iPhone 6s Plus Battery Replacement

Written By: Evan Noronha

Comments: 224

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

Time Required

15 - 45 minutes

Introduction

Use this guide to bring life back to your iPhone 6s Plus with a new battery. If your battery is swollen, take appropriate precautions.

This guide instructs you to detach the front panel assembly; this is intended to prevent damage to the display cables. If you feel comfortable supporting the display carefully while peeling the battery out of the iPhone, you can skip the display removal and go directly to the battery removal steps.

This guide also instructs you to remove the Taptic Engine. This procedure is optional but recommended to assist removing the battery's adhesive.

For optimal performance, after completing this guide, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least two more hours. Then use your iPhone until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

You can also use this guide to replace the battery connector bracket.

Tools

Parts

Step 1

Before disassembling your iPhone, discharge the battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
Remove the two 3.4 mm Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning port.

Make sure you use the correct screw driver tip to remove these screws, which for the iPhone 6s Plus is the P2, otherwise you may strip the tip of the screw making it 10 times harder to remove. If once the screw is lose, it will not come off, use a magnet to remove it.

Miguel Perez - 30/12/17

If I do it by myself, will it damage the water resistant strip?

I know iphone 7 have it ,but I am not sure 6s plus have it.

Ganqian Zhu - 02/01/18

iPhone 6s has an adhesive gasket under the display, similar to the iPhone 7—however, it doesn’t add much in the way of waterproofing since the 6s has non-sealed openings in other parts of the phone. Water resistance on the 6s is primarily internal (seals around the logic board connectors, etc.). It may still be worthwhile to replace the adhesive on the 6s in order to help keep the display firmly seated so it doesn’t move/wobble at all under pressure, but the phone will continue to work fine whether you replace the adhesive or not.

Jeff Suovanen - 08/01/18

Salve nella procedura iniziale di smontaggio display con la ventosa non è menzionato il fatto di scaldare i lati del display per “ammorbidire” la striscia che incolla il display alla scocca.

Non è necessaria la cosa o è consigliabile ?

grazie

Hello, in the initial disassembling procedure with the suction cup, it is not mentioned how to heat the sides of the display to "soften" the strip that glues the display to the body.

Is not the thing necessary or is it advisable?

thank you

Daniele - 17/03/18

You’ve probably received your answer by now but for future enquirers, it does help the process of taking the screen off if heat is applied to the screen. If you have a hair Dryer use that on a low setting to heat the edges of the screen until it’s almost too hot to touch then slip very thin metal spudger around the edge to cut the adhesive. The carefully lift the screen with the help of the spudger and continue with your repair

Cheers Wayne

Wayne Lyell - 01/05/19

How do I know that the Battery has ZERO Charging Cycles on it when it arrives ? Is there a (downside) to Higher Capacity batteries ? It is INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to maintain a “Zero Chinese Products Lifestyle”, so how do I know that I’m not getting a deficient Chinese battery, potentially a refurb. battery ?

integritybuilders - 18/03/18

When your repair is complete, you can use coconutBattery to check your new battery stats and cycle count. (A properly tested battery may already have a charge cycle or two on it.) Avoid higher capacity batteries on iPhones—they’re generally either gimmicks, unsafe, or both. As far as the quality of the part, that comes down to how much you trust your supplier and whether they guarantee the product.

Jeff Suovanen - 19/03/18

So I need to empty the battery to zero percent?

johnpatrickanat - 08/04/19

Below 25%, exactly as stated in the instructions. There’s no benefit to draining it further than that, and in fact you’ll slightly shorten the service life of the battery by draining it all the way to zero. Follow the instructions exactly as written—if you go off-script, you’re a lot more likely to break something.

Jeff Suovanen - 08/04/19

So my screen shattered completely and the screen first had colored lines on tge while right side then it went out completely. If i get an lcd and digitizer replacement I'd that oing to fix it

shellietheleo - 04/07/19

I would initially recommend a well-lit, comfortable area and placing the screws on a white piece of paper with the screw sizes written down (apparently there are magnetic mats, also). Also, I found placing the phone on a paper towel is good so that if a screw is dropped, it will lessen the likelihood of bouncing away.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

Step 2

The next two steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.
For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.
Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.
Slide the arms over either the left or right edge of your iPhone.
Position the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone just above the home button—one on the front, and one on the back.
Squeeze the cups together to apply suction to the desired area.
If you find that the surface of your iPhone is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, you can use tape to create a grippier surface.

I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

fiftysomething - 13/01/18

WORKED PERFECTLY… easy, no harm at all…. thanks a lot

carlos restrepo - 12/09/20

Step 3

Pull the blue handle forwards to lock the arms.
Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.
Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.
Insert an opening pick under the screen when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.
If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, rotate the handle a quarter turn.
Don't crank more than a quarter turn at a time, and wait a few seconds between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.
Skip the next three steps.

Step 4

If you don't have an Anti-Clamp, follow the next three steps to use a suction handle.
Apply mild heat to the lower edge of the iPhone using an iOpener or hair dryer for about a minute.
Heat softens the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

This is important. I’ve serviced a lot of iphones/ipads for my family as a hobby in the past.

The adhesive was so tight, I cracked the screen trying to pull it/pry it off.

I highly suggest heating at least the bottom edge enough to soften the adhesive

garbage911garbage - 29/04/19

I didn’t have an iOpener, nor a heat gun; however I do have a small personal size hand pillow filled with feed corn. Two minutes in the nuke machine got it plenty warm, and smelled like fresh popcorn too.

bradiac - 22/06/19

I would suggest that you are not shy with the hairdryer. A high heat on the bottom of the phone for at least a minute, if not more, if required.

Mark Taberham - 20/02/21

Step 5

Opening the display on the 6s Plus separates a thin strip of adhesive around the perimeter of the display. If you prefer to replace the adhesive, have a set of new adhesive strips ready before you continue. It's possible to complete the repair without replacing the adhesive, and you probably won't notice any difference in functionality.
Apply a suction cup to the lower left corner of the display assembly.
If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

take out screws first!!

Yoav Karmon - 15/04/17

Make sure you use the right screw driver tip for i phone 6s Plus, which is the P-2. If the screw will not come off once is lose, try using a magnet.

Miguel Perez - 30/12/17

My cracked screen prevented the suction cup from sealing. SOLUTION: With a piece of clear packing tape across the screen, the suction cup will seal and pull.

Jim Cowles - 17/01/18

I broke my iphone screen in the first step!

Pierre Bertram - 06/10/19

This screen removal step got more wrestley than I anticipated. The adhesive is quite strong. I used a flat-ended razor tool that I have to begin the prying - I don’t know how I would have got it started without this.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

Ok - just got my battery replacement kit and even got the opening kit for added insurance just in case. Settled down to startwork after carefully cleaning my (immaculate) screen - no scratches or anything, with rubbing alcohol, removing screws and warming with a hair dryer, only to find the suction cup provided in the kit is worse than useless! It won’t stick to the screen well at all. When it does - it pops off at the lightest pull :-( Now what do I do to get this started?!

CoffeeCup -

Step 6

Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.
Pulling too hard may damage the display assembly. Apply just enough pressure to create a small gap between the display assembly and the rear case.

I had a shattered front glass panel so I could not get the suction cup to seal properly. I tried a couple of different ways to get good suction but to no avail. I eventually used a Stanley knife to pry up the corner so I could get the spudger into the opening.

