Sostituzione Scheda Madre iPhone XR

Scritto Da: iHelpU.Tech

Commenti: 89

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

Tempo Necessario

30 minuti - 2 ore

Introduzione

Strumenti

Ricambi

iPhone XR Logic Board

Passo 1

Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria del tuo iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni carica può prendere fuoco e/o esplodere se viene perforata accidentalmente.
Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare lo smontaggio.
Rimuovi le due viti Pentalobe lunghe 6,7 mm sul lato inferiore dell'iPhone.
L'apertura del display dell'iPhone comprometterà le sue tenute impermeabili. Procurati tenute di ricambio prima di procedere al passo successivo oppure stai attento ad evitare di esporre il tuo telefono ai liquidi se non sostituisci le guarnizioni.
C'è una guarnizione di gomma nera sotto la testa di ogni vite pentalobe. Per avere la massima protezione da polvere e liquidi, controlla le condizioni delle guarnizioni o sostituisci le viti durante il rimontaggio.

One of my gaskets was as shown in your second photo, the other had been worked into the threads (as if smeared) probably from the factory and was completely unusable.

In place of replacements (unsure of where to purchase) I just used a clear silicone caulking on both screws upon reassembly to offer at least some water seal. I wish these gaskets were included with the gasket waterproofing sealant kit!

Erica - 27/07/20

Is there any place to buy these screw gaskets? I haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere but one of mine was pretty much chewed up. Silicone should work but I’d prefer the oem solution.

Chilinh Nguyen -

I found a place on Amazon that sells them. It's cheapest to get a full set of screws than to get just these. $5-$6 USD.

J Olin -

Can it be dead?

Lulu navarro -

If I transfer the data from the old to the new battery with an icopy, don't I get an error message?

David Julian Krause -

how am i supposed to know if the battery is below 25% if the screen won't turn on?

Beth Jackson -

Passo 2

Se il tuo iPhone ha lo schermo in pezzi, applicando del nastro adesivo sulla superficie eviterai ulteriori rotture e la possibilità di farti male nel corso della riparazione.
Disponi strisce sovrapposte di nastro da pacchi sul display dell'iPhone fino a ricoprire tutta la superficie.
In questo modo impedirai la dispersione di schegge di vetro e assicurerai l'integrità strutturale del display quando lo forzerai per sollevarlo.
Indossa occhiali di sicurezza per proteggere gli occhi da schegge di vetro che potrebbero volare via nel corso della riparazione.
Se la rottura del vetro rende difficile far aderire una ventosa come indicato nei prossimi passi, prova a ripiegare un pezzo di nastro adesivo molto tenace (come il nastro americano) attorno a una maniglia e usalo al posto della ventosa per sollevare il display.

How to detect my Iphone what screen it is, OLED or LCD?

sabrihakulii - 08/07/20

It’s OLED. You can find the specs here, https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201296

When you find your phone, at the bottom of the description click on, See the tech specs…

mcr4u2 - 23/08/20

The included suction cups were stiff and worthless. They would not lift the screen. Also, I tried every type of tape on the screen to help the suction cups stick without success. Heavy duty suction cups were for my bathroom also failed. However, I had an old GoPro mount with some preapplied double sided 3M VSB tape and stuck that on the screen near the bottom. Magic! This method had the added bonus of being able to use a GoPro attachment as a handle to lift the screen, and propped up the screen like a kickstand in step 12.

Tawan Khamapirad - 15/12/20

Very cool! Thanks

Antonio -

My screen was pretty stuck… would not budge. Heated, super glued the suction cup, tried gorilla tape. Ended up doing the GoPro mount with 3M VSB tape method mentioned. Worked great. That 3M tape is the bomb.

Rich Wachtel - 03/05/21

The included suction cup took a few tries but ended up working for me.

charlotte -

If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003 thick goes right in. Work your way up until you can get the pick or supplied pry tool in.

William Olstad -

where can I buy 3M VSB plis!!

gerardo artigas cuellar -

3M VHB tape is at auto stores and other big box stores, or online.

nicO -

I used the tweezers that came with the replacement screen and jammed one of them into the glass and that eventually worked. Heating with a blow dryer is also important. The suction cup was helpful in loosening the adhesive for sure, but just not enough to get the display to come out.

