Sostituzione Pulsante dorsale sinistro Steam Deck

Scritto Da: Carsten Frauenheim

Commenti: 108

Sostituzione Pulsante dorsale sinistro Steam Deck

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

Tempo Necessario

45 minuti - 2 ore

Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire il pulsante dorsale sinistro (L1) del tuo Steam Deck LCD.

Ricorda: segui le procedure di sicurezza generali relative alle scariche elettrostatiche (ESD) durante la riparazione del tuo dispositivo.

Strumenti

Ricambi

Steam Deck Left Bumper Button Assembly

Passo 1

Accendi il tuo Steam Deck e lascia che la batteria si scarichi sotto al 25% prima di iniziare la riparazione, perché una batteria agli ioni di litio potrebbe essere pericolosa se danneggiata accidentalmente.
Come ulteriore precauzione, Valve raccomanda di mettere il tuo Steam Deck in modalità di conservazione della batteria dal BIOS prima di iniziare riparazioni invasive. Leggi come farlo qui.
Spegni il tuo Steam Deck e scollega tutti i cavi.
Se hai installato una microSD, assicurati di averla rimossa prima di iniziare ad aprire il tuo Steam Deck. Se cercherai di rimuovere il pannello posteriore con una microSD installata, potrebbe spezzarsi a metà.
Durante la riparazione, potrebbe esserti d'aiuto poggiare la Steam deck a faccia in giù nella sua custodia per proteggere gli analogici e prevenire le vibrazioni.

Passo 2

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le otto viti che tengono fermo il pannello posteriore:
Quattro viti da 9,5 mm a filettatura grossa
Quattro viti da 5,8 mm a filettatura fine
Nonostante gli standard, i cacciaviti a croce Phillips possono variare in dimensione e forma: due cacciaviti della stessa dimensione potrebbero entrare in modo diverso sulla stessa vite. Utilizza la dimensione che meglio si adatta alla testa della vite.
Nel corso di tutta la riparazione, tieni traccia di ogni vite e assicurati di riposizionarla nel suo posto originario per evitare danni al tuo Steam Deck.

there should be a picture of the SD card slot at the start of every Steam Deck teardown. i know the note is there but i generally use the pictures to guide me and forgetting to remove the SD card is a very critical step

Nathan Barrow -

I agree, I just broke mine...

Camille B -

What is the the #1 philips used for? Only the #0 is mentioned in the instructions.

Christopher Martin -

I wish they would specify which size to use for which screws.

Mark D -

I found it easiest to use a PH1 for the red screws, and PH0 for the rest (including the internals.)

Chris Clawson -

Be careful you can strip the screws take your time

I use PH00 bit

jaybush74 -

I used the PH1 bit for this. You can use smaller bits but ideally there should be no play of the bit in the screw head.

Charles Semple -

are there playstation replacements (circle,square,cross,triangle)

Deór -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 size for the screws on the back.

Luis B - 10/01/23

I've completed the guide and found it very helpful!

I think somewhere in this part it would be helpful to name the size of the correct Phillips driver to use:

Use a Phillips driver to remove the eight screws securing the back cover:

Four 9.5 mm screws

Four 5.8 mm screws

Maynard -

I used the PH1 for the 9.5mm screws and PH00 for the 5.8mm screws. The PH0 wanted to strip one of the small ones.

Pol Llovet -

FYI - 512gb version has blue threadlocker on the Orange screws.

Kyle -

Just a point for knowledge sake, the Four 5.8mm screws on this step are factory installed with a version of locktite. Not sure why but there will be slight resistance when removing the first time.

Derek Schmidlin -

Stripped two of the 5.8mm screws, feel pretty dumb, now I'm stuck at step 2 of 43 :|

Yareyous -

Passo 3

Inserisci un plettro di apertura nella fessura sottile tra la cover posteriore e il guscio frontale, lungo il bordo dell'impugnatura destra.
Se dovessi avere difficoltà nell'inserire il tuo plettro nella riga sull'impugnatura, prova prima iniziando superiormente o inferiormente sul margine lungo, dopodichè fai scivolare il plettro verso l'impugnatura.
Fai leva sulla cover posteriore per sganciare le clip di bloccaggio.

I found it easiest to start this process at the top of the device near the fan exit.

