Sostituisci la fotocamera anteriore e il cavo sensore dell'iPhone 7 Plus

Scritto Da: Jeff Suovanen
  • Commenti: 130
Sostituisci la fotocamera anteriore e il cavo sensore dell'iPhone 7 Plus

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

28

Tempo Necessario

40 minuti - 2 ore

Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire una fotocamera anteriore difettosa sul tuo iPhone 7 Plus. Questo elemento fa parte di un gruppo più ampio che contiene un microfono e i sensori di prossimità e di luce ambiente; questi ultimi devono essere sostituiti come fossero una singola unità.

  1. lmhcoVgsVMmGK1sw

    • Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere se viene perforata accidentalmente.

    • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.

    • Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe da 3,4 mm sul lato inferiore dell'iPhone.

    • L'apertura del display dell'iPhone comprometterà le sue tenute impermeabili. Prima di procedere con il prossimo passo, dovrai procurarti guarnizioni sostitutive; se in fase di rimontaggio non procederai a questa sostituzione, dovrai poi prestare una particolare cura a non esporre il tuo iPhone a danni da liquidi.

    The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

    pargoff -

    The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.

    iHelpU.Tech -

    Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!

    Vanessa Pinter -

    How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

    adam -

    The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

    lkollar -

    Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Sostituzione guarnizione adesiva display iPhone

    bester -

    I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

    Charles Meitin -

    Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

    My favourites are:

    Use a hot water bottle.

    Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

    Test the lightning assembly at step 13

    There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.

    etc...

    Neil Eriksen -

    A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.

    Herb

    Herb Adler -

    The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.

    Gareth Flandro -

  2. XUktKLOCPaciWbL2

    • Scaldare il bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuterà ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che fissa il display rendendolo più facile da aprire.

    • Usa un phon o un iOpener sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone per circa un minuto in modo da ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.

    How long should I use a hairdryer for?

    Warren Binder -

    I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.

    gczarny -

    Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering

    jessabethany -

    First I tried to remove the screen with the hot iOpener, but it doesn’t worked, the day after I putted the Iphone in the sun for a while and then used the hot iOpener, then the screen was easy to remove :-)

    Marc Boon -

    Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,

    www.tertlegerl -

    I don’t think the iOpener was effective at softening the adhesive. Using a suction cup and the spudger is good enough.

    Mac -

    I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.

    Michael Maier -

    How can I get all this tools

    Ajibol emmanuel -

    Pour ouvrir mon iPhone 7+ j’ai utilisé un séchoir à cheveux avec modération. Cela a été beaucoup plus facile

    Serge -

  3. QkQCsE1Zo1LMstsE
    QkQCsE1Zo1LMstsE
    bAxOw2QF2CDIYIpB

    • Applica una ventosa nella metà inferiore del pannello frontale, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Assicurati che la ventosa non si sovrapponga al pulsante home, perché in questo modo si comprometterebbe la tenuta all'aria tra la ventosa e il vetro anteriore.

    • Se il tuo display è gravemente danneggiato, coprirlo con uno strato di nastro adesivo trasparente da pacchi potrebbe aiutare la ventosa ad aderire. In alternativa, è possibile usare un nastro molto resistente al posto della ventosa. Se anche questo fallisce, puoi incollare la ventosa allo schermo rotto con della supercolla (cianoacrilica).

    Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?

    kaiminliu119 -

    Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??

    robertread -

    The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.

    Charles Meitin -

    Moi j’ai utilisé un séchoir à cheveux cela a été beaucoup plus facile pour l’ouvrir , mais avec modération

    Serge -

  4. B42ufcARi3bVAURY
    B42ufcARi3bVAURY
    kPSe6jXIJFcBE5rk
    qJeHEUiARuDmJKHH

    • Tira la ventosa con una pressione forte e costante per creare una piccola fessura tra il pannello anteriore e il case posteriore.

    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger nella fessura.

    • L'adesivo a prova d'acqua che tiene in posizione il display è molto tenace; la creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede una notevole applicazione di forza. Se hai difficoltà ad aprire una fessura, spingi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare dentro uno spudger.

    • Mentre continui a tirare la ventosa, fai ruotare lo spudger per allargare l'apertura tra lo schermo e il case posteriore.

    Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).

    Benjamin Pounds -

    I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?

    whtafrcn420 -

    Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .

    MajorCouillon -

    You won’t be able to put the spudger into the gap unless the phone is in a vertical position (speaker side up) in your hands.

