuo iPhone a danni da liquidi.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff -

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    iHelpU.Tech -

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter -

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam -

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar -

    Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Sostituzione guarnizione adesiva display iPhone

    bester -

    I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

    Charles Meitin -

    Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

    My favourites are:

    Use a hot water bottle.

    Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

    Test the lightning assembly at step 13

    There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.

    etc...

    Neil Eriksen -

    A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.

    Herb

    Herb Adler -

    The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.

    Gareth Flandro -

  2. 6UPwoloGBO4tmVoS
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    • Se inserito troppo a fondo, un plettro per l'apertura può danneggiare il tuo dispositivo. Segui i passi di questa guida per segnare il tuo plettro ed prevenire eventuali danni.

    • Misura 3 mm dalla punta del plettro e segna questa distanza con un pennarello indelebile.

    • Puoi anche segnare gli altri angoli del plettro con altre misure.

    • Alternativamente, ferma con del nastro adesivo una moneta al plettro a 3mm dalla sua punta.

    Got to step 2 and realized the fix kit doesn't include an opening pick! Looks like a guitar pick, and I have those lying around. Is that expected? Looks like the pick is used in many steps below. There's a little blue crowbar that isn't mentioned in the instructions. Perhaps that replaces the opening pick?

    Sloan Looney -

    Hi! I can't see which guide you were using when writing this comment. Can you reply here with which guide and fix kit you used?

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    I see you posted this in Meta. I hope it's resolved soon! In the meantime, a guitar pick may work well enough for your repair.

    Clay Eickemeyer -

    what fix kit?

    Meow Purr -

    My fix kit didn't include an opening pick either

    WILLIAM HARRIS -

    Make sure you check inside the black boxes after emptying them. My pick was stuck inside one of the boxes.

    AndyF -

    My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

    Gijs Leegwater -

  3. uSKuDUqkPXShJGIe
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    • I prossimi tre passaggi ti spiegherano come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, uno strumento che abbiamo studiato per rendere la procedura di apertura più facile. Se non stai usando l'Anti-Clamp, salta questi tre passaggi e continua con un metodo alternativo.

    • Per istruzioni complete su come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, dai un'occhiata a questa guida.

    • Tira la manopola blu verso la cerniera per disattivare la modalità di apertura.

    • Posiziona la ventosa vicino al bordo inferiore dello schermo: una davanti e una dietro.

    • Spingi sulle ventose in modo tale che possano fare presa sull'area desiderata.

    • Se trovi che la superficie del tuo dispositivo sia così scivolosa da impedire all'Anti-Clamp di aderire, puoi usare del nastro adesivo per formare un superficie più aderente.

  4. TWCRek6KAd4BXPEo
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    • Tira la manopola blu in avanti per bloccare i bracci.

    • Gira la manopola in senso orario di 360 gradi o fino a quando le ventose iniziano ad allungarsi.

    • Assicurati che le ventose siano allineate fra loro. Se dovessero iniziare a scivolare, allenta leggermente le ventose e riallinea i braccetti.

  5. 1UMWDAgvEgkQkwPM
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    • Scalda un iOpener e infilalo tra i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.

    • Puoi usare anche un asciugacapelli, una pistola termica o una piastra calda, ma troppo calore può danneggiare lo schermo e la batteria interna, quindi procedi con attenzione.

    • Piega l'iOpener in modo che poggi sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone.

    • Attendi un minuto per dare all'adesivo una possibilità di staccarsi e formare una fessura di apertura.

    • Inserisci il plettro di apertura nella fessura.

    • Se l'Anti-Clamp non dovesse formare un'apertura sufficientemente ampia, applica più calore sull'area e ruota la manopola un quarto di giro.

    • Non girare più di un quarto di giro a volta, e aspetta un minuto tra un giro e l'altro. Lascia che l'Anti-clamp e il tempo facciano il lavoro per te.

    • Salta i tre passaggi successivi.

    it looks like a....

    Gergely Soki -

  6. HWFBtehBMjCQcFAc

    • I tre passaggi successivi mostrano come separare lo schermo utilizzando una ventosa.

