Sostituzione schermo LCD superiore Nintendo 3DS XL

Scritto Da: Charlene Donlon

Commenti: 172

Sostituzione schermo LCD superiore Nintendo 3DS XL

Difficoltà

Molto difficile

Passi

Tempo Necessario

45 minuti - 2 ore

Introduzione

Peer prima cosa dovrai smontare la scocca inferiore del Nintendo 3DS XL, quindi dovrai passare a quella superiore per accedere ai cavi a nastro che collegano lo schermo LCD superiore al resto del dispositivo.

Strumenti

Ricambi

Passo 1

Svita le due viti Phillips #0 da 4.2 mm di lunghezza posizionate sulla parte in alto del retro.
Le viti hanno delle rondelle che ne evitano la rimozione in modo tale che non possano staccarsi. Lascia queste rondelle sulle viti: non è necessario rimuoverle per questa guida.

Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again!

justjustintuber - 09/03/15

what type screwdriver do i use?!? its so small!!!!

Matthew - 18/03/18

I had success using a #00 Phillips head

Jake S - 30/04/21

Can't clip the front of the back cover back in

Macro Man -

I had trouble too, but got past it by slipping the bottom edge into the three indents first then easing the rest of the cover on!

Issu -

I found these were actually #00

Demosthien -

The screws in the 1st picture are stripped. What screwdriver head do I use?

Adric101 - 27/12/23

Passo 2

Tieni il dispositivo in modo tale che la cover sia rivolta verso l'alto.
Usando uno strumento di plastica, rimuovi la cover cominciando dall'angolo superiore destro.
Tieni l'angolo sollevato così da evitare che si riattacchi.
Fai attenzione alla parte sotto il compartimento del pennino. Fai leva sulla cover per rimuoverla se è ancora attaccata.
Rimuovi la cover dal tuo dispositivo e mettila da parte.

Note that on the lower side (opposite to the hinges), there are small hooking tabs. These require you to lift the top (screw side) off towards you, then the lower area.

Jordan Kelly - 14/04/17

Passo 3

Inserisci lo strumento di plastica nell'apertura situata sul lato destro della batteria.
Solleva la batteria dal case inferiore.
Rimuovi la batteria e mettila da parte.

My 👴 grandpa was helping me 🔧 repair my 3ds xl and ⚡️electrocuted himself with the 🔋battery while we was taking it out with a 🔪 knife. 💀 Rip grandpa 😔

Corban Bennett - 01/07/22

Passo 4

Usando delle pinze estrai i piedini di gomma che sono situati sopra entrambi i lati del compartimento per la cartuccia del gioco.

I found that the rubber bumps don't move easily, you'll likely have to use a lot of upward force to move them.

jconnell85 - 21/07/15

I torn one of the bumpers because I used a needle instead.

luxusmirajane - 31/07/15

You do have a pry a bit. I tore one a little but not that big of a deal.

Christopher - 07/11/15

I think the ease of this step would be subject to the age and condition of the 3DS. Mine came out with minimal leverage using my nails.

infmz - 04/04/16

try twisting upward

Kmi Nguyen - 26/01/17

I used a super tiny metal screwdriver to push the bumper against one side and then used the screwdriver to push it up and out

S Maduras - 28/05/17

I tried tweezers but they were scraping against the plastic and I didn't want to leave any marks. Ended up using a tiny flat screwdriver to get them out like S Maduras said. Once I got them out I noticed there was a tiny bit of glue on the bottom holding them in place.

Anth Rodi - 07/06/17

My 3DS XL is so old that the rubber bumpers were very hard to remove.

So I tried to heat the rubber bumpers a little bit with a hair dryer for 15-20 seconds, with some pauses every 5 seconds in order to avoid overheating or damaging something as a precaution.

It worked well to remove them but the only drawback is that as my rubber bumpers already got damaged and scratched because of my previous attempts without heating first, heating it up after aggravated the scratch damages when I used tweezers.

So I would recommend heating the rubber bumpers moderately first and be gentle when using something that could scratch or damage them.

(Do not take my words for it, it may not work for you)

S. Tony Ly -

Passo 5

Rimuovi le sei viti da 6.2 mm usando un cacciavite Phillips #00

#000 ifixit philips screwdriver does not fit the 6.2mm screws. Whats the deal?

sevenethshinobi - 01/02/15

I have a 000 Phillips from tekton and it worked just fine.

Megan - 18/12/15

I stripped a good #000 screwdriver, and found that EVERY screw actually fit perfect and snug with a #00 screwdriver. Zero damage to the screws or the screwdriver with the #00.

Vannicke Trabeitt - 03/02/15

Don't buy the #000 screwdriver from this site! It's poorly made and strips the screws. I had to drill the screws out and replace them, it was very tricky and nearly broke my DS. Get a screwdriver from an electronics store.

sharga - 17/02/15

I bought and used the #00 screwdriver, and it worked perfectly for this.

I had also bought the #000, but I never needed it during the entire operation.

jconnell85 - 09/08/15

All 6 screws are exactly the same so you don't have to worry about mixing them up.

