MacBook Air 13” Retina Display Late 2018 Right Speaker Replacement

Scritto Da: Adam O'Camb
  • Commenti: 24
MacBook Air 13” Retina Display Late 2018 Right Speaker Replacement

Difficoltà

Moderate

Passi

8

Tempo Necessario

10 - 30 minuti

Introduzione

Use this guide to replace the right speaker in a 2018 MacBook Air. This is the speaker on the headphone jack side of the case.

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    • Before starting this procedure, you should disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide to disable Auto Boot.

    • If your MacBook is running Big Sur v11.1 or later, disabling Auto Boot may not work. You can proceed normally, but make sure to disconnect the battery as soon as you're inside.

    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Air before you start. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 driver to remove the following screws:

    • Two 7.9 mm screws

    • Two 7.1 mm screws

    • Six 2.6 mm screws

    If the first thing you do is disconnect the battery, is it really an issue if you don’t (or can’t) disable auto-boot?

    maccentric -

    I agree, why disable Auto-Boot when the lid is closed and the battery is disconnected immediately? – I've never had an issue since 2016 when the feature was introduced.

    stevebsiegel -

    On my machine, the longest two screws were in the corners, while the other two long screws were in the middle. Perhaps previous service in the past had them replaced into the wrong place? In any case, the longest screws do seem to fit in either place. I guess 0.8mm is not very much of a difference. Seems like poor design if they could have used one size of screw.

    johann beda -

    Just did one, and it also had longest screws in the corners.

    maccentric -

    Just did another, and the long ones were in the middle. Definitely poor design and quality control.

    maccentric -

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    • Wedge your fingers between the display and the lower case and pull upward to pop the lower case off the Air.

    • Remove the lower case.

    • After reassembly, your MacBook might not turn on until it's connected to a power source (a low power phone charger may work). To test your repair, plug in your charger, allow two minutes for your MacBook to turn on, and check that everything works as expected.

    Das geht etwas schwer, da das Unterteil mittig noch von 2 Druckverschlüssen gehalten wird.

    facebook -

    translated and true:
    This is a bit difficult because the lower part is still held in the middle by 2 pressure fasteners.

    Tom -

    Are there any suggestions to removing the pressure fasteners more easily?

    Drea Mastromatteo -

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    • Peel back the tape covering the battery connector enough to reveal the connector underneath.

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    • Use a spudger to slide the battery connector parallel to the logic board and out of its socket on the logic board.

    Before the battery can be fully disconnected, the battery disconnect button needs to be held down. There is a gold button just above the battery socket, along with a small LED much like the 12” machines. Once this has been held down and the LED has switched off it is safe to remove the battery.

    Aaron Dalziel -

    This seems like an important step?

    maccentric -

    Also, seems like this should be done after the battery is disconnected, not before? Otherwise, wouldn’t the battery re-charge it?

    maccentric -

    What if the white LED dosent light up after pressing the yellow button again?

    Iron05 -

    I just performed this repair on my late 2018 mac air. I did click the gold button but saw no LED illuminated or otherwise. Question- after reassembly does the button get pressed again to connect the battery? Please clarify if this button is to be pressed and if it needs pressing again after the repair.

    All said - I pressed again after the battery connector clicked, assembled the back and all worked perfectly. The original issue was one dead port (no charge, no communication). The battery charge lightening bold icon was acting funny too. Genuis bar guy in Naperville said it was likely a logic board too. But it was not. The port was apparently confusing the logic board with regards to the charge function. Thanks Adam for saving me $440 and sending my computer back to Apple. I am 71 yrs young - who says an old dog can’t learn new tricks with good training!!

    William Lane -

    I didn't see Aaron's comment before completing the battery replacement. Afterwards, the computer would not turn on despite multiple SMC reset procedures. Upon double-checking the comments I see the importance of pressing the gold button. I pressed the gold button before disconnecting the new battery, then pressed it again after reconnecting for good measure. Computer booted!

    It would be good of iFixit to add this important step as most people probably don't open up every single comment on (seemingly) simple steps.

    Corey Matsumoto -

    Seconding Corey's comment. If paid more attention to the comment section, I would have avoided 15-30 minutes of panic. (BTW I did not notice any LED, but the golden button was easy to find).

    Lorenzo Sorbo -

    Where is the gold button? I replaced my battery and my laptop will not start

    Candace Williams -

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    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift up the black adhesive pull tab at the bottom of the right speaker, enough so you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, leave it in and proceed to the next step.

    What do you do to get the speaker to stick once you put things back together? Are these adhesive strips reusable? If not, where can we get new ones?

    Ryan -

    The strips will tend to remain edhesive in some cases but if not just use some thin double sided adhesive tape of a similar width. I will not link because I am in Australia but it isn’t hard to find. I used some heat (100°C) and a plastic spudger to aid removal or a hair dryer on lower heat. Slow and steady, it’s not hard. The strips will almost certainly break.

    Peter Newman -

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    • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the right speaker cable and pry straight up to disconnect the speaker.

    this is a bit tricky -- looks like it's one of the connectors where you lift the bar deal, but I don't think it is. Managed to break pins on this one. Perhaps another photo?

    Seaphotog -

    Broke both speaker connectors by spudging straight up. Looks like they should slide apart like a normal zif.

    Paul M Krause -

    Pulled straight up and broke both connectors.

    Paul M Krause -

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    • Use tweezers to lift the adhesive pull tab at the top of the right speaker enough that you can grab it with your fingers.

    • Grab the adhesive strip pull tab and slowly and carefully pull the adhesive strip out from under the speaker.

    • Keep the angle of the adhesive strip as parallel to the laptop as you can. Try to avoid dragging it across the inside of the case.

    • If the adhesive strip breaks, or if the first adhesive strip broke, use a heated iOpener or heat gun to help remove the adhesive:

    • Apply heat to the speaker to soften the adhesive underneath.

    • Carefully slide a spudger or opening pick underneath the speaker to separate the adhesive.

    This business of pulling the adhesive out (here and with the batteries) - at first it seems impossible, but persevere. Pull it really, really, slowly - it extends to around 30cm before it's all out. I applied a bit of heat with a heat gun (at least with the batteries) and after a few failed attempts got the hang of it. When it works, it's like magic and very satisfying, and much better than giving up and prising the part off with the adhesive in place.

    Neale Whyatt -

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    • Lift the right speaker straight up from the bottom and remove it.

    Step 5 the right speaker adhesive broken while removing, other end adhesive slipped out ok. But it's extremely hard to now lift up the battery, feels like I break something if I try harder.

    handsonmac -

    This is not as easy as it sounds. Neither adhesive strip broke, but that bugger resists removal, because it is attached with adhesive tape to the bottom. Use different angles of attack to pry it up with steady force.

    Ronald Troxel -

Conclusione

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

Autore

Adam O'Camb

Membro da: 11/04/15

195148 Reputazione

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