Sostituzione disco fisso nell'iMac Intel EMC 2133 o EMC 2210 da 20"

Scritto Da: Walter Galan
  • Commenti: 189
Sostituzione disco fisso nell'iMac Intel EMC 2133 o EMC 2210 da 20"

Difficoltà

Moderato

Passi

24

Tempo Necessario

1 ora

Introduzione

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  1. 3BdxtI2HvAvYfdgY

    • Allentare la vite con testa a croce al centro dello sportello di accesso.

    • La vite resta all'interno dello sportello di accesso.

    • Rimuovere lo sportello di accesso dall'iMac.

    isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?

    grze -

    It is for the 2133, the 2210 uses 6400

    maccentric -

    There are comments elsewhere in this step by step re. the bezel removal. That step does NOT show how to remove it. Well, take the 5:39 secs to watch the above video. It clearly shows how the aluminum framed bezel easily comes off once you've seen it done. To whoever decided to preface these instructions with that video, thank you.

    ECJohansen -

  2. hE55xqsxNSJoZGy1
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    • Il pannello di vetro è fissato nella mascherina anteriore con quattordici magneti posizionati lungo il perimetro.

    • Far aderire due ventose agli angoli opposti del pannello di vetro.

    • Per far aderire le nostre ventose, per prima cosa posizionarle con la maniglia semovente parallela alla superficie del pannello di vetro. Tenendo delicatamente la ventosa contro il vetro, sollevare la maniglia semovente finché non è parallela all'altra maniglia.

    • Se la ventosa non aderisce, provare a ripulire il pannello di vetro e la ventosa con un solvente delicato, come i detergenti per i vetri.

    At this stage and later handling the LCD I found thin cotton gloves helped to reduce smudges

    john31 -

    My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!

    Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.

    Mathew Hendry -

    Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.

    damianwise -

    3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!

    Adam McCombs -

    Tape works fine, here. Search for a YouTube video for a simple look-see.

    Richard -

    I didn't have any suction cups, but my pencil sharpener (the kind that suctions to the table) worked great. I put it on the middle and lifted straight up.

    Lisa Mac -

    For a quick 'n' dirty alternative "tool" for this step, take a look at IKEA's Stugvik suction hooks: they provide an excellent adjustable grip. Just used it to take apart an EMC2133. Cheers!

    hadderakk -

    Suction cups usually available at Home Depot or Lowes, in the flooring section. (They're used to handle large ceramic & stone floor tiles.)

    Griff in Fairbanks -

    I can confirm it is fairly easy to pull it up, the heavy duty suction cups were adequate of course, but pretty sure you can do it without heavy duty stuff? Panel is rather light too.

    Julien -

  3. brspUaXYZhvWBhIu

    • Estrarre delicatamente il pannello di vetro dall'iMac.

    • Il pannello di vetro presenta diversi piedini di posizionamento lungo il perimetro. Per evitare di staccare i piedini dal pannello di vetro, fare attenzione a rimuoverlo solo tirando verso l'alto.

    • Pulire con attenzione la parte interna del pannello di vetro e l'LCD, poiché la polvere e le impronte digitali saranno sgradevolmente visibili durante l'accensione del display.

    In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.

    robgendreau -

    While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.

    For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.

    Mathew Hendry -

    Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.

    axel -

    Although I do not advise it, you can substitute the suction cups with two strips of duct tape along the sides of the glass, with the tape attached to it's self in the middle of the strip

    Erin -

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    tuansakong99 -

    Get out of here with your spam.

    Jason Zak -

  4. CNBFg1PCLDsLDteG

    • Rimuovere le 12 viti seguenti, che fissano la mascherina anteriore al case posteriore:

    • Otto viti Torx T8 da 13 mm.

    • Quattro viti Torx T8 da 25 mm.

    On the 24" EMC2134 there are 3 screw sizes: 6x13, 4x20 & 2x30mm, particular note should be made of their location.

    john31 -

    Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.

    TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.

    This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.

    HIH

    Richdave -

    On the 24 inch iMac Model A1225 EMC #2134, the two T8 Torx screws in the middle are the longer of the four total bottom 25 mm screws. Just a note for reassembly.

    bhoffs -

    This step is not really explained here with pictures. But you can check this same step in another guide to help you : Installazione della mascherina anteriore nell'iMac Intel EMC 2266 da 20"

    thibault -

    I'll echo Thibault's comment. This guide does not actually tell you when and/or how to remove the bezel! Click on the other guide he linked to see the photo and instructions.

    steven -

    Make sure you're ram slot at the bottom is open to remove front frame bezel

    edgain99 -

    I think you're missing this step: With the iMac lying on its back screen facing up, grasp the aluminum sides of the bezel and carefully pull it straight up. Then disconnect the microphone cable. Took me a while to figure it out.

    Richard Cacciato -

    I found it helpful to use a few lids from spaghetti sauce jars to hold the different screws. I used a sharpie to mark the inside of the lid w/ location taken from or the step number from directions. Then I placed a small magnet under the lid to hold the screws inside the lid in case I accidentally jostle something on the table. Worked great! You can also use a magnetic knife bar to line up the lids in sequential for the project.

    tom -

    I cut a hardwood block and drew the outline of the the iMac shape with the base as key. I then drew another two lines at 1/2” and 1” all around from the outline. This done I drilled holes for each screw (12 Outer securing the front bezel to the rear case , and 8 Inner screws securing the display panel to the rear case ). That way I don’t lose any or get them mixed up.

    jmadams -

    I think the title of this chapter could be (in french) désinstallation but not Installation with is the contrary. Idem for the other chapters.

    Bertrand Guigaz -

  5. BqQQYMTGV1Fgadp1

    • Metti le mani agli angoli superiori della cornice (di lato) e solleva la cornice a 2-3 cm dal corpo lavorando dall'alto. Dopodiché puoi anche sganciare la parte inferiore della cornice (i moduli di memoria impediranno che la parte inferiore della cornice si stacchi prima). Durante il rimontaggio, inizia con la parte inferiore della cornice.

    • La parte superiore della cornice ospita un microfono collegato alla scheda logica. Solleva delicatamente la cornice per non danneggiare il cablaggio o il connettore del microfono tirando accidentalmente il cavo.

    • A questo punto, puoi staccare il cavo del microfono e rimuovere la cornice, oppure tenere il cavo del microfono attaccato e appoggiare la cornice sul piano di lavoro o sulla scocca del Mac.

