Apertura gruppo copertura inferiore MacBook Retina 2015

Passo 1

Prima di iniziare, stacca dalla corrente e spegni il tuo MacBook. Chiudi lo schermo e giralo a testa in giù.
Svita le seguenti otto viti che tengono ferma la copertura inferiore:
Due viti Pentalobe P5 da 1,8 mm
Quattro viti Pentalobe P5 da 2,9 mm
Due viti Pentalobe P5 da 6,1 mm
Ricordati la posizione delle viti mentre le rimuovi: devono essere riavvitate ad un leggero angolo.
Durante la riparazione, tieni traccia di ogni vite e assicurati di riavvitarle nella posizione originale per evitare di danneggiare il tuo dispositivo.

If, like me, you didn’t have a P5 Pentalope screwdriver but did have one that fits an iPhone.

You can sand down the tip until it’s the right size.

Stuart - 13/04/20

Thank you Stuart! I would never have thought of this and it worked perfectly.

R McP -

Hello,

where do I plug the USB-C to USB-A cable on MacBook MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015)

I can’t any port suitable for USB-c !??

sissi - 05/03/21

My MacBook had P4 pentalobe screws, notP5

Greg Lavardera -

Big thanks to Jeff for such thorough and detailed instructions. This is definitely a more advanced repair so if you're not comfortable with making such repairs, like having experience working on iPhones, computers, etc., you might think twice before attempting. It's very helpful to read all the instructions thoroughly before starting. Plan on 3 to 4 hours—the battery removal along with its adhesive is a real $@$*-show, but totally doable if you followed Jeff's recommendations.

I'll post a few tips in the comments on each step that I think is worth noting but I will mention here one of the trickier steps. ZIF connectors on the flat cables can be a little tricky, especially if you have never done these. Before attempting to do the first one (step 8) review the others in steps 16, 20, and 25. You'll get a better sense of how these little retaining flaps flip up and what they actually look like when you study each photo in each step—they are very tiny and fragile.

Steven Gibson -

Just finished replacing the battery. I followed the directions that came with the battery instead of this guide. In short, Steps 15 to 35 are not necessary. You don't have to completely disassemble the laptop to replace the battery.

Andrew Mohan -

Thanks. I skipped it too and it worked.. It was a painstaking to remove the two side batteries as the cables were connected. But a little patience gets the job done. I did however remove the audio jack connector but from the audio board. Removed the display connector and the usb-c bracket to get the bottom case free.

Paras Tolani -

READ EVERY STEP, AND EVERY COMMENT FOR THAT STEP BEFORE ATTEMPTING! Go slow. Think first. Be organized. No probs.

David Nagle -

Passo 2

Infila le dita tra la copertura inferiore e quella superiore, iniziando dal retro del MacBook, tra le cerniere.
Solleva solo leggermente la copertura inferiore per evitare di danneggiare i cavi che collegano la copertura inferiore a quella superiore.
Tenendo una presa salda, solleva costantemente la copertura inferiore finché non si separa leggermente da quella superiore.
Potresti sentire molta resistenza mentre sollevi la copertura inferiore. Se necessario, infila un plettro o un altro strumento per fare leva anti ESD lungo i lati della copertura inferiore per rilasciare i due ganci di bloccaggio nascosti.
Durante il rimontaggio, per riagganciare i ganci, premi con decisione vicino a entrambi i lati della copertura inferiore (vicino a dove è infilato il plettro nella terza immagine) Finché non senti i ganci scattare in posizione.

Passo 3

Mentre tieni ferma la copertura inferiore, gira attentamente il MacBook in modo che il logo Apple sia rivolto verso l'alto.

Passo 4

Solleva insieme la copertura superiore e lo schermo dal bordo anteriore ad un angolo di circa 45°.
Potrebbe essere utile bloccare il MacBook in questa posizione per il prossimo passaggio.

This step at the suggested height tears the ribbon cable. do step 7 first. carefully

Kiernan - 04/03/19

If you carefully open the display all the way and then lift the upper case, you can let the display rest on your flat working surface. The upper case will be held in place at an appropriate angle by the display hinge.