J Olin -

Passo 3

Se lo schermo del tuo iPhone è rotto, blocca il vetro con del nastro adesivo per contenere ulteriori danni e prevenire lesioni durante la riparazione.
Posiziona strisce sovrapposte di nastro adesivo trasparente sullo schermo dell'iPhone fino a coprire l'intera superficie del display.
Indossa occhiali di protezione per proteggere i tuoi occhi da eventuali frammenti di vetro che potrebbero essere liberati durante la riparazione.
Se non riesci a far aderire la ventosa nei prossimi passaggi, piega un pezzo resistente di nastro (come il nastro adesivo americano) come un manico e solleva lo schermo con quello.
Se tutto il resto fallisce, puoi utilizzare della super colla per incollare la ventosa allo schermo.

This looks like a repeat of Step 3.

GenjideGaulle -

Passo 4

I prossimi tre passaggi ti spiegherano come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, uno strumento che abbiamo studiato per rendere la procedura di apertura più facile. Se non stai usando l'Anti-Clamp, salta questi tre passaggi e continua con un metodo alternativo.
Per istruzioni complete su come utilizzare l'Anti-Clamp, dai un'occhiata a questa guida.
Tira indietro la manopola blu per sbloccare i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.
Fai scorrere i bracci oltre il bordo sinistro o destro dell'iPhone.
Posiziona le ventose vicino al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone, una sul davanti e una sul retro.
Premi insieme le ventose per fargli fare presa sull'area desiderata.
Se trovi che la superficie del tuo dispositivo sia così scivolosa da impedire all'Anti-Clamp di aderire, puoi usare del nastro adesivo per formare una superficie più aderente.

Passo 5

Tira in avanti la maniglia blu per bloccare i bracci.
Gira la maniglia in senso orario di 360 gradi o finché le ventose iniziano a allungarsi.
Assicurati che le ventose rimangano allineate tra loro. Se iniziano a scivolare fuori dall'allineamento, allenta leggermente le ventose e riallinea i bracci.

Passo 6

Scalda un iOpener e infilalo tra i bracci dell'Anti-Clamp.
Puoi anche utilizzare un asciugacapelli, una pistola termica o una piastra riscaldante, ma il calore eccessivo può danneggiare lo schermo e/o la batteria interna, quindi procedi con cautela.
Piega l'iOpener in modo che si appoggi sul bordo inferiore dell'iPhone.
Aspetta un minuto per dare all'adesivo la possibilità di scollarsi e creare un'apertura.
Inserisci un plettro di apertura sotto lo schermo e la cornice di plastica, evitando di toccare lo schermo stesso.
Se l'Anti-Clamp non crea un'apertura sufficiente, applica più calore all'area e gira la manopola di un quarto di giro.
Non girare la manopola di più di un quarto di giro alla volta e attendi un minuto tra ogni rotazione. Lascia che l'Anti-Clamp e il tempo facciano il lavoro per te.
Salta i prossimi tre passaggi.

Please UPDATE THIS STEP to say 'insert the opening pick underneath the PLASTIC FRAME OF THE SCREEN' and not the screen. Way too many people are taking this as the way to do it then posting their screen looks different when it's open when they've actually removed the screen leaving the frame in place. It's not rocket science.

[deleted] -

Thanks for the suggestion! We updated this step to clarify that.

Arthur Shi -

Passo 7

Il riscaldamento del bordo inferiore dell'iPhone aiuta ad ammorbidire l'adesivo che blocca il display, semplificando l'apertura.
Usa un asciugacapelli oppure prepara un iOpener e applicalo per circa un minuto al bordo inferiore dell'iPhone per ammorbidire l'adesivo sottostante.

An alternative to the Iopener or heat gun is to heat water to EXACTLY 80 degrees F (cooking thermometer is great for this) and pour into a reinforced ziplock type bag. Leave the bag on the screen, but be sure that none of the hot water rests on the zipper portion, as the water is hot enough to soften that seal and leak out on to your device! This meat had is my personal favorite as the heat is distributed very equally and precisely as compared to a heat gun, but is more accessible than the Iopener.

Colin Wylie - 10/01/21

When using an iOpener, rest the glossy (transparent) side on the phone so it contacts the phone and conducts heat easily

Afiq -

Passo 8

Se usi una sola ventosa, applicala sul bordo inferiore del telefono evitando la parte curva del vetro.