    • Per staccare completamente la cornice: scollega il connettore del cavo del microfono, rimuovendo il nastro adesivo se necessario.

    • Per tenerlo collegato, lascia il cavo del microfono collegato alla scheda logica e posiziona la cornice "sopra" la scocca, con il cavo del microfono che forma un cardine.

    • Se tieni il microfono attaccato alla scocca, assicurati di non danneggiare accidentalmente il microfono o la scheda logica urtando la cornice allentata.

    I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.

    robgendreau -

    ^^^ This! This tutorial should be amended for this step. Much, much easier and less damage-prone.

    (There really oughta be a step addressing the removal of the bezel as well.)

    cklarson -

    Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.

    Kyle Freeman -

    CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)

    dagnew -

    Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord

    Melvin Hines -

    As robgendreau says, avoid this whole step by opening the bezel and laying it upside down above the iMac, still connected by the mic cord, just carefully. Then replace the battery, suck/blow out your dust, and carefully rotate the front bezel back over the iMac from where you removed it. No cord manipulation or damage at all!

    recmsoj -

    When reassembling the bezel, you should actually gently pull the microphone connector (and cables) through the ~1 inch long slot in the bezel next to the iSight camera, when lowering the top part of the bezel onto the chassis . Then further lower the bezel onto the chassis of the iMac, while making sure there’s no room / play between the bottom of the bezel and the bottom of the body (where the memory slots reside). . This way you’ll avoid damaging the microphone cable. Finally gently push the microphone wires and connector through that sale long slot in the bezel to conceal them inside the bezel.

    Olivier Biot -

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    tuansakong99 -

    How about no?

    Jason Zak -

    The tutorial video is great, but they were fortunate to have such a long microphone cable to work with. The iMac I just upgraded had a cable on the system side (not the one on the bezel) that is barely long enough to provide enough play to be able to grasp the connectors when re-attaching them.

    Disconnecting the microphone cable is done automatically, when you breathe on it. Or look at it. Or reattach the bezel and get it screwed down.

    However, it should be noted that this connector is a LUXURY compared to the first-gen ("polycarbonate") Intel iMacs. Those come configured with the auto-slice microphone cable: the cable simply shears off during disassembly of the case.

    Boyd Waters -

  6. cn4DSRRECAdL62PQ
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    • Quando si rimonta la cornice:

    • assicurarsi di infilare il cavo del microfono e il connettore nel foro vicino alla scheda della telecamera.

    • Far passare delicatamente il connettore e i cavi del microfono attraverso lo slot lungo 2-3 cm a destra della telecamera iSight. Una volta che la cornice è stata montata correttamente, spingere delicatamente il connettore del microfono e il cavo nella cornice attraverso quella fessura.

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    • Estrarre il connettore del sensore temperatura dell'LCD direttamente dal connettore sulla scheda logica.

    • Se occorre, deviare il cavo del sensore temperatura dell'LCD dalla parte posteriore della scheda logica.

    • Quando rimuovi il pannello LCD, controlla la disposizione del cavo del controllo temperatura del display. Nel rimontare lo schermo, assicurati che questo cavo non blocchi una delle viti inferiori di fissaggio della cornice anteriore.

    This was the most confusing step, because the video shows MJ just tilting the monitor open, and I had a ribbon cable hooked up to it. Finally figured out that the ribbon cable was connected to the LCD temp sensor cable, and it was neatly tucked under the adjacent fan. Had to pull it pretty hard to get it out from under the fan, and then could tilt the LCD. Instructions are not completely clear about this, only that you may have to reroute the cable around the motherboard.

    d3nn151950 -

    I agree, there is no sign of how to remove the bezel (it took me several minutes to understand it was even the bezel that came off here) in these steps (in all the guides for this model, in fact). On step 4 says remove the LCD screws, and suddenly step 6 shows innards and fans etc - !! - What about showing the bezel being removed here - super confusing and not up to usual ifixit high standards.

    hutchwilco -

    If you rush through the reassembly, it's very easy to miss reconnecting the LCD Temp Display cable. I just did it and one of the fans came on full-speed and stayed there through a new macOS install. Did a Google search and found mention of this symptom. At first I was thinking I switched one or more of the inverter cables but this guide shows that this is not a problem. Once I reviewed this step, the problem was obvious as was the solution. Thanks again, iFixit, for saving my nappy behind.

    barryjaylevine -

    I can speak from experience, this cable’s a pain. It came out of where I tucked it and snuck behind one of the bottom screws, which pierced it during reassembly, afterward it would not boot properly. It’ll boot without the cable plugged in, but the fan runs near max. I’m glad it can at least be used while I wait for the replacement cable to ship. What a weird (lazy) design choice from Apple.

    Ian Sprenkle -

    In case the iMac hasn’t been opened for years (typical situation), then you may want to first carefully and prudently remove the piled up dust with a vacuum cleaner and a soft brush. Definitely not with a can of compressed air, as then you’ll spill the debris everywhere (and on the display). Otherwise you won’t be able to get hold of the right cable, connector or screw. In addition, it will help increase the air flow hence reduce heat (and allow the fans to operate at a lower speed).

    Olivier Biot -

    hi could some one help me with this cable replacing as it has been damaged i mean i would like to know if i could repair the wire or simply replace it and also what type of wire i would need and how could i find one please i m new thanks

    kazi

    suhrab kazi -

  8. tDNoZU1Z1bcqbNDP

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T6 da 5,3 mm che fissano il cavo dati del display alla scheda logica.

    My Torx 6 driver purchased from ifixit didn't fit the screws well and potentially would strip them. Had to purchase a better driver to fit better in order to loosen these screws.

    kakisback -

    reinstalling these screws requires extra care to be sure you don't drop it and loose it under any of the other components.

    kakisback -

    Make sure not to drop the screws.

    ulan -

    Removing these screws was the most difficult part of the whole job. They were tight and felt as if the heads were about to chew up. I had to press really hard and jerk the screwdriver counter clockwise to loosen them. Despite others' warnings, I managed to drop a screw when reinserting.

    kevinp -

    The only tool I needed to buy was the T6 Star Bit - the first auto store I went to had it. These screws are tiny so you have to be careful not to drop them!

