Sotituzione Subwoofer e Speaker Destro MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Metà 2010

Scritto Da: Walter Galan
  • Commenti: 29
Sotituzione Subwoofer e Speaker Destro MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Metà 2010

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

14

Tempo Necessario

15 - 20 minuti

Introduzione

Sotituisci il subwoofer e lo speaker destro sul tuo MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Metà 2010.

  1. dOyroxuUBfNu1T4K

    • Rimuovi le dieci viti seguenti, che fissano il case inferiore al MacBook Pro Unibody da 13":

    • Sette viti con testa a croce da 3 mm.

    • Tre viti con testa a croce da 13,5 mm.

    Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.

    David Kilbridge -

    Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.

    mastover -

    I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.

    adlerpe -

    That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.

    joyitsjennie -

    Great idea and one I use often

    Thomas Overstreet -

    Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.

    Laura Sharkey -

    I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm

    valentinedhdh -

    I use a magnetic mat and place the screws in order on that :)

    Cary B -

  2. bLtKOLyJdyAxkZaG

    • Solleva leggermente il case inferiore e spingilo verso la parte posteriore del computer per liberare le linguette di montaggio.

    In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...

    It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)

    Mike -

    Long story short: I drank the AppleKoolAid back in 1984 and have always left the guts of my machines up to Apple - until recently when I needed to swap the SATAs from my original MacDaddy (2009 13" MBPro that I killed in 2018 - coffee + blackout = OOOOPS) into a pristine 2009 MBPro from a Goodwill in North Carolina through eBay. I need the files from iCal and MacMail that can't be opened in my newer machines.

    Well . . . I ain't never done nuttin' like that, before!

    Enter Luke Miani on YouTube. He raves about you guys! So, I watched everything I could, read your site, bought the right tools and at the ripe old age of 72, I sat down, this morning and did the work. Now my original MacDaddy lives in MacDaddy2.0.

    Am I allowed to cry?

    Seriously, I can't thank you enough for your bitchen site and killer tools. I wish I'd'a been turned on to this shizzle 30+ years ago.

    IFIXIT - IDIGIT!

    kath myers -

    HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.

    That was a brilliant read.

    Yes, I came across ifixit a few years ago. Totally helped me out on several occasions.

    Glad your Mac repair journey worked out.

    :)

    Cary B -

  3. B1SUXfcr5fruMavs

    • Per precauzione, suggeriamo di scollegare il connettore della batteria dalla scheda logica per evitare eventuali scariche elettriche.

    • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, sollevare il connettore del cavo della batteria dal connettore femmina sulla scheda logica staccandolo da questa.

    Citazione da gansodesoya:

    why is step 3 necessary?

    Just to disconnect any power source to avoid damages by short-circuits.

    MrKane -

    How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?

    Horace Chung -

    yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).

    maccentric -

    This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,

    Jeff Diamond -

  4. f1PBEcXqISgoBBeE

    • Per precauzione, suggeriamo di scollegare il connettore del subwoofer dalla scheda logica per evitare eventuali scariche elettriche. Il passaggio è facoltativo.

    • Rimuovere l'eventuale imbottitura morbida sulla parte superiore ed estrarre delicatamente il connettore dal rispettivo connettore femmina sulla scheda logica.

    It is not necessary to remove the camera cable connector (step 5) or the camera cable connector (step 10). Simply push the camera cable gently aside to remove one of the three screws securing the optical drive (step 11). Gently wiggle the optical drive from under the camera cable connector and go to step 12. Less chance of ruining your motherboard!

    tomhart -

    Absolutely. Leave it alone, you don’t need to run the risks of removing this cable, I did the replacement fine without it

    Steven Taylor -

    It does indeed come out of the connector, but the picture makes it hard to see how; the connector it goes into sits on top of the board—however, I, too, ripped mine off the board trying to remove it; I only got it out of the clip after I tore it off. SIMPLY DONT; it's unnecessary. I plan to solder it back if one of my Robotics club friends lets me borrow a soldering iron.

    Rachel -

    Alors je déconseille très fortement de toucher ce connecteur, il est extrêmement fragile. De plus, cela n’a pas d’incidence sur la suite des opérations

    Laskoni -

    The author needs to go back through this guide and correct lots of order mistakes. The fan was removed in steps 3-5 yet it’s still being shown installed in steps 19-22.

    plink53 -

    The 4-pin push connector for the sub-woofer is near impossible to reconnect

    It mates with a female connector that sits on top of 4 tiny solder points (it's held on by a spot of glue, I believe), and when applying ANY pressure to connect, the side clip(s) will snap off. Then the connector itself will become unglued. It would be simple enough to connect the 2 parts, then place a drop of glue on the logic board after positioning it above the solder points, but the female connector broke apart in my hand. So now screwed, with no way to connect sub/ R speaker without installing another logic board. Fan connector looks to be exactly the same

    Peter Watkins -

  5. UqV1W6hCDkuY3GX5

    • Sarà necessario far scorrere il piccolo fermacavo in plastica trasparente (nel riquadro rosso) incollato alla scheda logica lontano dalla posizione originaria prima di scollegare il cavo della fotocamera. Fare attenzione a non spezzare i componenti dalla scheda mentre la si fa scorrere dal connettore del cavo della fotocamera.

