Xbox 360 Wireless Controller D-pad Replacement

Scritto Da: Brett Hartt
  • Commenti: 12
Xbox 360 Wireless Controller D-pad Replacement

Difficoltà

Moderate

Passi

13

Tempo Necessario

Nessuna stima

Introduzione

Give your games some direction. Replace the D-pad on your Xbox 360 wireless controller.

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    • Depress the battery release button on the top of the controller.

    • Remove the battery holder from the controller.

    • The standard option for Xbox 360 Wireless Controllers Battery Packs is AA batteries. A rechargeable battery is also available, but both battery options are removed from the controller in the same way.

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to peel the barcode sticker from the battery compartment.

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    • Remove the seven 9.3 mm T8 Security Torx screws securing the rear case to the front case.

    Any recommendation on which set of Security Torx tools to use? I've already purchased 2 kits, one of those being sold as "Xbox controller tools" but the diameter of the head does not fit the hole on the controller and that's critical for the 2 screws on the bottom. The tools must obviously be thinner in diameter and long enough to get there.

    Arnie -

    How to open an XBOX 360 controller without a special screwdriver. http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-o... Works perfectly.

    Louis -

    A lot of thanks for your comment. It's very usefull

    Echedey -

    I picked up a handy torx key set from Auto Zone. Was about $10, no lose driver bits. has both sizes you need to repair the controller and the console. Here's the link:

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accesso...

    FierDancr -

    It doesn't really matter which set of bits you by or what brand makes them, Torx bits (and the security versions of them) are generic & come in standardized sizes. You do not need a special "xbox" tool kit, you just need a size 8 torx security bit, no matter what brand makes the bit/kit. Those types of "specialty kits" are usually just collections of generic bits that you can buy at a hardware store in a regular bit set. The difference is that a general bit set will have bits for screws that a specific item doesn't have in it, whereas a specialty kit will only include bits for the types & sizes of fasteners used in the specified item.

    BTW, with the smaller sizes of torx security bits you can try breaking off the little post in the middle with needlenose pliers or something else that can fit in the there. Even if the post doesn't break off cleanly, it's usually short enough to fit a regular (non security) torx bit in the slot.

    Nerfbomb -

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    • Insert a Spudger between the front and rear cases along the left edge of the controller.

    • Rotate the spudger toward the front of the controller, prying the two cases apart.

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    • Insert a spudger between the front and rear cases, near the headphone jack.

    • Rotate the spudger toward the front of the controller to pry the two cases apart.

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    • Grasp the controller by the battery compartment and the headphone jack.

    • Lift the battery compartment away from the headphone jack, separating the rear case from the front case and logic board.

    • The battery contact springs are held in place by slots in the battery housing in the rear case. Be sure to realign them properly during reassembly.

    The RB / LB bar will fall away easily as you handle the upper case and logic board; just be prepared for it.

    knoxco -

    Good information

    mazvilaa640 -

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to remove the vibration motor cable, moving it upward from its socket on the logic board.

    • Lift the vibration motor out of the front case.

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    • Remove the vibration motor from the other side of the controller using the same method previously described.

    • The left motor has significantly more counterweight than the right motor.

    The opposite was true for the controller I just opened. It was the left motor counterweight (as you hold the controller normally) which had more weight. Perhaps it doesn't matter which goes where?

    Bob S -

    For anyone reading this in the future, it does matter. The way you had them originally is the correct way.

    Yado Nada -

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    • Lifting from the headphone jack and power plug, remove the logic board from the front case.

    What if you're having difficulty taking the logic board out?

    Xander Uchida -

    In my experience with my controller, the logic board lifts out very easily, there are no tabs or fasteners holding it in.

    So, if you're having difficulty taking the logic board out, call a friend with average hand dexterity & motor skills to do it for you.

    Nerfbomb -

    If the controller is a bit old, the center plastic screw holder might have swollen and will need a little stenght to release the logic board.

    RoFixedIt -

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    • Remove the rubber pad from the back of the D-pad.

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    • Remove the two 7.0 mm silver Phillips screws from the back of the D-pad.

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    • The D-pad is secured to its backing by two diagonal clips, shown in red.

    • Use a pair of tweezers and squeeze the clips together to release the D-pad from its backing.

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    • Lift the D-pad backing out of its compartment on the front case.

    • The D-pad remains below the front case.

    • The D-pad will fall once its backing is removed. Be sure to support it as you remove the backing.

    • The backing is slotted in its compartment to ensure that it will always be aligned properly.

Conclusione

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Autore

Brett Hartt

Membro da: 13/04/10

127718 Reputazione

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