John Architzel - 23/06/17

A really high quality packing tape over the entire screen will usually be enough to use the suction cup on a shattered screen.

djwooten - 11/07/17

I used a suction cup on each side to provide counter traction. I braced the iphone between my knees and pulled apart while my helper inserted the spudger

jkanne - 09/09/17

This was by FAR the most difficult part of this whole thing. I confess the spudger was not cutting it so I used a butter knife to get into the small opening first, then used the spudger to go around the screen.

Julie Sanchez - 27/12/17

Hey everyone, if you never have done this part before be aware there is an extremely strong adhesive around the lip of the screen and once again is extremely strong. I had to get a friend to insert the pry/pick into the small gap while I used one hand to brace the phone down and the other to pull the suction cup without it digging into my hand. Go slow, it took me 5 tries because I didn’t realize how strong the adhesive was.

bartmistrot - 13/01/18

I also had a badly cracked lower screen - that glass was actually threatening to pull off the phone in chunks during this step, even with packing tape. Resorted to @j2arch’s tip and inserted a utility knife vertically into the seam between the display and phone body. Was able to lever the glass enough to get the spudger in there.

Jason Augustyn - 22/01/18

I have replaced sevrel screens for my sister in law and my niece. The packing tape has worked every time and that’s with it Shattered and pieces already falling out. You have to make sure the packing tape goes to the edge of the screen but doesn’t touch the frame. I have the plier like screen remover and use that it is much easier to remove the screen by your self with that tool. I also have the little finger suction cup that comes with the kit here. I bought the plier suction cup tool When I had to replace the screen that had the pieces of the screen missing and I don’t regret spending the extra money for that it has made a world of difference. I do this as a hobby it’s not a job for me. The electric divide repair kit from Lowe’s is also a very good kit to help. If you’re only going to do it once the kit that comes with the package is a great deal from ifixit. Well worth the money to spend the little extra to get the kit if you all ready don’t have the tools.

Brent - 14/03/18

If you try to use the spunger near the home button and try to pry it can crack your screen. This happened to me.

Jeffrey - 22/11/18

Same thing happened to me. This should be a big warning in these steps. If you have a small to moderate crack in you screen, but you weren’t planning on replacing the screen at the same time as another repair inside, there’s a risk of damaging the screen further and making it inoperable.

DW7ACCT -

I found it easiest to use two suction cups. One on the front as directed, and a second one on the back. Give the spudger to your assistant, and have them slip it in place while you pull the display from the case.

gordojenkins - 07/07/19

I gave up with the suction cup as it wasn't working for me with a cracked screen. Having heated the bottom of the phone with a hair dryer with a high heat for a good minute or so, I used a safety scraper (essentially a razor blade in a holder) along the bottom of the phone to separate the screen from the body of the phone. I used the scraper vertically between the bottom of the screen and the phone body and levered it sufficiently so that I could fit the spudger between the screen and the phone body. My experience when I first used the spudger around the frame was that the cracks in the screen caused the screen glass to separate from the frame, so I had to re-do it and ensure that the screen frame was separated from the phone body.

Safety scraper:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Unger-CD170-Win...

Mark Taberham - 20/02/21

Step 7

The safest place to pry from is the notch in the front panel above the headphone jack.
While still maintaining pressure on the suction cup, insert the flat tip of a spudger into the gap, directly above the headphone jack.

This was by far the hardest part of the repair for me. Getting leverage while finding a way to prod with a spudger is a challenge in coordination. I used a second spudger with point holding the phone down by the headphone jack, with the other end of the spudger anchored to my desk.

drpotter - 12/07/17

When warmed, the suction cup was useless. Using the tip of a knife blade, was able to get it separated enough to insert spudger.

hutland - 09/02/20

For me this was the most time consuming task. I used a hair dryer for heating. I found a very tight adhesive. For a moment I thought of abandoning my efforts and take the assembly to a professional repairman. But as they say, patience is a virtue.

After fiddling for about 20 minutes, I achieved a barely noticable opening. So I decided to change the strategy. Instead of applying heat all over the base, I preceeded with small steps with heat concentrated near the opening. I applied intense heat only for about 15 to 20 seconds and immediately working with spudger. It took about an hour to completely open the case. It worked.

Thanks for reading.

- Mr Gamma

Gamma Pailvan -

I also struggled with this step. Lots of heat, 3 different suction cups, I finally could see a small gap... much too thin to fit even a piece of paper into. A video on another site said it was the easy way. I used a sharp craft knife barely into the seam between metal and glass and pried slightly. And it started up. Still a pain freeing the rest of the adhesive. Perhaps the adhesive really sets up over the course of 5 years? I have it hinged open now, so onto the next steps.

Mark Tollefson -

Step 8

Twist the spudger to widen the gap between the front panel and the rear case.

just changed the screen, but due to the tape along side the screen , it is best to heat a little so the glue losses and you can get the screen off better, like indicated

Bart Blanckaert - 13/03/18

Step 9

While firmly pulling up on the suction cup, slide the edge of the spudger under the bottom left corner of the display.

Step 10

Slide the tip of the spudger up the left side of the phone, between the front panel and the rear case.

Step 11

Insert the flat tip of the spudger under the right edge of the display.
Slide the spudger up the right side.

Step 12

Use a plastic opening tool to hold down the rear case while pulling up the suction cup to open the phone.
Do not remove the display completely, or you will damage the data cables connecting the display near the top edge of the iPhone.

Step 13

Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the display.

Remember to apply the screen gasket on the re-assemble. The gasket is provided in the kit but not mentioned here on the instructions.

Won Hong - 07/01/18

There’s a link to the entire gasket replacement procedure in Step 21.

Jeff Suovanen - 08/01/18

Step 14

Gently grasp the display assembly and lift it up to open the phone, using the clips at the top of the front panel as a hinge.
Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.
Don't open the display more than 90º—it is still connected to the top of the phone by the display, digitizer, and front camera cables which can tear easily.
Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.
In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to support the display.

if the display cables are damaged how can you tell ?

Smiley McSmilebot - 22/01/20

In theory, I like the idea of propping up the screen with a rubber band and box/soda can like this, but after ripping the FaceTime camera cable twice, I realize that this method puts too much stress on the cable because it places the screen so far back. Even in this photo, you can see that the cable is taut. I’d recommend just holding the screen with your free hand to put the least amount of stress on that cable as possible.

Ben Estabrook -

Step 15

Remove two Phillips screws securing the battery connector bracket to the logic board, of the following lengths:
One 2.9 mm screw
One 2.3 mm screw
Throughout this guide, keep careful track of your screws so that each one goes back where it came from during reassembly. Installing a screw in the wrong place can cause permanent damage.

FYI - I used some blue painters tape wrapped around a piece of cardboard to hold the screws and brackets in place, in order, so they did not get lost. Some of those screws are MICROSCOPIC so be careful!

I also suggest having very good lighting, even a camping headlight for hands-free well lit work space. You will thank me later :-)

Julie Sanchez - 27/12/17

Use the bit labeled “PH000”.

Joe Teichert - 04/03/18

PH000 bit just wants to free-spin in the 2.3 mm screw. no bite in the head at all. had no difficulty removing the 2.9 mm screw with the same Phillips. had to abandon battery replacement effort.