Passo 9

Tira la ventosa applicando una trazione forte e costante fino a creare una piccola fessura tra il pannello frontale e il case posteriore.
Inserisci un plettro di apertura sotto lo schermo e la cornice di plastica, evitando di toccare direttamente lo schermo.
L'adesivo impermeabile che tiene in posizione il display è molto tenace. La creazione di questa fessura iniziale richiede l'applicazione di una forza piuttosto elevata. Se hai difficoltà nell'aprire una fessura, applica altro calore e muovi lo schermo su e giù per indebolire l'adesivo finché non riesci a infilare lo strumento di apertura.

Passo 10

Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura attorno all'angolo inferiore sinistro e lungo il bordo sinistro dell'iPhone per tagliare l'adesivo che tiene in posizione il display.
Non inserire il plettro di apertura per più di 3 mm, altrimenti potresti danneggiare i componenti interni.

I think it's important to note that depending on how a screen was damaged, make sure to insert the pic under the black bezel directly under the actual screen. This bezel is a frame around the digitizer. I unknowingly inserted the pic between the bezel and the screen, and separated them both. I did this all the way around the phone. So I basically had to struggle to keep together two different sections of the display assembly because of this mishap, until I removed all the ribbon connectors. It made things much more difficult.

Dave - 15/07/22

An edit to my above comment: by digitzer, I mean the LCD shield. My apologies.

Dave -

Passo 11

Sul bordo destro del tuo iPhone ci sono cavi delicati. Non inserire il plettro di apertura nelle zone indicate, altrimenti potresti danneggiare i cavi.

Passo 12

Inserisci nuovamente il tuo attrezzo nell'angolo inferiore destro dell'iPhone e fallo scorrere lungo il lato destro del telefono per separare l'adesivo.
Non inserire il plettro per più di 3 mm, poiché potresti danneggiare i cavi dello schermo.

My replacement screen for the XR has a black rim but it looks pink. Is that normal?

Irwin Cantor -

You can use some Isopropyl alcohol in a syringe with a thin needle to soften even more the adhesive around the screen. But be careful so as not to overdo it. Just a few drops. It will become more easier to remove the screen.

Dan Brock -

Step 11 says not to insert your pick around the right side to avoid damaging cables, then Step 12 says to insert it on the right side. Help, I'm confused!

ingwis -

Hi there!

Thank you for the feedback! The wording in step 11 was definitely ambiguous, so we have changed it! You only need to avoid the marked spots rather than the right edge.

Alex Diaz-Kokaisl -

Passo 13

Il bordo superiore del display è fissato sia con la colla sia con delle clip.
Fai scorrere il plettro sotto il bordo superiore del display, mentre muovi oppure scuoti delicatamente il display verso il basso, in direzione della porta Lightning.
Se ci metterai troppa forza, le clip si romperanno. Lavora con cautela e pazienza.
Non inserire il plettro di apertura per più di 3 mm, altrimenti potresti danneggiare l'insieme dei sensori del pannello frontale.
Fai scorrere il plettro nell'angolo opposto e taglia tutto l'adesivo rimanente.

Passo 14

Tira la linguetta sulla ventosa per staccarla dal pannello frontale.

Passo 15

Apri l'iPhone sollevando il display dal lato sinistro, come per sollevare la copertina posteriore di un libro.
Non cercare di staccare del tutto il display, perché questo è ancora connesso alla scheda logica dell'iPhone da diversi fragili cavi piatti.
Appoggia il display contro qualche tipo di supporto per mantenerlo aperto mentre lavori sul telefono.
Durante il rimontaggio poni il display in posizione, allinea le clip lungo il bordo superiore e premi delicatamente il bordo stesso per metterlo in posizione prima di reinserire tutto il display. Se non si incastra facilmente fino al clic, controlla le clip lungo il perimetro del display per assicurarti che non si siano deformate.

sure looks like the "hinge" is on the right hand side to me.. not left...!

Doug Trout -

If you leave the suction cup attached to the screen during the “hinging” process, it makes for a very handy holder for the screen until it’s completely detached.

Richard Deubler -

What about the sticky black adhesive clinging to the inside of the case?

Ronald -

Passo 16

Rimuovi le tre viti tri-wing Y000 da 1,2 mm che fissano la staffa di protezione del connettore della batteria.
Rimuovi la staffa.
Nel corso dell'intera procedura, tieni traccia di ogni vite per essere sicuro che vada esattamente nel posto da cui l'hai tolta per evitare di danneggiare l'iPhone.
Nel corso del rimontaggio, è una buona idea accendere l'iPhone e testare tutte le funzionalità prima di sigillare nuovamente il display. Ricordati poi di spegnere completamente l'iPhone prima di continuare con il lavoro.

