Sostituzione batteria nel MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display versione metà 2015

I’m having a problem trying to get the screws off. I have a set of pentalobe screwdriver set. I found one screwdriver that fits perfectly on one set of screws, but I am unable to unscrew it. I tried using some force pushing the screwdriver into the screw, but nothing happens. Any suggestions?

All the screws on mine are the same length for some reason.

I would recommend the first step is: Run the battery down to ZERO before doing any next step. This reduces risk to you, people nearby, to the MBP and greatly reduces the risk of fire. Step 2 should be: Double-check that the battery is at zero.

I like others listed below and on YouTube, disagree with these full tear down 70+ steps being the only focus. I get that I have to be careful not to get the acetone solvent near the speakers. I skipped 25+ steps by: tilting the MBP away from the speakers and using very little acetone solvent. More pressure with the plastic cards and only a few drops of solvent. While giving the full set of instructions is fine it should be very clear that you can (at the user’s own risk) do this.

As above—I consider full disassembly to be far riskier to fragile cables and connectors than the risk for solvent spillage. I did steps 1-5 and 46-74. No issues. I HIGHLY recommend the iFixit magnetic Project Mat. It’s a white marker board surface gridded into squares and invaluable for labeling part sizes/steps in disassembly.

As above too. I benefitted from the advice. From step 51 onwards, I found a easier way using tip from China battery seller. Use a 2” width plastic scraper/plastic paint scraper to poke under the battery. Use moderate strength to poke and avoid rough handling of the battery so as not to puncture it. There is no need to pry the battery to avoid stressing it, just use a firm poking action under the battery and the double sided tape adhesive will yield. After 5 min of such poking, the entire battery pack can be removed without the hassle of pouring the adhesive remover from step 51 onwards. Get a scraper with a stronger handle so that it is more comfortable to poke.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32889670...

Heads up as you go…we (husband/wife team) had a notebook that when screws/covers were removed, we marked the step # and actually taped the screws into the notebook noted by the step number. This was very helpful on reassembly and we knew we would be using the exact screw into the original screw hole.

I found an Apple Support link that said MBP battery replacement was $199, but the 2 Apple Stores near my house would not provide any appointments. Instead, I scheduled an appointment with and “Apple Authorized Service Provider” & that repair center quoted about $750 to replace the battery.

I refused, went home, & opened a chat with Apple Support.

After a lengthy & painful chat session where the Apple tech didn’t want to provide a battery replacement quote (he feared other issues with the MBPr), he finally gave me an Apple price of just under $650 to replace the battery.

Did you go into an Apple store, or mail it in? I’m struggling to reconcile a price of $199 to get a battery + keyboard + trackpad against what I was just quoted 2 weeks ago. The new track pad & keyboard might have been due to repair tech error. i.e. they trashed those repairing your batter & had to toss them in.

I took mine in after being quoted for a $199 replacement of battery and keyboard, only to have the repair refused as they found a "water sensor" triggered and now I'm left with my AUD$5,000 laptop with messed up keys. Shame on me for not getting this repaired during COVID while under warranty. This is the first time I've truly been disappointed in Apple, but suppose it was bound to happen someday. I was quoted US$ 1479 to replace the battery and keyboard and the sensor (likely the logic board is replaced as well) if I were to send it in to the US repair center. Any chance these sensors can be triggered by humidity?

It’s now February 2024, and the batteries Apple installed have all swelled up just like the originals. Doing a bit of research on the manufacturer, Simplo, I no longer trust them either. Microsoft used Simplo in their tablets, with countless users complaining about bad batteries. A few days ago, I read a post saying Apple now charges $250 instead of the $200 I paid less than three years ago. WOW! Even if Apple would replace my batteries, there’s no way I’m going that route again. Too bad my MacBook won’t boot without batteries. I don’t need them; I don’t want them. I also don’t want a newer MacBook. What to do???

Same for me. It just never clips, regardless of the precision and the amount of force I apply.

I also think I stripped the screws holding the clips in place. Does anyone know what screw characteristics should I look for as a replacement?

Bloated battery had already popped my clips.

I chanced it, didnt disconnect the battery and all is well even after giving the insides a good vacuuming before changing the SSD.