Christopher - 07/11/15

One of the screws in my 3ds XL seems to have its '+' engraving worn off, i can't seem to unscrew it, though the other 5 unscrewed properly. What should I do?

Potato Man - 26/07/16

J000 works better here.

Dom - 18/03/17

I stripped a screw in my 3ds xl and don’t know how to get it out. Do I have to use a drill or is there another way?

Troy Czaban - 20/07/20

Passo 6

Rimuovi le viti da 2.3 mm situate sopra lo slot per cartuccia da gioco con un cacciavite Phillips #00.

between these two steps, the bottom two screws are not mentioned. make sure to take those out too ;)

anthony pullano -

Passo 7

Assicurati di aver rimosso la scheda SD. Con uno strumento in plastica adatto fai leva sulla scocca inferiore iniziando dalla parte in basso e continuando sul perimetro.
Ci sono due cavi a nastro che connettono la scocca alla scheda elettronica. Stai attento a non tirare troppo la scocca, potresti romperli.

Make sure that you have removed your SD card, otherwise that'll keep you from completing this step.

jconnell85 - 21/07/15

Passo 8

Rimuovi i cavi a nastro situati sotto i piedini di destra e di sinistra facendo leva alla base dei cavi con uno strumento di plastica adatto.
Rimuovi del tutto la scocca inferiore dal resto del dispositivo e mettila da parte.

The IR board is facing the wrong way.

Jordan - 03/08/14

Thank you so much for pointing that out, it was keeping my system from starting up and I thought I blew it!

Ryan Hescock - 24/12/14

Yup, that is definitely an upside-down IR board, and will result in a silent post error. It was driving me crazy trying to figure out why the system wouldn't start up.

alexmouravskiy - 08/04/15

That's it!! Thanks so much!! I've tinkered around about one month and couldn't get this thing to work...all because I've followed the guide here and looked the picture up twice so I don't put the IR-Board in the wrong way...

chfreydank - 18/08/16

Hehe. That would explain why it was not working ;-)

boma40 - 20/09/14

Thank you guys so much! I followed everything faithfully and it was DOA on startup. (Black screens, blue light). The IR board was backwards. These pictures need to be fixed. As-is, it shows a broken 3DS.

jtmuehlbauer - 08/06/16

You should always work on the device in a 3/4 open position- this allows the ribbon cables to have slack and will less likely tear, and is the only position the hinge pin can be removed or installed as it is keyed

Gabriel Wilkins -

Passo 9

Posiziona il dispositivo in modo che lo slot per la cartuccia da gioco sia posta in alto.
Individua il pad circolare sul lato destro del dispositivo.
Rimuovi le due viti da 7.5 mm negli angoli in alto a sinistra e in basso a destra.

This IR is bad side, diode IR must be UP

patholog - 22/06/17

Careful you don’t lose the little washer on the circle pad stem. It’s not held down by anything.

edwardsgreg - 04/10/20

Passo 10

Usando uno strumento in plastica adatto rimuovi il joystick del pad circolare.
Non usare troppa forza con lo strumento in plastica. C'è una striscia che collega il joystick circolare alla scheda madre che deve rimanere attaccata.
Tra il pad circolare e il relativo joystick c'è una guarnizione non fissata. Fai attenzione e non perdere questo pezzo.

I found it easy to put my finger ontop of the board and apply a little pressure. When i popped off the board, my finger stopped it flying off.

Chris Ramsay - 05/01/16

I made a small mistake by popping the circle pad joystick and it went flying off and now im stuck trying to put it back in

magnus munoz - 26/02/19

Passo 11

Usando la parte con l'estremità piatta di uno spudger alza con attezione la linguetta che tiene collegata la striscia del pad circolare alla scheda madre.
Rimuovi la striscia e il joystick del pad circolare.

The 'flat head' holds it in place when down, and you can reattach your ribbon cable when it's up, it only needs to be partway in so when you close the flat head, if your joystick board can't move easily in place then you've done it right, it it's too loose, try again to work the ribbon cable under.

jconnell85 - 21/07/15

The ribbon goes into the left side of the "flat head" right? Not the end that clamps down on the right? I'm having a !&&* of a time sliding the end of the ribbon into the little space between the flat head when it's up and the side of the terminal.

Sedroc Djeddi - 23/06/17

For those of you like me, who got stuck after the last step.

To understand how to actually remove the circle pad, continue with these steps at 21.

Sostituzione copertura levetta analogica Nintendo 3DS

Hope it helps those after me. I almost ripped some cabling inside thinking I had to take out the motherboard.. luckily I didn't.

monk333y - 26/07/15

Just as what monk333y said, follow the Original 3DS steps. They are identical and you don't have to remove anymore big parts. The only annoying part is taking out the circle pad.

luxusmirajane - 31/07/15

I broke the retaining clip. It is not very strong and I used a bit too much force i think in opening the clip or pushing it back down. Thinking of using hot glue or something else to keep the circle pad ribbon in place.