Benjamin Stalcup - 07/03/18

For this part, neither PH000 or Y000 worked. Technically, it’ll set you back 31$ because you will need the PH00 screwdriver for this part, and the part where you need to open the screen. They have ph00 screwdrivers in every hardware store and even ifixit.com. just know that they put the wrong screwheads for you

Jack Daniel - 18/03/18

Do not lose track of which hole these screws go into. They MUST be put back into the correct hole that they came out of. If not, you will get the dreaded “long screw damage” on the mainboard, and that will be the end of the show.

Just remember where these screws go, and it will be fine.

Harry McDow - 25/04/19

Ended up employing a Philips #0 from a regular jeweler/precision kit on the 2.3mm screw. Bits seem a bit off for this step.

Vance Bell - 17/04/20

Step 16

Remove the battery connector bracket.

Does it matter if the brackets arent put back in the phone? I bought a used phone and brackets are missing. Thanks!

Coupon Crazy - 01/06/18

Auch die Abdeckung ist angeklebt. Also mit etwas Vorsicht und Geduld rangehen.

eckhardd@icloud.com - 17/12/20

If you have forgotten your High School German -

The cover is also glued. So take some care and patience.

Glen Paetz - 31/03/21

My bracket actually has a black wire connected on the underside that is attached to the metal bracket (with screw) below it in the picture. I decided to leave it on and just move it to the side.

Victor Ng-Thow-Hing -

Step 17

Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to disconnect the battery connector by prying it straight up off the logic board.

Step 18

Bend the connector back to ensure it doesn't make contact and power the iPhone on while you're working on it.

When putting the new battery in, make sure to line up the plug and not to the top of the battery… our battery was smaller so the plug would NOT have lined up if we used the top of the battery. ALSO, the plug was NOT 90 degrees so we had to finagle the plug. Also, make sure there is a clear CLICK when you plug in the connector or it may not work. Ours went in but guess didn’t go far enough so we had to take the screen off and push it harder until we heard the “click” then it worked fine.

Won Hong - 07/01/18

Step 19

Remove the following Phillips screws:
Three 1.3 mm screws
One 1.6 mm screw
One 3.0 mm screw
During reassembly, it's critical to place this 3.0 mm screw in the top-right corner of the bracket. Placing it anywhere else may damage the logic board.

I really don't see value in removing screen use box and rubber band keep at 90 degrees.

John Parker - 16/03/17

I leave screen on as well for this. - Tho I prefer a 45 degree lean.

Thor - 22/07/17

I just changed my battery and also left the screen attached. I was lucky enough to get all 3 adhesive battery strips out clean so I didn’t have a struggle with the battery coming out. If I was going to need to get rough with it I was going to take the screen off at that point.

Michael Gross - 03/10/17

To keep track of screws, draw a quick outline of the display cable bracket/cover, with five dots where screws should be. Drop the screws on the corresponding dot. Helps if you use magnet pad.

Christa - 23/06/18

Better yet, print out the pictures from the iFixit website, and use clear tape (“Scotch tape”) to TAPE the screws onto the place in the picture where they belong.

Tom - 28/08/18

Which screwdriver from the kit do I use for which screw?

Shiva Sharma - 14/07/18

I made a mistake and unscrewed the screw just north north west of the one circled in yellow. Of course I lost the screw. Can anyone give me any guidance about this? what does the wire connected to it do? What is the size of the screw, in case I have to replace it?

P.S. This is another reason to consider the possibility of NOT removing the screen just to replace the battery: removing the screen presents a additional possible headache, especially for people like me with bad eyesight who probably shouldn’t be doing this in the first place.

Tom - 28/08/18

It is a 1.4 mm Phillips screw holding the NFC bracket in place.

Larry Lynch -

I didn’t think this was necessary, bit I see it relieves stress on the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector; I did not disconnect the display connector nor remove the display screen.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

I second this finding. I too did not remove the screws nor the bracket. The cables look a bit stretched, but certainly not strained.

-Gamma

Gamma Pailvan -

This step of separating the two parts of the phone deserves careful consideration. In my case, I had propped up the display assembly with a box and rubber bands. However, only 2 of the battery adhesive strips came off easily. The effort to remove the battery with the display assembly attached was not a good move on my part. I jarred the ear speaker cable and after reassembly I had no camera or working ear speaker. Taking off these 5 screws and removing the three cables is not difficult. My suggestion: is you have ANY trouble removing the 3 battery adhesive strips, STOP, separate the two components, and then continue with the battery removal. Don’t struggle removing the battery with the display assembly attached. (I replaced the ear speaker cable, and all is working now)

Richard Perl - 15/02/20

Thanks for this tip! I am having a really hard time removing this plate because one of the screw heads are stripped. So I’ll try removing the battery adhesive strips first to see if I can get the battery out without removing the screen.

nathanfunk - 27/06/20

Use dixie cups and label them for each part you take out. You can stack the dixie cups to keep them in order.

Bradley Nolen - 26/06/20

I skipped this for the battery removal, but when I went to replace the seal, I had to remove it anyway.

dgol69 -

I lost the bottom left screw of the five in this step - anyone know if it’sgoing to cause a problem? ‘m going to go ahead and put thephone back together anyway - wil report back withresult

CoffeeCup -

OMG…. SO excited! It works! Seems that missing screw wasn’t an issue. The reason I’m so excited is, I’m a senior and have bever attempted anything like this before and was worried I’d mess it up, or it just wouuldn’t work for whatever reason. I know I never would have tried if it weren’t for finding this site, the great service, parts to do it and the videos/guides. Thank you so much ifixit. :-)

CoffeeCup -

I changed the battery, without removing the screen, when I closed the phone the front camera and speaker no longer work.

Mr T -

Step 20

Remove the display cable bracket.

Be careful on this step: with my iPhone, one of the connectors (the home button/fingerprint sensor) was stuck to the underside of the bracket and I almost strained its cable.

kevin - 15/02/21

Step 21

Be careful to only pry up on the connector itself and not the socket on the logic board.
Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

FYI, in the video she uses the spudger for this but I think either one will work.

Julie Sanchez - 27/12/17

I found prying from the right to be better

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

Is there any need for this step if only the Battery is replaced

mrrreid - 29/04/20

I don’t recommend using the spudger for this as you can do more damage that way. I scratched the black square thing underneath.

Laura Houghton - 05/08/20

I managed to remove the battery without disconnecting and removing the display first. This avoids possible difficulties in these steps (see below).

One has to be careful that, while fighting with the battery strips, the display remains in its 90º position

alfasw33 - 22/03/21

Step 22

Use a plastic opening tool to disconnect the digitizer cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.
When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage.

Thanks you i fix it

God Hand - 28/10/17

“When reconnecting the digitizer cable, do not press the center of the connector. Press one end of the connector, then press the opposite end. Pressing in the center of the connector can bend the component and cause digitizer damage. “

The following note above was so helpful. I was speeding through the process of getting things back together, since it seemed easy to connect the digitizer cable, but I kept pushing it in the middle and I wouldn’t connect. Until I read through this step and realized it was easier if I would’ve connected one side and then the opposite side right after.

Jeffrey Robinos - 28/09/18

Don’t be too shy when pushing the ends of the digitizer connector back to place. If it does not connect properly, you might face the “half backlight” problem, even if you did not kill any LCD filter. Also check carefully, that you don’t clamp parts of the sticky sealing material placed around the connector inside the connection area.