    Mac -

    read steps 4-9 before attempting. I cracked my glass because I didn’t

    David Lei -

    My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.

    My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.

    iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.

    Big Ed -

    This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.

    James Osborne -

    Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.

    James Osborne -

    Be aware that there is a small connector, under the home button.

    Herb Adler -

    I found that the edge of the spudger was too thick, so I sanded it down to almost a knife edge. This made it much easier to insert into the gap.

    Herb Adler -

    Use the Opener and a razor blade to cut through the adhesive. It takes about 45 seconds to heat up the Opener in a 1000 watt microwave. Be careful not to damage the thin display ribbon cables on the right side iphone. After you use the razor blade to cut the adhesive on the two sides and bottom you should be able to use the spudger to remove the display screen.

    larrywert -

  5. kuaYdrJrBKqV2oiI
    kuaYdrJrBKqV2oiI
    DppWOQQUFWhiIQmK
    hviLJx3oefn6IJk3

    • Inserisci l'estremità piatta di uno spudger tra il pannello anteriore e il case posteriore nella parte inferiore sinistra dell'iPhone.

    • Fai scorrere lo spudger lungo il lato sinistro del telefono iniziando dal basso e muovendoti verso i pulsanti del controllo volume e dello switch suoneria/silenzioso, per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.

    • Non cercare di staccare la parte superiore del display dal case posteriore, perché è tenuto in sede da clip in plastica che potrebbero rompersi.

  6. ebTEdalPStEFwprn
    ebTEdalPStEFwprn
    TcvF6HREfbLQd12j

    • Rimuovi lo spudger dal lato sinistro del telefono e inserisci la sua estremità piatta nell'angolo inferiore destro.

    • Fai scorrere lo spudger sul lato destro del telefono fino all'angolo superiore per rompere l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.

  7. KRSf5aPqMubL3siA
    KRSf5aPqMubL3siA
    rP5ESkqIt3tEq2Th

    • Tira la ventosa per sollevare il display e aprire l'iPhone.

    • Non sollevare il display più di 10° perché ci sono dei delicati cavi a nastro lungo il lato destro del dispositivo che connettono il display alla scheda logica.

    The ribbon cable part should be said earlier instead of halfway through

    I just broke one because of it

    BrenX1 -

  8. UqjoOlLyth4N5RTX
    UqjoOlLyth4N5RTX
    YB3djkmK3OBKgwAR

    • Tira la piccola linguetta sulla ventosa per rimuovere la ventosa dal pannello anteriore.

  9. gQLjVmwVCr5rcqCo
    gQLjVmwVCr5rcqCo
    KBRYMMwmcXRcyNMd

    • Fai scorrere una levetta di apertura sotto il display lungo il lato superiore del telefono per indebolire l'adesivo rimanente.

    I couldn't find the pick in the tool set, so made my own. Then I found the original in the battery box. %#*@.

    Herb Adler -

    Same thing for me

    Jason Skelton -

  10. c3SYZXxuPyoxPGU2
    c3SYZXxuPyoxPGU2
    A1WVvvZb1eBsEBvg
    Kb3jum1WnDlDRHJF

    • Tira il gruppo display allontanandolo lievemente dal bordo superiore del telefono per sfilare le clip che lo fissano al case posteriore.

    • Apri l'iPhone inclinando il display e sollevandolo dal lato sinistro, come si farebbe con la quarta di copertina di un libro.

    • Non cercare già ora di separare completamente il display, perché questo è collegato alla scheda logica dell'iPhone con diversi fragili cavi piatti.

    So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?

    Robert Danson -

    Probably the screen

    Christian Sirolli -

  11. UHPAQ4xaQQRZEEc2

    • Rimuovi le seguenti quattro viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa inferiore del cavo del display alla scheda logica:

    • Tre viti da 1,2 mm

    • Una vite da 2,6 mm

    Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

    u204863 -

    Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.

    Mark -

    The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?

    shannon caldwell -

    At first I think I was being too careful and was getting no where. I got better results by pressing down on the screwdriver with more pressure while turning and those little screws came right out.

    LadyTech -

    I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?

    Katherine Monday -

    @katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

    AubreyG1 -

    A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

    Trey Smith -

    STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

    John Grant -

    i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

    Tina Matthews -

    there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?