Lawrence - 11/10/15

Did the hot glue work? I did the exact same thing now im not sure what to do…

Matthew Johnson - 09/08/18

How do you re attach the ribbons? do the just snap right into the motherboard?

petraogan - 02/02/16

thank you monk333y, the author of this guide needs to correct a couple of things and how hard would it be for her to add steps 21 onward from the other guide?

S Maduras - 28/05/17

step 11, if you're just replacing the button, you don't need to disconnect the circle pad ribbon from the motherboard.

S Maduras - 28/05/17

During re-assemblhy, note that the peg between the joystick mechanism and the circle pad is rectangular, and must fit into the matching rectangular socket on the circle pad.

Dan - 23/07/17

When testing the touchscreen, make sure you install the analog. Otherwise, the screen will act erratic. Thought I broke a brand new part. Just a heads up!

Hassan Sinanan - 03/01/18

The entire top part of my circle pad had broken off, so I had no problem getting the old one out. I actually had more trouble getting the ribbon cable back into the clip, and the new circle pad attached to the stick, than any other part.

That said, this was way, way easier than I expected it to be.

Emtu - 17/01/18

Passo 12

Posiziona la console in modo tale che sia rivolta con lo slot per le cartucce verso l'alto.
Identifica la scheda IR posizionata sull'angolo destro superiore della scheda madre.
La scheda IR è installata per sbaglio sotto sopra in queste foto. Se viene installata in questo modo il tuo DS non si avvierà. Prendi nota dell'orientamento della tua scheda IR prima di rimuoverla, e reinstallala nello stesso verso.
Rimuovi la scheda IR con uno strumento di apertura in plastica, inserendolo sotto la scheda e rimuovendola con una delicata pressione.

The IR board appears to be upside down in this photo.

Eric - 05/12/15

One assumes they forgot to take the photo before removal and quickly put it back on upside down (accidentally) for the purposes of taking the photo.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Removing the IR board is actually a completely unnecessary step. It's absolutely fine to leave the IR board attached to the motherboard, it's then one less loose piece to go missing ;)

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

The reason they remove these "easily loosable" pieces is because there's an order to put the board back together or the 3DS won't turn on. This is for replacing the motherboard, which most of the time you will buy and it won't come with the microphone, volume or IR board. Use your head kiddo. If it's so easy to loose these pieces, you should keep better track of them. We might as well just not take out any screws as well because those are very easy to loose

Miles Holiman - 28/05/17

You should add this note to the other uses of this picture; I accidentally knocked that chip off and reinstalled it upside down. I was referencing the photos for replacing the joystick.

Infernal Dalek - 17/11/16

You skipped removing the microphopne.

Mykaila Brown - 28/01/17

In my 3DXL, there was no IR board: the parts were installed directly on the motherboard.

Dan - 23/07/17

I agree my 3dxl the IR board is also part of the motherboard and doesnt come off.

Anthony siracuse - 06/01/18

Passo 13

Usando uno strumento in plastica fai leva e rimuovi la scheda Wi-Fi.
La scheda Wi-Fi sarà sempre connessa con un cavo e non è necessatio rimuoverla completamente in questo momento. Per ora basta metterla da una parte.

Component on bottom left was taken off, but not mentioned. Not sure what it does it does, and I'm assuming it's unimportant, but I just wanted to note.

Jordan - 03/08/14

The thing on the bottom left in the little black rubber cover is the mic!

Maxwell Alexander - 30/09/14

Why not just seperate the wifi board from the antenna now while in your hands? You're going to do it later anyway...

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Passo 14

Individua l'interruttore del volume sul lato destro della scheda madre vicino al controller analogico circolare.
Usando delle pinzette, rimuovi con attenzione la scheda del volume dal suo alloggio. Rimarrà attaccata alla scheda madre tramite un cavo a nastro.

As previously commented, in this step the microphone (lower left corner) was removed.

This is done by opening the grey flap, removing the ribbon from the motherboard and then either remove it or just let it sit in it’s place.

In my experience the motherboard will go around it easily.

Stefan Nicodem - 03/11/18

Passo 15

Usando l'estremità piatta di uno spudger alza con attezione la linguetta che attacca la striscia della scheda del volume alla scheda madre.
Rimuovi la scheda del volume e mettila da parte.

This step proved to be unnecessary. It's perfectly fine to leave it attached, and again it's one less small fiddly piece to go missing.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

What if I pushed flap too hard and detached and cant find. Now I unable to secure in. Is there a part for this?

Crystal Ramirez - 05/04/18

Its is the small grey flap that holds in the ribbon.

Crystal Ramirez - 05/04/18

Passo 16

Rimuovi i pezzi di plastica nera dagli angoli in basso a destra e sinistra usando le dita o un paio di pinzette.
Puoi anche rimuovere questi pezzi facilmente sollevando e girando il 3DS. Solitamente cadono da soli, ma non perderli!

Does anything happen if you lose them or not, that last part made me a little worried?

Ptheassassina - -

Passo 17

Usando la parte piatta di uno spudger gira verso l'alto le alette di bloccaggio che tengono fermi i due cavi a nastro più piccoli sulla scheda madre.
Queste due alette sono posizionate nei bordi in alto a destra e in basso a destra della scheda madre.
Sfila i cavi a nastro dalle loro prese.

