Sostituzione altoparlante iPhone 5c

Scritto Da: Sam Goldheart
  • Commenti: 53
Sostituzione altoparlante iPhone 5c

Difficoltà

Facile

Passi

22

Tempo Necessario

Nessuna stima

Introduzione

Sostituisci l'altoparlante rotto di un iPhone 5c per restaurare la funzione vivavoce.

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    • Se il vetro del tuo display è crepato, l'applicazione di nastro adesivo sullo schermo blocca ulteriori rotture e previene possibili infortuni.

    • Disponi strisce sovrapposte di nastro adesivo trasparente sul display dell'iPhone fino a coprire l'intera superficie.

    • In questo modo eviterai la dispersione di schegge di vetro e assicurerai l'integrità strutturale dello schermo quando staccherai e solleverai il display.

    • Indossa occhiali di sicurezza per proteggere gli occhi da schegge di vetro che potrebbero saltar via durante la riparazione.

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    • Prima di iniziare, scarica la batteria dell'iPhone sotto il 25%. Una batteria al litio-ioni può incendiarsi e/o esplodere se viene forata accidentalmente.

    • Spegni il tuo iPhone prima di iniziare a smontarlo.

    • Rimuovi le due viti pentalobe P2 da 3,8 mm da ciascun lato del connettore Lightning.

    to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

    V. Jones -

    I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.

    Jim Thomas -

    My iPhone 5c has P1 Pentalobe screws, not P2. This guide caused me to buy wrong tools so I thought I would share my experience. Perhaps they vary.

    Cody Craven -

    @codycraven01 These guides are created using iFixit tools, and P2 is definitely the correct driver. If you’re using tools you bought somewhere else, then yes, results may vary.

    Jeff Suovanen -

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    • I prossimi due passi mostrano l'uso dell'iSclack, un ottimo strumento per aprire l'iPhone 5c. Lo raccomandiamo a chiunque debba eseguire più di una riparazione su iPhone 5, 5s o 5c. Se non intendi usare l'iSclack , salta al passo 5.

    • Chiudi l'impugnatura dell'iSclack per aprire le ganasce a ventosa.

    • Disponi la parte inferiore dell'iPhone tra le ventose, contro il sensore di profondità in plastica.

    • La ventosa superiore deve trovarsi appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Apri l'impugnatura per chiudere le ganasce dell'iSclack. Centra bene le ventose e premile con decisione sulle due facce dell'iPhone.

    I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

    V. Jones -

    Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!

    Michael W Mason -

    @mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.

    Jeff Suovanen -

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    • Impugnando saldamente l'iPhone, chiudi le maniglie dell'iSclack per allontanare tra loro le ventose e tirare via il pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

    • L'iSclack è progettato per aprire in sicurezza il tuo iPhone giusto quanto basta a separare le parti senza danneggiare alcun cavo.

    • Stacca dall'iPhone le due ventose.

    • Salta i prossimi tre passi e continua con il passo 8.

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    • Premi una ventosa sullo schermo, appena sopra il pulsante home.

    • Accertati che la ventosa sia interamente posizionata sullo schermo e quindi garantisca la massima tenuta.

    cool i diden't now

    Ben Lewis Murray Dyne -

    very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

    bromanmoon -

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    • Assicurati che la ventosa sia ben attaccata al gruppo del pannello frontale.

    • Mentre tieni giù il telefono con una mano, tira la ventosa per separare lievemente il gruppo del pannello anteriore dal case posteriore.

    • Fai con calma e applica una forza decisa e costante. Il gruppo display è attaccato più saldamente rispetto alla maggior parte dei dispositivi.

    • Con uno strumento di apertura in plastica, inizia a spingere delicatamente verso il basso il case posteriore, separandolo dal gruppo display, mentre continui a tirare con la ventosa.

    • Ci sono diverse clip che agganciano il gruppo del pannello frontale al case posteriore. Per liberare il gruppo display puoi usare una combinazione di ventosa e strumento di apertura in plastica.

    Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

    Dan -

    Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

    duston -

    The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

    V. Jones -

    This part ended up being really easy for me. I applied the suction cup just as the picture shows and pulled slowly almost straight up; the screen came off very easily and I didn’t even need to use a plastic prying tool. Not sure why it worked so well but I’m glad!

    Renee -

    I did it with a guitar pick and no suction cup.

    andrew -

    Be sure not to use metal pry tools as they may crack the plastic.

    guardian10 -

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    • Tira la sporgenza in plastica per staccare la ventosa.

    • Rimuovi la ventosa dal gruppo display.

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    • Solleva il lato del pulsante home del gruppo display per accedere ai connettori vicino alla parte alta del telefono.

    • Apri il display a un angolo di circa 90° e appoggialo a qualche cosa di adatto a tenerlo aperto mentre lavori sull'iPhone.

    • Se non hai altro, puoi usare una lattina chiusa per tenere su il display.

    • Aggiungi un elastico per tenere saldamente il display mentre lavori sul telefono. In questo modo eviterai di sforzare involontariamente i cavi del display.

    Using a can works really well!

    Amy Dachs -

    I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!

    Travis Henrick -

    What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?

    sunnydsunset2014 -

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    • Rimuovi le due viti Phillips #000 da 1,6 mm che fissano il connettore metallico della batteria alla scheda logica.

    These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

    Joe Shirghio -

    I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

    Michael Allen -

    Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.

    Zachariah Sampson -

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    • Rimuovi dall'iPhone la staffa metallica del connettore della batteria.

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    • Usa uno spudger oppure un'unghia per staccare delicatamente il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolino sulla scheda logica.

    • Stai molto attento a far leva solo sul connettore della batteria e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica. Premendo sullo zoccolo del connettore o sulla scheda logica, potresti distruggere lo zoccolo o danneggiare i componenti vicini della scheda.

    Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

    Jona Wolff -

    Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

    Peter Hill -

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    • Rimuovi le seguenti viti Phillips #000 che fissano la staffa del cavo del gruppo pannello frontale alla scheda logica:

    • Due viti da 1,3 mm

    • Una vite da 1,7 mm

    • Una vite da 3,25 mm

    • È particolarmente importante in questo passo tenere traccia delle viti in vista del riassemblaggio. Utilizzare le viti da 3,25 mm o quella da 1,7 mm nel foro inferiore destro provocherebbe un danno significativo alla scheda logica, impedendo al telefono di avviarsi regolarmente.

    • Stai attento a non forzare in fase di avvitamento. Se le viti non rientrano facilmente nella loro sede, potrebbero essere della misura sbagliata, quindi evita di forzarle.

    I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

    jacobstevens -

    I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

    Fredrick Apel -

    I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

    K Jansen -

    good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

    travismlive -

    When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

    Chandler Perez -

    no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.

    akronymus -

    did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

    matt -

    Agree. Step 12 is unnecessary if one is extremely careful.

    Christopher -

    *warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

    akronymus -

    is it necessary to remove these screws in order to remove the battery?

    Ali Ahsan -

    Hi Ali,

    You can choose to not remove those screws and still be able to take the battery out. Be very careful supporting the display, or you may tear the display cables and damage your screen.

    Arthur Shi -

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    • Rimuovi dalla scheda logica la staffa del cavo del gruppo pannello frontale.

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    • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica oppure un'unghia per staccare il connettore della fotocamera anteriore e del cavo sensore.

    • Accertati di far leva soltanto sul connettore e non sul suo zoccolo sulla scheda logica.

    You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.

    In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.

    domarius -

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    • Prima di disconnettere o riconnettere i cavi in questo passo, accertati che la batteria sia scollegata.

    • Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica oppure un'unghia per staccare il connettore del cavo dell'LCD.

    • I connettori dell'LCD e del digitizer sono raggruppati insieme sullo stesso cavo, quindi il distacco del connettore LCD dovrebbe scollegare entrambi i connettori. Controlla bene che entrambi i cavi siano completamente staccati prima di rimuovere il display.