It is just the top layer of tape that you want to lift, you need to seperate it from the bottom layer.

You don’t actually need to remove the tape or even peel it off at all. Just pull up the battery connector up with the tape still attached.

pay attention that the macbook in this picture is presented the “wrong side”: if you accidentally remove the tape covering the trackpad cable and thereby also take the trackpad cable out of the zif-socket, your keyboard and trackpad won’t work anymore. putting the trackpad cable back into the (tiny) socket will fix the issue though.

Habe den Akkustecker beim putzen abgemacht um keinen Stromschlag zu kriegen, jetzt wieder eingebaut. Nun habe ich folgendes Problem: Akku wird geladen, aber steigt niemals ueber % und manchmal geht er trotz Anschluss an das Stromnetz einfach aus. Hat da jemand eine Idee?

My battery connector had another layer of plastic on it that I removed first

For an A1398, the screws on the adjacent cover were T6, not T5; one of the tips in the battery kit was suitable.

I need dis board hw much

After separating the battery connector, I took the addd precaution of placing a folded post-it between the connector bank and the socket.

You can also use a plastic tool to hold back the battery connector. My connector was under the plastic tab and had no screws. You may need to check the build version as there are a number of A1398 versions.

When you install the new battery, it may look like the holes in the connector need to be slid on to the connector toward the rear of the mac. I tried bending the cable to make it work. This could damage the cables. You really need only push directly downward on the connector, as you pulled up on it to remove it initially. It will pop into place with a little pressure, just make sure it's lined up properly.

I had to use quite a lot of pressure to make the connector on my new battery pop all the way down. I thought it was down already when it was only half way, as I was afraid to use too much force. Maybe it varies between different battery brands, but just make sure that the connector should go all the way down and not have a gap between the two parts.

" …ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board."

You appear to assume that everyone knows which item is the logic board. I can attest that not everyone does. Clarity here would be helpful.

If you don't know what the/a logic board is, you probably shouldn't be opening devices.

Art Hackett. Not useful. This guide is for laypeople. Nobody is supposed to know much of anything. That's the point of the guide and the existence of iFixit. You could have used that time to explain what the logic board is for people who are already here anyway.

Anyway onward and upward. If you don't know what a logic board is and you're here. https://www.google.com/search?q=macbook+...

There, now you're an expert like Art.

I think there is a better way - where you disconnect the wifi card using the black screw in middle of wire 2 and 3 first and then untie these connectors. I pryed away the connectors but the sockets on the card were all damaged during the process. Ended up having to get a replacement card before reassembly could be completed. So again there are 2 components - connectors which are being pryed away and really fine and delicate socket. Very easy to damage them. Better to take the card off and delicately peel these connectors off. I would not recommend using these pry sticks mentioned here for that.

ATTENTION ! Cette étape est grandement sous-estimée, aucune mention de la délicatesse de l’opération contrairement à d’autres étapes bien plus facile… De plus, il semble possible de sauter cette étape en déconnectant seulement la carte comme expliquer sur la version anglophone du guide !!! J’ai endommagé le connecteur le plus proche du ventilateur, pour rien… Heureusement, tout semble fonctionner correctement…

AirPort/Camera Cables? not AirPort/Bluetooth Cables?

Je confirme qu’il est plus simple de déconnecter la carte (enlever la vis, et tirer délicatement sur la carte) que d’enlever les trois cables / I confirm that it’s a lot easier to disconnect the Airport card (just remove the screw and pull gently) than removing those 3 wires.

Agreed with Abhishek - removing the wifi card first makes this much easier.

How do you know which is which when reassembling?

As many have mentioned, don’t disconnect the wires is reallly a pain in the a… to connect them, it wont be easy and will take a lot of patience….. Better disconnect the card and carefully leave the wires connected.

Just finished replacing my display LVDS Cable with this guide and another one; awesome. I as well just removed the card and left the wires attached. Much easier.

This is one of those skills that you get experience right after you need it.

I learned these connectors doing RF work. They require a deft touch. Put slight downward pressure while you work to align the pair. Once you get the hang of it, you will know when they are aligned, and they will go back together with a light push and make a slight snap.