For the first picture on step 17, (the one at the top of the board) what does that cable connect to? My clip broke.

Bradly - 07/01/15

MMM as far as I can tell it looks like it's for the touch screen as it plugs into p13 and is the same plug type as p10, p12 and p17 and a couple others. Could be wrong though :)

Connor - 18/01/15

Passo 18

Usando la parte piatta di uno spudger gira verso l'alto le alette di bloccaggio che tengono fermi i due cavi a nastro più larghi sulla scheda madre.
Per queste alette fai leva dal lato bianco.
Sfila i cavi a nastro dalle loro prese.

Note: the top right wider ribbon is for the camera, the thinner ribbon in the top right is for the speakers and the bottom ribbon is to the upper lcd. You will want to ensure you stack the ribbons appropriately when putting the system back together.

Elaine - 04/11/14

Had some trouble with this: Not exactly sure why, but when after successfully replacing the screen and beginning to resemble, while reinserting the wide ribbon for the lower LCD (p8) it seems that the white locking clip unhinged itself from the connector, and bent some of the pins. The ribbon now won't fully insert.. Can't figure out if I've somehow completely ruined my 3ds. Mostly concerned about my save data that's not on my sdcard.

kbbauer - 25/07/15

Passo 19

Usando la parte piatta di uno spudger gira verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio che tiene fermo l'ultimo cavo a nastro sulla scheda madre.
Per questa aletta fai leva dal lato nero.
Sfila il cavo a nastro dalla sua presa.
Riassemblaggio: Questo cavo a nastro è quello con le STRISCE NERE e va sul lato superiore (visibile) della scheda madre durante il riassemblaggio.

Passo 20

Svita le dieci viti da 3.0 mm che sono posizionate attorno sulla scheda madre.

It’s not a *!&*^#% 5.5mm, it’s 0.05mm probably. I ended up using wrong screws and punctured the housing. So wrong!

장한솔 - 07/09/18

I think those 5,5 mm mean the length (!) of the screws. The heads are normal little Philipps, perhaps #00 or #000.

VauWeh - 07/09/18

I took a micrometer to these screws, they are not 5.5 mm long.

Evan J Garner - 22/10/20

These screws are 3.0mm long.

Marques Jones -

Passo 21

La scheda madre è ancora collegata nell'angolo in alto a destra, quindi non rimuoverla ancora del tutto.
Solleva la scheda il necessario per liberarla dai due supporti in plastica vicini agli angoli in alto del lettore delle schede.
Gira delicatamente la scheda facendo perno sul bordo superiore.

Laying it down like this puts too much stress on the ribbon cable. I find it better to release the connector while the board is tilted at a 90 degree angle to the body of the 3DS. Less chance of damage to the top screen cable that way.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Add to this step, during reassembly: make sure the volume slider and wi-fi sliders are lined up correctly with their outer switches.

Scott Barrow -

Passo 22

Usando la parte piatta di uno spudger gira verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio che tiene fermo il cavo a nastro sulla scheda madre nell'angolo in alto a destra.
Assicurati di far leva dal lato bianco.
Sfila il cavo a nastro dalla sua presa.
Metti da parte la scheda madre.

So I tore this wire is this the visual or something?? Please help

linkon king - 17/10/16

I tore this wire too. Am I able to buy it individually?

dobe mon - 25/10/16

How do you get this cable back in? It is way too short...

Luke Miller - 30/03/17

Tweezers, steady hand, and a little luck.

Marcus DeCamp - 27/07/17

So, before step 23 do you put the bottom half of the 3ds xl back together?

Poké Pi. - 17/12/17

When fixing, I can't put the 2 wires in the connector. HELP!

Owen Burch - 23/03/18

are there issues with compatibility between motherboards? one works perfectly and the other powers on then off

xdboost -

Don't unplug this cable. Just leave the motherboard flat and don't move it while replacing the face button(s). This thing is way too hard to get back in.

Engiturtle -

It's hard to put it back but it's doable if you spend a lot of time, it took me around an hour and a half, also make sure you put it well because the first time, it was not fully inserted and the screen was flickering with gray lines so after I reinserted it worked fine.

Levan Kakashvili -

Passo 23

Apri il dispositivo in modo che lo schermo LCD superiore sia sopra.
Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere i quettro pezzi di gomme in tutti i quattro angoli.

I find tweezers can cause damage to the rubber screw covers too frequently. Using a fine sewing needle and prying them up from the corner helps to avoid damage to them seeing as you have to replace them later. You can see the one in the bottom right corner here is damaged. Using an exacto knife or razor blade is also too risky.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

I removed the rubber covers and the screws aren't there.

Noah Wilkerson - 01/12/16

pry them up from corner at an angle to get underneath them. you will have a harder time trying to pull them up from the sides.

