Sostituzione ventola MacBook Pro Unibody 13" metà 2009

Scritto Da: Walter Galan
  • Commenti: 21
Sostituzione ventola MacBook Pro Unibody 13" metà 2009

Difficoltà

Facile

Passi

6

Tempo Necessario

15 minuti

Introduzione

Sostituisci la ventola difettosa per tenere fresco il tuo portatile.

  1. dOyroxuUBfNu1T4K

    • Rimuovi le dieci viti seguenti, che fissano il case inferiore al MacBook Pro Unibody da 13":

    • Sette viti con testa a croce da 3 mm.

    • Tre viti con testa a croce da 13,5 mm.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

  2. bLtKOLyJdyAxkZaG

    • Solleva leggermente il case inferiore e spingilo verso la parte posteriore del computer per liberare le linguette di montaggio.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

  3. B1SUXfcr5fruMavs

    • Per precauzione, suggeriamo di scollegare il connettore della batteria dalla scheda logica per evitare eventuali scariche elettriche.

    • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, sollevare il connettore del cavo della batteria dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica staccandolo da questa.

    Citazione da gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

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    • Usa uno spudger per scollegare il connettore della ventola dalla sua presa sollevandolo dalla scheda madre.

    • Può essere utile ruotare lo spudger da sotto il cavo della ventola per scollegare il connettore.

    • La presa e il connettore della ventola sono mostrati nella seconda e terza immagine. Stai attento a non rompere la presa in plastica sulla scheda madre mentre fai leva con lo spudger per scollegare il connettore. La disposizione della scheda madre nella seconda immagine può essere leggermente diversa per il tuo dispositivo, ma la presa è identica.

    I just soldered it back on. . . I tried to clean the pads with braid first, but it didn't do much so I don't think that's necessary. I first supper-glued it in place with the pins on the pads and then I put a tiny dab of solder on each pin/pad. Plugged in the fan and i works!

    Ron Hudson -

    Just the answer I was looking for Ron! Awesome work buddy!

    lucasjmenzie -

    i recommend not to use the spudger. you damage more than by unpluggin the plug by hand. just simply pull the cable close to the plug of the old fan softly upwards out. the plug than comes easily out. put the new fan in and push the new plug by hand in. it is much easier than using a spudger. i also started with a spudger but nearly broke the plug out, so i watched a youtube tutorial and learned about it…

    andre -

  5. 3Nc1eu6YQ2EkLTyw

    • Svita le seguenti tre viti che fissano la ventola al case superiore:

    • Una vite a croce Phillips da 6,5 mm

    • Una vite a croce Phillips da 5,5 mm

    • Una vite a croce Phillips da 4,5 mm

  6. PIOdxKZehcYT1lNG

    • Solleva la ventola dal case superiore.

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Walter Galan

693762 Reputazione

3 commenti

I upgraded my macbook pro 13" mid 2009:

replaced optical drive with 250GB SSD.

replaced 2x2GB RAM with 2x4GB.

replaced old battery..

Things work, except the fan never slows down and makes a lot of noise.

The fan start at full speed as soon as I click the power button, even before the screen lights up.

Please help.

Also the bluetooth and camera stopped working :(

abhi -

When I reapplied thermal paste to my heat sink ~18 month ago, I had issues reconnecting the camera cable (see Step 10 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2009 Heat Sink Replacement). All of the symptoms you described were exactly those I saw when my camera cable was not properly reconnected. Perhaps you should check here.

NicoleCLDay -

If you didn't get a thermal sensor for your ssd your Mac fan will run at full speed 24/7 until you get the sensor

Jake / -