Norbert Andreas Richartz - 16/11/18

This part was a very frustrating experience for me. I thought that my replacement screen was just poor quality, as it worked when it wanted to work. Pressing home/power repeatedly sometimes brought it back, charging to 100% also brought it back. The actual problem was that it is very easy to get some of the gasket material caught in the connector, which I couldn’t see until I used my jeweler's loupe. I used 91% alcohol to carefully clean all of this off until all pins were shiny, and it took about 6 tries to get it right. However, the screen’s been running well for 2 days now. I already bought another screen replacement which I have for a spare as it was 100% not the problem.

chumblyf - 06/05/20

I followed all the steps, so the sound is missed. What could be happened? thanks a lot. Fabio Balbino

Fabio Balbino - 17/06/20

Step 23

Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step.
Disconnect the home button/fingerprint sensor cable by prying it straight up from its socket on the logic board.

How much is this to replace?

Alistair knight - 18/02/17

And where could I buy from?

Alistair knight - 18/02/17

You can buy these at iFixit: iPhone 6s LCD and Digitizer - Original LCD

drgon - 23/02/17

After finishing the assembly I got the message “Touch ID cannot be enabled on this phone”. I found this connector was loose. Plugged it back in and that fixed it.

Bryan Province - 05/10/17

Thanks for the tip. Same thing happened to me, some leftover adhesive was in the way!

Lua Tech -

Always make sure to disconnect the battery before you do any work on the phone replacing any parts the digitizer or anything. And before you start make sure the phone is turned off you don’t want any power surges. If you also have a static electricity bracelet that also is a plus to use but isn’t a necessity just a nice piece of mind. Some cases you do need to use one so you don’t discharge static electricity to an electrical component and mess it up.

Brent - 14/03/18

Be very careful in this step. I noticed it’s very easy to tear the flex when trying to lift it out of its socket from the right side.

shoeib - 18/03/18

What is the cable and how is it connected/fixed to the motherboard between the bottom socket and the screw hole.

Mine came loose somehow?

Jason Engelsman - 16/07/18

I figured out my own question its the Wi-Fi diversity antenna cable. But how is it connected/secured to the motherboard?

Jason Engelsman - 16/07/18

i pressed on the center of the digitizer connection. and the bottom half of my screen didnt work. i then took that same front panel assembly and tried to install it on another old iphone 6s+ and i had the same issue.

can i still fix it?

what exactly is broken now?

alejandro rueda - 28/01/19

@mynameisoli Honestly this just sounds like a defective screen to me, but it’s hard to say for sure. Look closely at the connector at the end of the ribbon cable and check it for damage. If it’s slightly bent/curved, all the pins won’t make good contact in the socket. You can try bending it back so it lays flat, but you have to be very careful not to damage the connector or contaminate the pins with skin oils, so it’s tricky—and it may be harder to return as “defective” if you mess up the connector. So try this at your own risk. Apart from that, I would just return it and try a different display. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen - 29/01/19

The 6s plus screen repair kit i bought has the wrong size cable here on the replacement part. SOL.

Alex Richardson - 07/03/20

Once I accidentally disconnected the display assembly cables before disconnecting the battery. Now the home button and fingerprint sensor doesn’t work. Any solution to this?? I have tried a different home button, even that doesn’t work.

a3roar - 06/06/20

I changed the battery on my iPhone and put all together again and charged it. When I pressed the home button the lock screen with my picture appeared and when I pressed it again the screen with the digits from 0 to 9 appeared. I was asked to enter my passcode, but when I did that nothing happened, the phone did not open.

What could be wrong? Is the home screen cable not fully connected or what could be the reason for this?

THORDUR JOHANNESSON -

Step 24

Remove the display assembly.
During reassembly, pause here if you wish to replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

For instructions on home button swap out to the new screen you just installed, go here

iPhone 6s Plus Home Button Assembly Replacement

Superior Office Systems - 05/12/17

Do you know whether the adhesive contributes to waterproofing, or just for stability/adhesion?

Christa - 29/01/18

@kitabel The iPhone 6s case isn’t waterproof, so I don’t think adhesive around the display is contributing anything other than stability. The 6s series does have some water resistance, but it’s mostly internal and not something Apple advertises.

Jeff Suovanen - 30/01/18

If you have a replacement adhesive for the display, you may need to install it before reconnecting cables to the components. If the adhesive wraps all the way around the display, it will be impossible to install it once the display is reconnected.

Matthew Olwell - 16/04/19

These instructions worked great for me. Thank you!

Chris Enloe - 21/05/19

Step 25

Remove the following Phillips screws over the Taptic Engine cable bracket:
Two 3.5 mm screws
One 2.7 mm screw

Step 26

Remove the Taptic Engine cable bracket.

Step 27

Disconnect the Taptic Engine's flex cable from the socket on the Lightning Connector flex cable.

Step 28

Remove the following two Phillips screws:
One 3.1 mm screw
One 2.1 mm screw

Step 29

Remove the Taptic Engine.

Step 30

Use tweezers, or your fingers, to peel up the black pull tab on one of the adhesive strips.
Take care not to puncture or bend the battery with your tool—a punctured or bent battery may leak dangerous chemicals or cause a fire.

OK - second most challenging part of the swap. TAKE YOUR TIME! It is hard to pull the strips out without getting them caught on the metal edge parts inside which can tear them, but do them one at a time, pull slow but steady, and as it stretches, grab the tape closer down near the body of the phone. You will not believe how far these things can stretch!

I was successful with getting 2/3 of them out but the one closest to the guts - the first one I tried to hurry - broke off. I got the other two out then needed to use a credit card to get up & under to loosen the battery. Another video I saw showed slightly warming up the back of the phone using a hair dryer set on low which would loosen the adhesive, but I did not do that. I was able to get the battery up far enough to use the tweezers to grab the adhesive and then pull it out.

Julie Sanchez - 27/12/17

Slightly warming up the back of the phone using a iOpener, just before pull the strips, is definitely a good solution for me :)

STEPHAN HERBY - 26/12/20

I agree, pulling one at a time worked for me. I think pulling all at the same time may be faster but pulling one at a time may be safer because you can react to each single strip as it tugs and releases and then tugs again. Just pull slowly and when it tugs (stops releasing) just maintain a slight tension until it releases again. At one point, one started to tear so I eased up and slowly continued with what was left and it eventually released enough so I could continue with the whole strip. Good practice for patience! XD

kevin - 15/02/21

I’m absolutely stuck here. I don’t see the adhesive strips at the bottom of the battery. I only see the flat cable that wraps around the bottom of the battery, which is now separated. I don’t think it was supposed to separate like that.

David Warshowsky - 04/01/18

Because of the Taptic engine assembly, it is almost impossible to pull the adhesives at the optimal, less-than-60-degrees; even when I removed the two-piece assembly, two of the adhesives — middle and the one adjacent to the battery connector — on my wife’s 4-y/o 6s Plus broke.

I would definitely recommend either iFixIt’s “Opening Picks” or “Plastic Cards”; an old driver license (CA) or drive license would work. Just be aware that the edge of the plastic will show some wear and some sharp edges. I was able to loosen about a quarter of the batter from the bottom left, enough to lift (and slightly deform) the old battery to be able to use the tweezers to grab the broken end and pull along the long-edge of the old battery to remove.

Finally, do a check by positioning the battery, with the adhesive film still in place, and make sure the battery connector is lined up with the port on the iPhone: use the spudger to gently crease, if needed, the battery connector “flexible arm” so that the connector lies flat.