Peter Lindberg -

second that and inserting the pick in the bottom middle and sliding the pick to each side

Sub -

I also found the top near the fan exit to be easier

Travis Patton -

Thank you for this tip, it definitely was easy starting at the top instead of by the bumper/triggers. After I opened the top I did the bottom and then it was way easier to gently open the sides. be very careful and go slowly to make sure that none of the clips are damaged

Luis B -

this as suggested above:

1. open the top

2. open the bottom

3.gently open the sides

austrasier - 17/04/23

same; i pried from the top of the screen area. I was unable to find an opening on the side

Dennis Wu -

I also started from the middle of the deck and worked my way out since I couldn't get a grip with the pick on the deck's side grips. Since this is a common step for pretty much all guides for opening the deck I think it's also worth noting that you should be careful not to bend the trims/seams where the front and back covers meet with the pick. When I first opened my deck you can definitely see where I nudged the pick in between the covers since I was probably using too much force on the pick itself.

Kaleb McKone -

It would be useful to note here that if you want to insert the little blue triangular iFixit opening picks into the right side along the edge, there isn't actually a gap as the directions say, at least not on newer Decks. You'll be making the initial gap using the pick. Brace it on something because you will need to use enough downward force that you're flexing the pick a bit and it'll probably be digging into the skin of a bare hand. With enough force suddenly it will make a click and go in just a bit, and then you're in business.

CaptFrost -

plastic picks didnt work for me but finger males did the job on prying this open

jacobbagsic -

I found it easiest to open starting with R1 or L1 buttons and proceeding to the center of the top edge

Karol Gro -

This step was the hardest by far. First I didn't find an opening at the sides, and it did take a really long time until I finally got it open... Then, when I had the one side opening open it didn't just pop out, I needed to slide all the way to the other side with the pick and open everything. I guess they made it even more drop resistant.

Dollique -

Passo 4

Una volta sganciate le clip da uno dei bordi, il resto si stacca facilmente.
Afferra la cover posteriore dall'apertura che hai appena creato e sollevala e allontanala dal dispositivo per sganciare le clip sui lati lunghi.
Rimuovi la cover posteriore.

If you have an SD card, you will want to take it out. I followed the guide and didn't think about the SD card I had inside. When I went to snap the case back on it clapped shut on the exposed SD card, shearing it in half and leaving the bottom half stuck in the SD card slot. I am still endeavoring to get it out.

Novice -

you can use the case that comes with the steam deck to support it once the lid is removed

Luis Barbosa (Armored Saint) -

You can get the pry pick inserted easier if you start in the gap for the shoulder buttons. A lego brick separator works well here

Andrew Borsje -

Passo 5

Se possiedi una versione aggiornata dello Steam Deck con la copertura nera della scheda madre, salta questo passaggio.
Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere il pezzo di foglio d'alluminio che copre la vite nascosta sulla protezione della scheda madre.
Se possibile, cerca di non strappare questo nastro adesivo, così da poterlo riusare. Se necessario, puoi sostituirlo tagliando un pezzo di nastro d'alluminio a misura.

Use some heat here from a hairdryer to make this part easier.

If you screw up here you can replace the little aluminium square with some aluminium tape from Amazon. No less than 50 microns thick, slightly thicker is fine. and the square is 13mm both ways.

Matt S -

Thanks for that Matt, i destroyed the original tape and i had no solution since i read your comment.

Cihan Kocaman -

there are other new version of board shield from 2023.

Gorf Woo -

Is it alright to use the deck without the tape?

Jake -

You should not. This is EM shielding to protect your processor and ram from radio waves in the air

Andrew Borsje -

I found out my 3 Weeks new Steam Deck is a old Version... gg. Valve...

Miller Schiffer -

wenn ich aluminium foile benutze, womit soll ich sie dann verkleben?

Christian Dud -

If we have the new version with the black shield, how do we access the SSD?

James Bennett -

I need this part, does anyone know where to get it?

rolando norica -

Passo 6

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le tre viti che tengono ferma la protezione della scheda:
Una vite da 3,4 mm
Due viti da 3,7 mm
Sulle versioni aggiornate degli Steam Deck sono presenti solo le due viti da 3,7 mm lungo il bordo sinistro.