    • Il riscaldamento del bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che blocca il display, semplificando l'apertura.

    • Usa un asciugacapelli oppure prepara un iOpener e applicalo per circa 90 secondi al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.

    No hair dryer so GENTLY heated over stove burner

    John Toth -

    Hello,

    What temperature is suitable for removing the front display ? I bought i-Fixit ProTech which is not include the heating "roller" . Thanks for help

    Jiří Sítko -

    Ich habe eine heiße Wärmflasche verwendet. Das hat gut funktioniert :-)

    Moritz Hartges -

    I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

    Nate B -

    If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

    Pete P -

    I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

    Adam Yavner -

    I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

    terrelldoc -

    I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

    Matt Brown -

    I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

    Paul Aron -

    I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

    John Barker -

    Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

    tripmusic -

    The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

    John -

    I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

    John Noble -

    No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

    John Noble -

    Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

    John Noble -

    . . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

    John Noble -

    Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

    Matt C -

  7. VRy3fVrOovwUCabE
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    • Applica una ventosa nella metà inferiore del pannello frontale, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home per assicurare un adeguato sigillo tra la ventosa e il vetro frontale.

    Even with using high heat from a blow dryer, I had to put the suction cup over the home button or the bottom edge wouldn’t lift at all. That waterproof adhesive is incredibly strong.

    Aaron Soderholm -

    As others have said, this part really stinks, but it’ll work if you keep trying. Agree with multiple rounds of hair dryer on high (did about 60-90s each time), and with having to out the suction cup over the home button. You don’t need a big gap to pry it open - it’ll be slight …

    Johnny Emrica -

    Patience is the key here. Expletives and patience. Like previous comments say, putting the suction cup over the home button (I used packing tape to maintain the seal) will allow you to apply force to the proper location to separate the screen. Good luck!

    J Rawlinson -

    Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

    Bradley Steiner -

    iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

    Matti Haveri -

  8. PnYJMHrBqA2Jh22u
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    xYlJ5IgLFMxCDZ2B

    • Tira la ventosa applicando una tensione forte e costante fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il gruppo dello schermo e la scocca.

    • Inserisci nella fessura un plettro di apertura.

    • L'adesivo impermeabile che tiene in posizione lo schermo è molto tenace. La creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede l'applicazione di una forza piuttosto elevata. Se hai difficoltà nell'aprire una fessura, applica altro calore e muovi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare lo strumento di apertura.

    The screen on my phone was so broken, a suction cup did not work, so I softened the adhesive with a blow dryer and used a Jimmy to carefully pry open the phone from the bottom just enough to slip a pick in.

    charguy -

    Just completed a smashed screen replacement, this is probably the most time consuming part. Used packing tape to cover the screen to help create a suction surface (had to replace it a couple times because it pulls away after a purple good pulls ) Used consistent heat for about 5 minutes, then stuck a pick in the tiniest opening… and pry pry pry!

    Brian Gill -

    I failed at this step. No amount of heating, pulling, and rocking opened up enough of a gap to slip in even a knife let alone the blue plastic tool. That's with a phone that has an undamaged screen - just trying to replace the battery. Apple won this round :(

    Michael Sherman -

    Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

    Chris Wood -

    Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

    Johnny Emrica -

    Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

    Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

    - For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

    - Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

    In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

    Howard -

    4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

    Cat -

    Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

    I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

    Jim Meyers -

    After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

    - I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

    - the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

    - tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

    - leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

    Jared Wilk -

    Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

    hunter.geofizz -

    I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

    Alessio Toniolo -

    Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

    Bradley Steiner -

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

    dantegd -

    The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

    thewrytstf -

    sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

    Andi Tony -

    I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

    Sharaf Kazi -

  9. 2QPL6xQ1bKKTHEE2
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    • Fai scorrere il tuo attrezzo lungo il bordo sinistro del telefono, spostandoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e l'interruttore della modalità silenziosa, per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.

    • Fermati vicino all'angolo superiore sinistro del display.

    • Non cercare di forzare il distacco del display dal case posteriore, perché è tenuto in posizione da clip di plastica che potrebbero rompersi.