Family Juinio - 07/01/20

Not mentioned in main steps, it may be helpful to apply some heat to back of phone (put face down on a table and use a hair dryer. Be sure not to heat too much, just enough so it is still touchable and can be held. My center strip tore and had to slowly work from the side and was finally able to tweezer in to grab last tape strip to remove. Caution as battery punctures could lead to a fire!!

Edward Bannan - 16/01/21

Never could get a finger hold. Why, Because there were two, not three strips and the tabs were way too small to finger-grab. Tweezer-pulling always tore the tabs and adhesive before I could get enough to finger-grab. However, even with a adhesive-shred-tweezer-hold I could wind until there was enough that I could pull with the tweezers.

robert -

Step 31

Pull the strip out slowly and steadily at a low angle. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.
If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers or blunt tweezers, and continue pulling—but don't pry under the battery.
You can optionally wrap the pull-tabs around a spudger to make it easier to pull out the adhesive strip.
Repeat the process for the remaining stretch release adhesive strips.
If the adhesive breaks off underneath the battery and can't be retrieved, continue with the next step.

When I did this, the 5 inch strip stretched to about 3 feet.

Joe Teichert - 04/03/18

I found it easier to pull out one strip at a time. There really isn’t need to pull all three at the same time.

gordojenkins - 07/07/19

Starting from the left, pull the strip to the center strip with tweezers, then punch together with left fingers. Next, pull the right strip with the tweezers to the two already together. Grab all three with left fingers. It is a little difficult, but just do as common sense tells you.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

On an older Iphone 6s+ it is easier to pull each adhesive separate.

coljwm - 24/05/20

Grabbing them separately was also easier for me and always going to the newly appearing material. You will also hear very strange noise…

Kajetan Hinner -

I would absolutely NOT try to pull all three simultaneously. You’re sure to break at least one of them off. Do them one at a time, slowly, and don’t pull acroo the others as you do: just pull straight down.

r torrance andrews -

Step 32

If you're still having trouble removing the battery, apply a few drops of high concentration (90% or higher) isopropyl alcohol under the edge of the battery in the area of the broken adhesive strip(s).
Tilt the phone up so the isopropyl alcohol can flow toward the adhesive strip.
Hold for 1–2 minutes to allow the isopropyl alcohol to weaken the adhesive.
Use an opening pick or the flat end of a spudger to slowly pry up the battery.

Use a set of curved tweasers to pull each strip clear of the bottom left corner of the battery. Then the strips will pull out alongside the battery and the frame almost effortlessly. Do this for each strip and your battery should almost fall out.

Dustin DeShaney - 10/01/17

I found it better to pull one strip at a time

John Parker - 16/03/17

Do them separately or they will probably rip like mine did :(

Christopher Eccles - 07/09/17

Pulling them separately is a good idea especially if it’s your first time. My middle strip tore at the beginning and I had to pry the battery up and then I was able to remove the remaining strip of adhesive. While prying the old battery in an upward angle it did start to bend I believe I achieved a 35 degree angle

Gregory - 05/12/17

Definitely agree one at a time - see my comment above for more detail. Also possible to slightly warm the back of the phone first using hair dryer set on low. This loosens the adhesive if for some reason you break a strip off & have to pry the battery out (CAREFULLY)

Julie Sanchez - 27/12/17

I used a hair dryer to warm the back of the phone, and I still broke two of the three “taffy stickers”. If I did it again, I would keep the back warm with a hair dryer, and gradually pull one piece straight out at a time at as low an angle as possible. Unfortunately, the small backers came off my perimeter adhesive, so as I pulled the taffy stickers out, it stuck to the perimeter adhesive and messed it up. Perhaps remove the battery before applying the new adhesive around the edge of the phone? Everything was going well for me until this step.

Joe Teichert - 04/03/18

Nightmare. All three strips broke. I did get the battery out with a combination of dental floss, a guitar string, and a few cut-down credit cards. But the adhesive is very strong even when warmed, and the outer wrapper of the battery tore during removal. I was afraid of it heating up and sparking, as I have seen other damaged lithium ion batteries do.

Garrett McWilliams - 25/03/18

If your battery is bend, DO NOT TRY TO RE-FLATTEN it again cause my battery were BURNT. luckily i’ve drain the battery beforehand till <28% but next time i’ll drain it until <5% to reduce the energy if it catch fire, i believe if the battery is in full charge it will explode. Dont try to extinguish the battery since it will not until it all the energy is burnt. Just keep it controlled. And REMEMBER TO DRAIN YOUR BATTERY BEFORE DETACH.

osbert intanu - 07/11/18

Pull all three steadily at an angle just above the metal components below the battery. Wrap the strips, in a looping motion, around your finger to take up the slack, similar to winding dental floss - they stretch far, as stated, and circulation in your will be to be cut off - get through it with out too much dilly-dallying.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

I put my phone on a heating pad while extracting the tape. Worked like a charm.

afelton414 - 22/05/21

Pull the strips really slowly. The glue itself will just flow away with constant force, whereas increasing the force will tear the tape. Once you have got to the force where the tape is slowly peeling away, try to keep that force constant as far as possible.

David Routledge - 24/05/21

All three strips broke off for me (this is my 3rd time replacing the battery), even after using an iOpener to apply heat to the bottom of the device. What works for me best is to use a few drops of 90% isopropyl under the battery. I let it soak for about 10-15 seconds, then with a plastic credit card, slide it under the battery until eventually the strips let go.

drpotter -

Step 33

Remove the battery.
If your replacement battery came in a plastic sleeve, remove the sleeve before installation by pulling it away from the the ribbon cable.
If there's any alcohol solution remaining in the phone, carefully wipe it off or allow it to air dry before installing your new battery.
Before you adhere the replacement battery, temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket. This ensures that the battery is properly aligned in its recess.
Adhere the battery, disconnect it, and continue reassembling your device.
If your new battery doesn’t have adhesive preinstalled, refer to this guide to replace the adhesive strips.
Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.

I recommend putting the battery in place BEFORE putting the new adhesive strips to make sure you know for sure that the battery connector lines up with the socket. I ended up with a battery wire that was just a bit too long and I mounted the battery way at top of the pocket (big mistake). Even after moving the battery down, the connector wire was still a little too long, so I had to connect the battery and shove the wire between the battery and logic board as much as I could. Checking the battery beforehand could save some adhesive strips from going to waste.

joetalaga - 19/12/17

Thanks for the tip, joetalaga!

Joe Teichert - 04/03/18

FYI, for anyone in a pinch if the new battery didn’t come with adhesive, you can use Command strips to secure the battery to the housing. Works like a charm!

tnix43 - 15/12/19

I would recommend using a little grease on the tip of the screwdrivers to stick the screws to the driver (even thought they’re magnetic). Commonly, dielectric tune-up grease from automotive stores - it did WONDERS in not fumbling or losing screws.

I also recommend a test-fit of the battery before applying the adhesive strips to be familiar with the needed battery location i.e. where the connector needs to be placed.

Note: the connectors DO snap in place.

Lou Fazio - 30/12/19

Where the heck do you put the replacement strips, how do I know which way to put them. How do I know where to place them?

benjamin kim -

Hi, refer to our iPhone Battery Adhesive Strips Replacement guide for instructions on where to place the adhesive strips.