The procedure ended here for me, used an ifixit PH 00 bit on the screw behind the aluminium tape, bit wouldnt bite too great, one wrong twist and the screw was stripped. Not sure who or what initially screwed in that particular screw as the rest of the screws on the shield were fine, but boy is it in there tight. So now i have a stripped screw and a botched ssd replacement, don't think valve will let me RMA for this, but i'll give it a try and update accordingly.

Y. van S -

Any updates? Did they let you RMA?

Emanuel Gjoni -

I found one screw to be ridiculously tight too, managed to undo it without stripping thanks to reading your comment beforehand and going extra careful. Not going to lie, it was a tense moment :D

Andy HL -

I think the tendency is to go too small on the screwdriver bits because you're working on small electronics.

I used the PH1 bit on the screw under the foil and the PH0 bit for the two remaining screws without any problems.

Charles Semple -

What does this shield actually do? Some kind of magnetic protection?

Corey Cleric -

if I had to replace the key (R2) and that's it, can I directly remove it or do I have to act here on the motherboard too?

pujattidanny -

have you gotten an answer yet? trying to change mines as well but dont wanna do too much to the deck

briaNN -

button Not key, i’m sorry

pujattidanny -

I used the ifixit tools and used the 00 PH for these screws with no issue

Luis B -

If only swapping the SSD, it is not necessary to remove the top left 3.7mm screw. The heat shield is flexible enough that you can move it out of the way to access the SSD screw. For me this was necessary as the 3.7mm screw was completely unmovable and quickly stripped.

Scott A -

FYI there is a little pin on the cover that slots into the board. It is located near the top screw. I needed that to be inserted for the cover to go back down properly.

Seth Robinson -

For anyone who may have stripped a 3.7mm screw, Steam Support states it's M1.6 diameter with a 0.35 thread pitch and a 3mm length. Hopefully that'll help anyone trying to locate a replacement screw. Hoping iFixIt can make an internal screws kit as they're kinda hard to find the right one online.

Michael Dyer -

Did valve change the shield recently as my new 64gb deck has a black shield with no hidden screw.

David Alexander Hubbard -

Yes there's a new hardware revision out there that some people are getting. Consider stopping at this point and putting your deck back together if you have one of these new hardware revisions (the fan is quite different as well to the pictures) until iFixit has an updated repair guide.

Simon Meacham -

There are only 2 screws now, but be careful taking the shield off, because there are still thermal pads under it sticking it to a heat pipe.

Rudolfs Skurulis -

Are they m2 3.7mm screws? I am looking to replace mine because they instantly stripped and I had to remove them with needle nose pliers because they were over tightened.

Nick -

I need this piece, can someone help me where can I find it please?

rolando norica -

Passo 7

Rimuovi la protezione della scheda madre.
A seconda dell'età del tuo Steam Deck, questo schermo potrebbe aderire ai cuscinetti termici sottostanti.
Durante il rimontaggio, assicurati che il cavo della ventola sia sul lato dello schermo della scheda e non sia intrappolato sotto.

When putting back on, run a pick along the edge of the shield between the wires to make sure nothing is pinching and the wires are clear of the shield before screwing down.

Matt S -

During reassembly, ensure that the fan cable lays on the side of the board shield and isn't pinched underneath.

Are you saying that the fan cable should be positioned above the board shield instead of being pressed down by it? Just like the image shows, where it 'lays on the side of the board shield'?

James -

Necesito esta pieza la mía no la traía se ve que se la quitaro

rolando norica -

Passo 8

Prendi il cavo della batteria dalla sua linguetta e tiralo via dalla scheda madre per scollegarlo.
Altrimenti, puoi usare la punta piatta di uno spudger o un'unghia pulita per spingere delicatamente il connettore fuori dalla presa e poi disconnetterlo completamente a mano.

After fully reassembling my device I found that my battery was not showing any stats anymore. I couldn't start the device without being plugged in, however if I restarted it would stay on even if my power cable was detached. Battery showed 0%. It turns out I had not fully reinserted the battery cable at this stage during reassembly. MAKE SURE YOU PUSH IT ALL THE WAY BACK IN!