    My Plektrum worked ok, but the edges broke off a bit towards the end

    griffin.weber -

  10. g1bJoLynAKeivqUm

    • Ci sono dei cavi flessibili delicati lungo il bordo destro del tuo iPhone. Non inserire il tuo plettro lì, dato che potresti danneggiare i cavi flessibili.

    I was trying to replace my battery, and accidentally cut one of the cords on my screen. I marked my pick, so i don't know how it happened.

    Gib Jeffries -

  11. bYHHQWBLX2SbZ4ZM
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    • Inserisci nuovamente il tuo attrezzo nell'angolo inferiore destro dell'iPhone e fallo scorrere attorno all'angolo e lungo il lato destro del telefono per separare l'adesivo.

    • Non inserire il plettro per più di 3 mm: potresti danneggiare i cavi dello schermo.

    No pick in the kit you sent me.

    Ted Cooper -

  12. JsELGeLj2sULj4Rl
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    • Tira dolcemente la ventosa per sollevare il lato inferiore del display.

    • Non sollevare il display più di 15° per evitare il rischio di stirare o strappare i cavi piatti di connessione del display.

    • Tira la linguetta per staccare la ventosa dal pannello anteriore.

  13. 1wx6fuMwGlVmTVwg
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    • Fai scorrere uno strumento di apertura sotto il display attorno all'angolo superiore sinistro e lungo il bordo superiore del telefono per allentare l'adesivo rimasto.

    I did end up using just a smidge of IFIXIT adhesive remover along the edge before opening and that seemed to really help

    Karen Flowers -

    I have been using the pointed tweezers to pull the adhesive strands apart and out as the display comes off.

    Adam Yavner -

    This bit was awkward as to get a good grip I kept inadvertently switching the %#*@ phone on!

    wendyhoward -

  14. pmOBsioPu6PHdocL
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    • Fai scorrere lievemente il gruppo display verso il basso (allontanandolo dal bordo superiore del telefono) per liberarlo dalle clip che lo collegano al case posteriore.

  15. XaJPKiESSbHGIDqx
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    • Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato sinistro, come per sollevare la copertina posteriore di un libro.

    • Non cercare di staccare del tutto il display, perché questo è ancora connesso alla scheda logica dell'iPhone da diversi fragili cavi piatti.

    • Appoggia il display contro qualche tipo di supporto per mantenerlo aperto mentre lavori sul telefono.

    Nach RECHTS klappen - nicht nach links!

    Manfred Wachtel -

    Als ich das Flachbandkabel auf der rechten Seite sah, hab ich mich auch gefragt, ob die das mit nach Links klappen ernst meinen, und das „Buch“ lieber auf japanische Art nach rechts aufgeklappt. Das sollte dringend in der Anleitung korrigiert werden!

    Sebastian Plickert -

    “Up from the left” means lift up the left side.

    Which is the same as folding to the right.

    “Like the back cover of a book” explains it even more clearly.

    Maybe it gets lost in translation?

    Nick Shtangey -

    Fold to THE RIGHT - not to the left!

    Jim Glenys -

    When I saw the ribbon cable on the right side, I also wondered if they were serious about folding it to the left, and the "book" would rather be opened to the right in the Japanese way.This should be corrected urgently in the manual!

    Jim Glenys -

    Hi Jim, the display opens from the left side, toward the right side. It should look like the back cover of a book. Hope this helps. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

    Mangled Jargon -

  16. UHPAQ4xaQQRZEEc2

    • Rimuovi le seguenti quattro viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa inferiore del cavo del display alla scheda logica:

    • Tre viti da 1,2 mm

    • Una vite da 2,6 mm

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 -

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell -

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech -

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday -

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 -

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith -

    STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

    John Grant -

    i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

    Tina Matthews -

    there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?

