Sostituzione batteria Nexus 7 (2a generazione)

Scritto Da: Heather
  • Commenti: 63
Sostituzione batteria Nexus 7 (2a generazione)

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

9

Tempo Necessario

10 minuti - 1 ora

Introduzione

Usa questa guida per sostituire la batteria del tuo Nexus 7.

  1. xHPWImtKyPYRU6Qm
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    • Spegni il telefono.

    • Incunea il tuo strumento di apertura in plastica nella giunzione tra le due facce del dispositivo. Fai leva e apri un lato alla volta.

    • Non far leva vicino alla porta USB alla base del dispositivo, perché potresti rompere il pannello posteriore.

    I had a heck of a time doing this, spent ten or twenty minutes carefully prying, and I STILL cracked the case. At least on mine, the case was held in VERY well and required prying pretty much everywhere before it would let go. The tools I bought from iFixit really helped, but still a royal pain to open.

    pacmanmaster -

    a couple of obscure things that might help in opening:

    guitar pick. get a few; they are cheap.

    a prying device made for the sign industry: its called"lil' chizler". I have found that this to be the most helpful opening tool.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/16184595677...

    also

    https://www.qualitylogoproducts.com/trad...

    you can use the broken screen unit to test.

    Len Gorsky -

    Add "remove the sim tray"...

    Iain Lennon -

    I echo the previous - a right royal pain to get the cover off! I started on the right side as seemed to be more give there… iFixit tools helped tho!

    Steven Emery -

    Just for the sake of clarity, I would add that you need to pry between the plastic bezel and the back casing. Not between the glass and bezel. Someone had already tried on the one I worked on and part of the bezel was missing in the top right corner. Made my job easier!

    The best tools for this part are definitely something like the iFixit Jimmy and their opening tool, a few guitar picks and a spudger. Not too difficult once you get the first separation.

    Cool_Breeze -

    I managed to easily crack the screen, guess I’ll have to order a new one and “try” to put it in, in addition to the original job of replacing a dead battery on Nexus 7 2013..ahhhhhh, slow learner…

    Gary Stamey -

    Opened the case for the first time. It took me a while to find any gaps, but I found that the easy way to begin was using your fingernail to get into the sides. The middle left and middle right seemed a lot easier to…slip a nail in compared to the rest of the case, especially the corners and the top and bottom. With a small opening on both sides I used the opening tool to increase the gaps while using a couple of guitar picks to prop up the device against the back case. With most of the sides exposed, I worked on the bottom (create opening, leave a guitar pick to keep that part open, use the opening tool to get the rest out), and the opening was pretty much complete.

    So far only the corners of the back case showed small cracks and my screen was pretty much unscathed.

    Nam Lam -

    This method worked best for me! Start opening on the middle left and right sides, then prop them open with guitar picks and use to the opening tool (carefully) prying up several times moving away from the middle towards the corners to pop off the back casing.

    Frank's VR -

  2. RcOxAHLDxh4N6FCW

    • Usa anche le dita attorno alla giunzione tra il dispositivo e la cover posteriore. Usa il tuo strumento di apertura in plastica o le dita per separare ciascun lato fino a staccare completamente tra loro il dispositivo e la cover posteriore.

    • Fai attenzione quando lavori vicino agli angoli, la scocca del dispositivo può rivelarsi fragile.

    I did two of these. The first was a WIFI model that the earphone plug had become intermittant (just needed to resolder the connections.) The second an LTE version that the battery had gone bad and swelled to about 3 times the size.

    The swollen battery had pushed the glass free of the upper mount, and made the entire thing extremely tight.

    The WIFI one came apart easily like described.

    The LTE one (with the swollen battery) required a lot more care and a lot more force/damage to get into the gap between the two plastic pieces. (I did the wifi one first, so I could easily tell the difference.

    So depending on your situation...it may not be easy to separate the pieces...but remmber, the thin glass is sitting on one piece of plastic, the gap is between that piece of plastic and the back panel...a darker shiny black plastic is the top piece, a slightly lighter duller black plastic is the back panel...of course the glass is ALSO black...so good luck.

    dick -

  3. pJQvct2ghNT3Ntwt

    • Inserisci lo strumento di apertura in plastica sotto il bordo laterale del connettore della batteria e fai leva delicatamente per scollegarlo.