Definitely make sure all three lobes of your tool are aligned before use (it’s a little harder to tell with this style of bit) and apply even and adequate pressure to ensure it grabs as you spin the driver to prevent disfiguring the lobes/slot of the screw head.

Unfortunately my Y000 tool was perhaps not the best fit (tolerance a bit off) in these screws and I ended up stripping out the heads of all three of these. I started to panic but after I sanded the tip of my Y000 bit down a little with super fine grit (1000CW-C) sand paper to flatten the domed tip (visible with macro lens) and give it a bit more bite I was able to remove and reinstall without issue—in fact I had to remove and install them twice since I forgot my adhesive tape during reassembly, so the screws survived and the sanded bit worked.

Erica - 27/07/20

+1 to above comment. I bought a cheap kit from Amazon and the Y000 screw driver is not good for this job. I’m concerned that I may have disfigured the heads and i type this comment in the midst of my fix :D Be gentle and assess if you can remove at least one screw with your driver before rummaging through all three and other similar screws holding display connector as well.

Shan Potti - 24/12/20

Update to above comment. I got hold of a Y0.8 screw driver bit (lucky to find an ORIA screw driver kit in my office) and it works like wonders :) Now back to work…

Shan Potti - 24/12/20

Passo 17

Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo.
Cerca di non danneggiare la guarnizione nera in silicone che circonda questo e altri connettori della scheda. Questi sigilli assicurano una protezione supplementare contro l'ingresso di acqua e polvere.
Piega lievemente il connettore per allontanarlo dalla scheda logica e impedire che possa fare accidentalmente contatto con lo zoccolo e quindi alimentare il telefono nel corso della riparazione.

Passo 18

Rimuovi le tre viti tri-wing Y000 da 1,2 mm che bloccano la staffa del connettore del display.
Rimuovi la staffa.

What if the screw is damaged and you can’t get one out?

Kashawn Benjamin -

Passo 19

Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare e disconnettere il cavo del digitizer.
Per riconnettere i connettori a pressione come questo, allineali con cura e premili da un lato finché non senti il clic di bloccaggio, quindi ripeti l'operazione dall'altro lato. Non premere in centro. Se il connettore non è perfettamente allineato, i pin possono piegarsi, provocando danni permanenti.
Se una parte qualsiasi dello schermo non risponde al tocco dopo la riparazione, scollega la batteria e poi rimetti al suo posto questo connettore, accertandoti che scatti perfettamente in posizione e che nello zoccolo non ci siano polvere o altri tipi di ostruzione.

Passo 20

Usa la punta di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del cavo del display.

The new display cable isn’t snapping in but I was just able to snap in the old one. Did I break the new one somehow?

Andrew Pierson - 12/05/20

Same it is really frustrating, just keeps slipping up and its bound to get damaged

Daniel Maldonado - 30/04/21

Passo 21

Rimuovi le cinque viti che fissano sul case posteriore la staffa del connettore della scheda logica.
Una vite a croce Phillips da 1,3 mm
Una vite a croce Phillips da 1,5 mm
Tre viti tri-wing Y000 da 1,2 mm
Stai attento a non perdere la staffa più piccola attaccata al bordo. È tenuta in posizione tramite una piccola clip ed è facile che che si separi accidentalmente dalla staffa più grande.

Phillips screw 1.3 mm on last step is not working. The small clipped bracket has been damaged. This screw perhaps should be the first, before 1.2 Y000. - To be confirmed by others.

Dmitri - 25/08/19

I’m not sure it makes much if any difference, but we went ahead and swapped the order for you guys. Thanks for your comments!

Jeff Suovanen - 02/09/19

I just repaired another XR, and you are right! It doesn’t make any differnerce in the order these screws come out. I still damaged this fragile piece. As I work on more of these, I’ll figure out a way to remove this screw without damaging the clip. For now everyone, just use extra caution when removing the 1.3mm phillips screw! Thanks Jeff

fabianowens - 13/09/19

I’ve now done at least 6 of these so far and I have fairly consistent good results by taking the 2 Philips head screws out first, then doing the Y screws.

Stow - 08/04/21

Is this piece important for the repair if broken? I have broken it on a home repair. What is it used for? Is it a grounding connection or is it completely unimportant. More information needed please

Squishy Horses - 01/07/20

I’m wondering that too. Is this piece important?