    Lars Göbel -

    what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off

    Neylley Reynoso -

  17. k34xU4RKWbs1uk5K
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    • Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del cavo del display.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west -

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard -

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith -

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar -

  18. VS1FiZyZHebFIuQo
    VS1FiZyZHebFIuQo
    ZZUGd2VCcGplGEZm
    uSeYoeEvmaI6TPuB

    • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Piega lievemente verso l'alto il cavo del connettore per impedirgli di fare contatto con lo zoccolo e alimentare così il telefono.

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark -

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer -

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon -

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O -

  19. EjPXnLkfPYtKriYF
    EjPXnLkfPYtKriYF
    ohPCtWpSggN3HkmE
    Fpc2oOAExSPUJGn2

    • In questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata quando disconnetti o riconnetti i cavi.

    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per disconnettere i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica.

    • Per ricollegare il connettore a pressione, premi una delle estremità finché il clic conferma il corretto posizionamento, poi ripeti l'operazione dall'altra parte. Non premere in mezzo. Se il connettore è anche lievemente fuori allineamento, il connettore può piegarsi, causando un danno permanente.

    • Se dopo aver rimontato il telefono ti ritrovi con uno schermo bianco, linee bianche sul display oppure se manca, del tutto o in parte, la risposta touch, prova a staccare e riattaccare con cura entrambi questi cavi e assicurati che siano ben bloccati in posizione.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon -

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay -

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach -

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford -

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll -

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO -

  20. eOV4A2QhwOEwbiHK
    eOV4A2QhwOEwbiHK
    PHEMGNluvvEJ1qga
    AiXmxFQOUDwwQlS2

    • Rimuovi le tre viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello anteriore:

    • Una vite da 1,3 mm

    • Due viti da 1,0 mm

    • Rimuovi la staffa.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west -

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 -

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou -

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo -

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 -

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji -

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep -

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt -

  21. HP3GYMeDTQfroDSM
    HP3GYMeDTQfroDSM
    rYVXLQtY5ZhLE5pe

    • Disconnetti il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello anteriore dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Questo connettore a pressione deve essere ricollegato un estremo per volta per minimizzare il rischio di piegatura.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly -

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    That's save my life!thanks god!

    neg -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy -

  22. 6sXLpmxMPOVXtwBd

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji -

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien -

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra -

    Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

    Hannes -

    I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.

    Shawn Hime -

    I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.

    In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/

    If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.

    Rob Russell -

    This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.

    Jezagee -

  23. CLKps4OJMD3O1FQq

    • Svita le tre vite Phillips che fissano il gruppo antenna:

    • Due viti da 1,3 mm

    • Una vite da 1,2 mm

    It is not necessary to remove the logic board. remove the three standoff screws and the simcard holder and push back the sim ejector pin and you can lift the logic board up about 7mm. with isopropyl to loosen the adhesive, slide a spudger under the old charge port cable you can easily slide it out. Makes the job a lot easier and quicker.

    Jack -

    Yep it works, Jack. Thank you.

    Simon -

    Thanks Jack,

    Followed your advice and saves a fair bit of work.

    Drew McCluskey -

    To each it’s own, but it was much better for me once I went through the steps and took the logic board off. It’s not hard. Without taking the board off, I found that the logic board is just too rigid to easily lift it up by 7mm. Plus the old Lightning Port assembly is stuck on the case pretty strong and putting the new one in with the adhesive and lining it up correctly would be impossible for me without the logic board clear out of the way. My personal recommendation is to stick to the script on this iFixit process.

    S C -

  24. jMRUcdyeuCvVTTDY

    • Rimuovi la vite Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissa il gruppo antenna al bordo superiore del case posteriore.

    This screw is slightly larger than the other 1.3mm ones. Don't mix it up like me.

    vinicius.edson -

  25. RKaOW5wRhX4aZaa4
    RKaOW5wRhX4aZaa4
    OoCwhniSTauiIk2K
    Q3rQFRKhFTJeCVGl

    • La staffa del foro della vite sulla parte superiore del gruppo antenna è incastrata in un piccolo alloggiamento nel bordo superiore dell'iPhone.

    • Inclina il gruppo antenna verso la parte superiore del telefono.