    • Tirare il connettore del cavo della fotocamera verso l'unità ottica per scollegarlo dalla scheda logica.

    • Questo connettore metallico femmina potrebbe piegarsi facilmente. Verificare di aver allineato il connettore con il rispettivo connettore femmina sulla scheda logica prima di unire i due componenti.

    I just completed this replacement and there is no need to do this step, you can work around this cable pretty easily. Obviously you need to be careful "dancing" around it. But it's perfectly feasible and you don't risk to break stuff disconnecting it.

    Massimo C -

  6. tuxg3OGGIPuIuMRY

    • Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per rimuovere il connettore dell'unità ottica estraendolo dalla scheda logica.

  7. TNOtRX5FDIQsFoLK

    • Utilizzare l'estremità piatta di un inseritore per rimuovere il connettore del disco rigido estraendolo dalla scheda logica.

  8. wSQNxJGjLUTNfdTP

    • Rimuovere le viti seguenti, che fissano il subwoofer al case superiore:

    • Una vite con testa a croce da 3,8 mm

    • Una vite con testa a croce da 5 mm

    On my computer, the 3.8 mm screw was near the midpoint of the subwoofer (left-to-right in the photo) and near the bottom. The 5 mm screw was top right of the subwoofer.

    BobG -

  9. dTVeRQgySo3yQXnF
    dTVeRQgySo3yQXnF
    JJmWNsPABD4I1VBY

    • Il subwoofer è ancora collegato all'altoparlante destro, pertanto non deve essere ancora rimosso completamente.

    • Sollevare subwoofer dall'unità ottica e riporlo sopra il computer.

  10. K1rWEP2JG6cnIuHC
    K1rWEP2JG6cnIuHC
    MAfyDqKrnSZvXmuU

    • Rimuovere le due viti con testa a croce da 10 mm che fissano la staffa del cavo della fotocamera al case superiore.

    • La vite all'estrema sinistra potrebbe restare nel cavo della fotocamera.

    • Sollevare la staffa del cavo della fotocamera fuori dal case superiore.

  11. w3ESKYtGUsAGmLAx
    w3ESKYtGUsAGmLAx
    gPkoAiNYHXBAJPYQ

    • Rimuovere le tre viti con testa a croce da 2,5 mm che fissano l'unità ottica al case superiore.

    • Sollevare l'unità ottica dal bordo destro ed estrarla dal computer.

    Install 2 outside screws first and then single inside screw to allow wiggle room to get outside screws in. Do not tighten screws until all are started.

    JASON CULP -

  12. SGakHNJvgvE52ADc

    • Rimuovi il nastro adesivo nero che copre il cavo dello speaker destro.

    • Fai attenzione, in quanto il cavo piatto del pulsante di accensione è subito sotto il pezzo di nastro.

  13. H15iYpeFFMdwjGhJ

    • Usa la punta dello spudger per far leva sullo speaker destro e sollevarlo dall'adesivo che lo tiene fermo sulla scocca superiore.

    I recommend you to use for this step an opening tool instead the spudger. The jimmy is a good option

    Toni -

    The new speakers don’t come with adhesive, so some double sided tape is handy. Also, the right speaker cable can be rather long, so some tape is useful to carefully loop it out the way.

    Steven Taylor -

  14. lEwtQaO54ExHaQEU

    • Solleva il gruppo subwoofer e speaker destro dalla scocca superiore.

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni nell'ordine inverso.

Autore

Walter Galan

693762 Reputazione

3 commenti

Oh yeaAAHHH! Right speaker & subwoofer fixed. Thank you!

eepmon -

The replacement subwoofer connector (step 4, which disconnection is required, not optional)was just a bit shorter, and just barely fit, so it was ‘iffy’ whether I’d get it to stay, but it did. Yea! No more sound distortion!!! Such an easy thing to fix!

wyrra -

Hello, I've just brought a MacBook Pro 8,1 to life with an SSD. It works great but unfortunately no sound. There is no output listed in sound window. I tried cmd+opt+P+R without success. Would replacing the speaker assembly solve the problem or is this a hardware problem? Thanx

PS- I also restarted cord...something in processes that didn't work either.

edwood -