    James Miles -

    When reinstalling these tiny screws, consider placing the iMac upright. That way when you (inevitably) drop these tiny screws, you don't lose them in the guts of the computer where they are likely to fall into a fan.

    stown1211 -

    Yes, this step is very difficult. I finally used a magnet to magnetize the torx driver, and that helped immensely...however, that was AFTER I lost the right one inside the computer. You really only need one screw to reattach the monitor connector, however.

    d3nn151950 -

    Argh! I dropped my right screw into the bowels of the iMac. I can't find it anywhere and am loath to leave it rattling around as well as to tear down the machine any further.

    steven macfarlane -

    Well, I followed the instructions for right-speaker removal and optical drive fan removal and still couldn't find the right screw. I couldn't hear it rattle either so figured it was wedged somewhere. Using an inspection mirror and flashlight, I finally found it. It had fallen down and wedged between the PCB and the plastic housing (below the ports). I was able to slide it toward the right until it came to the void left by the right speaker where it fell out into my hand.

    steven macfarlane -

    It's true, these were super tight. I only had a T5 which worked on the first screw, but the second wouldn't budge. Ended up filing the tip off the T5 bit - presto! - instant T6.

    marcintosh -

    I Think the real screw size is 3.5 mm T6 Torx, not 5.3 mm

    raul -

    Dropped those little bastards like 2-3 times into the deeps of my iMac. The right one is really tricky. If you drop it: better get yourself very thin tweezers and gently shake your mac. :(

    Popelnase -

    Note that just below where you are working is the PRAM battery. If you have never replaced this, now is a good time so you won't have to open the machine up again in the near future. The battery is a CR2032.

    mattgauntt -

    Taking all the warnings into account about losing these tiny screws, during removal and replacement I held onto the screws tightly with a very fine needle nose tweezer. Fortunately I managed not to lose them either out or in. I highly recommend using a small gripper during this step.

    recmsoj -

    While you have the case open this would be a good time to replace the PRAM battery and carefully clean the fan and interior of the case with Q-tips / compressed air.

    John Fisk -

    These screws are Torx 7 - at least that was what

    I used on them and got a prefect tight fit ... .

    Patrik Albin -

    torx 6 didn't do it, needed torx 7

    nielsdolieslager -

    Torx7 did NOT work for me. Torx6 did.

    pdienstm -

    If you do manage to lose one of these screws, will the cable still be held in properly if you reinstall it with only one?

    Peter Wood -

    Advice / 2 cents : Unscrew/screw with the iMac vertical/propped up and a magnetized screwdriver. Should be no issue. If it falls, it will fall on your desk, not behind stuff on the back of the iMac. You could even put iFixit magnetized mat underneath for added safety :)

    Julien -

  9. ScwTYOXWNchMMunI

    • Utilizzare la linguetta nera per estrarre il connettore del cavo dati del display dalla scheda logica.

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    • Rimuovere le otto viti Torx T8 da 12 mm che fissano il pannello del display al case posteriore.

    • Sollevare il pannello del display dal bordo sinistro e ruotarlo verso il bordo destro dell'iMac.

    I was able to disconnect the two connectors to the front easily. With those off, I just rotated the LCD out of the way to expose the hard drive. Again, make sure it's stabilized if you do this so that when you yank on something else you don't send it flying.

    robgendreau -

    I did a HD replacement on my 24 inch iMac. It's basically the same, but it does not have disconnectable invertercables. Instead, there's just one cable that's can't be disconnected. It sits too tight to rotate the display to the degree that you can lean it against something, so the only way to get the job done was to call in an extra set of hands to hold the display while I took out the hard drive.

    Marijn -

    On the 2134 model, I found that the LCD must be lifted from the RIGHT (not the left as per the 2133 guide) - the connector wires are covered in nylon housing and it's way easier just having someone hold the LCD vertical whilst you replace the HDD, unless you have small fingers and feel like disconnecting completely ...

    simon -

    During reassembly, make sure that the data and temperature cables will reach their sockets before inserting the eight screws.

    kevinp -

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    • Mentre il pannello del display è sollevato, scollegare i quattro cavi dell'inverter.

    • Durante la reinstallazione, posizionare i quattro connettori dei cavi dell'inverter negli spazi vuoti fra i componenti collegati al pannello posteriore per garantire il corretto allineamento del pannello del display.

    • Durante il riassemblaggio, è possibile inserire i cavi dell'inverter nei rispettivi connettori femmina in qualsiasi ordine.

    • Se devi sostituire il disco fisso e hai un paio di mani supplementari, puoi accedere al disco e rimuoverlo senza scollegare nulla tranne i connettori della temperatura dell'LCD e quella del display come al passo precedente con l'LCD sollevato.

    Make sure to not squeeze the inverter-cables between the superdrive and the display when putting the display back on !

    epzzky -

    This was the only step different for my 2134 - it is just one cable that connects to the monitor - disconnect the monitor end rather than the motherboard side.

    Jim Laredo -

    There is no need to discnnect the inverter cables if display is positioned against a wall or something of the sort. Make sure it doesn't tumble over !!!

    info5825 -

    For 24" iMacs, a single power cable is attached on the left side of the screen. To remove the cable, lift the screen from the right side and rotate it to the left. Remove the black plastic protector on the back of the screen and disconnect the cable.

    Matt Stichnoth -

    Make sure you squeeze the two ends of the inverter cable together firmly - if not you will get yellow areas on your screen. One of my cables had not quite been clicked together, and I had to unscrew everything all over again.

    Philip -

    So does it matter which ones are connected to which?

    That is, at each end there are two connectors (one pink/black the other light blue/dark blue on the "male" side). The "female side appear identical. Does it matter if the pink/black "male" one is connected to the wrong "female" one?

    Mark Gibson -

    Mark, did you ever get an answer about the connectors?

    Mike -

    Agreed this is an unspecified issue and i'm surprised it's not covered? Did everyone else just guess?

    kainatticus -

    Yes, mark each female end in a way that distinguishes itself from the other. I put “P” on the harnesses with the pink wires and “B” on the harnesses with the blue wires.

    steven -

    So let’s say hypothetically I didn’t label them as I failed to notice that they were identical before disconnection. What should I do to resolve this issue?

    Christian Moore -

    Managed to avoid this step just lifting the lcd panel and holding it with my... head ;)

    Antonio Bernardini -

    Yes, I agree. If you just prop the panel up on the left (carefully!) with your head, or as I used a box, or get a friend to hold it up, this step can be bypassed. It is a tight squeeze inside to work with getting the HD in and out but its totally do-able. If using an SSD, which of course you should, you can just tape it down inside, as they weigh almost nothing.