    • Fai scorrere la staffa del foro della vite verso il basso e fuori dal suo alloggiamento.

  26. l3tqSvofYZNADHt5

    • Rimuovi il gruppo antenna superiore sinistra.

    How do I know if this part is the issue?

    MSD Secretary -

  27. Gt6pNIolL1o6hyS6
    Gt6pNIolL1o6hyS6
    3djB1v1raTKaOK3M

    • Inserisci uno strumento estrazione SIM o una graffetta nel piccolo foro nel vassoio della scheda SIM.

    • Premi con una certa forza per espellere il vassoio.

    no sim problem

    Makuri 369 -

  28. eM1XbNyDctKBBSuL
    eM1XbNyDctKBBSuL
    LKtdFJFLJjRYekKI
    aIboW4Z2xwd4LVWc

    • Rimuovi il vassoio della scheda SIM dall'iPhone.

    • È facile che la scheda SIM cada fuori dal vassoio.

    • Quando reinserisci la scheda SIM, assicurati che sia orientata correttamente rispetto al vassoio.

    • Una sottile guarnizione di gomma attorno al vassoio della scheda SIM protegge dall'intrusione di acqua e polvere. Se questa guarnizione è danneggiata o manca, sostituiscila per proteggere i componenti interni del tuo iPhone.

    كيف اخرج الشريحه اذا علقت في الجوال من دون مدخل الشريحه

    Salem -

    كيف اخرج الشريحه اذا علقت في الجواب من دون مدخل الشريحه نفسها

    Salem -

  29. Vm5dgKUl1PDrJPUq
    Vm5dgKUl1PDrJPUq
    fNbwSSxiqxDM4Mal
    XRGXc5bwFU14gnVl

    • Usa uno strumento di apertura iFixit o un'unghia per disconnettere i due connettori dei cavi della fotocamera sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccoli.

  30. fcW6IFCwCehjVycc

    • Svita le due viti che fissano la staffa della fotocamera posteriore:

    • Una vite Phillips da 1,6 mm

    • Un distanziale a vite da 2,2 mm

    • Per rimuovere distanziali a vite l'ideale è usare un cacciavite per distanziali o una punta per distanziali.

    • In caso di emergenza, può bastare un piccolo cacciavite a taglio, ma è necessaria un'estrema cautela per evitare che scivolando possa danneggiare i componenti circostanti.

    Why is there a standoff screw here? No other screw goes into it so why not have a Phillips?

    Trevor Smith -

    More to the point, why doesn’t the Ifixit tool kit for this job come with the bit required?

    John Tinsley -

    Second that, sitting here trying to figure out how to get it out.

    Jeffrey Wilhelm -

    iFixit kits do come with all the required bits, but sometimes specialty bits like this one are packed into a different part of the box. Unpack the entire kit and you should find it. In the unlikely event that it really is missing due to a packing error, contact customer support and they’ll send you the missing bit ASAP.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I strongly urge Ifixit to change this comment “In a pinch, a flathead screwdriver will do the job” - maybe ok for REMOVAL ONLY, but for REASSEMBLY - it is very dangerous - i used a flathead while fixing my daughters phone and they kept going crooked - easily causing me 1-2 hours of frustration and STRIPPING THE THREADS IN THE ALUMINUM BACK FRAME BODY !!!!

    I had to hot glue a couple spots and skip several screws on reassembly to do the jankiest, most embarrasing repair job - BUY THE RIGHT SPECIAL TOOL FOR THE STANDOFF SCREWS OR YOU’LL REGRET IT!!!

    treadmillfix -

    There is no tool for this special screw. What gives?

    Jacob DeShazo -

    My kit has the standoff bit, just wasn't in the tool tray, it was loose in the box with another bit.

    Neil Eriksen -

    I tried it with the flat blade instead of the standoff screwdriver and it worked, but I figure it added about 15 minutes of fumbling around and some risk of slipping and stripping. I have the iFixIt kit with like 80 bits so I just assumed it would be in there. Had I known before starting, I would have definitely gotten a standoff bit, just for the peace of mind.

