iPad Mini Wi-Fi Logic Board Replacement

Passo 1

We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.
Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.
For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

Passo 2

Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst. Do not attempt to heat over 100˚C (212˚F).
Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.
If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

Passo 3

Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

Passo 4

If you don't have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.
Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.
Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

Passo 5

If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

In case of broken glass, here are some hints:

- I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.

- Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.

- Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.

- Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.

- Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.

- Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.

- If needed: repeat in other direction.

- If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.

Good luck, you brave person!

volty - 30/03/16

This is the second broken screen I’ve fixed. Overlapped package tape carefully stuck to the glass and trimmed to the edges will contain most of the shards. I found that a hair dryer works for softening the glue. After getting under an edge with the suction cup I carefully followed the opening sequence using a combination of plastic picks and a single edge razor blade to get under the small pieces. It was slow going with lots of reheating with the dryer (about 45 minutes), but the taped glass came off without glass everywhere.

Bill Roughen - 05/12/17

Passo 6

Handling it by the tab, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
Let the iOpener sit for about five minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

I worked at it for over 2 hours before deciding to microwave the opener for 45 seconds at a time. That seemed to do the trick.

jaromhyde - 19/12/15

Passo 7

Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
Be careful to only lift the glass enough to insert an opening pick—any more and you may risk cracking the glass.

This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

robloomis - 16/07/15

just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer

echow2001 - 24/12/15

for shattered screens I cover the screen with tape. I find packing tape works best for me.

George - 02/01/16

Passo 8

While holding the glass up with the suction cup, slide the point of an opening pick into the gap between the glass and body of the iPad.
Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.
Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

you have to pull up on the suction cup harder than you might be comfortable with!

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

thanks jfaulks1 (I did not copy and paste lol)

iliketrains kid -

Passo 9

Reheat and reapply the iOpener.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Always wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
Let it rest for a few minutes to reheat the left edge of the iPad.

Passo 10

Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
Throughout the rest of the procedure, if you encounter significant resistance to sliding picks beneath the glass, stop and reheat the section you're working on. Forcing the picks risks cracking the glass.

Passo 11

Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.

Passo 12

Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.

Passo 13

Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least ten minutes before reheating the iOpener.
If you have a flexible iOpener, you can bend it to heat both the upper left corner and the upper edge at the same time.

I left my iOpener on the bezel the entire time I slid picks in. worked great

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

Passo 14

Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

Gezz this is though! Cracked the glass while replacing it.

Padraic Hoselton - 26/02/18

:( sad (rip glass lol)

iliketrains kid -

Passo 15

Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
The third image shows where the front-facing camera and housing are in the iPad.
Avoid sliding the opening pick over the front-facing camera, as you may smear adhesive onto the lens or damage the camera. The following steps will detail how to best avoid disturbing the front-facing camera.

Passo 16

Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.

Passo 17

Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, where the first pick just was. Slide it back to the corner to completely cut any remaining adhesive.
Leave the second pick in place to prevent the corner adhesive from re-sealing as it cools.

Passo 18

Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.

Shattered my screen pretty bad here, making it so that whenever I continued to move the pick the glass separated and I couldn’t continue moving it. Be VERY gentle moving the pick; almost no force is required.

Jasper Holden - 25/08/19

Passo 19

Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining long side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.

Passo 20

Slide the top right opening pick around the corner to fully release the top edge of the glass.
Leave this pick in place to keep the adhesive from re-sealing itself, and grab a new pick for the next step.

Passo 21

Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.

Passo 22

Continue to slide the pick down the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive.

Passo 23

Leave the opening picks in place and reheat the iOpener.
Remember not to overheat the iOpener—no more than once every ten minutes.
Set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad and let it rest for a few minutes to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.

Passo 24

Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
There are quite a few things to avoid beneath the lower bezel, so study the third image closely:
Antennas
Home button cavity
Digitizer cable
The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.

Passo 25

Leave the pick from the last step in place to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.
With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
Only slide the pick from the outer edge toward the center of the iPad. Do not move the pick back toward the outer edge, as moving in this direction may damage the antenna.
If you need to slide the pick over the lower section more than once, remove it and re-insert at the outer edge, and slide inwards.
Leave the pick in place before moving on.

Passo 26

Insert the tip of one last pick next to the previous step's pick, and slide it beneath the home button.
Stop about an inch from the right-hand side to avoid cutting the digitizer cable.
Insert the pick slightly deeper and work it back toward the home button.
Again, be sure to only slide the pick toward the center of the iPad when it is fully inserted; otherwise you may damage the antenna beneath the glass.