    THIS should be the first cable to disconnect. Always remove power first!

    dave -

    We moved this step to be fist, thanks for the edit!

    Sam Goldheart -

  4. dMEoF2y1nSFjKRYR
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    • Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o le unghie per far scattare l'aletta protettiva trasparente sullo zoccolo ZIF del cavo piatto.

    • Con l'estremità piatta di uno spudger o le unghie, solleva la porzione sottile del connettore (dal lato opposto a dove si inserisce il cavo) per liberare il cavo dal suo zoccolo.

    • Non far leva sullo zoccolo dal lato dove si inserisce il cavo, perché potresti staccare l'intero zoccolo dalla scheda madre.

    • Sfila il cavo dallo zoccolo ZIF.

    • Per maggiori informazioni su come staccare i connettori ZIF, vedi la nostra guida Riconoscimento e scollegamento dei connettori dei cavi.

    Flip up on the WHITE part, facing away from the cable. I sort of struggled with this part, but fortunately didn't do any serious damage.

    yuguoxiong -

    This is the correct way to do it. Flipping up the white part is what you have to do. I tried flipping up the black part and some of it broke off.

    Ryan -

    I found that I had to flip up on the black part here. I broke a section of the white trying to flip it up.

    pattylanter -

    This comment saved me on this step. Indeed the secret is to flip up the black part of the connector, located opposite the side where the cable inserts.

    Hannah Cirimele -

    This is wrong, these comments should be deleted so as to not confuse more people.

    Jeff Andrews -

    It's possible there's more than one color variation in production on these Nexus 7 ZIF sockets. To complicate matters, it looks like the guide's original author/photographer may have simply yanked the ribbon cable out without opening the socket, so there's very little visual clue here as to which is the right section to flip up. Based on these photos, I'd say Hannah's tip is probably correct—you want to flip up the thinner portion of the socket, opposite the cable (regardless of its color scheme). If someone who has successfully completed this step could supply a better photo, that would be super helpful!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I revised the text so there's no long any mention of the coloration of the socket.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I believe I broke the ZIF attached to the mobo at this step; is there any other way to reconnect it during reassembly or will I require a new mobo?

    Neil Reed -

    This was my first time with this kind of ZIF socket and found these instructions/pictures ambiguous. In hindsight I see what was being described (actually used the replacement daughterboard as my guide). May I suggest this phrasing:

    The ZIF clamp hinges on the side opposite of where the cable in inserted. Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip the thin portion of the connector up and away from the insertion side of the connector.

    charles fineman -

    Correction of Charles' Oct comment: The ZIF clamp hinges on the same side as the cable is inserted, the side towards the battery. The cable runs over the battery and into the thick connector, with contacts both on the side closest to the battery and on the side away from the battery. Beyond the contacts on the side away from the battery is the thin part to be lifted. Using the flat end of a spudger or your fingernail, flip the thin portion of the connector up and towards the insertion side of the connector. You can leverage gently against the big copper-covered area on the side away from the battery, in lifting the thin (white in the current picture) part of the connector.

    ted ballou -

    You can leverage gently against the big copper-covered area on the side away from the battery, in lifting the thin (white in the current picture) part of the connector, using a motion similar to the described in step 5 below for removing the orange ribbon connector.

    ted ballou -

    some better macro photos of the zif socket would help a lot, in closed and open states

    Iain Lennon -

    For anyone like me who has only experience with metal connectors similar to iPhones, this is a "switch-on/switch-off" connector.

    The cable doesn't pop out by itself, you have to pull it out yourself.

    Light to moderate pressure required.

    Jason -

    Please make the pictures clearer as Iain Lennon said. I too was a fool to not read the comments and broke the connector off of the motherboard.

    Yumi Blesh -

    Ha.

    So one side of the cable has a white strip connector, and the other side has a black strip connector. (both comments above are correct, depending on which side you are looking at)

    The side in the photo has a black connector strip that needs to be opened. It is the long small strip of plastic on the _opposite_ side of the connection point, to the cable.

    It clicks up into the air, like on a hinge.