    Arnie Schoenberg -

  31. oYK2Ue5bUFRZyuGi

    • Rimuovi la staffa che copre la fotocamera posteriore.

  32. eWDsc2xjS5nBqpLZ

    • Svita le due viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissano la staffa del cavo superiore.

  33. ZbFGL2B4WBxOCYqW

    • Togli la staffa del cavo superiore.

  34. lCXujcdc2AsnQib4

    • Svita le due viti Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissano la clip di messa a terra nell'angolo superiore sinistro della scheda logica.

  35. TYO4LDDSQWwkYMFF

    • Rimuovi la clip di messa a terra.

  36. yhuXcpvNbexdaaCV
    yhuXcpvNbexdaaCV
    yxTCNXWkL3YSpWTs

    • Svita la vite Phillips da 1,3 mm che fissa il cavo flessibile dell'antenna al bordo superiore del case posteriore dell'iPhone.

    • Rimuovi la vite a croce Phillips restante dal cavo a nastro dell'antenna.

    This step is when you will also need to remove a second screw on the antenna flex cable, below and left of the circled screw.

    Evan O -

    Evan O is right! There is a 2.0 mm Standoff screw right below; and possibly slightly left, of the top 1.3 mm Phillips screw. It should actually show up in Step 15 as soon as the bracket is removed. Rob

    Robert Schmidt -

    Also that "remaining" phillips screw is I think a 1.6mm phillips screw. It helps to identify them when reassembling.

    S C -

  37. xWBLBfYxglaN4kby
    xWBLBfYxglaN4kby
    a3J5vetYMSvmNLCg

    • Usa un'unghia o l'estremità a punta di uno strumento di apertura iFixit per sollevare e disconnettere il connettore del cavo flessibile dell'antenna dalla scheda logica.

  38. IXyrrTwGZQAJuCCX
    IXyrrTwGZQAJuCCX
    2YYoOZSinlHppvxQ

    • Fai scorrere l'estremità piatta di uno spudger sotto il cavo flessibile dell'antenna per staccare l'adesivo che lo tiene in posizione.

  39. EqfXhWo6XwBXQVEN
    EqfXhWo6XwBXQVEN
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    LYOfZZfaXKBBRUtP

    • La sede della vite sulla parte superiore del gruppo antenna è nascosta in una piccola cavità nel bordo superiore dell'iPhone.

    • Inclina il gruppo antenna verso la parte superiore del telefono.

    • Fai scorrere la sede della vite verso il basso e fuori dalla sua cavità.

    • Rimuovi il cavo flessibile dell'antenna.

    What is underneath the Antena flex Cable?

    Robert Schmidt -

    I’m still waiting for response. Someone had the nerve to ask me, ‘Which Antena flex Cable?’ with response.

    Robert Schmidt -

    IfixIt: I need You to clarify something I just descovered. I just received different iPhone 7 Plus and Antena flex cable came off and left Standoff screw still on logic board. Different iPhone 7 Plus actually has Standoff screw attached to cable in way it’s impossible to separate.

    Rob

    Robert Schmidt -

  40. 2duYoKfLqoDikKrW
    2duYoKfLqoDikKrW
    ZBrVZTX3riNVhVTE
    AogrCKsGaVDU2UKG

    • Usa uno strumento per far leva a punta fine o delle pinzette per sollevare e disconnettere con cautela i connettori dei due cavi coassiali dalla scheda logica.

    • In fase di rimontaggio, può essere complicato riconnetterli. Uno alla volta, metti un connettore in posizione sopra il suo zoccolo e premilo verso il basso con l'estremità piatta del tuo spudger. Il connettore dovrebbe scattare in posizione.

    What purpose do these coax cables have?

    Eddie Orantes -

    Note… the top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets!

    Ronald Stamper -

    Thanks so much for this helpful comment! I have just spent a few hours trying to find that information and here it is.

    thalley -

    Thank you so much, same as Thalley, more than 30 minutes that I’m searching for this info everywhere !!

    Olivier Tardy -

    Any tips on remembering which coax goes to which socket?