    Jed Weaver -

    I'm trying to find some information on replacing the power supply temperature sensor cable. Mine broke during removal of a bad power supply.

    Mike Overholt -

    Re: Scorps comment above - I got the “beeping” too. Does anyone know how to resolve it, i.e. identify which goes with which? Other than trying every combination?

    mchlgrblsk -

    My screen is just Grey? anyone else have this happen?

    Michael McGuire -

    After replacing iMac’s HDD with a new one I’ve got white screen with vertical black and bluish bands on the left side and two horizontal lines dividing the display into three equal parts (see the image). Any idea what that might be?

    Andrey -

    I tagged the inverter cables with different color sharpies so as to get them connected back the way they were.

    Macrepair SF -

    Step 9…. before I took those tiny screws out for the data display cable on the logic board, I put the tip of the torx tool on a magnet (magnets on the front cover worked fine) for a few minutes. this magnetizes the screws so you are less likely to drop them when you go to put them back in.

    dkkd -

    I replaced the internal hard drive. worked fine. putting everything back together, the CD drive wont insert or eject discs when I tighten the screws on the right side that holds the display in place, or when I put the cover back on. CDs work fine if I leave the screws loose and/or leave the cover off. cant figure out why, i never touched the CD drive at all…

    anyone else have this issue after opening the unit up, and how did u fix it?

    dkkd -

    This happened to me and I found that a cable that had been wrapped around the side of the DVD drive had slid over top of it while I had it open. When I closed it all up, the pressure of the cable against the surface of the DVD drive was enough to impact it. I reopened the machine and pushed the cable back around the side of the DVD drive and it worked fine.

    John Moltz -

    The ‘locking tab’ faces the dot. I placed a label on main body side of the lcd connector with a P =Pink and B =Blue. This way I know to place the connector with the pink on the marked P and blue on the marked B.

    egecko -

    I went with the option of not detaching the screen. I have horror stories around inverters, mostly on notebooks, but still, don’t approach/touch if you don’t have to.

    Ask your wife/somebody to hold the screen while you go through the steps below, without detaching the cables in step 11. It is a couple minute to step 18 and having the drive out.

    Julien -

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    • Se occorre, rimuovere i pezzi di nastro che fissano i cavi del sensore termico dell'unità ottica o del disco rigido all'iMac.

    Pull the temperature sensor cable for the optical drive well out of the way so you don't trap it when inserting the new hard drive.

    kevinp -

  13. 5tyrG1RUmZlBOdry

    • Scollegare il sensore termico del disco rigido estraendone il connettore verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.

    • Durante la rimozione del connettore, può essere utile premere con i pollici le linguette sui lati del connettore verso la parte superiore dell'iMac.

    I didn't do this on my 2133; just pushed wires out of the way.

    robgendreau -

    Rather than disconnect this cable, you might as well jump ahead to steps 19-21 and remove the sensor from the drive.

    kevinp -

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    • La pressione della parte superiore della staffa del disco rigido per sbloccarla dal case posteriore richiede una buona dose di forza. Si consiglia di poggiare l'iMac con la staffa rivolta verso il basso su un tavolo per evitare urti e danni.

    • Premere la staffa del disco rigido verso il bordo inferiore dell'iMac per liberarla dal case posteriore, quindi ruotare la parte dell'unità verso di sé.

    At first it looked like it needed extra force, rather stand the computer in its stand press the bracket firmly it will come out.

    Great set of instructions altogether!

    Jim Laredo -

    I just braced the foot/stand against my thigh and found there wasn't much force needed. Had to do it twice as I missed the foam pad on the drive I was replacing.

    The whole process was simpler than I expected.

    I seem to have missed something somewhere as I now have a lot more fan activity than before. A missed sensor connection maybe. Not looking forward to tracking it down.

    paul beard -

    I worked with the top of the screen facing me. It was very easy to brace my fingers and press with my thumbs to release the drive. I recommend doing it that way if you can.

    marcintosh -

    I just used pliers….. Easy!

    Dennis Postma -

  15. VMitQPmVMd4qFbyA
    VMitQPmVMd4qFbyA
    42RQbCnZhAmVhvFi

    • Ruotare il disco rigido verso di sé, quindi sollevarlo dai piedini di montaggio.

    • Il disco rigido è ancora collegato mediante i cavi SATA.

    • Durante la reinstallazione del disco rigido, fare attenzione a non premere gli anelli di tenuta in gomma attraverso le aperture del case con i piedini inferiori del disco rigido, poiché per recuperarli potrebbe essere necessario rimuovere la scheda logica.

    During reassembly make sure not to trap the cable for the temperature sensor on the superdrive -- it goes on top of the new hard drive.

    kevinp -

  16. J2JseEWMkmZ2IWZR

    • Inserire l'estremità piatta di un inseritore fra il connettore del cavo di alimentazione SATA e il bordo del disco rigido.

    • Ruotare l'inseritore per separare il connettore dal disco rigido.

  17. cmr5VJFpvLHAoe2W

    • Estrarre il connettore SATA di alimentazione dal disco rigido.

  18. HrqNAt5KIAqbaXQb

    • Scollegare il cavo dati SATA estraendone il connettore dal disco rigido.

  19. YgBpXnbmgRJMS3Hk

    • Rimuovere la porzione di nastro in schiuma che copre il sensore termico del disco rigido.

  20. veWMQWOYNUDUMkis
    veWMQWOYNUDUMkis
    hZXFlKIFxgZDect6

    • Mediante la punta di uno spudger, sollevare l'aletta di blocco del sensore termico, tirando leggermente il cavo di quest'ultimo.

    • Se il sensore termico è incastrato sulla superficie del disco rigido, andare al passaggio successivo.

    These instructions were awesome! I replaced my hard drive on my iMac in about 1 hour. I would add compressed air and good quality double sided tape to the tools required. I had to leave everything open, and go out to buy these because most of the tape inside was no longer sticky.

    cello2 -

  21. P5cqD2RokICI3E55

    • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovere la staffa del sensore termico dalla superficie del disco rigido.

    • In caso di sostituzione del disco rigido, trasferire la staffa e il sensore termico nella nuova unità. Se durante la reinstallazione l'adesivo non aderisce, applicare un pezzo di nastro biadesivo nella parte inferiore delle due linguette piatte della staffa del sensore termico.