Kyle Smith -

I can’t believe they left this part out. It’s not in the video either

benjamin kim -

What about Nohon Batteries? it is good, or no?

Jonathan Camargo -

“temporarily reconnect the battery connector to the logic board socket” This is key!

r torrance andrews -

can i use wd40 spray instead of isopropyl alcohol to soften the gasket under the old battery

noel santos -

Conclusion

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Author

Evan Noronha

Member since: 06/02/15

220124 Reputation

89 comments

Most common on IPhone 6s/6 repair jobs is this battery replacement. Great tutorial!

Raymond Amansec - 16/08/16

so few comments on this one?!

has any/many done this without the adhesive strips.. and was it ok?

sarah - 08/11/16

If you mean the battery adhesive strips, sure—you can put a piece of double-sided tape down the back of the battery, and it probably won't move anywhere. There's not much room for the battery to move anyway. Use the adhesive strips if you want to do it right—but, if you're in a bind and you just need the phone working, you can skip the strips. And you can always open the phone back up and add the adhesive strips later.

If you mean the adhesive gasket around the display, the answer is pretty much the same—It's better to have it, but it doesn't hurt anything to put the phone back together without it.

Jeff Suovanen - 09/11/16

by far the easiest repair I've done. only 3 screws! really dont think the cables need to be disconneted. i just used a shoe lace to gently hold up the screen. sticky strips came out fine. happy. thanks.

sarah - 20/11/16

Where can one buy the adhesive gasket for the case

Sandeep singh - 06/01/17

I know almost a year later to reply, but if you buy the battery kit, the adhesive gasket for the display comes with it—along with a pentalobe screw liberation kit.

joetalaga - 19/12/17

Right here: iPhone 6s Plus Display Assembly Adhesive

Evan Noronha - 21/12/17

The iFixit store has them

william.r.crowley - 18/02/19

how deep is that sand lol , you can get everything here if they don’t have it google it or you don’t need it

luciferbritsun696 - 24/01/21

Wow, now I’m feeling a bit dumb and a lot frustrated. I bought the kit, replaced the battery, put everything back together, and it works! But I couldn’t figure out the purpose of the clear blue sheet included with the kit.

Now I know, but I’m not taking the phone apart again to install it.

What wasn’t this covered in the video or in the step-by-step instructions?

Darryl Howard - 03/04/21

Is the battery OEM apple one

Sandeep singh - 06/01/17

The battery from the iFixit battery kit is not OEM, but it is tested and guaranteed with a one-year warranty.

joetalaga - 19/12/17

i want to aperfect technecian give me your advise

dawit ican✔ - 14/01/17

Where can I buy de adhesive that is around the display? Can I use B7000 glue?

Ezequiel Braunstein - 23/05/17

We sell the adhesive in our store! iPhone 6s Plus Display Assembly Adhesive

Evan Noronha - 21/12/17

Reassembly of the display to the chassis was a terrible ordeal until I realized that the front-facing camera connector and sensor cable connector cables had changed position in the 3-cable stack. This is possible--try it yourself:

Follow the two disconnected cables back to the display.

Swap them by tucking the smaller connector cable UNDER the bigger connector cable. You can do it because the angle that they exit the display lets them lie either way, on top of the other or under it.

You'll know immediately when trying to re-attach the connectors because the big connector needs to be the second (middle) one. Otherwise the cables can be hooked up with a lot of fiddle but they won't fold to fit under the cover..

Ned Bedinger - 28/06/17

The battery adhesive -- my case used to get hot until i changed the batt. Two-sided tape (like carpet tape) might not let heat shed betweenor or through the strips. Using two-side non-specifc tape in wide stripsfrom a roll? It makes me wonder about heat-managing properties of official batt tape.

Ned Bedinger - 28/06/17

The old battery blew up on me while replacing, because the battery adhesive strips tore. I didn't have a plastic card to unstick the battery, so I had to bend it. That's why it blew up, so be careful guys, because I absolutely didn't expect that. There was lots of smoke and I burned myself a little bit.

I thought my phone will die after that, but I connected new battery and everything works fine.

Roman Visente - 28/06/17

may i change 6s plus battery with 6 plus?

Charles Cho - 01/07/17

Wow! That was awesome. It's amazing how easy things can be when they are designed to be replaced! One note though, when I was draining my new battery, at below 10% it would not play sound. I could not play music, or hear phone calls, I could however be heard. After having opened my phone so recently I was worried a connection had come loose or been missed entirely. Once charged to 100% everything behaved as expected. I am not sure if that is normal or not. I could totally understand restricting power use at those levels, but does it? I didn't "enter power save" not knowingly at least.

Michael Cornforth - 27/07/17

Very straight forward instructions. Easy to follow; video helped as well. Took me about 1 hour to complete. Phone is charging now. Looking forward to see how the new battery performs. Thanks very much for this site and to all contributors! I like fixing things myself. 11/19/17.

Patrick Dunlap - 19/11/17

I don’t get why you need to take the screen off really.

AmMahabir - 05/12/17

This guide is make from an iPhone 6s total tear down

Mandy - 21/12/17

yes, you are right. Just take care and not damage display cables etc. while fighting with the adhesive stripes

alfasw33 - 22/03/21

I've done this twice and each time I can't get the old adhesive to come off cleanly. I had to use an iopener each time. Just be careful and not bend your battery. It will get hot and smoke if you bend it a lot. Other than that, real easy to replace.

chuongho - 09/12/17

Just got done with my first iPhone battery replacement. Took me about an hour. I think the hardest part for me was getting the screen popped open enough to get the spudger in there. I ended up using an iOpener to warm the adhesive a little and it was a little easier to open enough to get the spudger in there. I also used the plastic scalpel tool from the Pro TechToolkit to cut the adhesive loose before shoving the spudger in there.

joetalaga - 19/12/17

Hi,

I followed this tuto and I successfully changed the battery on my iPhone 6 S Plus without any difficulty. But, after then change, touchId feature does not work anymore. Main button is working fine, only touchId feature is faulty: I have a message saying that touchId feature will not be available on the phone.

I wonder if the fact that I disconnected the touchId connector (part of the 3 screen connectors), and reconnected it at the end, may act as the screen itself was changed. Some messages on forums tell that in this case, the iPhone refuses to reactivate touchId feature.

If someone can help it would be great.

Thxs,

Jean-Claude Ribiere - 28/12/17

This was my first ever DIY replacement from iFixit. This guide was absolutely on spot and it was so easy for me to replace the battery. Thanks.

Anubhav - 02/01/18

Don’t be as stupid as me and follow the guide at the step 23. It’s really difficult to pull all the tabs together, better try it to pull out a single one and then go on with the next one.

Everything else worked like the guide said.

Elias Bürgisser - 03/01/18

The same here as Jean-Claude Ribiere experienced. My iPhone 6s plus refuses to activate touch-id after successful battery replacement. Main button works fine. I have found no help on any forums for this issue and would like post a warning for this repair guide.

Kalle Punsvik - 04/01/18

Was the battery the only component you replaced? if so, it’s likely you damaged one of the cables during the process.

These phones are very delicate and it is easy to cause unseen damage if you’re not careful.

Jonathan Reynolds - 31/05/18

In general the instructions were clear. Only thing missing is the gasket instructions as it is included in the kit but not in the instructions.