Kmi Nguyen - 26/01/17

Noah It's possible you saw the shiny part underneath the rubber. They're supposed to come off with the rubber but I screwed up on the last one and didn't get that part out with the rubber. You might be seeing that. It's actually more difficult to get those out :/

Cary Hapeman - 29/01/17

Passo 24

Svita le quattro viti da 4,3 mm posizionate sotto i quattro pezzi in gomma con un cacciavite Philips #00.

Passo 25

Richiudi il dispositivo.
Metti le dita sopra la cerniera e spingi verso il basso per allontanare la scocca dalla cerniera. Si muoverà di soli 2 mm.

Mine was pretty tight so I had to force my plastic spudger into the opening to get anywhere

Tim T - 29/12/16

I had the same problem as Tim T, but I think mine was because I took my 3DS into a shop for repairs years ago and they probably used adhesive when putting the top cover back on.

I had to get a pointed metal spudger-thing and slowly wiggle it into the black hinge area. Just sorta went back and forth to break up the adhesive but it worked

Ok quick edit: if you have to do what I did be careful of the area right by the top corners- I’m pretty sure there are hinges right under the cover at those spots so don’t use too much force there or you might break the plastic

Issu - 28/11/23

Passo 26

Una volta che la scocca è libera e sganciata, rimuovila dal Nintendo DS.

Passo 27

Svita la vite che tiene fermo la scheda dell'interruttore per il 3D.
Solleva delicatamente i cavi a nastro che collegano la camera e gli speaker allo schermo LCD superiore.
I cavi sono incollati con dell'adesivo, quinsi stai attento mentre li sollevi.

Passo 28

Rimuovi i due piccoli cavi a nastro posizionati nell'angolo in alto a sinistra.
Usa uno spudger per girare verso l'alto le deu alette di bloccaggio dei connettori di questi cavi.
Sfila questi due cavi dalle loro prese.

The problem with reassembly is getting the LCD Flex cable back and through the hinge. It is very very likely to rip the cable due to the angle of the cable and the wind up "tube" you create to push the cable through the hinge.

Remember if you rip the LCD cable you'll need to get a completely new LCD.

Kneil Kameron - 11/04/15

Passo 29

Apri la cerniera e spingi delicatamente lo schermo LCD superiore con le dita per liberarlo dalla scocca.
Sfila delicatamente i cavi a nastro dalla cerniera.
Anche se non è necessario, rimuovere il perno destro della cerniera semplifica la rimozione dei cavi dalla stessa.
Non perdere i rettangoli in tessuto e gomma resistente all'acqua che coprano i due speaker: spesso cadono una volta rimossi gli speaker.
La copertura in vetro dello schermo può essere sostituita o trasferita al nuovo schermo. La copertura si graffia facilmente se usi strumenti in metallo: usane in plastica, o usa le unghie, per separarla.
Incolla la copertura al nuovo schermo usando un sottile adesivo lungo i bordi, o riusando il vecchio adesivo.
Per reinserire il perno della cerniera apri la console fino al penultimo scatto prima che sia completamente piatta.

I would recommend removing the left side hinge, hard to get to it but it does slide out just like the smaller 3ds. Otherwise you will tear the ribbon cables putting them back thru.

jehusk - 03/06/15

I was very precise in my reassembly which overall did take much longer than 30mins. After recharging, I can power up no problem and both screens come on with backlight! But no operating system starts up. I have lights, power, charging, wifi... But no system startup!! My IR board is correct (upside down from the above pic, I used another video guide) but I do not know what else could cause this?? Any ideas of what could be loose/missed connection causing this??

Laurajane - 26/08/15

Don't know if you fixed this but it could be caused by a bad wifi board. Have you tried replacing that?

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Sweet buttery babies, removing the ribbon cables through the hinge is the most stressful thing I've done all week. You need to add more detailed pictures of this, the hardest step.

Tom Burke - 01/02/16

Please see my reply, hope it helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

I found it easier to remove the hinge on the other side (see https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWmoXDuU... for how) and then do the cables that way, wrapping them (and a touch of tape) around a small screwdriver to help feed through... But holy crap was that the hardest part of this.

Had it not been for that, this would have been a 20 minute repair, instead, first time, 3 hours.... wtf

rdewalt - 18/10/16

Why has nobody posted explaining how to seperate the middle sections? It's actually pretty simple to do. Open the remaining parts of the 3DS XL to the 2nd widest setting (not 180 degrees, just before that). Once done, in the right hinge there is a shiny black piece with a gap in it. Through this gap you can see the white of the hinge. Use a small flathead screwdriver to nudge the hinge towards the center of the 3DS XL. Be gentle, it will slide far enough so you can almost seperate the top half. If you do it right it will be just shy of clearing, so gently bend the right hinge just a millimetre or two and you will be able to pull the barrel hinge side clear. Don't go nuts, as you still have to carefully thread the ribbon cables out through the slit of doom, making sure not to get them caught on the wifi cable. Continued in reply...