Michael Hoffmann -

Awesome thanks for this tip!

petergeranio -

It is helpful to lift up gently with a the tapered end of a spudger underneath the tucked-in portion of the battery cable, creating a bit of flex in the cable before pulling on the pull tab. I found that without doing so, the fabric pull-tab simply tore off of the cable under light-to-moderate force (the fabric itself ripped cleanly across, like a paper towel). Careful, gentle pressure with a spudger can be used to remove the plug by prying gently on the rear ridge of the plastic plug (not the wire!) if this happens.

Gene Eckser - 08/08/22

This is exactly what happened to me. Maybe it was a pull tab previously, mine was a ribbon cable that tore - captured the image here: https://www.ianwootten.co.uk/2022/11/22/...

Ian Wootten -

This was the best approach (and I feel safest for the wiring) for me. Mostly push pressure on the plastic ridge with some minor pull tension on the fabric.

Victor -

I found it less scary and easier to remove the battery connection by using a fingernail on the ridge and pushing it off the connector. I felt like pulling on the battery cable was too harsh.

montgomery mchargue -

Yeah, pulling cables like these is usually ill advice. They might be fine if it's a new device, but for old devices that have been sitting there for years, there's a good chance the connector has grown brittle and the cable might just come off separately (something I learnt the hard way).

skzm -

Upon plugging the battery back in, I found it easy to use two spudgers- one on each side- to pull/push the connector back into it's port. Be careful to not put any pressure on the battery wires themselves.

montgomery mchargue -

When reconnecting the battery cable, you'll know when it's inserted and power is restored, because the white LED will illuminate at the top of the Deck near the power button. You should be able to see it while you're reconnecting the battery cable

Michael Davis -

This is only true if you haven't put the deck into battery storage mode as directed.

Ean Manley -

Why not just let the battery discharge completely and then not have to disconnect it?

Jeffrey Martin -

Completely discharging a battery reduces its lifespan. It's completely unnecessary.

Stefan Camporese (CENTER) - 12/11/22

Because no lipo battery is ever completely discharged -- you would not be able to recharge it if it was. There will always be enough power left in it to cause damage if shorted even if it isn't charged enough to power up the device it's connected to.

David Cameron -

I would personally not recommend pulling the tab. It doesn’t apply force at the correct angle. You should revise these instructions to advise using a combination of pulling on the tab, and careful pressure on the connector towards the right of the mainboard to carefully work it out.

Using the pull tab alone could cause problems if not done extremely carefully.

William Winborne - 09/01/23

This part was wayyyyy easier than I anticipated and I worried for nothing because I used the ifixit spudger to push it out a bit and then I literally used my finger nail and was able to slide it right off. Dont be afraid, its not that difficult and its not that delicate to break if you do it patiently

Luis B - 10/01/23

I inserted the cable very firmly with a spunger, being careful not to press down too hard on the cables, and even tried redoing it, but I don't see any LED illumination. I am now unable to boot the deck into the boot manager. Any additional tips?

junefish -

What is the risk of not unplugging the battery? Just curious!

Nick Hight -

Once I was changing termal paste on my Windows based expensive tablet PC... And I was so scared to disconnect any cables (there was many of them), so I did it all with battery connected (I didn't even knew where is battery cable). When I tried to put board shield back... it didn't go right into needed place... and short circuit some small component. It flashed. That was the end of my repair. Dudies from repair service later told me that multiple components fried including CPU, so repairing is too hard. That's what can happen if you don't disconnect battery.

bugwarlabs - 02/06/23

To pull the battery out I used my spunger, but the batter had actually not space to be pulled out completely. I needed to lift the cable up with the spunger to get the cable fully out. When plugging it in again I had to press the battery down kinda hard so it would fit again. This was really scary and I recommand using two spunger as someone said above.

Dollique -

Does it have to be a clean fingernail?

Steven Murphy -

Passo 9

Il grilletto sinistro sarà alla tua destra mentre lavori sullo Steam Deck, poiché è appoggiato al contrario sulla superficie di lavoro.
I grilletti dello Steam Deck sono agganciati al loro posto con due piccoli perni sulla staffa del grilletto, che fa anche da cerniera.
Posiziona la parte piatta di uno spudger sul lato interno del gancio sinistro del grilletto.
Ruota il gancio del grilletto verso l'esterno e verso l'alto rispetto al perno per sganciarlo.
Durante il rimontaggio, aggancia per primo il perno più esterno. Una volta in posizione, premi sul grilletto per agganciare il perno più interno, facendo un udibile "click".
Controlla per assicurarti che la molla del grilletto sia allineata correttamente. Prova la funzionalità del grilletto prima di continuare il rimontaggio.