Phillip Gross - 22/12/20

My clip broke too! on iphone XR. Any word on necessity?

Beth Buer - 02/07/20

I can confirm that taking out the 1.3 mm screw first then the 1.5 mm screw works the best. If done correctly, you should be able to to remove the rest of the screws and pull the panel off with the clip still attached to the panel. For reassembly, start with the 1.5 mm screw then the 1.3 mm screw.

Carlos Oulman - 11/09/20

I don’t remove the small screw at all. I just slide out the metal cover plate and slide back in to reassemble.

Kyaw-Zin Win - 25/09/20

this is what i have done as well. Care is still needed to avoid damaging this part. However, it is seemingly far less prone to damage or loss and thus less risky for this repair process.

Justin Parsons -

I too broke this shield. In looking over this problem I believe it’s best to loosen, but not remove, either screw first then the other. To be clear, loosen the red or yellow screw but only just to break it free, then the second screw. Then remove both and the others and the shield should remain in one piece. I put it back with the broken part (on the red screw) and made sure the two are in contact so there’s conductivity as these shields serve a purpose other than just holding in connectors. My phone works fine with this fix.

pgrobin - 29/11/20

Is this small bracket important if broken??

Phillip Gross - 22/12/20

Mine is broken

Easy Repair - 02/01/21

Mine is broken and my apple pay doesn’t work. Something to do with NFC antenna this little clip??

Marcos Fernández - 08/01/21

I'm guessing so. I replaced a screen on a phone I bought from a friend. I noticed this bracket was broken when I disassembled the phone but didn't think much of it. When I reassembled it my NFC also does not work. Bummer. A lot of people in these comments have asked if it is crucial that this bracket be connected. Can someone from iFixit or other please reply to those comments?

Larry Jorgenson -

On the 1.3 mm screw I actually chose not to remove it. I broke it loose then used the tip of the spudger to simply twist the bracket out of the way, with the screw still attached. Then I could remove the larger bracket.

mpalma - 16/05/21

Kyaw-Zin is right because the shield contains of two tin parts. But there is another option:

1. Unscrew the yellow and orange screws first.

2. Lift the shield gently that it can turn about 20° anticlockwise.

3. Open the red screw and let the shield turn with it the first degrees.

Daniel Brehm - 26/05/21

The first time I did this repair, I didn’t see the comments ahead of time and broke the bracket, even removing the 1.3mm screws first. The second time I did the repair, I was prepared and being extra careful, but the simple act of turning the 1.3mm screw head was enough to break it. If I ever have to do this repair again, I’ll just leave the screw in and try to slide the plate out with the screw (and bracket, hopefully) still in tact, as per Kyaw-Zin Win.

Debbie Thompson -

None of the screw driver bits I got fits the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws. How do I remove them?

Jonatious Joseph Jawahar -

Same issue as above. The bits provided in the kit do not work with the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws

Graham Hammell -

Further to above comment about bit not working. Had to go and purchase another PH000 from Home Depot and that worked

Graham Hammell -

I’ve broken that little bracket attached to the red screw. Is it important and can I get a replacement????? Thanks all

steve.arfa -

Broken the clip. Is this important??

kyledrumtutor -

Yikes, broke mine too. Oh god. Think perhaps the delicate 1.3mm should come out first when everything else is secure...

Ronald -

Don't remove the 1.3 Phillips screw! Twisting this screw will break the smaller bracket that is clipped to the larger. Remove all the other screws. Block the smaller bracket from moving as you gently slide the larger bracket horizontally toward the battery until free. The smaller bracket can stay in place while the screen is replaced. When reassembling, support the small bracket by backing with a spudger or similar tool.

doug68242 -

I just broke the smaller bracket also :( I didn´t notice these comments until now :(

It looks like part of the antenna for NFC, as all except NFC works on my iPhone now.

It should be repairable using some wire wrap wire, either twisted around the two screws that connected that part of the bracket (or soldered in place). I will try and report back if it works.