    The cable then pulls out, without any resistance.

    Warwick -

    Having totally destroyed the ZIF connector I can now say that the WHITE portion is hinged and the BLACK portion is not. Both parts are extremely fragile. The photographs are really useless.

    David Spitzer -

    exactly ……..

    esykas -

    This shouldn’t be the first cable to disconnect. Disconnect the battery cable first. Always remove power first!

    dave -

    Good catch @hobohax0r, we rearranged the steps to help fix that!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I have added a photo of the socket in the open state. Also looking at the comments above it seems that the confusion is due to the fact that this cable is connected to a similarly looking connector on the other side, where the colors are reversed. It may be worth to point this out and tell that the connector the guide is talking about is located near the heatsinks

    Michael Sokolkov -

    Be very careful when you reconnect this cable - for some reason my screen would not respond to touch any more if you reconnect the cable on too tightly. Make sure you leave a bit of slack when putting the cable back in, and not just jam it all the way in.

    Mark -

    I tried to take some pictures of the way the sockets worked on mine (2013 Wi-Fi (Flo)), but considering hardware variations, I’m not sure if this applies to every Nexus 7 (or even every Flo)

    https://imgur.com/a/wd8hFqW

    W H -

    Just to follow up, much later… if you see white, you should see a small notch. lift there.

    Look very carefully at the second photo and see the white “flap” has been opened, pointing at you.

    Whichever color, it takes NO REAL EFFORT to flip them back. No need to force anything at this micro level.

    Mike Maddux -

  5. eOfehnJfsHK1GWGI

    • Stacca la lamina protettiva disposta sopra la scheda madre per esporre la connessione del cavo flat arancione.

    • Le connessioni del cavo piatto dovrebbero essere perfettamente visibili, mostrando le linguette di plastica.

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    • Stacca con delle pinzette il foglio protettivo argentato sopra il connettore del cavo a nastro arancione.

    • Fai leva sotto il connettore del cavo arancione con lo strumento di apertura in plastica per sollevarlo. Dovrebbe saltare via dalla sua posizione.

  7. PtGFmOKWlncKdCK3
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    • Ora che i due cavi piatti principali sono scollegati, ripiegali e tienili lontano con le dita, oppure sistemaci sopra le pinzette o un altro oggetto leggero per tenerle discoste.

    How called is the left one ? I broke it and i will buy it but cant find it..

    Timo Dohmen -

  8. 5JPhFNGmbFcLRehZ

    • Usa il cacciavite a croce Phillips #0 per rimuovere le quattro viti a croce cromate Phillips #0 da 3 mm disposte attorno all'alloggiamento della batteria.

    There are 6 screws on mine. One at the top and the other directly across from that on the other side of the battery at the bottom. These two screws are covered with a small adhesive sticker that says “seal". Those stickers need to be removed so the Phillips screwdriver can be inserted to remove them.

    dabair30 -

    Correcrion, there are 7. One more at the top left corner of the battery tray. The last 3 screws are slightly larger than the first 4.

    dabair30 -

    I found using a #00 Philips worked better for my removal.

    Todd -

    The WIFI only one is exactly as pictured. The LTE one has 3 more screws, two are the motherboard mounting screws (one with tamper sticker) and one at bottom on the other mainboard (also with tamper sticker). Other than that it is exactly the same.

    dick -

  9. FPOpL14uHChGauin

    • Rimuovi la batteria dal dispositivo esercitando una certa pressione alla base della batteria e quindi sollevandola.

    If your replacement battery doesn’t have the metal battery tray included (like mine came) be aware you’ll have to CAREFULLY pry the old battery out of the metal tray. It has some pretty strong glue holding it in, but prying on it slowly and carefully should get it free without bending up the metal tray. There should be enough glue residue left in the tray to hold the new battery in, at least until you get the tablet back together.

    Tracy Nash -

    Thank you for the very helpful comment - I was facing the same issue!

    Jorge Gomes -

    You probably should add that the battery is held in the tray with some glue strips. It took a bit to carefully remove the battery from the tray without bending the tray too much. Also, the replacement battery I had was slightly smaller than the OEM battery. When putting back together make sure you place the battery in the tray so the battery is close enough to the battery connector and you can reconnect the battery without pulling on the connector wires.