If they don’t immediately pop together with a light push, they’re not aligned quite right. Don’t force them, they have a very limited number of make/break cycles.

The cables should retain their bent shape well enough to show where each goes. One it too short to go too far off, and one is too long to fit to the nearest connection.

I’m one of those unfortunate ones that simply followed the iFixit instructions before reading the comments. On successfully reconnecting 2 of the cables and (miserably) failing with the 3rd, I realized the relevance of the comments. I decided to take a gamble and leave the 3rd connector unconnected and fired up my MacBook … strangely enough, everything works fine i.e from the comments, WiFi, Bluetooth, Camera (et al) should be affected but they are all still fully operational (maybe they’ll die with time - I hope not). I don’t like the thought of an unattached cable lying around in my Mac hence I agree with those advocating for alternatives to this step (unhinging the WiFi card as opposed to prying these cables).

Diese drei winzigen Stecker wieder aufzusetzen war tatsächlich die größte Herausforderung der ganzen Reparatur! Wichtig ist dabei darauf zu achten, diese waagerecht und passgenau aufzusetzen. Ich habe dazu die Lupe meiner Lötvorrichtung genutzt und zum aufdrücken die flache Seite des Spudgers.

These antenna connectors are the worst to reconnect. Depending on the model and what repair you are doing, you may not be able to avoid disconnecting them.

We took the advice of leaving the wires attached to the card, and unhinging the wifi the card cable. Worked great for us.

Ditto on just removing the card and leaving the antenna connected. Worked fabulously.

If you do need to get the cables back on the the card, I have found good results using the tip of a T5 driver to gently push them down (of course while aligning carefully with other finger). It gives a firm, flat & precise surface to press with + we know you have a T5 around!

Why do these wires/sockets need to be removed at all? They seem like they are pretty faraway from the battery.

As we are only replacing the battery, you can safely skip steps 6-26 and 28-48, no need to disassemble the computer to pull out the battery. Use nail polisher remover I was able to pull a super bloated battery out, without disassembling my MacBook.

Can I replace it with early 2015 monitor? Couldn’t find a cheap mid 2015 one but I found a reasonably priced early 2015 one and I would like to have it ?

I'm here to tell you that it is possible to remove and reassemble these wires, despite all the above comments making it seem almost impossible. I was planning to remove the entire card instead, but accidentally popped one of the wires when trying to get the card out. So then I just figured I might as well follow the instructions. Popping them was easy, getting them back on was a bit more tricky. Use a fine tip plier to hold the wire and place the plug in place, then press down (quite firmly!) with a spudge or something flat (I would advise against using a metal tool such as the torx driver, in case you slip and hit something). As long as the plug is directly above the connector and aligned properly, you won't break it. Use a good light source and a magnifying glass if needed. I brought my adjustable desk up to eye level so I could come really close and see what I was doing.

Before removing the wires, I recommend marking each with for example some tape so that you know in which socket to place them when reconnecting them later.

I got to this step and read a few more and was like oh shoot. I cannot be without my laptop if i mess something up and break a cable. The advice was right. I skipped all the extra removal pieces and just removed the battery. I did step 1-5. Then did step 26 and 27. Then steps 33 and 34. The finished with steps 46-51. I didn't have the blocks so i bypassed putting the laptop on a slant. so after step 51 i skipped to 56 and just started prying off the battery with a credit card and other ifix it tools. I do think the adhesive remover would be very helpful. I also wore goggles cause i caused a spark when i accident poked one of the batteries. Laptop is fine but it is very time consuming and difficult. I recommend getting the kit with the battery. Its only 10 bucks more and i think it would have saved me heaps of time!!!

Just don't do it! Like is says at the beginning, if you use a mild solvent like isopropyl alcohol, you can skip steps 6 - 45. My battery was pretty swollen and had already partially detached itself, so a little alcohol and some working with the plastic cards was all it took to get the battery freed up. Saved a lot of risky work!

This video shows how to remove the battery without all the steps explained here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZ_jB9fR...

If you are careful, you can completely skip steps 6-25 and 28-45 and remove the battery pretty easily; I have done this battery replacement several times and did not have to disassemble the entire MacBook to do so.