    Be careful what kind of tape you use. The adhesive used in standard clear tape (especially cheap stuff) can soften when it gets warm causing the sensor to come unstuck.

    I used three strips of duct tape - one either side of the sensor and another over the whole thing, being sure it was flush around all the edges.

    Mathew Hendry -

    I found that a small pocket knife with a very thin blade worked well to gently pry one corner of the temperature sensor assembly - once that started to come up, I used the plastic spudger to finish prying it up.

    John Fisk -

  22. FtpBgbB5FppFACAZ

    • Rimuovere le due viti Torx T8 che fissano la staffa del disco rigido a quest'ultimo.

    • Dopo aver rimosso le due viti, la staffa del disco rigido sarà libera da quest'ultimo.

    • Non dimenticare di trasferire questi componenti alla nuova unità.

    I replaced the Seagate hard drive from my 20" iMac with a Kingston SSD (HyperX 3K 120GB). The Kingston came with a 3.5" adapter that is suited for replacement in a hard drive bay of a standard ATX tower or similar. Unfortunately, the adapter included with my SSD does not have suitable spacing for attachment to the hard drive bracket used to secure a standard sized drive into place.

    For me, it was necessary to attach the SSD to the included adapter and then attach a single screw from the iMac bracket plus one of the Torx pins. As such, my adapter and SSD would pivot -- they are not held securely in place. Since the SSD is not mechanical and should not vibrate like a traditional drive, I felt this was adequate. I could have also used tape or similar to hold it in place. Just be forewarned that the distance between the Torx pins is rather long -- you might face similar challenges when using a smaller 2.5" drive + adapter in your replacement.

    anonymous 7237 -

    I had no problem figuring this out. I have never worked on a computer before and had only an idea of what I was getting myself into. I watched the video first and then decided I could do this. I LOVE THIS SITE! I would suggest having compressed air to clean out the inside of the computer, mine was really nasty. I would also suggest using small containers to keep the screws separate or sticky notes that you can label with screw sizes it made putting things back much quicker.

    aliciakelly2112 -

  23. WZEFOKqtuENPjbOU

    • Rimuovere i due piedini Torx T8 dal lato del connettore del disco rigido.

    • Non dimenticare di trasferire questi componenti alla nuova unità.

  24. QqRjPkfPEblIVBre

    • Mediante l'estremità piatta di uno spudger, rimuovere le parti di schiuma EMI dal lato inferiore del disco rigido.

    • Non dimenticare di trasferire il componente alla nuova unità.

    • Se stai installando un nuovo disco fisso, abbiamo una guida di installazione OS X per aiutarti a tornare rapidamente al lavoro.

    Why is this necessary? What is the purpose of this EMI foam part? I replaced the Hard Disk with a SSD. Is it a protection because of the vibrations?

    seb -

    Since it’s covered with a metal mesh, I think it makes electrical contact with something.

    If your SSD is plastic, you should really use copper foil or something to make sure whatever this part touches is ‘earthed’.

    ericdrummond -

    This would make sense, since the original hard disk is entirely electrically insulated from the chassis: the plastic bracket at the top insulates it from the top and back of the chassis, while the bottom screw-on pins fit into rubber grommets, again isolating the chassis.

    However, when using a SSD, I see no reason for grounding the SSD to the back of the LCD with this bit of conducting foam.

    I would definitely use this conducting foam on a conventional hard disk as it is more prone to generating leak current through the chassis.

    Olivier Biot -

    Some parts were unnecessary to takeoff

    cngdoon -

    After having opened mine W8804D65X86 of which everymac says :

    "standard storage: 320 GB HDD Std. Storage Speed: 7200 RPM

    Details: A 500 GB Serial ATA hard drive also was available by custom configuration."

    I seen to remember looking at the HD connector that it did not look like SATA , could it be they also fitted (P)ATA with a miniaturized replacement for the 40 pin connectors ?

    Anyone ideas ? The disk signals imminent SMART failure Disk utility refuses to First aid it.

    and while typing this I ran First aid again to copy and paste the error message here ...
    and wonders still seem to happen. First aid OK . I threw away 1 of the may partitions and partitioning also worked !

    I will still post it to hear about the connector , which I did not take of the disk for at the time of my opening the 20" it was just for cleaning and the hard-disk warning came only a week later .

    So thanks for reading -and possibly answering- this .

    Ciao, bart koens

    bart.koens@gmx.com

    Belgium

    solos -

Conclusione

Per riassemblare il dispositivo, segui queste istruzioni in ordine inverso.

Autore

Walter Galan

693762 Reputazione

81 commenti

Great instructions - used them for my 2134 model. Only difference is on Step 9 - see comments on that step.

Jim Laredo -

Great directions. The 250 GB Segate in my 2133 failed SMART (two years old) so I replaced it with a 1TB WD Blue drive.

kevinp -

Wonderful guide. I used it to replace a dead drive in my wife's 24" iMac. Installed a WD Caviar Black 2 TB. I'm jealous because her system now runs faster than mine ;-P.

Here is another reason to DIY this repair, while Apple's labor fee is reasonable, their warranty policy for repairs is not. If you have a new drive installed at the Apple store, your warranty on the drive is only 90 days. Worse yet, the drives are Apple branded, so you can't go to the hard drive manufacturer if the drive fails on day 91.

Mr Mike -

The two screws in step 8, page 3 are T7 - not T6. Apart from that, excellent guide!

Gunnar Hoffsten -

When first starting with my OS (Snow Leopard) disk all I got was a whitish or gray screen, not even the mouse. So I started freaking out a bit. I couldn't get the key board to stay on so I kept pushing the keyboard power button while holding the option button and then the mouse arrow came up on the screen. After that the apple sign and then the install procedure started, so I was able to breathe again. So about five in the morning I was able to let it do it's thing and get some sleep. The next day I was able to restore from the external hard drive using Time Machine and so far my IMac 20" 7,1 #2133 is running super fast again probably better than when I got it brand new " if that's possible ". With your instructions on I fixit.com and your videos on YouTube it was pretty darn easy, even for someone like me who has never worked on a computer. The most I've done on a computer I installed a new program (Snow Leopard). Thank you, Tom D.

thcdineen -

You can install a Seagate Momentus XT 500GB Hybrid SSD in this iMac without issues.

https://plus.google.com/u/0/108374099338...