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Once free, gently pry the top screen out (it's stuck with an adhesive strip round the front of the screen) and flip it downwards. Pull the wifi cable through the ring and away from the ribbons, then roll your 3 ribbon cables up tight and gently pull those too though the ring. Don't forget to remove the black adhesive strip and plastic screen lens to put onto your new screen. Follow the directions in reverse to put your 2 halves together and follow the rest of this guide in reverse to get your 3DS XL working as good as new again. I hope this helps someone, if I get time one day I will take some photos to show how to do this. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

I was wondering why I can't seem to get upper lcd cable to go in properly it's always setup upside down when I roll the three ribbon cables together? You have any input on that? Thanks

Tony Azarian - 01/09/16

Thank u, very good to explain how to extract these ribbons. Need some photos to update this tutorial...

Frederic Morelli - 02/05/17

Your comment saved this project for me. This guide, as written, woefully underportrays the difficulty of not damaging any of the ribbon connectors for this step. You are MUCH better off separating the hinges (The Retro Gaming Repair, paired with YouTube videos, are a great resource) and working the ribbons through the metal hinge liner and the wide slot than trying to worm the new screen ribbon through the hinge liner and much smaller hole while still connected.

Jesse Espe - 11/07/17

This is ridiculous. Tore the ribbon trying to get it through the hinge. New screen is toast.

ben_chronister - 23/02/17

What the crap. I can’t understand what you are saying how to put ribbon through hinges, and I am so confused!!!!!!!!!

Owen Burch - 10/11/17

what you should do is remove the hinge piece on the right side of the console. there are some comments talking about it.

Ethan Pimm - 24/10/19

It was easier for me to rethread the display ribbon cable when the hinge was closed completely.

edwardsgreg - 04/10/20

"Don't forget to remove the black adhesive strip and plastic screen lens to put onto your new screen." - That was not easy...

Justin Smith -

Conclusione

Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Charlene Donlon

Membro da: 08/04/14

10215 Reputazione

63 commenti

Any good ways to get the ribbon cable back through the hole?

Timothy Levonius - 31/10/14

did u find a solution?? i need help.

David Mancini - 20/11/14

Carefully just have a pre-twist to it....good luck

Stephen Hernandez - 10/02/15

justjustintuber - 09/03/15

Try a Bobby hair pin.

Jesse James Cantu - 10/07/17

The Replacement is not that Easy, but this Video helped me how to remove the Hinge and feed through the Ribbons again: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qWmoXDuU...

Calvin C. - 12/06/18

As with the original 3ds you need to roll it up together with the other 2 cables and feed it through, I use a pair of rubber tipped tweezers, it can be a pain and will take time to get it right, go slow so you don't rip the cables.

john husk - 04/11/14

How do you put the ribbons back properly?? i cant get them to go in!!

David Mancini - 20/11/14

You should edit the images that show the IR board to at least identify that that piece is backwards in your photos and also to highlight the mic in the bottom left.

Ryan Hescock - 24/12/14

I struggled with getting the ribbon back through the hinge. I even ripped it on my first try and had to order another screen.

In the end, I used a straw, like the kind you'd drink a coke with, and cut a 1/4 inch section from it and wound the ribbon in that straw piece and pushed it through the hinge with no problem.

You will need something like a soldering holder or clamps to hold the 3DS XL itself while you do this, no way you can hold the screen, the ribbon/straw and the 3DS XL at the same time.

jason s - 24/12/14

Says 30 minutes on time to complete. I'd say you're looking at more like 2-3 hours with a success rate of 50% due to the difficulty of threading the display ribbon back through the hinge. That part alone took me 2-3 hrs.

jason s - 24/12/14

Just a note, I FINALLY managed to unhinge the 3DS found a youtube video with a comment that helped lead me in the right direction. It's a huge pain to get off but makes threading the ribbons easier and lowers chance of dmg.

To remove the hinge go to t he hinge that does NOT have the ribbons. Beside there is a piece of plastic that sits on top of the LED power light, look for a small opening, if you look carefully you should see white plastic. Make sure to close the 3ds carefully and push the piece of plastic towards towards the middle of the case (this can require a lot of force). The hinge should now detach be careful. Once the white plastic is far enough in, the plastic piece surrounding the LED plastic should come up quite easily.

Now you can thread the ribbon cables on the other hinge through quite easily.

Connor - 17/01/15

Just a note, it does take a LOT of force to remove it, AND to replace it, and the piece that slides out easily that holds the hinge in place as well as the clear Streetpass LED piece. I had mine half together when I realized a little clear piece was sitting on my table, and had to take it apart to find where it came from, and found it after taking the hinge apart again ... the last thing to do.

Vannicke Trabeitt - 03/02/15

Thanks for your comment! I think the hinge part is the most difficult part for tackling top screen replacement/ replacing speaker cable (in my case).

timyip3 - 24/12/15

For the record the barrel hinge (white part) slides out of the way much easier if you open the 3DS XL halves to the second 'click' before trying to nudge it. Not quite 180 degrees. Once done it slides out much more easily, just remember to put it back in the same way. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

I did it! I did it!

- But a few notes: The ribbon cable is 1000x easier to put through the slot in the plastic on the case if you remove the hinge piece, as noted by Connor (Thank you!)