Passo 10

Rimuovi il grilletto sinistro.
Fai attenzione a non perdere la molla del grilletto. Si incastra con la pressione su un perno sul lato inferiore del grilletto.

In case the spring gets lost, it's 19 mm long with about 14 coils.

Claudiu Avram -

Passo 11

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le tre viti da 5,2 mm che tengono ferma la staffa del grilletto sinistro.

Passo 12

Rimuovi la staffa del grilletto sinistro.
I grilletti di ricambio richiedono la calibrazione per funzionare come previsto. Per calibrare i nuovi grilletti, segui questa guida di calibrazione.

If I only need to get to this part to check if I have to change the button or the daughterboard, do I HAVE to disconnect the battery ? The less I fiddle with things the more likely it is that I won’t break anything else…

Monsieur_Croco -

Passo 13

Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del cavo della levetta analogica.
Usa un paio di pinzette per far scorrere il cavo via dal suo connettore.
Prendi il cavo dalla linguetta blu e non dal cavo stesso.

Passo 14

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le tre viti da 5,2 mm che tengono ferma la levetta.
Durante il rimontaggio, potresti aver bisogno di tenere lo Steam Deck sollevato dalla superficie di lavoto così che non rimanga appoggiato sulla nuova levetta mentre stringi le viti.

Passo 15

Rimuovi la levetta analogica sinistra.

Passo 16

Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare l'aletta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo di interconnessione della scheda dei pulsanti.
Usa un paio di pinzette per far scorrere il cavo via dal suo connettore.
Prendi il cavo dalla linguetta blu e non dal cavo stesso.

Interconnect cable is along bottom of left board (on your right hand side). Ought to put a picture of where it is for easier reference.

David Boers -

Passo 17

Se alcuni connettori sono coperti da nastro adesivo, utilizza una pinzetta per rimuoverlo.
Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare le alette di bloccaggio del resto dei connettori ZIF della scheda dei pulsanti. Usa un paio di pinzette per far scorrere i cavi via dai loro connettori:
Scollega il cavo del D-pad.
Scollega il cavo della scheda del trackpad.
Scollega il cavo del trackpad.

Passo 18

Fai attenzione quando sollevi questo connettore: solleva il connettore stesso, non il suo alloggiamento.
Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il cavo del feedback aptico per scollegarlo.
In alternativa, puoi lasciare il sensore aptico collegato alla scheda dei pulsanti e girare la scheda sopra il bordo del guscio e fuori dal percorso.

Any advice on resoldering a disconnected haptics connector housing?

Will Rarich -

Passo 19

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per scollegare le quattro viti che tengono ferma la scheda dei pulsanti:
Tre viti da 5,2 mm
Una vite da 3,9 mm

during reassembly you will need to remember to line up board with 2 plastic mounts. pcb has good flex and can push down top to get top screw to line up flush

B P -

also the 2nd cable from the top (the one below shoulder button cable) should be pulled free before tightening your screws lol

B P -

Passo 20

Rimuovi la scheda dei pulsanti sinistra.
Tieni traccia del pulsante Steam e della sua membrana, poiché una volta che viene rimossa la scheda dei pulsanti destra non sono più fissati al loro posto.

This is useful, but how do I get a Left Button Board? Mine is damaged in the left bumper button micro switch and I need a replacement.

KaizerJV -

i thought i needed to replace L1 but i need to replace daughter board too. Valve has said they will supply left daughter boards they are just sold out rn

B P -

Where can I purchase a board

Charlie Trevino -

I need this board to fix my deck

Avery Jones -

que precio tiene esta pieza, se daño la de mi steam deck

jose cortes -

when will the button board be for sale?

Brett Archey -

L4 button not worked. When will the button board be for sale?

Racoon Family -

Will a button board be available for purchase soon?

Sean Gillum -

Please provide daughter board, l1 button stopped working. Pads lifted off the board.

Alistair Pullen -

Please sell a button board. L1 button stopped working. Seems to be a common issue.

Jimmy -

Passo 21

Usa un cacciavite a croce Phillips per rimuovere le due viti da 5,2 mm che tengono fermo il gruppo del pulsante dorsale sinistro.