    Todd -

    Having replaced the battery I find it doesn't charge. Which connector could be at fault please?

    mxclubman -

Conclusione

Per rimontare il tuo dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Heather

Membro da: 22/01/15

1419 Reputazione

20 commenti

Don't be a goof like me and spend seven minutes trying to pry in the gap between the screen glass and the plastic. I thought that the plastic cover wrapped around the whole of the side and met the unit just under the glass. Nope...find the seam near the halfway point of the case side, between plastic and plastic. (The first photo here is not sufficiently clear to make this obvious.)

ceristaggbusiness -

This is such a valuable comment. The photos are VERY misleading. Thank you for pointing this out!

q3cq3c -

1 If you look closely, you'll see that at the edge of the glossy, black screen there is a glossy, black, 1mm hard plastic band going all the way around the screen. This provides the beveling on the edge of the screen. Around that is the dull, black plastic case. Insert your spunger or fingernail between these two plastic bands. It is easiest to do near the middle both of the long sides. Gently slide up toward the corners popping each little snap. When you get near the corner, keep one fingernail/spunger in the gap you've created on the side, near the corner, then use another nail/spunger to go around the corner. Be careful here. This is the easiest place to damage.

Once the corners have popped, the end/short top edge is easy. The bottom edge is different since the micro-USB port is also there. I did not pry it open but lifted the other three sides and just slid the screen out from that end. I inserted the USB end first also when reassembling, snapping the other edges then corners in afterward.

Greg Conquest -

2 I did crack that hard plastic band in two spots on the top left corner of my Nexus 7 (opposite the camera). On spot a tiny piece broke out, but the band is still continuous at the glass edge. Around the corner, the band actually appears to have broken in two. If I rub my finger there, I can begin to peel it up. I hope my case will keep it protected.

Greg Conquest -

I had trouble with the stupid ribbon cable zif socket. Everything went well until the very end when I was reassembling and I had to stick that sucker in. It was really difficult, and the plastic tab came off. Then the end I pulled out at the beginning wasn't going back in. After trying to glue the plastic pulling-flap back on (hint: don't do that) I gave up, but then I had an idea. I pulled out the entire ribbon from both ends and just flipped them. Put in the troubled end in the bottom socket (it was easier than wrestling with it), and the better end in near the top of the tablet next to that orange ribbon, and it worked! I'm so relieved...! Now my tablet is back to working condition!

Hanna -

Step 1: if you have the LTE version, REMOVE THE SIM CARD TRAY. It's silly brittle as-is.

Step 2: It's the seam between plastic and plastic, NOT next to the glass! After so many comments, I don't know how this hasn't been mentioned in the tutorial.

alex -

WTF. I cannot begin to pry off the cover, the way the picture shows -- even with my official Fixit pry tools, which are now pretty much shot. But I did manage to break a few pieces off of the slim plastic protecting the edge of the screen. BTW, I did pry between the two plastic sections, not next to the glass.

Be warned that these instructions do not accurately show how hard this is and how dangerous to the cosmetics of your tablet. Glad I didn't order the battery yet, because my Nexus is likely done for. Thanks guys.

Upwith Privacy -

UPDATE: I finally got the cover off by carefully using a small knife. The cover edges are scarred and a small clip broke off at the first corner. It was brutal and the FIXIT plastic tools were worse than useless.

Upwith Privacy -

I just did this, and appreciate the comments above. I couldn't get the old battery out because it is glued in. There is another tutorial on YouTube that suggests first taking the battery tray out (four screws) which made it much easier to pry the battery out.

Bob Gates -

I had to disconnect the battery to get my device out of a crash at the first "Google" screen. This guide was what I needed to get in. Do add "remove the sim tray" at the start though...

I'd suggest getting someone to take macro photos of the zif socket in closed and opened states though. It is not clear how to open it up from the text, despite a description to try and help. And, as it needs a little force in the right place (and because the socket opens counterintuitively) I think it could help other people to do this bit safely. I would have if I wasn't swearing at the socket at the time, and didn't think to do so...