Holy cow I removed the battery using the linked video’s technique and some patience. The batter is stuck to the chassis with double-sided tape. With care the battery can be removed without dissolving the adhesive or removing all of the parts. It seems to me that the risks of carefully removing the battery from the tape are lower than removing all of the components as presented in these instructions.

Take the Wifi-card out instead! It's just one screw.

supplied tool does not have a fine enough point here - won’t move at all

I used the fine point and also used the tweezers under the plug to relieve some pressure. I was very, very careful and made small moves. I seemed to get it out with no damage.

I personally used my tweezers and this came out with ease and without issue.

Thanks for your comments guys! The ones about the twiners were a BINGO! :-)

It was much easier following the instructions on the YouTube video, thanks! Looks like the process starts around 4:11.

why are we completely tearing the computer, just to replace the battery?

surely tearing it down could do more damage than being careful removing the bloated battery

Is this really necessary just to replace the LEFT speaker?

I'm replacing the speakers and one of these 4 screws is longer than the others. unclear of it's size so it helps to pay attention to the size/what they look like when taking them out!!

Terrible instructions on this one. I thought I was supposed to pull the cable off the bottom of the fan! Not photos showing the final result. Finally the cable on the right came away from the board and out of the socket with the flap lifted up. Please make this clearer or damage to the cable can take place.

Instructions are faulty. After removing fan screws and lifting the retaining flap, lift the fan with one hand while gently pushing the connector with the flat side of a spudge toward the back of the chassis. It should slide off.

I definitely needed to use the spudger to gently lift the cable from the board while holding the fan with one hand. The cable was stuck on the board pretty well. Once I broke the seal it was a simple case of pushing it out of the connector.

I think it would be easier to understand if there was a picture showing how the connector slides out

On the other hand, when reassembling, keep the screws until this step 29

The red screw above is the same one I had to remove to remove the I/O board back in step 24

You should really do this colorblind-proof...

The retaining flap broke on me as well and caused a near panic. I actually managed to fix it by careful inspection under magnifier and some trial and error with tweezers. The retaining flap itself is comb shaped - a solid edge and then combs that come out between the wires., and apparently just held in by the tiniest of detents. After trying unsuccessfully to push it back down between the wires, I surmised that the gaps in the “comb” side for the wires were sealed loop and that the wires it sat on were open ended. So I eventually ended up lining the flap up as if it were closed, and then carefully nudging it up onto the top wires, which was succesful, and then pushing it back into the open position to get the detents in place. Then to close it after reinserting the cable I walked it down bit by bit by pushing forward and *downward* on each side to help it maintain it’s ‘hinging’ effect. I think frankly you’re better off pushing larger ones like these down with your finger instead of a tool.

To close my retainer during reassembly I ended up using the side of the iFixit spudger. I pressed against the entire length of the retainer in order to apply equal pressure along the whole thing. It seemed to work well.

Ensure the board is completely lined up when reassembling. The cable is incredibly fragile, and I unfortunately ripped mine when trying to line it up. Avoidable error.

I’m pretty sure I inadvertently touched the connectors. Would this cause immediate errors or obscure, difficult-to-diagnose problems later in life ? Also strongly suggest using magnification when disconnecting and reconnecting this connector and others to ensure proper alignment. As Jerome said these are some of the most fragile parts of the system.

I'm jumping on the bandwagon here and saying that yes, pull the cable out towards the right (where the MagSafe connector) and not up. I also found using the tweezers made this easier.

Big fan of the tweezers.

I can't stress this enough - again: This connector is extremely fragile. After changing the right speaker and putting everything in place my display went black. Gone. Tried with the display data connector's"out an in again" very carefully - nothing. The professional technician at the service shop I asked told me he wouldn't touch that particular connector ever again.

I mean, why the logic board disassembly? Only because the speaker's cable is placed under the logic board? Why not cutting the old cable without removing the logic board and putting the new speaker in, placing the cable on top of the logic board? To avoid the necessity of disconnecting the display data connector at all costs?

I had to remove one of the screws from the battery board before the logic board had enough clearance to lift up.