Passo 22

Rimuovi il gruppo del pulsante dorsale sinistro.

When reassembling, you may need to force the bumper in a bit until you hear it click.

When I was first reassembling it, I had difficulty screwing the button boards back in. Additionally, my bumper and dpad felt like they were not sitting correctly, when fully reassembled. I believe this was because I didn't fully push in the left bumper assembly even though it looked like it was sitting in place correctly.

Aki Nicholakos - 23/11/22

During reassembly, align the lower right corner first. This protruding part on the right side must go under the clip of the shell.

CookiePolicyEnforcer - 29/12/23

Passo 23

Il pulsante si aggancia al suo supporto con delle linguette in plastica.
Solleva il pulsante dalla staffa per sganciare la linguetta di plastica più in alto.
Scollega il resto delle linguette di plastica per rimuovere il pulsante.
Stai attento a non perdere la molla del pulsante.
Durante il rimontaggio, aggancia il pulsante dorsale prima dal lato della molla, poi tira il gancio superiore verso l'alto e in posizione sulla staffa.

The replacement "Left Bumper Button" part (IF260-016-1) contains the assembly shown in step 22 - the button itself, spring, and plastic bracket it is attached to. The part does not include the daughter board that attaches to the rear face of the plastic bracket, which has the contacts for the d-pad and associated ribbon cable. This is correctly noted on the replacement parts page, and is not a surprise.

What is worth noting here is that the daughter board is a very thin, flexible substrate (~thickness of an index card), and is attached to the rear face of the plastic bracket with adhesive or glue. If only the button itself (and/or spring) replacement is needed, this is not an issue, as the NEW button/spring assembly may be removed from the NEW bracket (which has no daughter board) and attached to the OLD bracket that has the daughter board glued on.

If the bracket itself is broken/damaged, then there are missing steps, as the daughter board would have to be removed/re-glued to the new rear of the bracket.

Gene Eckser -

Conclusione

Per rimontare il dispositivo, segui le istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.

La riparazione non è andata secondo i piani? Prova delle soluzioni ai problemi di base, o chiedi alla nostra comunità Risposte Steam Deck per trovare aiuto.

Autore

Carsten Frauenheim

Membro da: 10/03/20

110753 Reputazione

12 commenti

All good! but you are missing the last step as you will need to replace the Dpad contacts and place them on the new bumper.

Corey Church -

I broke the Step 17 connector's support, with no preassure, just as a lever, any idea on replacing the DAF7ATH16F0 Rev F (last 0 may be a O) board? I will solder the broken connector but I don't think I will be able to, so small

Carquis -

This part is not available in Canada, I've seen your product advertised all over the tech industry, but this part is not available to ship to Canada, that's too bad, I would have purchased the repair kit along with this part, I guess I'm stuck with the rma process. I guess right to repair is still very broken.

FlyingToaster -

Any news on when this part will become available for purchase?

Marco C -

Just so others are aware, I haven't seen the Left button board or the Right button board available for purchase from Ifixit just yet. I just took apart my deck having ordered a left bumper replacement set thinking this would fix my issue, it will not. The issue is the switch itself that is attached to the Left Button Board

Antonio Cruz -

Just an fyi for those who need the tactile button replaced on the control board and not the button. You can order Nintendo switch joycon replacement buttons, and use them. You have to be pretty good at micro soldering to make it work. If you have questions, I might reply. I'm also thinking about offering my soldering as a service if any of you can't get it working. lmk

Kyle -

Any ETA on this Left Bumper Button Assembly part being in stock?

borealys -

I bought a used Steam Deck and noticed that the left bumper only works if I press it on the top, but not when I press it at the left side. There is no click and the press is not recognized. Can you tell me if the button or the board/micro switch is probably broken?

Michael Gehling -

Michael, it's hard to tell without disassembly. The bumper buttons can stick since they're so wide—and since you purchased it used, it could just be dirty.

Carsten Frauenheim -

Same exact thing with me. I barely used mine but have had it since week 1. I bought and replaced the assembly and button and still did not fix issue so I'm a bit lost with it.

chris G -

same here,problem is not solved after replacing L1

ERIC Wong -

Very clear instructions. I successfully replaced the L1 button because I have no repair experience, but it seems that there is a design problem with the L1 button.

ERIC Wong -