Introduzione

Segui questa guida per sostituire lo schermo crepato o rotto del tuo Samsung Galaxy Watch Active2.

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    • Spegni il Galaxy Watch Active2 tenendo premuto il tasto inferiore per circa 3 secondi. Dovresti sentire una breve vibrazione.

    • Quando compare il simbolo "Spegni", premi il centro dello schermo per farlo spegnere. Dovresti sentire una vibrazione più lunga come conferma.

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    • Usa un cacciavite Tri-Point Y00 per svitare le quattro viti da 4 mm sul retro dell'orologio.

    Y1.5 works just as good

    BRIAN MIRANDA -

    Bekomme ich nicht auf … Schrauben zu fest

    Tino Wehner -

    The screws are attached to the cover. So you just need to loose them, not remove them.

    Yonic Surny -

    Any tips for a too tight screw ?

    Daisy Doune -

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    • Posiziona un plettro tra la copertura posteriore in plastica e la cassa in metallo vicino ai tasti.

    • Spingi il plettro nella fessura per separare la copertura posteriore dalla cassa.

    • Non rimuovere ancora del tutto la copertura posteriore. C'è un cavo che la collega alla scheda madre.

    There is a glue-ish gasket keeping it closed. I used an exacto knife to start it opening.

    BRIAN MIRANDA -

    This was super helpful thank you! Perfect timing

    this is trash -

    Waarmee kan ik de achterste oplaadplaat weer vast lijmen op de achterste behuizing

    Ilona Smit -

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    • Solleva attentamente la copertura posteriore per accedere al connettore del gruppo dei sensori.

    • Usa un spudger per scollegare il gruppo dei sensori dalla scheda madre.

    Ou je peu me procurer le tourne vis tri point 000

    grenierlulu -

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    • Rimuovi la copertura posteriore.

    Where would you recommend buying a new back panel/charger?

    Nathan Williams -

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    • Usa uno spudger per scollegare il gruppo dello schermo e l'altoparlante.

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    • Usa uno spudger per scollegare il sensore barometrico, i tasti e il microfono.

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    • Infila uno spudger sotto la scheda madre in alto a destra, accanto al connettore dello schermo.

    • Ruota leggermente lo spudger per rilasciare il gruppo della scheda madre.

    • Leggere i commenti sotto questo passo e il successivo potrebbe aiutarti se stai avendo difficoltà.

    I would not suggest to do so. There are components underneath the motherboard as well. There are none in this specific corner, but the core assembly does not come out that easily and people might try other corners and positions. Rather unscrew the motherboard and remove the battery from the core assembly directly.

    Nicola Tambascia -

    Yes! I was unable to remove the motherboard as pictured unless the screw was removed (Step 12). I suggest a re-ordering of steps in this guide.

    Jerry Rattanong -

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    • Prendi il gruppo della scheda madre e sfilalo attentamente da sotto i cavi.

    • Rimuovi il gruppo della scheda madre.

    I had to remove that screw on the core assembly using a Phillips 000. When I initially tried lifting, the core assembly started to bend. Mine also has a connector under the core assembly near the thumb in the picture. The connector goes from the underside of the core assembly to the screen/body. It prevents me from removing the core assembly as I'm not sure how it should be removed examining it

    Louis Finney -

    This step is really difficult, and I'm still not sure it was necessary. The core assembly is really packed in there, and it took me several attempts, lifting from various corners. Don't pull by the circuit board. It will bend if you're not careful. You've got to get under the core assembly. I had the most luck starting next to the display connector at the top, then moving to the sensor on the other end of the board (barometric sensor), then moving to the speakers on the left, and finally lifting from multiple points once it was out far enough. In really hoping I didn't damage anything.

    Karl Arp -

    I think the comments here should be added to the step before.

    Nicola Tambascia -

    I would be very careful following Louis Finney's advice above. They are describing detaching the motherboard from the core assembly which also includes the battery and internal frame. Removing the motherboard from the rest of the core assembly exposes a very delicate looking ribbon cable that I nearly tore by trying to remove the screw holding the motherboard in place.

    As Karl Arp notes, trying to pry the core assembly up by the motherboard feels like it puts a lot of strain on the circuit board, so it might be necessary to go at it from multiple angles.