    Lars Göbel -

    what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off

    Neylley Reynoso -

  12. k34xU4RKWbs1uk5K
    k34xU4RKWbs1uk5K
    GKWmAgKZl1p5xwIU

    • Rimuovi la staffa inferiore del cavo del display.

    I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    chris west -

    If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

    Scott Havard -

    Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol

    Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.

    jeffrey griffith -

    I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

    lkollar -

  13. VS1FiZyZHebFIuQo
    VS1FiZyZHebFIuQo
    ZZUGd2VCcGplGEZm
    uSeYoeEvmaI6TPuB

    • Usa l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Piega lievemente verso l'alto il cavo del connettore per impedirgli di fare contatto con lo zoccolo e alimentare così il telefono.

    You could cover the battery socket with a small piece of tape to make sure that it doesn’t accidentally re-connect. It’s not likely to, but I liked the peace of mind.

    Mark -

    on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.

    Sarr Sheffer -

    I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.

    MajorCouillon -

    After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

    Evan O -

  14. EjPXnLkfPYtKriYF
    EjPXnLkfPYtKriYF
    ohPCtWpSggN3HkmE
    Fpc2oOAExSPUJGn2

    • In questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata quando disconnetti o riconnetti i cavi.

    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger oppure un'unghia per disconnettere i due connettori inferiori del display sollevandoli verso l'alto dai loro zoccolini sulla scheda logica.

    • Per ricollegare il connettore a pressione, premi una delle estremità finché il clic conferma il corretto posizionamento, poi ripeti l'operazione dall'altra parte. Non premere in mezzo. Se il connettore è anche lievemente fuori allineamento, il connettore può piegarsi, causando un danno permanente.

    • Se dopo aver rimontato il telefono ti ritrovi con uno schermo bianco, linee bianche sul display oppure se manca, del tutto o in parte, la risposta touch, prova a staccare e riattaccare con cura entrambi questi cavi e assicurati che siano ben bloccati in posizione.

    The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

    Talon -

    What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?

    Alextay -

    Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….

    Darius Varanavičius -

    what are my options if the display connector broke? can it be replaced or do I need to get a whole new screen?

    matomach -

    When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

    Grant Crawford -

    My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol

    Joshua Driscoll -

    have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…

    ibisiki -

    Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

    nicO -

  15. eOV4A2QhwOEwbiHK
    eOV4A2QhwOEwbiHK
    PHEMGNluvvEJ1qga
    AiXmxFQOUDwwQlS2

    • Rimuovi le tre viti tri-wing Y000 che fissano la staffa sopra il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello anteriore:

    • Una vite da 1,3 mm

    • Due viti da 1,0 mm

    • Rimuovi la staffa.

    Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

    chris west -

    I know your comment was posted a long time ago but just in case someone else has the same problem, the only difference in the screws are the lengths. The ends are the same.

    mcr4u2 -

    What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?

    assweeetasyou -

    Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!

    Wayne Lyell -

    Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +

    Jeremiah Kjensmo -

    I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction

    Kayla Tobin -

    Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

    alicenine84 -

    Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.

    Benji -

    I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.

    Stephen Patterson -

    I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

    I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

    My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

    Would appreciate any advice!

    jrosegoep -

    Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

    Robert Schmidt -

  16. HP3GYMeDTQfroDSM
    HP3GYMeDTQfroDSM
    rYVXLQtY5ZhLE5pe

    • Disconnetti il connettore del gruppo sensore del pannello anteriore dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Questo connettore a pressione deve essere ricollegato un estremo per volta per minimizzare il rischio di piegatura.

    Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!

    Kevin Reilly -

    Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.

    Lukas Watts -

    That's save my life!thanks god!

    neg -

    I also made this mistake! Thank goodness it didn’t break anything.

    That Guy -

  17. 6sXLpmxMPOVXtwBd

    When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.

    Benji -

    Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!

    Robert O'Brien -

    is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.

    jacobra -

    Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.

    Hannes -

    I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.

    Shawn Hime -

    I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.

    In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/

    If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.

    Rob Russell -

    This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.

    Jezagee -

  18. lq2AcaLB1SI2I3Xa

    • Rimuovi le cinque viti Phillips che bloccano la staffa dell'altoparlante voce:

    • Due viti da 1,8 mm

    • Una vite da 2,3 mm

    • Una vite da 2,4 mm

    • Una vite da 2,8 mm

  19. JqfEKiDQP5sFV2jx

    • Rimuovi la staffa dell'altoparlante voce.