Richard Croyle -

Success!! I managed to re-construct the small arm of the bracket by screwing the 1.3mm screw back in with some 0.3mm enamel wire soldered into what was left of the small bracket arm on the screw, then the other end of the enamel wire I wrapped under the 1.5 wire screw's head (enamel exposed to bare metal), then screwed both screws down. also I lifted up the small metal arm with a screw driver (to make sure it reconnects with the display grounding square) ..and NFC worked again (slightly different antenna pattern mind (need to place cards slightly higher up the rear of the phone). Anyway works again :)

Richard Croyle - 16/12/23

Passo 22

Usa la punta di uno spudger per staccare dal suo zoccolo il connettore del gruppo sensori frontali.

During testing, make sure your proximity sensor is not on upside down, as it’s easy to connect upside down. Your phone will boot loop if it’s on incorrectly.

Tristan England - 25/10/19

Passo 23

Rimuovi il gruppo display.
In fase di rimontaggio, fermati qui se vuoi sostituire l'adesivo impermeabile attorno ai bordi del display.

unclear if this is where screen removal ends

Daniel Maldonado - 30/04/21

I had the same question, but the answer is yes. Steps 21-30 are removing parts from the original screen that need to be reattached onto the new screen. You are no longer working inside the frame, but on the back of the screen itself.

amclean78 -

I apologize for missing these comments initially, but yes that’s correct, the screen is removed now and the rest of the guide goes on to other parts, either in the phone or on the back of the screen. Good luck with the repair!

Adam O'Camb -

The alternate method of removing the battery should be highlighted as a standard option. There is so much more work and potential to damage the parts than if you left them in place and carefully with plenty of heat remove the battery. I so wish I had seen this before!

Martin Kappeyne -

Passo 24

Rimuovi le due viti che fissano la cover della fotocamera posteriore:
Una vite a croce Phillips da 1,6 mm
Un distanziale a vite da 2,4 mm
Per rimuovere distanziali a vite l'ideale è usare una punta per distanziali iPhone e l'impugnatura cacciavite.
In caso di emergenza, può bastare un piccolo cacciavite a taglio, ma è necessaria un'estrema cautela per evitare che scivolando possa danneggiare i componenti circostanti.

if your camera is ok you can skip removing it - go to step 26

Stow - 12/01/21

you will need to do step 23 though…..

Stow - 12/01/21

Passo 25

Alza la cover della fotocamera e rimuovila.

Passo 26

Usa uno strumento di apertura oppure un'unghia per scollegare il connettore del cavo della fotocamera facendo leva per alzarlo direttamente dal suo zoccolo.

Passo 27

Inserisci la punta di uno spudger nell'angolo superiore sinistro della fotocamera, tra il gruppo fotocamera e la scocca dell'iPhone.
Fai leva con delicatezza per estrarre la fotocamera dall'iPhone.

Passo 28

Rimuovi la fotocamera posteriore.

Passo 29

Utilizzare uno strumento per rimuovere il vassoio della SIM.

Passo 30

Scollega i restanti connettori del pannello anteriore
Ci sono 5 FPC vicino alla fotocamera iSight.
Ci sono 4 FPC vicino al lettore SIM.
Assicurati di non esercitare troppa pressione quando scolleghi l'FPC per evitare di danneggiare la scheda madre,

Passo 31

Rimuovi le seguenti viti:
Vite distanziatrice da 2,9 mm
Philips #000 da 1,5 mm
Philips da #000 1,6 mm
Rimuovi la staffa di messa a terra
Estrai il lettore SIM
Assicurati di spingere l'asta nera di spinta della SIM indietro nell'alloggiamento posteriore prima di tentare di rimuovere il lettore della SIM.

Passo 32

Rimuovi le seguenti viti:
Vite distanziatrice da 2,9 mm
Vite distanziatrice da 2,8 mm
Philips #000 da 1,8 mm

Passo 33

Estrai la scheda madre dall'alloggiamento posteriore.

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

iHelpU.Tech

Membro da: 02/08/17

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19 commenti

if I replace the logic board will it remove a iCloud lock??????

caleb alvarez - 14/10/19

TL;DR: Yes, it should but…

All of the phone’s memory is stored on the NAND flash memory with is soldered to the logic board. Replacing the iCloud-locked logic board with a logic board from a phone that does not have an iCloud lock will technically remove the lock.

A terrible analogy would be like if you had had a tumor (iCloud lock) in your brain (MLB) so your surgeon (you, the technician) performed a brain transplant. Replacing the brain would indeed get rid of the tumor. However, your body (The phone’s housing) would just become the person of whose brain was transplanted into your body.

The only true way to remove an iCloud lock is to obtain the Apple ID & Apple ID password of the original owner.