Passo 27

Reheat and reapply the iOpener to the top bezel of the iPad.

Passo 28

Be very careful with this step. Take your time and ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and that you've been through all of the adhesive with an opening pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.
At the top of the iPad opposite the home button, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along all four edges.
If you encounter a significant amount of resistance, stop twisting. Leave the picks in place, reheat, and reapply the iOpener to the problem areas, and run a pick through the sticking point one more time.

Passo 29

Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the lower edge.

Really, add a few more pics and a few more picks, see how long and difficult you can make this guide. 26 steps to get the top screen off is ridiculous.

B. A. Computer Services - 17/01/23

Passo 30

Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
If reusing the front panel assembly during reassembly, you will need to replace the display adhesive. Use our display adhesive application guide to reapply your display adhesive and reseal your device.

I recommend wearing latex gloves or be sure not to put too many finger prints on the front or back of this front glass when lifting it or completing the remainder of the steps. I made this mistake and upon installing the new LCD and putting the iPad back together I realized that I left a few finger prints on the inside of the front glass. After re-securing the adhesive strips putting the iPad back together there are now unremovable fingerprints visible when the LCD is turned off. Just a recommendation on the gloves or be sure to wipe both sides of the front glass clean before putting all back together.

Christian Screen - 13/01/20

Passo 31

The front-facing camera housing may stick to the front panel; peel up the housing and place it back over the camera to protect it.
Rock the camera housing up on one edge to free it from the adhesive and remove it from the front panel.
Return the front-facing camera housing to its recess in the rear case.

this didn’t happen to me BUT the glue was still sticking to the top of the glass because one pick had gone OVER the glue and the other under, so I had to pull the glue off and cut it with scissors

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

OK this was glue, it was the tape from step 35!

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

Passo 32

Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case.
Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.
Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.

Passo 33

The top left LCD screw may be covered by adhesive tape from the front panel.
If the tape is present, use the flat end of a spudger to pry the tape up and away, exposing the LCD screw beneath.

Passo 34

Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

Passo 35

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.

Passo 36

A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you'll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath.
Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD.
Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.
Use the tweezers to peel the foam tape up to expose the top of the LCD.

Passo 37

Insert the tip of a spudger between the LCD frame and the tape on the top of the LCD.
Slide the spudger along the space between the LCD frame and tape, separating the tape from the LCD frame.

Passo 38

The LCD is glued to the metal LCD shield plate behind it along the top, left, and right edges. In order to safely loosen this adhesive, you'll be using a guitar pick to shift the LCD a couple of millimeters left and right several times.
Insert a guitar pick into the gap between the LCD and rear case, near the top of the left side of the LCD.
Bend the pick slightly away from the iPad, just enough to spread the gap between the LCD and rear case.

Passo 39

Insert the guitar pick into three more locations down the left side of the LCD and bend it over in each location, to slide the LCD over to the right side of the rear case.

Passo 40

Now switch to the right side of the LCD, and pry with the guitar pick in several places along the side to shift the LCD back to the left.
Repeat this and the previous step a few times, until the LCD is easily moved left and right.

Passo 41

In the next few steps, you'll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate.
Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate. Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.

Passo 42

Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push.
The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD.
If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.

Passo 43

Repeat the previous procedure along the top of the LCD.
Insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD frame and metal backing plate and gently push the spudger in across the top of the device, separating adhesive.

Passo 44

Continue with the left side of the LCD: insert the flat end of the spudger between the LCD and shield plate and insert the spudger as far as it will go.
At this point the LCD should be loosened from the adhesive holding it. If it is not, re-insert the spudger on the right side or top to fully free the LCD.

Passo 45

Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it's free from the adhesive.

Passo 46

Two wide strips of tape connect the LCD to the speakers.
While holding the LCD with one hand, Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap between this tape and the left speaker.
Gently pull the LCD away from the speakers while rotating the spudger outward to separate the tape from the speaker.

Passo 47

Insert the flat end of the spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the LCD tape.
While pulling the LCD away from the speakers, rotate the spudger outward, widening the gap and releasing the tape from the speaker.

Passo 48

Flip the LCD over and rest it on top of the front panel glass.
Do not attempt to remove the LCD from the iPad, as it is still connected by its data cable.

Passo 49

Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:
Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00
Thirteen 1.7 mm Phillips #00
One additional 1.7 mm Phillips #00 on some devices.