  20. weNHtbs6RIyLMFED
    weNHtbs6RIyLMFED
    wgdjLcvJWGvqpDl6
    2yWx1cv5OOJFKBfl

    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare la fotocamera anteriore dal suo alloggiamento.

    • Piega delicatamente di lato il cavo a nastro della fotocamera per liberare l'accesso all'altoparlante da orecchio sottostante.

    How is this bit waterproofed on re-assembly?

    Cool_Breeze -

    The screen/display that I got, already included a camera/speaker. So I didn’t have to remove it.

    I finished my repair and then started to use the phone again. I noticed Facetime was not working anymore (cameras, speakers and microphone was OK). I tried a few solutions I found on the Internet but nothing seemed to work. I open the phone back up and replaced the pre-installed camera with the old one I had on the broken screen/display. Closed the phone again and now Facetime works without any issues. I just wanted to pass that along.

    Federico Montes -

  21. ovm2rMQSyAGBZeLc

    • Rimuovi l'altoparlante voce.

    • Non toccare con le dita i quattro contatti a molla: i grassi presenti sulla tua pelle possono provocare malfunzionamenti. Se tocchi accidentalmente i contatti, puliscili con delicatezza con alcol isopropilico (concentrazione superiore al 90%).

    If you’re looking to continue on and replace the speaker mesh, take a look at the camera/cable replacement guide.

    Sostituisci la fotocamera anteriore e il cavo sensore dell'iPhone 7 Plus

    tgruetzm -

    I almost forgot to clean the spring contacts, thanks for reminding me.

    Maganafixes -

  22. nWbASNbRUFK1mSWI
    nWbASNbRUFK1mSWI
    mJW5SMuJCjkIUNWA

    • Piega delicatamente verso il fondo dell'iPhone la fotocamera e il cavo a nastro collegato a questa per consentire l'accesso ai componenti sottostanti.

  23. 1bJEhRE2kVNTIHMs
    1bJEhRE2kVNTIHMs
    YtqIo6jJvBVRpSEP

    • I sensori trattati in questo passaggio sono fragili. Per aumentare le probabilità di rimuoverli senza danneggarli, prima di procedere usa il tuo iOpener o un asciugacapelli per scaldare la parte superiore dello schermo. In alternativa, prima di agire su di essi, applica una o due gocce di alcool isopropilico e lascia che penetrino sotto il sensore.

    • Fai scorrere uno spudger sotto il cavo flessibile del sensore di luminosità ambientale e sollevalo fuori dal suo alloggiamento.

  24. lWCj5tnDljfCEcLe
    lWCj5tnDljfCEcLe
    fBCZqPgDCSJdubtA
    EOpyCluhLWMmrwxM

    • Fai scorrere la punta di uno spudger sotto il cavo flessibile del sensore di prossimità e solleva il sensore fuori dal suo alloggiamento.

  25. IiltRTtcVy6VZGA3
    IiltRTtcVy6VZGA3
    vyVA4Sbpp2SorjM2
    s4NAA2FNDkjFFgcH

    • Inserisci l'estremità affilata di uno strumento di apertura iFixit sotto il cavo flessibile del gruppo della fotocamera, sul lato opposto della fotocamera anteriore.

    • Se necessario, usa un iOpener o un asciugacapelli per scaldare la porzione superiore del display e ammorbidire l'adesivo che tiene fermo il cavo flessibile.

    • Fai leva per separare il bordo del cavo flessibile dal retro del display.

    prying this up is sometimes difficult. I always keep a new one on hand incase. they are not expensive. if you separate the black strip, prox sensor will not work.

    Lee Attaway -

    what if the black tape and the flex got seperated, is there a solution to get the earspeaker work gain? coz i tried putting the adhesive tape again behind the flex but still no luck.. what can i do?

    Mac -

    i think this just happened to me…

    william seiji marini -

    With this repair, you can just re-apply light heat to the front glass before removing this flex cable. The heat will transfer to the adhesive and will allow you to remove this flex cable very easily. Ensure that you have followed the previous steps so that you do not damage the ambient light filter and the proximity sensor. Always make sure that you pull very gently here as this is one of the most common damages caused to an iPhone 7 series. If the black strip sticks to the frame during removal, just make sure to put it back in it’s right place and you should have no issue; assuming you didn’t damage the flex cable. Always wear gloves. - TM

    Tyler Massey -

  26. 2JCNCEYKj32SufRD
    2JCNCEYKj32SufRD
    Mn15nutPi3FJFLXN
    MESRo1WnMbhMXqm5

    • Inserisci la punta di uno spudger sotto la stessa parte del cavo flessibile che avevi separato nel passo precedente.