Mike C -

It's a two-spooger-job.

LMAOOOOOOOO

Elixir2 -

Passo 5

Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per tenere premuto il tasto dorato " battery disconnect".
Se il LED di alimentazione è acceso, continua a tenere premuto il tasto finché il LED si spegne, quindi rilascialo. Questo può richiedere fino a 10 secondi.
Se il LED non si accende, rilascia il tasto dopo 5-10 secondi. Premilo ancora per 5-10 secondi, quindi rilascialo. Infine, premilo ancora per 5-10 secondi e rilascialo.
Questo passaggio garantisce che il MacBook sia completamente spento e sicuro per lavorarci.

Wow okay could someone explain why this is necessary? What happens if you skip this step and simply undo the screw to disconnect the power?

EB Computers - 20/12/20

Removing the screw does not disconnect the power—power comes from the battery terminals contacting the underside of the logic board, and they’re tricky to separate reliably at this stage of disassembly. This step is the safest and easiest way to kill power; don’t skip it.

Jeff Suovanen - 21/12/20

What if I can’t get my LED to power on when reassembling the machine?

greg2b - 18/01/21

Update: Realized my USB-C connector (Step 14) wasn’t properly seated.

greg2b - 25/01/21

Hi what will happen if i skip this step, coz i did tried to power down the battery by pressing small gold button, but no avail. the LED light still there even after more than 5 times press (5-10secs or more) each press.

Dimitri Zaborski -

Did you learn the answer to your question? I'm having the same issue -- I keep pressing the gold button but the battery light stays on.

R McP -

Mi laptop doesn’t turn it on doing that ):

alexisaguinagam26 -

Passo 6

Chiudi il MacBook e giralo attentamente a testa in giù.

Passo 7

Solleva il bordo anteriore della copertura inferiore ad un angolo di circa 45°.
Stai attento a non danneggiare i cavi a nastro che ancora collegano la copertura inferiore al MacBook.

Before the IPD flex cable can be removed the battery disconnect button has be held down for up to 10 seconds. If the LED near the battery connector is switched on it shows that there is power going through the logic board from the battery, once the button is pressed and this light goes off the machine is safe to be worked on.

Aaron Dalziel - 12/04/18

Passo 8

Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere il nastro nero che copre il connettore ZIF del cavo del trackpad.

Only peel back the first half of the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector—do not completely remove.

Steven Gibson -

Gently - lift tape while wiggling cable side to side. Be sure tape is released, but do not remove completely

David Nagle -

Passo 9

Usa uno spudger per ruotare attentamente verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo del trackpad.

This is very tricky indeed - at least on my computer. I failed at this point - having skipped to it as sugested above so as not to stress the ribbons on the other side. The ZIF was not as I expected. They had opened when I pulled up the stick cover and I found I was working on the socket itself. The top edge came adrift after almost no pressure being put on it. The ribon did not come free with gentle pulling though. At that point I put the back on again… waited until the battery recharged a bit and found I had not nroken it after all. I doubt I shall try again. It is much harder to replace than the 15 inch - much…

Simon Anthony - 21/11/19

I’ve just found that I have broken it after all. No keyboard. Bluetooth still works so I can use the machine.

All in all, an expensive mistake. BTW - I did NOT get the kit from IFIXIT - not sold here.

Simon Anthony - 21/11/19

I found “Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors”

Riconoscimento e scollegamento dei connettori dei cavi

useful, esp. for someone who has not used ZIF connectors and retaining flaps before. There are several retaining flaps that need to be opened. The first time is tricky as you need a sense of how much force to apply. I used the flat end of the provided spudger. Apply progressively firmer upward pressure until the retaining flap pops open. The first time is tricky, but straightforward thereafter.

Ki Park - 31/12/20

Mouse back and forth between the two right-side thumbnail photos and you will get a little animation feel showing how these ZIF connectors operate—it's very helpful. Apply light but consistent pressure to pop them up. Helps to go side to side if they're a little stubborn.