Steven Hanlon -

Instructions worked like a charm on my 24" 2134 (taking into account reader's contributions for Step 9). Someone suggested covering the LCD with clingfilm ("Saranwrap") and this is an awesome idea. I was able to have a helper hold the panel while I worked on the hard drive and got no dust or fingerprints on it at all.

A tip if you are replacing the stock hard drive with an SSD: install the SSD onto its carrier so it'll fit in the space left by the hard drive before starting so your helper doesn't have the opportunity to be sarcastic while waiting for you to do it in the middle of the build :-)

Bozo Z Clown -

Absolutely fantastic faultless guide. Thanks so much! I succesfully installed a Western Digital 2TB SATA drive to my mac to replace our completely failed drive. I had absolutely no issues, although I could have done with some double sided tape to secure some of the sponge (use ordinary tape doubled over in the end.

I also found 2 ordinary suction cups fromone of those little pull down sun blinds in the car were sufficient to pull the screen off.

All now up and running, fresh install of snow leopard and ilife downloading as I write.

Cant tell you how happy I am to have it all up and working again for just the price of the drive (bought from amazon) and some RAM as why not max it out (Crucial memory)

Thanks Ifixit

Sam -

This step by step is very complete. Be aware that if you are replacing a hard drive with an SSD type and this one is 2.5-in, you will need a mounting bracket or live in shame by using mounting tape.

Gil Lopez -

Great instructions.

Tip: I sorted all the screws into shot glasses and put little pieces of masking tape near them with the number of the step they correspond to.

Also - Got a cheap set of Torx screwdrivers on amazon, and they turned out to be terrible. Poorly precisioned tips and I had to get a decent set to get the job done. They were just not catching the screws. There was a $4.99 Kobalt "8 in 1" set I got a Lowes that was a much better deal, considering the ones I got were equally priced on Amazon.

Chris Scala -

Best instructions I've found. The entire process turned out to take less than 1 1/2 hours. The only issue I had, like some others, was the tools I had at hand. Once I bought myself a better quality Torx set this went off without a hitch. Thank you for the help! Special thanks to Chris Scala for his tip about separating the screws with shot glasses. I'm taking that tip with me everywhere I go from now on. Worked like a charm!

David Moorhead -

Wonderful guide! The instructions were spot on. Thank-you!

stillday -

I have a 500GB hard drive in my 20" (replaced by APPLE during AppleCare). Is there a way to add an SSD to the mix? Much like the video for the late 2011 iMac - putting a second SSD drive behind the optical drive?

Or should I just replace the HD with a smaller SSD and use external storage for iTunes etc.?

Also, with this iMac being so limited in RAM (4GB Max, yes?) Is it worth spending the money and time to upgrade the HD to SSD?

I look forward to hearing your thoughts.

http://about.me/DwaineStroud

Dwaine Stroud -

This is an old post, but in case anyone has the same questions:

-Is there a way to add an SSD to the mix? Much like the video for the late 2011 iMac - putting a second SSD drive behind the optical drive?

The hard drive can be replaced with an SSD. There is another guide that shows how to replace the DVD drive with a hard drive.

-Or should I just replace the HD with a smaller SSD and use external storage for iTunes etc.?

That is what I did. I moved my iTunes library to an external drive so a smaller hard drive would be OK.

-Also, with this iMac being so limited in RAM (4GB Max, yes?) Is it worth spending the money and time to upgrade the HD to SSD?

You can actually go to 6GB of RAM. Go to macsales.com and find the RAM options for your model. You should see an option to put in a 4GB and 2GB stick. I have this is my mid-2007 20" iMac. As far as the SSD, I think it makes a huge difference. Startup time went from 1.5 min to 30 seconds. Launching apps is way faster. I am happy I did the upgrade.

mattgauntt -

This really was a disaster for me. The 2008 iMac 2210 was much more difficult to open, and I almost ruined the computer. I spent well over 3 hours just trying to work the instructions, and I am pretty handy with computers. I finally quit, and tried to follow the instructions to just quit, and when trying to restart, dead. I opened it again, rechecked everything, turned it on, and had a bad monitor picture (low resolution). Third time, rechecked everything again, and it worked, but the monitor now has a slight red shadow tint on one side of the monitor. So, never got the HDD installed, I'm returning it, and probably wind up buying a new Mac Mini. Be careful! And be willing to lose your computer, or pay to have it restored by a professional.

d3nn151950 -

A couple of general tips, based on my experience taking this thing apart twice in two days.

As noted above, the case is plastic, not metal, so you can strip out or misalign the screws if things aren't lined up, particularly the 8 T8s around the display. I used my T6 to align the ears on the display with the screw sockets by gently putting it down the adjacent hole and levering the display so the hole I was working with lined up. You only need to do this once on each side. Once one screw is seated, the others on that side should be lined up.

I was missing my extra pair of hands today so I had to reattach the inverter cables solo. I found it was easier from the top, which was made easy by the fact I was working on a table and could easily get around to the other side. Might just be a question of handedness (I'm a righty) or perhaps I'm just uncoordinated.

paul beard -

I took mine apart a second time to track down why the fan was constantly running at a high speed. I reseated the sensor cables, retaped the sensor to the hard drive, and it persisted. Then I ran the Apple Hardware Test (comes with it on DVD or might be installed) and it showed a bad sensor. I then went for the longer test, got tired waiting for it to complete, restarted, and the noise was gone. Maybe the test reset it? I did an SMC reset to be doubly sure and installed SSDFanControl in case it acts up again.

paul beard -

Your guides are excellent. I was able to resurrect my iMac hardware rather easily. The videos take the fear out of opening the sacred box. Getting the software to work was another thing. Very tedious but worth the effort.

Thanks,

Phillip Madonia -

I have just replaced the original hard drive in my iMac 2133 (320 GB) with a brand new 1TB hybrid disk from Seagate (ST1000DX001). I also replaced the PRAM battery.