At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

sandro - 24/11/14

On my iPad Mini (Gen 1 WiFi; A1432), these are not #00 screws, but #000 screws. They're much tinier than the first four screws that held the LCD tabs in place. The #00 driver sorta works, but requires a lot of force to get traction. The #000 driver works like a charm, though.

volty - 30/03/16

On my 1432 there were mixed in 4 tiny #000 screws holding the shield plate aong the right side. Looks like these can be mixed in without consequence as they are shorter anyway

gfriedman99 - 29/10/16

I have a missing plate and screws

Keah Smith - 07/11/19

Passo 50

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the LCD shield plate from the bottom end of the iPad.
Pry up on the spudger to free the plate from the sides of the rear case.

Passo 51

Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.

theres a lip on the rear case that prevents you from lifting this straight out, be careful to not bend the plate.

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

Once the LCD is clear of the shield, wiggle a long plastic spudger up the center between the shield and the battery to gently bend the shield. That will help in getting it away from the sides and make it easier to come out.

Bill Shannon - 26/01/19

Passo 52

Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.
Be sure to not substitute these three screws with any other screws, specifically the screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad. Any slightly longer screws may strip the screw holes and result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

jessabethany - 10/07/14

Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

Walter Galan - 15/07/14

Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

sandro - 24/11/14

Passo 53

Use a pair of tweezers to grasp and remove the connector shield from the iPad.

Passo 54

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.
Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

Mattis -

I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

Grillwrecka -

Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

Andrew Kivell - 27/03/15

There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

jessabethany - 27/03/15

After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

Michael Vovaris - 08/07/15

Yeah, you need to put the pick in between the connections so the battery doesn't touch the logic board connector and blow a fuse and make your backlight not turn on. You really don't want to have to solder the 2 connections together, especially if you don't know how, like me! I will use your comment's advice when working.

WolfyHD - 20/07/17

I put a piece of cellotape on the contact side of the connector and could happily forget about it while getting on with the rest of the repair.

Rory Filer - 28/12/17

Passo 55

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board.
Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

Michael Vovaris - 17/03/15

Does it shares the same shape/size of the LCD connector between the ipad mini wifi only WHITE and the other one ipad mini 32gb BLACK?

muhammadbukhari10 - 31/12/19

Passo 56

The LCD is still connected to the rest of the iPad by two wide strips of adhesive tape that run up from the inside of the rear case to the front bottom LCD frame.
While holding the LCD with one hand, insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD and tape on the iPad's right side.
Slide the spudger outward, separating the tape, while gently lifting up on the LCD to pull it away from the tape.
It may help to twist the spudger, to spread the gap the rest of the way and separate the LCD from the tape.

Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

Dave Davidson - 20/06/14

When this tape damage, how we can take a new?

Muhammed Kilic - 16/12/17

When this tape are damage, how we can order and take a new one?

Muhammed Kilic - 16/12/17

Following from Nick H’s comment about LCD removal being unnecessary - I tried that first and got my broken glass OUT of the assembly by threading it thru a limited space beneath the LCD. Later when trying to reseat the digitizer connector I gave up and removed the LCD anyhow. Not that much extra work but a LOT easier to install the digitizer and reseat the connector without having to navigate around the LCD and its cable. Removal of the tape holding the LCD was easy - there are two short lengths of rubber or foam along the bottom edge of the LCD that faces the outside world. Remove those(save them) and then _carefully_ peel up the tape; I saw some metallic looking residue underneath. Later when re-assembling everything, I put the tape back and then those two short lengths of foam.

Rory Filer - 28/12/17

on mine this tape was already loose.

jfaulks1 - 17/01/19

Passo 57

While still holding the LCD up with one hand, move on to the iPad's left side and repeat the previous step's procedure to separate the second piece of tape.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and tape, and slide outward while gently lifting up on the LCD.

Passo 58

Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

Passo 59

Be very careful to pry evenly on the digitizer connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won't work.
To minimize stress on the socket, try prying under the short edge of the connector, rather than the long edge which is shown in these images.
Gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Passo 60

Gently pry the digitizer cable board up from the rear case.

Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

Simon -

There is adhesive holding it down, so it may take some time to get it off. It helped me to push with my spudger on the piece with the yellow text instead from the same side.

Jasper Holden - 07/09/19

I put the iOpener under the iPad to weaken the adhesive for this step.

Nathan Lloyd - 06/02/21

Passo 61

Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.

== After step 55 ==

Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

Good Luck!!!!