Steven Gibson -

this is a great tip Steve!

Eric -

Passo 10

Scollega il cavo a nastro del trackpad dal trackpad stesso tirandolo delicatamente attraverso la sua fessura nella cornice.

it would be nice to have a specific picture of the cable and contacts and how it is oriented in the ZIF connector. This isn't clear in any of these photos or text.

My trackpad cable snapped so had to replace it and none of the replacement cables have the tape which is on the smaller end to the trackpad. The other end is fairly easy to figure out but the trackpad end isn't as the cable makes a 180 degree turn inside the case (poor design).

Marc -

Passo 11

Ruota attentamente il MacBook in modo che la copertura inferiore sia appoggiata al piano.
Ruota la copertura superiore/gruppo dello schermo ad un angolo di circa 90° e appoggialo contro qualcosa di robusto in modo da non doverlo tenere.
Aggiungi un pezzo di nastro adesivo vicino al trackpad per fissarlo alla copertura superiore ed evitare dei movimenti accidentali.
È possibile aprire il MacBook del tutto e appoggiare entrambe le parti sul piano di lavoro, ma questo potrebbe danneggiare i cavi a nastro e non è raccomandato.

You can open the laptop screen all the way open with it flat in the table (screen facing up) and the keyboard should stay up.

xavierviveros - 20/04/20

Passo 12

Svita la vite Torx T5 da 2,9 mm che fissa il connettore della batteria alla scheda madre.
I modelli del 2015 hanno un gancio di messa a terra argento con due pad in schiuma sotto questa vite, che può cadere. Assicurati di reinstallarla durante il rimontaggio.

the moment you opening macbook case and before any tinkering with connections, you MUST press little yellow button on logicboard, located on the right from battery connector - this will disable all power to the board. You can check by looking at the small led on left side of the battery connector - if there is very faint light, it means that power is still there. After pressing button light should go off. Removing screw is not necessary at all, and like I said - you MUST disable power before any touching to connections etc.

DigiHead - 25/02/18

Where it says

“2015 models have a silver grounding clip with two foam pads directly under this screw“

I have a 2015 MacBook & the grounding clip is not there!

I’m using this guide to investigate why there are lines on screen or darker screen at certain angles of opening it. Also a background ghosting effect on screen too.

No obvious damage or loose connectors so wondered if the lack of grounding clip can cause these symptoms?

Anybody out there know?

nijafe -

Either buy the clip and check, or replace the screen (or LB), but the macbook would more likely not start if there is a missing grounded connection, depending on what is being grounded.

Sean -

Passo 13

Come precauzione aggiuntiva, puoi scollegare fisicamente la batteria infilando un blocco per batterie tra la scheda madre e il connettore della batteria.

I HAD TO DO THIS TWICE. After replacing the battery while following this guide to a 'T', the battery was not being recognized by the logic board. Strangely, with the power unplugged it would still light up the screen and tell me the battery was at a critical level, but it would not boot. Resetting the SMC had no effect. I thought I killed my computer or got a bad battery, so as a last ditch effort I re-opened the case, pressed the battery disconnect button, removed the screw and inserted the battery separation tool again to Physically Disconnect the battery from the mainboard. After about 5 minutes I then removed the tool and reassembled everything, plugged in via 5v iphone charger and USBA-C cable again and LO, the battery is now reporting correctly, charging correctly and allowing me to boot on its power .

Neil Schultz - 25/04/22

Passo 14

Svita le due viti che tengono ferma la copertura del cavo della porta USB-C.
Una vite Tri-Point Y00 da 1,1 mm
Alcune varianti di questo modello potrebbero usare una vite a croce Phillips #00.
Una vite Torx T5 da 3,5 mm

This was oddly the hardest part. That Tri-Point screw just wouldn’t budge! I had to sand the end of the only Tri-point screwdriver I had in the end to get it to fit.