Won Hong - 07/01/18

Yes, and gasket instructions are needed. I tried to install the gasket and could not get it to seat properly and gave up. You only get one try and then it is ruined.

richlove - 08/01/18

The instructions are linked in Step 21 of the guide.

Jeff Suovanen - 16/01/18

There should be large red bold letters in this procedure telling you to make sure the battery is not connected when re-connecting the display cables.

I blew the backlight circuit on the motherboard.

I had the battery connected when plugging in the display cables.

Power was not on so it did not occur to me that it would be a problem.

Expensive mistake.

The problem that lures you into this trap is that you need to position the battery to align with the battery connector when re-installing the battery.

To make sure it is aligned properly, the natural thing to do is to plug in the battery connector.

But then you can forget that the battery is connected when you re-attach the display cables.

If I were to do this procedure again, I would not even disconnect the display at all. It is not necessary when replacing the battery.

richlove - 08/01/18

Same thing happened to me. display now dead. had it done at the local gadget /phone repair store but they couldn’t fix it.

Were you able to fix yours?

Philip Storey - 11/01/18

Backlight-Connector killed

https://www.idoc.eu/2017/05/18/iphone-6s...

Micha - 13/01/18

Anybody have a solution to the front facing camera assembly not working? Changed out my buddies battery and now the front camera and ear speaker don't work.

Wade - 26/01/18

My iPhone 6s+ was stuck in a restart loop. I tried EVERYTHING! Did you try… YES! I tried it. The Apple store near me didn’t have an appointment available for 6 days. I recently had them replace the battery since they admitted to screwing everyone’s phone up and it had been randomly restarting at all different times. This morning I tried to do an iTunes factory reset and still just rebooted when done. I followed these steps up to #20. Then I reassembled (losing the 30mm screw for the logic board) and fired it up. She was a little groggy at first but runs great now!

tseantownsend - 05/03/18

Mine doesn’t switch on at all - will they still help me with my iPhone even if I tried to fix it myself?

Because I know they like to do things like that haha

Klaud Kveda - 10/03/18

I done this with mine but could not get strips out so just forced the battery out - without disconnecting LCD and then the phone would not switch on, so I gave up with it.

Since then I tried to do it again and just checked the connections with the battery and seems to of turned on so I was happy and put it on charge only for it to turn off again after around 5 mins and it wont switch back on now.

Let me know if there is anything I could do to fix this.

Klaud Kveda - 10/03/18

I could not believe it. I DID. This guide was helpful including some comments. Thank you!

Alberto Vega - 13/03/18

I accidentally used the tweezer in step 14 after removing the battery connector bracket and I saw some sparks. Did it fry my batter connector?

Kim Leabres - 15/04/18

Not sure why I had to take the front off completely [iPhone 6s plus]. Also, replacing the adhesive strips was a disaster as mine looked nothing like what was in the photos. Scotch double sided to the rescue. Hope it doesn’t melt or something [fist bump myself explosion emoji]

Tom Lynham - 19/04/18

this is ridiculous, just use your brain and make a phone w an ejectable battery… a duh.

HEMP IS NOT POT - 05/05/18

battery addhensive is too sticky. would be nice to add iopener in the toolkit. i tried to force the battery out without heat it. battery caught fire. luckily the phone still works after clean the mess. i would suggest to get an iopener if you want to replace battery.

yuan wei - 07/05/18

Hello! Is to possible to change the battery while the screen is broken? I dont want to change the screen just the battery! :)

Otto linden - 15/09/18

@otto_linden Totally possible, although getting a broken screen off can be troublesome. If it’s badly broken, the stress of removing it can make it worse, so it may go back together “more broken” than when you started. All other things being equal, I’d probably suggest waiting until you can do both at once. But, your call! Good luck.

Jeff Suovanen - 17/09/18

just did my new battery tonight and found the front display connectors really hard to remove.

Put everything back but now my ear speaker isnt working.

Tried hard reset and removing all tabs and replacing but it’s still not working :(

Everything else works fine. So disappointed will now have to go to apple for a more expensive repair than a simple battery :(

John Sherrit - 20/09/18

Just wanted to add that when I added the new battery the phone got exteremely hot so I have removed the “new” battery and put the old one back in and temps are normal again,

Good to see there is a one year warranty as this battery is going back.

John Sherrit - 20/09/18

Hi John! Our Support team is here to assist if you’d like to inquire about your warranty. Please feel free to reach out via help.ifixit.com and they’ll look into this trouble with you.

Kadan Sharpe - 04/10/18

My iPhone 6s Plus battery was dead after 2 and a half year. Thanks to this very good tutorial and the replacement kit including the new battery and tooling kit. My iPhone’s life is hopefully extended by another 2 years at least.

yannick Lamp - 04/12/18

This Guide WAS VERY AWESOME!!! First time replacing iPhone Battery

mfigeroux - 12/01/19

I don’t know about everyone else, but this fix was a pain process. The screws are so small you need an electron scanning microscope to see them. Then the magnetized screwdriver heads are great, but then when putting screws back in, it is really tough.

Sandwah - 21/01/19

非常感谢！我最近正在准备协助我的朋友更换她的老旧电池，这篇文章真的太棒了！是及时雨~

Liu bing - 19/02/19

我觉得，现在的手机之类的电子产品内部是非常精密的，这可能需要我在修理时准备好一盏工作台灯协助我的拆机工作，否则，我担心拆机的环境光照是否足够~

Liu bing - 19/02/19

Good Job! Easy To follow instructions. Thank.

Leo Lambert Jr - 22/02/19

We missed the window for Apple’s battery replacement so I finally bought a replacement here. Great tutorial. Easy to follow steps (wow, those screws are small!) All replaced and reassembled with no parts left over. :)

Michael - 11/03/19

My earpiece speaker no longer works after the battery replacement, any suggestions

Tyler Martin - 24/05/19

Both cameras stopped working as well

Tyler Martin - 24/05/19

I had similar issues on other iPhone models and it was always caused by the associated cable not plugged in correctly. Either that or the said cable might have been previously damaged because those iPhone cables really are fragile.

Daniel Lafargue - 24/06/19

CAn you use I6 plus battery with I6s plus phone vise versa?

yany - 19/07/19

I would say, make it clear in the guide at the beginning that it is not necessary to remove the screen assembly (to replace the battery.)

A soup can and two rubber bands with a piece of cloth to protect the screen work splendidly for holding the screen at a 90 degree angle.

Unless you have to do something specifically to the display, I think with those additional miniature screws of different sizes and tiny connectors you’re just increasing your chances of failure if all you’re doing is replacing the battery.

Great guide though, very helpful. Thank you!

Timothy Lee Russell - 17/09/19

I just completed the replacement of the battery in my 6s plus. I took my time which wound being 4 hours of work but I was through and meticulous. Overall a great success. I was going to get a new 11 pro but they failed to put a 5G antenna in this model which was a deal breaker for me so I had to extend the life of my 6s for at least another year. Thank you iFixit for everything.