    Alan Chen -

    Thanks, I was almost certain but the OEM part came with longer coax, your post saved me time, and reasured me ;)

    Martin Lambev -

    Ronald Stamper, is this the same for the 7?

    Keah Smith -

    put a dab of tippex on the top connector so you remember which is which

    Richard -

    %#*@, the ifixit's coaxial connector's quality is such a rubbish. needed a lucky chance to actually insert it into the slot

    Taras Halaida -

  41. pRlPDRTS1O1Kbfwq
    pRlPDRTS1O1Kbfwq
    YCI1bHJBVkIdVqaA
    2SrGnHttEBdEqA4w

    • Disconnetti i due ultimi cavi piatti dalla scheda logica.

    • Disconnetti il connettore del cavo superiore sollevandolo dalla parte superiore.

    • Disconnetti il connettore della porta Lightning sollevandolo dal bordo esterno.

  42. IqpnlJHVtuiH4FUy

    • Svita le sette viti che fissano la scheda logica:

    • Una vite a croce Phillips da 1,3 mm

    • Due distanziali a vite lunghi 2,1 mm

    • Un distanziale a vite da 2,0 mm con testa larga

    • Un distanziale a vite da 2,0 mm con testa piccola

    • Due distanziali a vite da 2,2 mm

    • Per rimuovere distanziali a vite l'ideale è usare una punta per distanziale a vite e l'impugnatura.

    • In caso di emergenza, può bastare un piccolo cacciavite a taglio, ma è necessaria un'estrema cautela per evitare che scivolando possa danneggiare i componenti circostanti.

    I did not have the 2.0mm standoff screw (closest to the edge of the phone by the power button). The bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector (Step 15) was screwed in to this spot.

    Simon Ragona III -

    I experienced the same.

    Michael Moreno -

    Same for me.

    Zoli -

    BEWARE. THIS GUIDE IS WRONG. Whoever did this guide is obviously an amateur who doesn't know what they're doing. The standoffs are vastly different from each other in width and design. There is a SPECIFIC standoff for the top "yellow" circle which connects to the ground clip.

    DO NOT REMOVE THESE SCREWS / STANDOFFS WITHOUT CAREFULLY DOCUMENTING EACH INDIVIDUAL LOCATION AND SCREW

    FIX YOUR GUIDE!!!

    Pablo Edvardo -

    Pablo is right, there IS a visible difference between the two yellow 2.0 mm standoff screws - make a note of which is which (label, drawing, etc.) when you’re at this step.

    Christopher Villavicencio -

    1) The fact iFixit marks tho DIFFERENT SCREWS as IDENTICAL i s a big shame. Really guys, DO go an extra mile and account screws thoroughly. Luckily other screws seem to be marked correctly

    2) since iFixit was lazy to compose a build-up instruction:

    better take care of connecting the ports BEFORE you screw tightly the board to the rest of the phone! This gives you some degree of freedom to move the board a bit to be able to click the ports in without destroying them -- its especially the case for the connection with the lightning board, where the chip might be misaligned by a fraction of a millimetre in the direction along the chip even if you placed the lightning chip perfectly in terms of those two pins mentioned below -- you just won't have enough length of the flat cable to align the port (because the flatness and shortness of the cable blocks the movement in the direction you need to align) and risk pressing flat the tiny contacts.

    Taras Halaida -

    Hi all.

    Thank you for leaving your comments! We have changed the guide accordingly to show two separate screws with larger and smaller screw heads. Going forward, you can always directly edit the guides if you have any improvements—we are a wiki after all!

    Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

  43. d2QbMCuIxxhsemfE
    d2QbMCuIxxhsemfE
    udGxF21GDG21IWVL

    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per spingere il pistone del sistema di estrazione della scheda SIM fuori dalla scheda logica.

  44. xsWXveUkJTkrQNa1

    • Usa la punta di uno spudger per sfilare delicatamente i due cavi coassiali dalla piccola clip metallica che li fissa alla scheda logica.

    The cables need to be popped out of the clip by moving them up.