    • Continua a separare il resto del cavo flessibile, spingendo lo spudger verso la linea di contatti dorati circolari dell'altoparlante voce.

  27. SFvHvLvno3VX3aNf

    • Continua a usare il tuo spudger per separare delicatamente l'ultima parte del cavo flessibile dal retro del display.

  28. IajPwZS3UIDq2fAJ
    IajPwZS3UIDq2fAJ
    XTFRVtfwyBqQdjup
    kVQTxVmCiuEkCn3Q

    • Rimuovi il gruppo fotocamera e il cavo del sensore.

    • Tra lo schermo e le tre file di contatti in rame sul retro della fotocamera/cavo del sensore, si trova un pezzo di nastro biadesivo isolante, che rimanere incollato allo schermo o venire via insieme al cavo.

    • In fase di rimontaggio, verifica che il nastro sia nella posizione giusta, oppure copri i contatti sul retro del cavo con del nastro appropriato, come il nastro Kapton.

    Is there instruction on how to bend the cable?

    Steven Martinez -

    You really need that tape, If still no sound after placing the tape in place, then you might have damaged the flex cable. Worthy to mention, that some replacement screens come without the ambient light filter (white film seem on the screen) and without the plastic brackets for the camera and proximity sensor, which in those cases, you would have to transfer those parts to the new screen. Also in some screens, the holes for the proximity sensor are not properly done and you might end up with a non-working proximity sensor. In those cases, just remove the pain with the spugger where the proximity sensor locates (removes the black paint) and then add some black permanent marker over it to make it black. That way, it will look pristine form the outside but just thin enough for the proximity sensor to work.

    H. Alves -

    I had issues regarding sound after reassembling the iPhone. I initially used kapton tape. I could hear the caller but they could hear me. I checked every avenue I thought of, I recorded myself speaking which was fine so there was nothing wrong with the mic. I ended up heating the black insulator and transferring it and reseating the earpiece and flex assembly. After a couple attempts the mic was restored to normal operation.

    Paul Wilson -

    yeah the mic and the earpiece not working , what is the solution for this problem ?

    يوسف الريمي -

    Do not pull on the cable an be gentle with the heat. There is a potential that the cable, which is soldered together on this part.

    I had an issue with a costumers flex cable an the ear speaker stopped working bit the cable looked okay and I did not pull on it. So I used an soldering iron with a small tip, put some flux tape where the doubled-sided tape sits on the pads and soldered the cable back together at about 390 degrees celsius. It now works perfectly again.

    Raphael -

    After replacing screen, front camera doesn’t work. Replaced camera cable cable with a new cable; still no front camera. Rear camera works fine. Also, have a software “Home” button showing up. Finger Touch ID works and works as the Home button should as far as I can tell, How do I get rid of it?

    Kevin Reilly -

    Earpiece is also not working

    Kevin Reilly -

    So i had the same problem that the erapiece only is not working after replacement..

    my soulotion was to reassmble all the flat out the there is a black double sided tape that need to put exactly on the back of the golden points behind the flat.

    once the tape back on those golden tips it should work properly

    aviel3019 -

    Another thing to be careful of is the area where the black tape sits is actually two pieces of cable that are glued together and are connected by about 15 tiny contacts.

    I must have heated the cable too much and ended up separating these two layers when prying… I put them back together but it must have not been lined up correctly as the proximity sensor and earpiece speaker did not work (the parts on the layer that came off), whereas the front camera did as that is on the same layer as the camera and was therefore intact.

    I may attempt to re align the connectors again but I feel as though a replacement flex assembly may be the more appropriate solution!

    I admit that this is my fault for overheating the component and not taking enough care, but what a weird design! Why couldn’t it have been one whole cable?

    Ed Beckett -

    Did the replacement flex fix this issue?

    Danielle Lewis -

    is it okay to use electric tape in that case to cover the copper pieces? i installed everthing and the front camera works and the speaker works just when i make a call it turns off.. any recommendations?

    3dvapeandsmoke -

    why wouldnt it come with the tape on already? Im about to put electric tape because i dont have anything else.