- I had ripped the ribbon on the cracked screen I had been trying to pull it out, and UNHINGING THE TWO HALVES of the 3ds makes the ribbon part MUCH EASIER.

- Also, I destroyed a #000 philips head on the fourth screw. A #00 fit perfectly, and there was no more damage to screws.

Result: My Zelda Edition 3DS XL is now repaired, but it took 3 hours, not 30 minutes, and destroyed a #000 screwdriver in the process. I recommend using a #00.

Vannicke Trabeitt - 03/02/15

it does say use a 00

Ethan Pimm - 24/10/19

Just have patience and be careful as with any repair....sorry yall had so much trouble....

Stephen Hernandez - 10/02/15

********Note: If your top or bottom screen was working before disassembly and doesn't work after reassembly, then it's likely that the connector is loose or dirty or damaged or not clipped or PLACED UPSIDE-DOWN. I had this issue with my Super3DS XL(2015 New3DS XL) and it turns out that the reason why my top screen wasn't working after put together, was because I had the top LCD connector upside-down. After I correctly put the connector in, It worked again! :) ********

justjustintuber - 10/03/15

I am a attempting a hinge repair by replacing the full shell. I have an issue when I have come to step 23 and 24. After removing the rubber for the four screws, the screw heads are not shown, instead a metal plate is present. Any ideas ??

ngrafton - 16/04/15

It's just a foil like material if you haven't figured that out by now. Cut a little deeper but not all the way around, you can use a small amount of adhesive to put the black screw covers back in place, otherwise you'll be staring at screw heads every time you open the 3ds xl.

jehusk - 03/06/15

i can't open the top screen

Christopher Hunter - 31/10/15

Be careful ! this guide is not finished ! there is a lake of informations about how to extract the LCD top screen and how to open the hinge.

My first LCD top screen replacement for a 3DS XL was very difficult. Hard if you are a beginner.

Frederic Morelli - 13/12/15

Warning: if you are a beginner, don't attempt this. I have taken apart many ds lites and put them together and I found this challenging.

Megan - 18/12/15

This was so IRRITATING Not enough description in step 29

Cody Rozema - 27/02/16

Please see my comment in step 29. I hope it helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

The upper LCd ribbon when u put it in does the contact side of the ribbon go towards the motherboard or does the contact Side face up

Dave - 03/03/16

OK so I got the upper screen and hook everything back up hit the power button an the bottom screen flashes then the power light turns off anyone know what I could have done wrong

Dave - 03/03/16

Hello all ok I got it together I hit power button light comes on lower screen flashes then powers off anybody know what I could have done wrong

Dave - 03/03/16

One of your cables isnt fully connected

Patrick Wulfe - 03/04/16

Sounds like top screen cable may have been damaged, or the ribbon cable for it isn't seated properly in the connector if you haven't fixed this already.

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

For anyone having problems removing or re-installing the ribbon cable, see this video for a technique that could hopefully ease the pain:

https://youtu.be/OAUEms0X5TQ

djrpascu - 13/04/16

I put the new upper screen in an it won't power on blue light just flashes for a second

Dave - 11/06/16

Don't know if you'll see my other reply but if your bottom screen flashes white for a second then there's a problem with the top LCD. Either the ribbon cable is damaged, or its not properly fitted into the connector (hanging out or wrong way round). If the cable is damaged (tears can be very difficult to spot) then you'll need a new top LCD. Hope this helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 29/06/16

Totally wrecked the plastic covers and the foil covers mentioned in step 23. Find an easier workaround than tweezers unless you want to be seeing screws every time you open your DS.

Ari Aviles - 08/07/16

I use a fine sewing needle, dig it down the corner of one of them as far as you can before levering the screw cover up, that way you're less likely to destroy them :) James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 08/08/16

The cable that feeds through the hinge on my ads xl is ripped, what should i buy to replace it?

Don Bittle - 23/07/16

Depends which cable is ripped. If it's the black one that's the camera. The thinner orange one is speaker flex cable. The thicker orange is the top LCD. Hope this helps. James @ RGR

Retro Gaming Repair - 08/08/16

My lcd ribbon cable when twisted and put through the hinge it's always upside down? Is there a method to get it the right side up?

Tony Azarian - 01/09/16

what would cause the bottom LCD display to not work? the touch function does but i can't see anything

Steve Taylor - 15/09/16

If the outer screen is not cracked and the sound still works do you need to buy those parts too?

mercenarywarlord - 22/09/16

I have replaced the top screen, it receives power but doesn't display content, anyone have any ideas?

kyle1986 - 24/09/16

Hello, somebody had problems with the top case reinstall?. Thanks.

hernanlopezpardo - 21/10/16

The IR board is kinda obvious which way it should point. This was not an easy repair in my opinion. It had me cussing and swearing through out the entire repair. But I was surprised when it all worked properly! I was sure I had torn a ribbon cable, forgot something or put something in backwards. Not sure I would do one again.

pwatton2003 - 07/12/16

I have a 2015 3DS XL and the top screen needs to be replaced. I noticed there are multiple top screens replacements out there, does anyone know the correct top screen I need to order? Or where I can find a model # to match against?