We (husband/wife team) just slid the logic board out to right, and did not entirely remove. For reassembly, we reviewed all the cables and made sure they were positioned out of the way, or taped back, before repositioning the logic board back into position. Worth it to review before getting it back into position.

why is the heatsink still attached?

When the instructions say "above the battery" they don't mean physically above, they mean in front of -- very important, so that the cable ends up underneath the logic board (but not the connector, the connector needs to be out of the way so that the logic board goes above the cable but underneath the connector. Hope that's clear (I had to remove the logic board to get the cable back underneath the logic board)

They don't tell you to release the locking latch. At the front side of the connector is a small black bar that runs the length of the connector. Lift that up to release the connector from the socket.

This process was quick and easy. Takes patience but was able to get it done in about 1.5 hours. Getting the adhesive took the longest after getting the battery removed.

I’d definitely put the speakers back before sticking the new battery down. The new battery got stuck slightly close to where the left speakers was going it, and I was just barely able to make it all fit.

It would’ve been helpful to include a list of instructions for replacing all of the parts instead of just making us read the instructions backwards. When I was putting the logic board back on, I didn’t realize that one of the connectors got stuck underneath the board when placing it back into the computer. After reconnecting half of the connectors I realized one of them was stuck underneath so I had to disconnect all of the ones I reconnected to lift the logic board back up and pull out the connecter that got stuck underneath. I forgot to detach the keyboard backlight connecter and when I lifted to logic board the pull out the connecter stuck underneath, I snapped the keyboard backlight cable that was still attached. Luckily this isn’t a major component and I don’t really use the keyboard backlight that much anyway, but if you included a list of instructions for reattaching everything I probably wouldn’t have had this problem.

I have an additional suggestion on placing the new battery. With the laptop case hinge away from you, I put a piece of masking tape from the bottom (closer) right corner of the new battery pack to the bottom left corner of the battery pack with some slack in it. This allows you to pick up the bottom edge of the batteries in an arc, and position and place the center ones first. I screwed in the battery controller, pulled the heavy plastic backing off of the batteries, then placed the center batteries, followed by the outside ones. be careful to stick the tape firmly. The last thing you want is the batteries coming free and falling to the case and sticking wherever they land. Good luck. This was the most stressful step for me. While you’re reassembling, give the fans and the fins of the heat exchangers a good dust with canned air. :)

The protective film covering the adhesive is one long strip that keeps the batteries aligned. It’s kind of stiff and part of it sticks out preventing the center batteries from aligning properly, so I couldn’t really check the fit. Once I pulled off the film, the left and right batteries became difficult to manage and I ended up dropping a couple prematurely. In hindsight, I think it would have been helpful to cut the film between the cells and cut out the part that was in the way first.

This was quite easy. Follow the sequence. I took a 50cm long wide tape where I put the screws head down on in order to have them in the right sequence while assembling the machine again. Timeframe was 1.5 hours.

All in all this was a great kit. The worst part is step 6. Pulling the 3 little wires off the airport card. Honestly, I would probably just take the entire card off vs those three wires… With respect to putting the new battery in, line up the two screw holes in the battery chips with the case. I also installed the speakers first just to make sure that I’d get the placement right. Other than that, there are a lot of ribbon cables so be meticulous and take it slow. This took about 3 hours to break everything down and about half an hour to put everything back together. Good luck!

Like many others here; I did not do all the steps. I would have surely broken something else. Once I (carefully) disconnected the battery and track pad ribbon cable and carefully moved them aside, I then applied the solution to the batteries to loosen the adhesive. Put my Macbook Pro on a slant to keep the solution from running everywhere, btw. Then I used dental floss to cut thru the adhesive. Didn’t have to work at it much because my batteries had swelled to the point where they had mostly dislodged themself from the adhesive. Great kit and loved that iFixit did not skimp on the tools and accessories. What a difference a new battery makes!!! After charging it and then draining it (calibrating) it seemed like it took forever for the battery to drain. Thanks iFixit!