    Evan O -

    Remember to differentiate between the two coaxial cables, its hard to tell during reassembly which is which

    Alan Chen -

    so which is which ?

    CGG -

    The top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. ⏎
    The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets

    CGG -

  45. QaA534Yo3KIGYKMu
    QaA534Yo3KIGYKMu
    gAT21meCopYRqGBG
    YYLwtTGUKLotgwOx

    • Solleva la scheda logica dai lati inferiori e falla scivolare verso la parte inferiore dell'iPhone per rimuoverla.

    • Stai attento a non impigliare la scheda logica nei cavi.

    • In fase di rimontaggio nota la posizione della clip nera di messa a terra nell'angolo superiore destro della scheda logica, vicino alle fotocamere posteriori. La scheda dovrebbe scivolare sotto la clip.

    is very nice, I follow them and I really like them

    Juan Jose -

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Jeff Suovanen

Membro da: 06/08/13

426762 Reputazione

20 commenti

Helo! Where can I buy motherboard for iPhone 7+ that can be activated? Price?

Dario -

Can we use iphone 7+ 32gb board to a iphone 7+ 128 GB

Ali Mirsa -

You can purchase motherboard from this website.

https://www.aliexpress.com/w/wholesale-i...

Jose Palma -

It's really tough to install Board component but this guideline really helpful..

Flica Hussey -

how can you determine the different stand of screws

joe kelly -

organize your screws and look at the %#*@ guide

Crystal Haugh -

Is there a reason why I swapped the motherboard of a Verizon iPhone 7 plus onto a Sprint iPhone 7 plus but now boot ups take 5+ minutes and the phone displays “accessory may not be supported” when connected to a charger?

Pablo villacis -

The reason might be because you haven’t connect finger print (home button) into the motherboard.

kabore -

did you ever find a fix to your problem?

Francesco Digiorgio -

I am trying to find the correct motherboard for my iPhone 7 Plus (256GB) with finger print ID.  Does anyone know where to find the proper/correct motherboard?  Thank you!

Antoine -

I am trying to find the correct motherboard to purchase for my 256GB iPhone 7 Plus  (with finger print ID).  does anyone know where to get the correct one?  Thanks!

Antoine -

Hi, I need the board for the iPhone 7+ 256GB with the fingertouch (which are paired).

Where did you get yours? can you help me? Did you buy yours?

Can you write directly to raul@miodo.com.ar

Thanks,

R

Raul Miodownik -

and the touch id its work or not ?

D E V -

If the flash is not working on the iPhone 7 plus, from which I want to get the logic board out, will it work on the “new” iPhone where I want to put it in, or are these errors connected to the motherboard?

christophw88 -

I have the board, showing red (water damage); however, the battery warms up. If charge, noting else. If need to replace the motherboard, will i lose all the data inside? I’ve also order battery and digitizer, hoping that will do. The top part just above the white dot which turns red (motherboard) near antenna, looks burnt. Help

Levianathis -

Hi, I need the board for the iPhone 7+ 256GB with the fingertouch (which are paired).

Where did you get yours? can you help me?

Can you write directly to raul@miodo.com.ar

Thanks,

R

Raul Miodownik -

peut on mettre la carte mère d’un iphone 7 sur un 7 plus?

Fanny Caillaud -

Very Helpful, thanks!

Antonio Morataya -

My phone was completely black but home button vibrates when pressing on it and itunes could not recognise the device when plugged into it. Now i replaced the front screen and after charging 12hours the phone does not turn on. In this case, does anyone know what is causing the issue?

hin -

I found it is essential to have a magnetic board like the one iFixit sells in order to keep the screws all in order. If you mix them up, you’ll need an accurate digital caliper or a precise analog micrometer to measure the screws for length.

I found the instructions super helpful in completely drying out my iPhone 7Plus after it suffered from a dunking well along in its life. I had replaced the battery myself a year ago, and although I thought I had properly sealed it, it still leaked. I was able to get it dried out and back in order by following these instructions to remove the logic board and then do a heated dry with a blow dryer for five or so minutes on low while monitoring it carefully with my hand and an IR thermometer.

Paul -