3dsdj - 23/12/16

I have the 2013 3DS XL Mario and Luigi Dream team edition, not sure what screen to order

Kfalls fan - 26/02/17

Where did this guy find the screwdrivers? Cause i need those, one day i will do a teardown.

Santi12008 - 03/03/17

Ottima Guida.

Seguendo i passi si riesce a completare il lavoro perfettamente.(occhio a rimontare il modulo IR al contrario di come rappresentato in foto, altrimenti quando si accende la Ds non visualizza niente a schermo; c'è scritto anche sulla nota a fianco della foto.

Le difficoltà maggiori sono nel far passare il cavo flat del nuovo LCD che deve essere attorcigliato attorno al cavo verde antenna.

Buon lavoro e grazie Ifix.

Gianluca - 11/03/17

Hey there. Just followed the guide and finished the replacement of the top screen. Current predicament is that the system is charging (orange LED comes on) but it will not turn on. I tried reseating the wifi board, resat most of the ribbon cables, and double checked everything again. I do not have the pop sound that some others have been having. When I push the power button, the screens stay black but the orange charging light does turn off for a moment before coming back on.

I know that this 3DS XL turned on before starting the upper LCD replacement.

Nools McSpanner - 04/08/17

Replacing the upper screen is definitely not easy but I did it! As already stated by others: Putting the ribbon cables back through the hinge is the worst part and I think it is absolutely necessary to disassemble the hinge and take the two halves of the 3DS XL apart, like in the already mentioned YouTube video.

So – for the most part – this is a good guide with good pictures. But the last steps, removing the ribbons from the hinge and putting them back, need additional instructions and possibly more photos. Pulling them out of the hinge without complete disassembly will most likely tear the ribbons.

I did this repair for the first time and it took me several hours. If you want to do this: Take your time and be extra careful. I recommend watching some videos AND using this guide. The retaining flaps are very fragile. If you break one, that’s probably equal to a “Game Over” for your console.

Kara_S - 08/11/17

Yes, i have tried to get mine back together and i have put in the ribbon cables in backwards? The one that goes to the back side of the board (black stripe) and the smaller and larger one on the front of the motherboard. This will be the 3rd time i try it, i am triple checking everything, i am so close, i will not give up. Please everyone, check everything several times to save yourself a lot of grief. Take care and good luck on your repairs!

Anthony - 03/02/19

I did it. My son had cracked his upper LCD on his New 3DS XL. It took about 3.5hrs. As said before, you have to take the hinge apart. I followed the YouTube video but slowed it down to 1/4 speed. Also, use a #00 screwdriver as mentioned above by Vannicke Trabeitt

dalemcbroom - 06/01/18

Check out my video of how to get the ribbon cable through the hinge, which is the hardest part of this repair:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAUEms0X...

djrpascu - 09/09/18

At the display glas part definitely use gloves. I ruined this last step out of my fatty fingers and a wrong display cleaner.

Julian - 31/10/18

My top screen repair is going to give me anxiety. OH GOD. I don’t like the ribbon cable positioning.

anticream39 - 07/04/19

This guide does not show you HOW to put the ribbon table through the hole some use the hinge removal and the metal ring on the other side but sadly the guide stops before you can complete this project. I use a toothpick and tape the end of the ribbon cable and roll it up a little and feed it through the hinge hole. I NOW have to replace the whole shell on a black one because its all cracked and has come away from the console.

michael v - 16/08/19

I lost the B button in the process lmao. everything went pretty well. no thanks to this guide. everything is super easy on your own up to the hinge and reattaching the top screen. which isn’t even mentioned in the guide. thanks, Connor. you saved my repair from disaster

Ethan Pimm - 24/10/19

I got it all back together and it does not power on. I have the IR board correct. I assume one of the cables is upside down. How can you tell the correct orientation of the cable when clamping them down?

Pharkas Gammer - 17/12/19

small upper right cable in step 18 needs to have metal contacts facing upwards!!!! Most other cables have contacts facing the motherboard. This should be mentioned in the steps.

Pharkas Gammer - 17/12/19

This guide would be really helpful if I was told (preferably in detail) step-by-step on how to put my 3DS XL back together. Especially step 26. I’ve had the worst time trying to find a tutorial that properly tells me how to pop my outer case back into my system.

Cynthia - 31/10/20

Thanks for putting this guide together. Needed a quick refresher so I didn’t end up breaking things even more than they already were.

The only thing that I think might be helpful is putting the info about how to unlock the hinge for removal. I feel like a lot of people might of missed the link that some very kind people posted in the comments section, judging by some of the comments here. It definitely drove me crazy trying to figure out how to break it down years ago… Maybe it easier to find now.

Thanks again.

Matthew D. H. - 01/03/21

will the 3ds xl boot up if i do not have the camera that goes in the front?

David Ibarra - 04/05/21

My friend accidentally microwaved his 3ds xl when he was younger. i am fixing right now. the two ribbon cables aboce the white joystick box are fried. any idea on where i can get the two new cables?

Andrew Henneberg -