Iain Lennon -

Instructions could be better overall. Better pictures needed as well. Also the battery is taped into the tray and difficult to remove. This is not noted here.

Nick Barber -

You can buy the replacement with or without the tray. Mine came without so I had to detach the old one from the tray - it's suprisingly flexible, so I worked my way slowly whilst mentaly preparing for a sudden fire :/ Anyway it's worth noting here. Also +1 to the tray remark. I figured that one out, but only before forcing it a bit. Good luck :)

Konrad Skrzypek -

Here are my comments in the hopes they will help someone else. Although I DID finish it, and it is showing that it IS charging...it remains to be seen yet whether my tablet works. :-(

Well....I did it! The three issues I had were: 1) The d**n battery was GLUED to the casing! so I ended up bending the very SOFT metal to get it out; I figured I could force it flat again once screwed in 2) Replacing the "ribbon cable ZIF socket" afterwards was almost impossible but I figured it was due to the metal battery case being bent and not flat; I struggled to get this one in and out several times; Same with re-attaching the orange ribbon connector was dicey because it also was not fitting tight onto the match; I had to stretch it and push real hard then try to retape . 3) Don't-REPEAT: DON'T even TRY this without the exact size tiny Phillips screwdriver...that was a big part of my frustration.

I hope these comments help someone else, because I was extremely grateful for this site!

sharon -

The battery was very hard to get out of the tray. I gently warmed it with a dryer on low and a little plastic pry tool slowly releasing it. I inserted the pry tool under the side with the plug for the battery and worked my way down. Once that side was free it was easier to release the other, though I bent the tray slightly. It is held by 2 pieces of double stick tape on either side of the battery. All-in-all it was a tedious task. I would say not for a beginner.

cindy Okinczyc -

Just finished, and it powered on at least. I’ve had an intermittent issue where the battery just drops out completely and shuts down. Figured a loose connection or bad battery and decided to try and replace, as it is going on 5 years old.

Removing the cover was tricky, luckily the left side plastic bezel had a small chip in it that made it easy to start. Cracked the bezel in the bottom left corner, and accidently cracked between the edge and volume down.

Had a stuck screw, moved to a PH000 and wiggled it back and forth until it got a grip and came loose. I saw blue stripes, so glue or thread locker is likely on them.

Worst part was getting the battery off the tray, which is held down by two strips of double side tape on the left and right edges. Eventually got it off, and good thing I had the new battery because I didn’t do the best job of getting the old one out.

Hopefully this fixes the issue.

Chance Waterman -

Last step: Pry the old battery out the the enclosing aluminum frame. Use some gentle heat on the back if it’s stuck. Insert the new battery into the frame using the same orientation and reinstall it into the tablet using the four philips screws.

Nick Vee -

Definitely not 10 minutes, getting the back off was insane. Poked and pried for an hour or so before I finally got it to come free in one spot, then worked a guitar pick tool around from there to finally get it completely open. Once open, it was pretty easy to get the battery tray out, but the only replacement battery I could find didn’t come with a tray, so I spent another large chunk of time wedging the flat end of a spudger between the tape and the old battery and rotating it back and forth to peel a bit of battery off the tape at a time (the old battery had inflated pretty good, and fortunately I didn’t pop it). Went back together trivially, seems to work, and is charging now. The screen is flat again, not bulged in the middle.

Thomas Horsley -

Done. No damage to the screen itself, couple of scratches of the bezel (ill attempt at opening the top with a stanley), small cracks at a few corners of the back case. Most troublesome part was the first step, but I finally got an opening after slipping a nail in the middle of the sides (either side is easy). Repair was straightforward from then on.

Thanks ifixit. Your tools and your guide really helped this beginner. Now I don’t have to drop 500 on a tablet.

Nam Lam -

The flat cable connector on mine had colours the reverse of the description above, though "the thin strip" is a good description. It's a very narrow strip at the edge away from the flat cable and the strip flips up to unlock the cable and presses down to lock the cable.

Gordon Scott -

I never did any research on how to open my Nexus 7 tablet screen. I just used a Flathead screwdriver and pride and open cracking the screen and damaging the USB port. Don't ever do that! I wish Google sold extra parts for their devices.😞💡

WhatsInside -