COLOSSUS206 - 11/10/19

hola buenas tardes un cordial saludo yo quiero aprender necesito comprar el material completo una pregunta disculpe donde se encuentra esta tienda en el estado de california estados unidos quiero información de los precios y herramientas porf tengo diplomado en esto pero igual me quiero animar ah practicar ustedes me alientan ah seguir este oficio gracias por su apoyo yo vivo en estados unido ahy mucha demanda en MEXICO y USA gracias ah ustedes zabely.v619@hotmail.com

sanjuanherrerazabelyvirginia - 08/02/20

Not super hard but when I replaced my battery I must have tugged on the 3 cables connecting the display to the back. After installing the new battery and putting it all back together my earpiece speaker and front camera wouldn’t work. I opened it up and all the cables looked fine. No tears no nothing. I ordered a new cable assembly for the earpiece, front camera and when removing the old cable assembly the proximity sensor had detached from the cable and was stuck in the display. Replaced the cable and it works great now. Be very careful with those cables.

icecoldtony - 04/03/20

Hello can i change the battery and the back camera of my IPhone 6s Forbthe battery and the camera of the iPhone 6s Plus?

Carlos B - 26/03/20

After a battery replacement, which went very smoothly, the touch screen doesn’t respond. The battery is fine. The home button is fine. The display is fine. Boot up is fine. But touching or pressing the screen does not register at all. I have repeated the steps to disconnect and reconnect the digitizer cable 6 times. No joy. The connector appears fine, no bending. It clicks into place on one end then the other end.

What should I try next?

Jay Cummings - 12/05/20

Thanks for sharing this. I did need a hair dryer to help to loss the sticky tape that applied to the bottom edge of the screen of iPhone 6s Plus. Only plug using the sucking tool does not always work. Do it with cautious before you break your screen.

hudengke - 04/06/20

One of the screws below the home button on the side of the phone won’t catch.

Peyton Davis - 06/07/20

Thanks! Another electronic device SAVED from the scrap heap! iPhone 6S Plus battery replaced and no more half day dead batteries!

Daniel Sutczak - 28/07/20

Sadly after I did the battery installed, Now when I open the camera app the screen is black. I can’t take photos, switch from rear to front camera. When I call someone I can’t hear them in my ear I have to use the speaker phone. I wonder what happen :(

Michael Bellamy - 19/09/20

Very illustrative write up.Though I haven’t done,It looked very easy.

manjula.s Seetharaman - 07/11/20

Be very careful when you use a Metallic tweezer to remove the tape trip on the battery .My battery exploded

Ansel king - 16/11/20

I had issues in the end while trying to let the display snap in completely into in the frame. On the left side everything was fine, but on the right side I found a small bracket had become loose and blocked the counterpart of the display: one of the small rectangular hooks that should snap in that bracket. I fixed the bracket in the correct position with a micro piece of the old adhesive stripe while mounting the display.

alfasw33 - 22/03/21

do you have to buy the Battery Connector Bracket does it still work with the old one?

Alexander Chen -

The pold one should work fine

Daniele Carminati -

OK…

Just did the battery replacement.

It went better than I expected. I did not remove the display cables or disconnect the display - I did tape it into place in an upright position, and was careful. In a previous battery swap (years ago) I did tear my camera cable and had to replace it, not being careful enough. I’m realizing that what’s really needed here would be a 3D-printed jig that would firmly hold the display up at an angle and take all the stress off the cables - with that sort of arrangement I imagine that things would go well.

The OEM battery was so gone that when I destroyed it (bend, fold, mutilate) it didn’t make a peep. Had it been in better shape I would have used more care to avoid a kaboom/flame event. The center adhesive strip didn’t come out (much) which is why I had to lean on it (too impatient to heat that up to remove it.

Since it was stone dead prior, nice to see it come up after - wasn’t sure the bad battery hadn’t taken the phone with it. At any rate, all good!

hancocks -

IFIXIT is a lifesaver. I’m not quite ready to give up my iphone 6S+ just yet. This time I ordered the battery replacement kit. I followed the video, paused where needed and got through it with no problem. Previously I’ve ordered and replaced the rear camera and on my iMac I replaced my hard drive. The videos are clear and concise. I prefer them to the step by step method, however do refer to them as well.

Walter Maroney -

What about Nohon batteries, it is good, or no?

Jonathan Camargo -

There is some black sticky material on a piece o f blue plastic. I assume that it is new gasketing material to replace what came off when I opened the phone. Unfortunately I have no idea how to apply it, as it doesn’t seem to fit in the open phone either way.

Leon Sebek -

Great little guide! I’ve just had to replace the second battery on my 6S Plus, and because the aftermarket sticky strips that secure the battery to the case where less sticky (not from iFixit), it was possible to skip steps 17-27 (but perhaps not advised) turned into a 5 mins job all in as opposed to nearly 40mins because the original battery sticky strips are a really pain! Regarding the perimeter tape gaskit that seals the screen to the back, it is possible to reuse the original but it is likely to part lifted / broken. So I’d say that dust protection is compromised, that said, I still found the orginal gaskit adequate even after two battery replacements . GearDo via aution site in the UK offered the gasket as a separate item, but I’ll save it for my 3rd battery - haha!

Alec -

I usually mess up anything I’m doing but this worked perfectly. Thanks!

Daniel Daponde -

Some key omissions

1. if the battery is stuck, the adhesive strips probably broke. do NOT pry battery from top (the opposite side of the home button). There are components that can be damaged.

2. my replacement batterysaid “first drain old battery to 20% ”., to reduce risk of fire/explosion. If thats right, it should be up front in video.

3. When prepping the new battery adhesive, (probably my error, but easy to do) a little bit of the adhesive remained on the top of the battery (the part facing the display"). The display back has a thin film material, which got stuck to the exposed adhesive. When I took the cover back off to reseat it, this film tore due to being stuck to adhesive.

4. The video says reverse the steps for replacement. Its a bit tricky to align the 3 data cables for reseating. Any tips might be helpful

Probably due to my errors in steps 1 & 3, my iphone no longer powers up, even though I watched the video twice before starting. So be careful !

bill goldberg -

The procedure is well described with a couple of exceptions:

- the proper steps to use the adhesive kit(for the screen, not the batteries)

- more information about times to charge the replacement batteries.

In my repair, the adhesive kit came without any orientation indications, so after watching a few YT videos, it was managed.

After repair the phone was dead in appearance. In fact the battery was fully depleted and it took several hours to start showing charge.

Etienne -

the iphone 6s plus i got was just showing the apple logo but not turning on so i replaced the battery but it did not work. that really sucks i was hoping so much to get it done but thank you for your help

bradley wilson -

Replaced the battery in an iPhone 6s. I didn't disconnect the screen, but instead connected it to a bent metal bracket using a rubber band. This meant I needed to cut the adhesive strip to get it behind the screen connector cables.

One adhesive strip holding the battery tore as I pulled it. I was too impatient. Slow is good here. I gently pried the battery Just until I could use tweezers to grip the end of the adhesive strip again. Pulled it out from the side which worked VERY well as a second option.

Did all screw removal and replacement over the pasteboard tray provided. Laid out screws with their cover in the correct placement.

Finally, made sure that I reversed every screw till I heard a click before I started screwing them in. This prevented cross threading.

Good instructions and a fun project if you take your time. Don't forget to roll up your sleeves so you don't brush tiny parts to the floor.

Charlie Mack -

Thanks much for this guide and the replacement kit. Success the first time and my phone works like new. It took about two hours, over half of which was needed to remove the pesky old adhesive gasket and install the new one. I have recommended your site to my friends for similar repairs.

Ray -

You can skip a Tactic Engine step.

Not clear how to use Display Assembly Adhesive.

Everything else - perfect.

Thank you.

Oleg Voropayev -