You just have to try to find a good logic board and trust that the seller is legit. (Easier said than done)

This guide was more intended for those that are attempting micro-soldering repairs. However, you can use the guide for whatever you need. :-)

iHelpU.Tech - 14/10/19

If i chanfe the logic board do i also have to swap the facial scan like the fingerprints on the prior iphone or all i gotta do is swap the boards

Ahmad Zia - 14/12/19

Great question! From what I’ve experienced, the Face ID hardware is similar to touch ID hardware in that it is tied to the phone’s logic board. However, FaceID does seem a little more forgiving. The phone I’m currently using is an iPhone X that was severely damaged. I bought it off a customer and installed a new screen but Face ID did not work. A couple months later, I was using an app that made use of face ID hardware for facial recognition and mapping. I thought it wouldn’t work since FaceID wasn’t working on my phone. To my surprise, it worked just fine. I then tried setting up FaceID and it was able to activate and capture my face.

If you’re looking to refurbish a phone, assume FaceId won’t work without the original hardware. However, your milage may vary.

iHelpU.Tech - 16/12/19

Does the camera work even the face I'd doesn't work ?

Reynaldi Eko - 12/01/20

From what I’ve seen, yes it does. However, your milage may vary. Make sure you check to see if your cameras are good before you replacing/repairing the logic board. I’ve already had an iPhone XS where the cameras and flashlight stopped working. Replacing the iSight camera seemed to do the trick.

iHelpU.Tech - 12/01/20

Front camera will function as normal, but no Face ID

Richard -

Hello.. I have a question,

I have been done replace the logicboard, when I test camera with potrait mode front camera doesn’t working properly, the picture is very dark and when I move my body or face the my picture in camera it’s very slow and lagy. It’s is normal issue sir if we swap the logicboard ???

And I found one issue again with the battery it show “Important Battery Message” and unable to verify, the battery health show service.

How to solve this issue sir? Many Thanks Before

Supri Apriyanto - 16/01/20

Article regarding the battery: https://www.ifixit.com/News/apple-is-loc...

Have you tried reinstalling iOS? Be sure to backup your data first, as you will probably have to erase the phone. Let me know if that helps.

iHelpU.Tech - 16/01/20

What could be the issue on my XR the restarts randomly… It takes several attempts to boot normally. But when I opened any app, the phone shuts down again. There are panic-full logs in the data analytics logs. Factory reset, IOS restoration and DFU did not help. Any idea? TIA

Noel de Chavez - 07/05/20

Unfortunately, it would be a shorter list if I told you what was unlikely to cause the iPhone XR to randomly reboot. Hopefully you have a computer or iCloud backup of the phone because I would suggest getting a different phone or talking to Apple. If data is needed, talk to a data recovery specialist like iPad Rehab. (Don’t expect Apple to even attempt to save your data).

iHelpU.Tech - 02/06/20

Hello, thanks for this helpful guide! Where can I get a replacement logic board?

Khawm Mung - 30/05/20

I’m glad you found the guide helpful! There’s no magic shop to order a replacement logic board. If you can’t find one pre-vetted from a site like iFixit, you’ll have to try your luck with a resale site like eBay. I wish Apple was more open to repair and sold parts direct to consumers and shops. Then again, I also wish I had a pile of gold lol.

iHelpU.Tech - 02/06/20

How do you distinguish different types of strews?

Henry Liu - 06/06/20

The different types of screws are denoted by color for each step. The size in millimeters give you the length of the screw measured by a digital caliper. Screw type is distinguished by the head of the screw. (Phillips #000)

iHelpU.Tech - 09/06/20

@ipoint The guide was made to show how to remove the logic board, in which is accomplishes. It was mainly intended as a reference for anyone wanting to fix the board itself via micro soldering. Feel free to use this guide to make your own guide on swapping FaceID hardware. It seems like you could use the reputation points anyways.

iHelpU.Tech - 09/06/20

These guides are awesome! Just a little comment on terminology…

In step 27 - “Disconnect the remaining Front Panel Connectors.” The front panel has already been removed. FPC stands for Flexible Plastic Connectors. An alternative acronym is FFC which stands for Flat Flexible Connectors.

brandyballoon -

where i can get logic board trusted quality

SOFIAN OU-sous -

Do you Have motherboard for iphone xr and iphone 7 and iphone xs

Kagwa Samuel (Sam) -