The guide was very helpful and the replacement was not difficult.

markp -

Will the ST1000DX001 work in Early 2009 24" iMac Core 2 Duo? I just purchased one on Amazon and now I'm frantically searching to find out if it will be compatible :-/

Joshua Rountree -

This guide is not exactly precise for the iMac 24" MA878LL 7,1. There are some differences on the connections of the thermal sensors to the Hard Drive. I find it is not necessary to also disconnect the Thermal sensor from the board location only on the drive so as to move it to the new drive. Reassembly did not go well as far as the microphone cable connection. Whatever did not re-connect as expected did NOT result in a functioning internal microphone. The external input functions with a separate microphone, but the internal is dead. It could be software/driver malfunction or the fact that the tiny miniscule connections at the bezel are so delicate that it will no longer function, even after taking the bezel off 2 more times to insure the connection is correct and using electrical tape to keep the delicate connectors together. Wishing you better 'luck' than I had with this process.

xxx -

I was able to successfully install the new HD I purchased from ifixit.com however once I started up my computer and attempted to install my Apple OS10 Snow I was not able to choose the new HD for installation because my imac does not see the new HD. Any advice or help will be greatly appreciated.

Joe Raats -

This may be too late now, but look at the link at step 24 (OSX install guide). It tells you what to do.

Lisa Mac -

Thank you so much!!! I have used your site for other things like 3Ds, iPhone repair, etc. My computer broke, and I had no idea what was wrong with it, but I knew that once I could figure out the problem, I would be able to fix it. It took me a while to figure out what was wrong with my computer (I also just put it to the side and forgot about it). Thanks to your site I followed these instructions, paid $50 for a hard drive, and now it is working perfectly. I feel like I got a new computer for $50! Thanks so much. I will always be a devoted fan!! You have saved me tons of money over the years with the other items I have fixed. Thanks again!

Lisa Mac -

Great Guide! Worked perfectly. Installed an SSD, just used a full sized and strong 2.5inch to 3.5 inch converter. Works great - like a new computer!

FastFig Demo -

I found that after removing the screws holding the display, you can lift the top of the display and unhook the top to two connectors you can lift the display then prop it up and remove and replace the drive without disconnecting the lower items.

Ralph Lewis -

I concur comments about T6 on Step 8. I have a quality set of Torx bits and the T6 is much too small. The T7 fit perfectly. This isn't a matter of Apple using two different size screws in assembly. It is a matter of the Law of Tolerances, which those with machining experience would know about. I would amend the Tools Required and add T7 (in some instances).

David Larson -

Really great guide! I ordered the Pro tool kit from iFixit and it was worthy every penny, I just wish that I would've gotten it sooner.

bryanstepney -

I did it and it took me quite a while. However, this was exclusively because the SSD 2,5 to 3,5" bracket did not fit well. I spend a lot of time finding alternatives and even trying to get SATA extension cables.

In the end I decided to agree with anonymous on Sept 26 2012: a pivoting SSD is good enough. Now installing and everything is going fine.

Really happy with the instructions and tools that I bought from iFixit. Next up: 27" iMac, fitting a secondary drive in there is what I am up to. Yay!

Pim -

Careful - I followed this recipe very closely and my 2007 iMac is basically toast now. I posted the details here and according to the responses, it's most likely the graphics card. I don't see how I could have damaged that with this recipe but it worked before I opened the iMac and replaced the HDD and I can't get it (the iMac in general, I can't be certain it's the card) to work at all since.

iMac won't start after HDD replacement - no chime, black screen, DVD

rhubarb -

The HDD of my iMac crashed & needed to get it to a data recovery service. They said they only took the drives. A work colleague advised this site saying their instructions were straight forward & gave realistic expectations. I was surprised to find the tools required at my local hardware store. The steps were straight forward and I now have my data recovered. Thank you.

Paul Lukabyo -

As with any technical project, especially for first-timers like me (first time opening up a "laptop" type of technology like the iMac), a key ingredient is reading through the instructions once or twice before opening up the machine. You want to position yourself mentally before you position yourself physically! The instructions are great, one or two maybe superfluous in some cases. But in the end I have a 2008 iMac 20" with a 250 GB SSD (Toshiba) that performs many routine tasks better than my new iMac at work. I'm really happy with the results! Well worth the small amount of money and effort required.

Keith Gardner -

Great guide, easy to follow. But... I had an issue.

After reassembling my iMac, there was no display! Seemed to be running, but nothing on the display. After taking it apart and checking my connections, back together - still no display.

On closer observation, though, the display is on -- but the back light is not. By point a flashlight at the LCD, the desktop can be seen, but no backlight. I double checked the inverter cables, and they are hooked up properly.

I wonder if I damaged the LCD temperature sensor and this is causing the computer to turn off the backlighting, but this is just a guess.

Any ideas?

LITTLEMIRANDA -

Perfect instructions! Just did it today with a help of a friend on an old mid 2007 iMac, replaced the failing 320Gb with 1Tb Seagate. Thanks!

mishaikin -

Excellent Guide, I had a little hold up between step 4 and 5. The front bezel didn't seem to be budging, and I didn't want to force something that shouldn't be forced. I flipped the unit on it face ( putting cloth down first!) so I could see the seam. But as the other commenters add, do not pull apart fast and furious, so as to not break the microphone wire. With a little patience and perseverence, the bezel came apart nicely.

Brian Gill -

I just did this upgrade on my mid-2007 20" iMac. Not too difficult if you take your time. I replaced the 320GB HD with a Crucial MX100 256GB solid state drive. I used the Newer Technology AdaptaDrive 2.5" to 3.5" Drive Converter Bracket and it fit everything perfectly. I would recommend this upgrade for anyone willing to open this machine up. There is a huge difference. My startup time (in Yosemite) went from a minute and a half to thirty seconds. Launching apps is significantly faster. Very worth the time and money.

mattgauntt -

Guide and Video especially useful, i did not replace with regular HDD, but instead went for 128GB SSD. which since there is no way to secure a small SSD to the current HDD housing, i used sticky-tape to stick it in. Other then that the guides help alot, the key is to relax and be confident, as it looks more scary then it actually is. good luck..

Farid Mohd Ismail -

Perfect instructions. Thanks!

Jeffrey Green -

I also had difficulty installing a 2.5" SDD using a Sabrent 2.5" SSD & SATA hard drive to desktop 3.5" bay bracket. The cables inside the iMac are just long enough for the original 3.5" drive and not long enough to reach a 2.5" drive in this particular bracket. I had to settle with an SSD held into the bracket at an angle with two screws. Somewhat shameful, but it's not going anywhere anyway.

nickmalmquist -

First time I open a camputer ! And that was not so hard ! I had no problem, and changed my hard drive for a hybrid one.