Mike -

If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

Mike -

might be better to use a vacuum for safety reasons. you really dont want glass shards all over the place

gfriedman99 - 29/10/16

If your case corners are damaged from being dropped, seal across the corners with wide packing tape, then grind them out carefully with a small motor tool. Use a corner piece from the broken screen (adhesive side upwards) as the template. Keep removing aluminium until screen piece above fits snug and flat. Remove all traces of metal filings before reassembly.

Jennifer Fordyce - 16/01/18

Good tip! Most times the corners are damaged.

northstar - 21/11/18

Passo 62

Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.
Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.
Place the heated iOpener on the back of the iPad, along the center. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the battery adhesive.
Move the iOpener to the right of the back of the iPad (the side opposite the rear-facing camera), and let the iOpener sit for another 90 seconds.
If the iOpener cools significantly between sittings, reheat it for another minute.

There are warnings all over the iOpener I have to not put in microwave for longer than 30 seconds. For now that’s what I’m going to do; please clarify iFixit folks!!

Tom Georgelas - 27/11/19

Passo 63

Throughout the following procedure, you'll be sliding thin plastic cards between the battery and rear case of the iPad, to separate the adhesive securing the battery in place. Be careful to keep the cards as flat as possible to avoid bending the battery, which may damage it and cause it to release dangerous chemicals.
Flip the iPad back over and insert a plastic card between the top left battery and the rear case.
If you encounter significant resistance, re-heat the iOpener and repeat the previous step to give the adhesive more time to soften.

I found it helped to lift the battery a little bit with a guitar pick then slide the cards in.

Tom Georgelas - 27/11/19

Passo 64

Press the card in further, breaking as much of the adhesive holding in the battery as you can.

Passo 65

Remove the plastic card and reinsert it underneath the top right corner of the battery.

Passo 66

Again, press the card in further, to break more of the adhesive behind the battery.
Leave this card in place to prevent the adhesive from resetting.

Passo 67

Insert a second plastic card beneath the bottom left corner of the battery.

Passo 68

Slowly push the card in further, breaking more of the adhesive between the battery and the rear case.

Passo 69

Remove the card and reinsert it, beneath the bottom right corner of the battery.

Passo 70

Push the card further underneath the battery.

Passo 71

Grasp both cards and slowly pull the right side of the battery up about two inches from the rear case.
Peel slowly and try to keep the battery as straight as possible.

Passo 72

While lifting the right side of the battery up with one hand, use a plastic card to cut any adhesive still holding the battery down to the rear case.

Passo 73

Lift and remove the battery from the iPad.

Where can I get a battery?

Mike Munn - 19/04/14

Hi as a novice i found this page absolutely BRILLIANT...

there are so many tiny screws and components that i would of buggered something for sure if i didnt have your instructions

can you advise when you reinstall everything does the tapes have to go back on ( most are not sticky now. some seem to have a metallic surface ????

if so what is the name of the tapes and can i get in New Zealand?

or do you sell??

thanks again

BRILLIANT.

Richard New Zealand

Richard Sutton - 01/10/15

Passo 74

Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the front-facing camera cable connector.

Passo 75

The front-facing camera cable connector is secured with pieces of tape that wrap up around the sides of the cable and are fastened to two small metal plates.
Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the lower metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.
Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the front-facing camera cable connector.

Passo 76

Gently pry the second (upper) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.
Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the front-facing camera cable connector.

Passo 77

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the front-facing camera cable's connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Passo 78

Gently fold the front-facing camera cable up and out of the way of the logic board.

Passo 79

Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the headphone jack cable connector.

Passo 80

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the lower metal plate up from the headphone jack cable connector.
Being careful not to break the plate or the tape attached to it, pry it up and fold it away from the headphone jack cable connector.

Passo 81

Pry the second (upper) metal plate up from the front-facing camera cable connector.
Again, carefully pry the plate up and away from the headphone jack cable connector.

Passo 82

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the headphone jack cable's connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
Gently bend the headphone jack cable back, away from the logic board.

Passo 83

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the rear-facing camera cable up from its socket on the logic board.

Passo 84

Use tweezers to peel up and remove the small piece of tape covering the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Passo 85

Use the tip of a spudger to lift up the tab on the button ribbon cable ZIF connector.

Passo 86

Use tweezers to pull the button ribbon cable straight out of its ZIF socket on the logic board.

Passo 87

Gently peel back the wide piece of tape covering the top of the right speaker.

Passo 88

Continue peeling the tape, and remove it from the iPad.