    • Nel rimontaggio, il cavo dell'LCD può saltare fuori dal suo connettore. Uno schermo bianco oppure delle linee bianche sul display possono essere causate da una cattiva connessione. In questo caso, riconnetti il cavo ed esegui un ciclo di accensione. Il miglior modo di eseguire un ciclo di accensione è di staccare e poi riconnettere la batteria.

    I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

    Harold Wallner -

    This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

    vince -

    Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

    terrymccallum -

    There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

    Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

    Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

    Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

    Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

    Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

    Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

    piet -

    Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

    duston -

    When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

    The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

    jimbbo -

    If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

    iBroke -

    I replaced the display assembly to resolve an issue with the phone not responding to any touch input. I assumed it was a bad digitizer. However, I have the same problem with the new display assembly—no touch response at all. The phone starts up fine and the screen works, I just can’t “slide to unlock”. This is also preventing me from downloading photos from the phone since I can’t enter the passcode. I have cleaned the connections and reseated the cables. Is it possible this is a problem on the logic board? If so, is there any way to get the photos off the phone since I can’t enter the passcode on the screen?

    ewistey -

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    • Rimuovi il gruppo pannello frontale dal case posteriore.

    Very clear and percise.

    Jessica Fader -

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    • Usa uno strumento di apertura di plastica per staccare il cavo con contatto a molla del pulsante home dall'involucro dell'altoparlante.

    Bei mir ist das Federkontaktkabel des Home Buttons defekt. Welches Ersatzteil ist dies und wie tausche ich es aus?

    Skyynet -

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    • Rimuovi le viti seguenti che fissano l'involucro dell'altoparlante alla cover posteriore:

    • Dua viti a croce Phillips #000 da 2,7 mm

    • Due viti a croce Phillips #000 da 2,2 mm

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    • Fai delicatamente leva con l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare l'involucro dell'altoparlante dal case posteriore.

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    • Togli l'involucro dell'altoparlante. Stai attento a evitare che si impigli nel cavo dell'antenna.

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    • Una staffa di contatto è avvolta attorno al foro più a destra dell'altoparlante. Questo piccolo componente può cadere improvvisamente, è meglio quindi rimuoverlo e notarne l'orientazione per il rimontaggio.

    • La parte piatta della clip di contatto deve appoggiarsi contro l'altoparlante, come illustrato.

    • La staffa di allineamento sull'estremità del gruppo display è incollata, ma potrebbe cadere se venisse manipolata in modo aggressivo.

    • L'estremità piegata deve essere rivolta verso l'alto e in linea con il bordo esterno dell'altoparlante.

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    • L'adesivo a contatto mostrato qui può mancare sul tuo altoparlante di ricambio. Assicurati di trasferirlo sulla nuova parte.

    • Usa uno strumento di apertura di plastica per staccare l'adesivo dall'altoparlante.

    • Stacca e rimuovi l'adesivo.

    where do I find the contact-bearing sticker? I accidentally ripped mine off and the speaker no longer works

    sk8erjuan -

    I followed this, speaker works fine now - but mic no longer works during calls

    mattdoonan -

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Sam Goldheart

Membro da: 19/10/12

465140 Reputazione

5 commenti

Speaker doesn't work even after replacing using this guide, any idea what can be wrong? many thanks

Amir -

Same here. Speaker went out. Replaced it with a new one from an Amazon seller, and still nothing. It's like I didn't do anything.

Rest of the phone works perfectly.

wlnorris -

I just did this replacement today and had the same problem as the other posts. However what I figured out was that the speaker is powered through contact on the back side. I applied some pressure to that area (this is mostly likely bad for the screen, so try at your own risk) to the speaker area and surprise it worked. A hacky fix was to put a piece of folded up paper on top of the speaker to create the contact. I do not recommend this fix, but it help solidify the actual cause.

Hope this helps

ayechonk -

ayechonk merci pour le tips, c'est bien un faux contact, en appuyant un peu j'ai le son, je vais testé le coup de la cale.

Hadou -

Does anyone know what's the actual voltage needed by the loudspeaker to work? I've tested it out the continuity of the loudspeakers (both the original on the replacing part) and they seem to work just fine, otherwise the output voltage from the motherboard on the contact while playing some music, swings quickly from 0 to 1mV.

Rocco Lorusso -