    Removing the whole core assembly was very difficult, and required a lot more force than I was expecting, and I had the luxury of being able to approach it from both sides, as the screen had already detached from the device (hence the need to repair), and still found it very challenging.

    I would advise, at a minimum applying mild heat to the metal outer frame to hopefully cause it to expand and give some additional clearance.

    Philip Hickey -

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    • Posiziona il bordo di uno strumento di apertura sotto l'unità dello speaker.

    • Fai leva con lo strumento di apertura per separare lo schermo dalla cornice.

    This was super simple to do after putting a bit of heat to the screen first. the adhesive peeled right up. Just be careful not to put too much heat to it or you can damage the screen.

    Mick -

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    • Rimuovi la cornice dallo schermo.

    • Assicurati di rimuovere qualsiasi adesivo rimasto dalla cornice con dell'alcool isopropilico (>90%) prima di applicarne di nuovo o installare il nuovo schermo.

    Bonjour, mon écran c'est d'écolé mais fonctionne toujours. Comment je peux le recoller ou avec quoi ?

    Yannick Babin -

Conclusione

Se possibile, accendi il tuo dispositivo e prova la tua riparazione prima di applicare il nuovo adesivo e richiudere il tutto.

Applica del nuovo adesivo dove necessario dopo aver pulito le zone interessate con dell'alcool isopropilico (>90%). Potresti dover rimuovere le protezioni adesive dal nuovo schermo prima di installarlo.

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.

La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova delle soluzioni di base ai problemi, oppure rivolgiti alla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto.

Tobias Isakeit

Membro da: 31/03/14

116550 Reputazione

15 commenti

Does anyone know where to buy the replacement screen for Active 2? Or what keywords should I search for (SKU or model)?

Angelo Sembrano -

SM-R830 for the 40mm version, SM-R820 for the 44mm one. People on ebay resell them but they cost upwards of $100. I’d look into broken watches of the same type that maybe the battery is dead and they’re selling it for cheap, then do a swap job on the (hopefully) working screen.

Justin Collins -

Seconding the question on where to buy a replacement screen

Arjun Ramakrishnan -

You could be lucky on rounded.com

Tobias Isakeit -

What adhesive would be best to use?

Kelsey Crank -

This E600 adhesive could work for you if carefully applied not spilling it over the back of the display.

Tobias Isakeit -

I broke my 40mm Active1 screen, anyone know if I can put in a 40mm Watch 4 screen in and get the better resolution?

Kevin Vågen -

Is there a way to test the existing display? I made mistake of swimming in watch and it went into a continual reboot loop before it quit doing anything. I've got a replacement battery and installed it pretty easily but even when everything is put together except the back screws, nothing happened on the display when I put it on a known to be working charger. When I compare the appearance of the display connector and the slot on the motherboard to the pictures in the tutorial it looks like there is some corrosion or the likes there that I am working on removing with Deoxit DN5. But I am trying to sort out if the display itself is damaged or if the bit of corrosion there is keeping it from powering up. I have a voltmeter and the battery seems to be putting out the power that it should be.

ehcasey70 -

I just took mine apart due to water damage and it charges fully but no display. I also have some type of corrosion on the display connectors, so it sounds very similar.

Richard Welch -

ma montre ne charge plus, si le problème ne vient pas du socle il vient donc de la montre, si j'achète toute la coque arrière, la charge marchera t elle ?

Wiwi Bobo -

brilliant ! easy and nice to follow thank you

Tómas -

<h1>I DONT CARE LOL LLLLL STUPID WATCH APPLE WATCH BETTER</h1>

fref43wq -

Mi reloj se queda en reboot y no pasa de ahí, alguien sabe como repararlo?

Karen Granados -

I actually used a Tri-point Y0 screwdriver instead of the Y00 to remove the back screws. They both fit, but the Y00 was just too small to get a secure grip and started stripping one of the screws. After I switched to the Y0 I was able to remove the stripped screw and just continued to use that one without switching back.

D Contelmo -

Where can we buy the screen GLUE only? My screen is fine, the adhesive has just worn off.

JacobD -