Passo 89

Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two bottom antenna cable connectors from their sockets on the logic board.

Passo 90

Use the tip of a spudger to peel back the small piece of tape covering both antenna cables on the bottom right side of the iPad.
Leave the lower part of the tape stuck to the back of the rear case to aid in reassembly.

Passo 91

With the tip of a spudger, peel up the larger piece of tape covering both antenna cables near the bottom of the rear case.
Do not try to remove this piece of tape; it is wrapped around the top antenna cable.

Passo 92

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the small metal retaining clip off the left antenna cable, then de-route the cable from the clip.

Passo 93

De-route the antenna cable from the corner of the iPad.

Passo 94

Use the tip of a spudger to remove the small piece of tape securing the antenna cable in the bottom right corner of the iPad.

Passo 95

Peel the cable back from the corner of the iPad.

Passo 96

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad.
Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing.

Passo 97

Pull the antenna cable from the slot behind the Lightning connector.

Passo 98

Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover on top of the horizontal screw on the right side of the Lightning connector housing.

Passo 99

Remove the plastic covering from the left side of the Lightning connector housing.

Passo 100

Pull the wide tape toward the top of the iPad, applying constant force to release it from the antenna cable between it and the speaker.
Slide the tip of a spudger through the gap between the wide tape and the antenna cable, breaking the adhesive connecting the two.
Continue pulling the wide tape until it is no longer covering the antenna cable.

Passo 101

Peel back and remove the wide tape from the iPad.

Passo 102

Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna cable tape up from the rear case of the iPad.
Gently pull the antenna cable out of the way as you work along the piece of tape, to keep it from resealing.

Passo 103

Remove the following three screws securing the bottom left antenna to the rear case:
One 1.2 mm Phillips #00 screw.
One 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw.
One 2.5 mm Phillips #00 screw.

Passo 104

Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive securing the lower left antenna to the left speaker.

Passo 105

Remove the antenna from the iPad.

Passo 106

Remove the following screws:
One 2.5 mm Phillips #00
Two 1.1 mm Phillips #00
One 1.2 mm Phillips #00

Passo 107

Use the flat end of a spudger to loosen the foam adhesive holding the antenna to the right speaker.

Passo 108

Remove two 1.4 mm #00 Phillips screws securing the left and right speakers to the rear case.

Passo 109

Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the left speaker and the bottom left side of the rear case.
Pry around the bottom of the speaker, sliding it out from its recess in the rear case.

Passo 110

Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its recess in the rear case.
Remove the left speaker from the iPad.

Passo 111

Use the tip of a spudger to slide the right speaker slightly toward the outside of the iPad.

Passo 112

Insert the tip of a spudger into the gap between the right speaker and the bottom right corner of the case.
Pry the speaker out from its recess in the rear case.

Passo 113

Once enough of the speaker is exposed, grasp it and pull it away from its slot in the rear case.
Remove the right speaker from the iPad.

Passo 114

Remove two 2.8 mm Phillips #00 screws from the base of the Lightning connector.

Passo 115

Reheat the iOpener in the microwave for one minute.
Remember to be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair procedure. Wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener, and never microwave it for more than one minute.
Place the heated iOpener on the left side of the back of the iPad. Let it sit there for 90 seconds to soften the logic board adhesive.

Passo 116

Slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the Lightning port cable, freeing it from the adhesive securing it to the rear case.

Passo 117

Continue to carefully slide the spudger under the Lightning port cable nearest the logic board.
Be sure to work slowly; jerking the spudger may tear the Lightning cable from the logic board.

Passo 118

In the following steps you will be prying under the logic board. Be careful to pry evenly to avoid bending or stressing the logic board. If it is hard to insert the spudger, reheat and reapply the iOpener.
Gently insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the logic board nearest the front-facing camera. Slowly pry to free the corner from adhesive.

Passo 119

Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the center of the logic board. Slowly pry to free the section from adhesive.

Passo 120

Insert the spudger underneath the logic board nearest the Lightning port cable and pry to free the corner.

Passo 121

Insert the spudger further under the logic board and slide along its length to detach the last of the adhesive.

Passo 122

Lift the end of the logic board nearest the front-facing camera to ensure it is free of adhesive.
Again, be careful not to bend or stress the logic board—make certain that you have cleared all of the adhesive with the spudger.

Passo 123

Lift the logic board and Lightning cable assembly up and pull toward the top of the iPad to remove the Lightning connector from its housing.

iPad Mini Wi-Fi Logic Board Replacement

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