    Anthony Fieno -

    なぜiPhone7Plusのフロントカメラフレックスケーブルには裏面に金属端子のような部分があるのでしょうか？

    iPhone7やiPhone8にはこの部分がありませんが必要な役割がありますか？

    bakkas-3.30 -

    After replacing iPhone 7+ screen I can’t call out or answer calls everything else works cleaned contacts with alcohol wipes put it back together and same thing the time is right I even updated the os since installing the new screen but phone reboots every time a call comes in or I dial out any suggestions

    wachteldane69 -

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Jeff Suovanen

Membro da: 06/08/13

426762 Reputazione

17 commenti

Do I have to do this if i buy a new phone screen or do they usually come with one?

Tom Robinson -

If this Speaker is Not Working or it has any Noise Issues, Apple will Replace whole Front Display Section. Under their Policy, they won’t repair it. Neither Fully Replace your iPhone, only Front Panel Replacement.

macktm -

Does 7 and 7plus has the same camera/sensor strip?

Salman Siddeeque Ali -

No, it’s a bit different.

The spacing between the metal dots for the earspeaker isn’t there on the 7+ model, but is on the 7.

Benjamin Convents -

Anybody got a solution to earpiece not working after ribbon swap?

Seems to be mega common with this repair. I’ve heard a few ideas but nothing concrete. More advice about this issue would be greatly appreciated by me and a bunch of people.

michael wehner -

@linx7 Make sure the speaker spring contacts are intact and clean. Give the four circular contacts on the ribbon cable a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. Double and triple-check to make sure the flex cables are connected and seated properly and that the sockets are clean. Double-check the insulating tape as explained in this step. If none of that works, something is damaged or defective—replace the entire sensor/cable assembly and try again. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

@jeffsu thank you man, a few pieces of electrical tape and cleaning the connectors worked perfect.

michael wehner -

After replacing the front camera/sensor/speaker cable, everything works. But I could not get the AMBIENT LIGHT SENSOR to work.

The AUTO BRIGHTNESS ON/OFF TOGGLE under DISPLAY ACCOMODATIONS is GONE.

I can only MANUALLY adjust the setting. It’s really annoying and disappointing.

Even after resetting the iOS Settings, the TOGGLE is still gone.

Any Suggestions?

Eric Vengeance -

I was also having trouble with my ambient light/prox sensor working when I got the other problems resolved. I turned out that screen’s black or white color Comes from a thin layer of paint applied to the back side of the glass.

I ended up taking a sharp pair of tweezers and gently scraping away the paint inside, right were the sensor sits. Viola the sensors can see and work again.

It left an ugly clear mark so I could under the glass, but since my screen is black a little sharpie blended it in fine and left a translucent window for the sensor.

I never had the buttons in iOS be disabled tho. Maybe the phone knows the sensor can't see, or it could be a bad cable or hardware. I'm not completely sure on the issue.

michael wehner -

there’s a white piece of plastic very small to the left of the ambient light sensor that does not come with the new screen replacement. Do we have to transfer that into the new screen as well? the answer is not shown in this tutorial and I am having issues with the ambient light sensor.

Cesar Andrade -

yeah some replacement screens don’t come with those (2?) tiny brackets. I cant believe they skipped over it either… I dont think they come with this ribbon assembly either. On one build i had to pop the brackets off of the old screen (they we glued to the screen’s frame) and use a tiny piece of electric tape to hold everything in place on the new screen’s frame. It took a little patience but amb/prox still sit in place and works fine months later.

michael wehner -

I accidentally separated the two ribbon cables. (Front Camera and proximity sensor) Could this cause a problem with the home button? Because, now the home button works only when the phone is laying down but after lifting it up and moving around, the home button stops functioning. Could it be that the ribbon cables were glued but now they are loose? Just asking to rule out the home/touch id button or the camera/proximity sensor cables. The cameras work fine by the way.

Marc Antony -

Hi guys,

i replaced this flex cable, because the old was broken and now my light sensor wont working, the button for auto-brightness is gone, all connections are checked and is fine, only the light sensor is wont working

Burciu Valentin-Catalin -

I replaced this sensor cable put everything back together turned it on….just shows the apple icon don’t go to home screen???

Buddy2665 Williams -

i assemble new flex cable but still proximity sensor does not work

Adam Shakyl -

I replaced the front facing camera, but it didn’t resolve the problem with the front facing camera. The socket on the logic board must be damaged.

Mac -

just take in mind that if you break the proximity sensor, both speakers won’t work anymore.

Ghjuvanni Bianconi -