Ohne die tolle Reparaturanleitung hätte ich den Austausch der Akkus niemals geschafft! Herzlichen Dank für die detaillierte Anleitung! Um die Schrauben jeweils wieder in der entsprechend richtigen Stelle einzuschrauben, hatte ich diese mit der entsprechenden farblichen Markierung (entsprechend der Anleitung) auf kleinen Styroporplatten abgelegt.

Thanks to these comments I’m another who didn’t do all the disassembly or use the adhesive remover.

I did steps 1-5, 26-27 and 46-50. I sawed/jabbed away at the adhesive with the plastic cards and the spudger (be careful with anything pointy that you’re not jabbing the battery—only the adhesive when you can pull it away enough to see exactly where you’re using it). My battery was badly swollen so a lot of mine had peeled up already. It took a bit of muscling but overall it wasn’t bad and I did the whole process in an hour.

Unnecessarily complicated?

Having followed this article through, and installed my new battery, it seems to me that it wasn’t necessary to do such a comprehensive teardown.

I was cussing Apple all the way for making the most likely to be replaced component so inaccessible, but it seems that removing the logic board, I/O board, fans and all the cables that go with them is all to free the right speaker cable. I think the batteries could be carefully pried out without removing everything else. The left speaker and its cable are easily removed, and the right speaker could be tucked out of the way without being disconnected.

I wouldn’t say the whole process was difficult, but it was tedious and my only advice would be slow and steady wins the race. I’ve torn too many ribbon cable in the past being impatient and over zealous.

This seems overly complicated to me. No real need to tear the entire machine apart. I just swapped the battery following steps

1-5, 26, 27, 41+43 (yellow and orange screws only), 46-50, 55-74

To remove the battery, I opened the MacBook to 90 degrees and turned it around (like a pitched roof). With the screws removed the bottom end of the speaker assembly can be pried up by about 10mm to wedge the plastic card under the batteries. The adhesive dissolver I’ve put at the top end of the batteries so that it was running down behind, away from the speakers and the main circuit board.

As we are only replacing the battery, you can safely skip steps 6-26 and 28-48, no need to disassemble the computer to pull out the battery. Use nail polisher remover I was able to pull a super bloated battery out, without disassembling my MacBook.

Thanks for this great tuto, The battery was very well stuck… but the tool box purchased on this site was very helpful.

100% of success

A question: i replaced the battery and all works well, but a black back patch of metal sheet got connected to the old battery and i only noticed it after assembling and turning on the mac; is this metal sheet “really” important or can i go without it? I rather not go back in and redo all the work.

Does anyone have the experience of getting all the way through this (seemingly successfully) only to find that your computer doesn’t register the battery having been installed? Unclear if the battery could be a dud or if the battery connector/cable has an issue?

I just pried the battery out with an old credit card. If you go at it carefully, that's totally feasible.

I'll have to disassemble most of the machine anyways though, since i also have to replace the speakers. No real time saved :/

What if you replaced the battery and it works but now the keyboard trackpad don’t? I rechecked all the connections.

I followed the whole process, recalibrated the ifixit battery and reset the SMC, however the computer runs slow, the fans are throttled and I have experienced dramatic performance degradation. I have macOS 10.15.7.

Any solution?

I did this in 8 steps instead of 74. You can watch youtube on how to remove it without taking the macbook apart. You really only need remove 4 screws which is the trackpad connector & the screws on the battery. Just be careful & obviously don't use anything sharp or metal & you will be fine. The battery actually came up pretty easily for me because there wasn't much adhesive, it only took like 2 minutes to come up. I didn't use adhesive or the cards just the flat part of the spludger thats all I needed personally! If you need to be more aggressive with yours use the cards & adhesive.

What took me the longest was lining up the new battery to the screws & the connector. Do not remove the bottom adhesive until you line it up correctly, it was a pain & I had to keep removing the sticky battery & placing it over 15 times.

Sure wish i had read the comment first and just pulled the battery. Now i have a pooched computer with no trackpad and no speakers. Dont follow this tech!

Adhesive is such a pain. With the new battery, I didn't remove the tape that cover the adhesive and just install as it is.

Do you think that would be okay?

Also once boot up the Mac, for some reason my original password no longer work. I have to go through the Apple Id recovery option to reset the Mac login password. Seem a bit odd but it works.