Stuart - 13/04/20

Be sure to get the metal plate under the chip near where the PT5 screw is before tightening

abscate - 29/09/20

I should have read the comments before using the provided 1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 bit. I almost stripped the screw but was able to use a small flat head bit to open the screw.

Ifixit: you may want to update this part in the instructions. Not everyone reads the comment section, esp. when it comes to specification of bits which is basic and must be accurate. This is one of the more critical ones in the procedure that can easily go south. The rest of the instructions are excellent.

Ki Park - 31/12/20

early 2015 model here. I’ve used a Y1.5 with cautiously applied down force.

beaudry.ian - 25/01/21

My 2015 had a 2.5mm Y screw not a Y000.

Michael Bonney - 05/02/21

Adding to the helpful comments above, on replacing the 1.1mm tripoint screw, I found the the magnetism of the nearby speaker coil overcame that of the driver and would draw the screw away or the combo of forces would fling it out of the work area! After fiddling with it for too long, I used some of the battery adhesive removed earlier to attached the screw to the driver. Wax would probably work better if I’d had some.

jefflyons - 22/04/21

I used the PH00 head to unscrew what they call the “1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 screw”, NOT the Y00 head, and it unscrewed perfectly fine.

Grace Escamilla -

Agreed, my screw was a PH00.

stephen delaney -

I have an early 2015 MacBook and it was a PH00 head I needed to use.

Sean Stein -

Passo 15

Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per scollegare la copertura del cavo della porta USB-C tirandola verso l'alto dalla scheda madre.
Per ricollegare il cavo, prima allinea la copertura in metallo con i fori delle viti, quindi premila sul centro. Assicurati che sia allineata correttamente, o potresti danneggiare il connettore.

Emphasis on aligning the bracket correctly. What the pictures do not show is that underneath the flat part of the metal bracket (the area between the two screw holes) is a connector that needs to be accurately aligned. Aligning the two screw holes does not imply that the connector is seated correctly.

After I re-assembled my 2015 MacBook power would not come on. I thought I had damaged the logic board despite being careful and following instructions. Diagnosing the problem took a while. Retracing the steps and focusing on power supply I was able to determine that the metal flap which hides the connector underneath had not made proper contact.

What I did was to use a finger to get a tactile feel for the connector underneath the metal bracket aligning properly and then press down vertically when it seemed to be aligned. It’s a subtle tactile feel. After re-doing this step, I got power back. Be careful not to damage the connector as noted in the instructions.

Ki Park - 31/12/20

Good tip. It’s so easy to damage these fragile connectors by forcing the plug in and reattaching the mounting plate screws

Peter Newman -

Passo 16

Usa uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul Connettore ZIF del cavo della scheda della presa jack.

Passo 17

Scollega il cavo a nastro della scheda della presa jack sfilandolo parallelamente al connettore ZIF.
Durante il rimontaggio, posiziona il cavo in modo che il lato con la striscia bianca sia rivolto verso di te, come mostrato.

hey my macbook do not have sound after replacing the topcase, i did connect everything like here you did, also I did the reset of PR and NVRAM. What Can I check more? simply when I open the OS, there is no audio device at all

dkflu - 16/07/19

The audio jack cable is a bit of a pain to reinsert. I found if I turned the screen and the bottom on its side, like an open book, I had much better orientation and it was much easier to insert.

Steven Gibson -

Excellent guide and all works like a sharm, but was one issue. After full assemble there wasn't sound. Then I open Macbook again and disconnect and connect audio cable. You must insert cable so, that white stripe will not visible. And sound reveal!

Pzs Serv -

This helped me, thanks!

Egbert Kappert -

Apertura gruppo copertura inferiore MacBook Retina 2015

Introduzione

Strumenti

Passo 1

Passo 2

Passo 3

Passo 4

Passo 5

Passo 6

Passo 7

Passo 8

Passo 9

Passo 10

Passo 11

Passo 12

Passo 13

Passo 14

Passo 15

Passo 16

Passo 17

Autore

Jeff Suovanen

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