Juste take it easy,

Thank you !

Cantou -

I actually swapped drives...with a mid-2007 20" and a mid-2011 21.5" iMac...the newer iMac runs rings around the older 20" speed-wise, but I fear that because the drive is not Western Digital like the original inside the 21.5", that's why the fans run pretty much non-stop now...I can put it to sleep, and the fans quit for a while, but eventually they start up again, and they can be fairly distracting in a quiet room...either have to replace the drive with one that has the internal temp sensor, or live with the fan noise...

fhussar -

I change the old hard disk in my iMac 2008, 20" to a new SSD and I can recommend to use this SSD frame http://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech... it's from MacSales, it's perfect for this job, and don't worry about the thermal sensor, just put it on the metal on the SSD and your iMac fan will NOT spine like crazy, but your old iMac will work faster, thats what I felt. :o)

Robert Celander -

Robert, how did you install the OS on the new drive? I have a bootable OSX El Capitan on a flash drive, but when I turned on the Imac holding down the option key the IMac would not go beyond a white screen. Any suggestions based on your experience. I am also replacing the 320GB with a 500 SSD.

Pablo Guerrero -

Awesome, thanks! I followed these instructions as a total noob and was able to extract my data from my 'sleeping beauty' iMac. I've since followed another guide to replace the power supply and my iMac is good as new :)

Mumoth -

Fabulous guide!

Used this for my mid-2009 (EMC 2316) 20" iMac - upgraded to a Samsung 500 GB EVO SSD drive. *Just* finished: took about an hour and a half in toto. Just a couple suggestions:

- you'll have the case open: replace the 3V "button" battery while you're in there: it takes 30 seconds and it's done

- have a can of compressed air handy: you can use it to gently clean out the dust, which will have accumulated on the fan blades over time

- I used Carbon Copy Cloner to clone the HD->SSD drive; it worked almost flawlessly: Google Drive needed to be re-synced (easy). Don't forget to deactivate any software that will complain with a change of HD.

- keep in mind that the process is a bit tedious at times: do this when you are rested and have plenty of time; I propped up a laptop with the iFixIt page next to my iMac as I worked on it and this worked well

John Fisk -

It was great to have a guide to follow, though the instructions ended up being more detailed than necessary. You don't have to unplug all that stuff that is attached to the back of the LCD. The less unplugging the better. We merely unplugged the mic cable to remove the bezel, and the two cable in the top right corner (mark them with a sharpie!), then for the LCD you can carefully tilt the top edge up and brace it up (we used two pencils) like a car hood. Then you'll have just enough space to "get under the hood" and access the hard drive from the top area. You might need to be a little more careful so as not to bump any components, but it's worked better than unplugging. Went back together like a charm! Thanks for the intro though!

KHX -

I used the guide to replace a broken HD on a 20" 2008 iMac with a 2TB hard drive. The pictures, video, and all of the comments were very helpful. I purchased the tools and the new HD from ifixit. The comments helped to give me the best way to do the entire repair. Everything from wearing cotton gloves when handling the glass, which particular screws are longer, moving the temp sensor, not losing screws(magnetized the screwdriver), to using compressed air to clean the screen before re-assembly, helped to make the repair go flawlessly. I also upgraded the RAM to to 2GB in each slot. You can go up to 6 using a 4GB in the right slot, but 4 works for me. I upgraded to 10.7 Lion. Works like a charm.

Thanks to fixit!!

John Jewitt -

I have used this guide for the second time. Fantastic. Thanks.

Phillip Madonia -

Great directions! Thank you for the assistance. This is a very easy repair. No one should be worried, if you follow the directions. A few things. Don't rely on the Command + R or Command + Option+R to get your operating system back. Make a bootable usb and get a wired keyboard. It looks daunting, but with Drivemaker X, the drive is EASY to make and you won't go insane when your computer won't boot. Last thing. The mount makes a difference. I had to really mess with mine to make it work. The connectors don't line up and there isn't any "play" in the wiring at all. Again, do yourself a favor and make sure your adapter is correct before you start. That being said, the actual fix was easy and fun. Made a HUGE difference in speed. Don't need a new computer now. EVO drive is great!

peterwrose -

Great guide thanks.

two comments:

on my A1224 EMC 2210 it was T 10 (not T 8) and T 6: the T8 could work but it was loose.

Remark: the four screws at the bottom are longer is is important to mention. as well the screws for the display have a large edge the one on the panel are countersunk screws.

Lastly in addition to the tools I would have recommended an air duster, and since it is open it may be wise to replace the CR 2032.

tx again

Fred

fredgiac -

Fantastic guide. I'd never disassembled an imac before. My old early 2008 imac had become very sluggish. Now, with a 6GB memory and a new 480GB ssd bought from ifixit, it is thoroughly rejuvenated (I am typing on it now!) Two things I'd like to encourage: (1) don't forget to make a bootable usb or drive before you start. Just having a time-machine backup is not enough. I had long ago disposed of my lion startup disk, and was surprised to discover that I could not just restore from my time-machine backup. Fortunately, I had an old boot disk in Maverick, which was enough to get things going (albeit a bit convoluted) . (2) Perhaps the guide could add a few steps about the installation of an SSD into the frame that fits where the old hitachi hard drive was located. E.g - some pictures showing where to stick the thermal sensor (answer: directly on the top of the SSD). I wasn't able to find directions for this on the ifixit site. Highly recommend this upgrade.

coleman -

Where exactly on the ssd do I put the thermal detector thing? and will the fan be messed up now?

dan -

Done. Replaced an apple replaced HD(Factory fitted one died) turns out that the Apple "Genius" that fitted the last one pinched the microphone cable, not that it used.

I did somethings different I flipped the outer casing so there no need to disconnect the mic cable, and held the LCD tilted up with my head as i removed /replaced HD as i have no friends :(.

So now its fitted with a hybrid HD, Thank you Ifixit!

Paul keithley -

I want to buy a 1TB hard drive, you can help to makes and models of hard drives

Marthen -

Didn't have a T6 driver, but was able to complete the job without it by carefully lifting and holding the screen. Put a 320 GB HDD in an old 2007 model that the stock 250 GB HDD crapped on. Using a USB installer created with the "createinstallmedia" method from a working 2008 iMac running El Capitan, I am currently sitting looking at a screen saying "preparing to install." This method works!

Travis Hayes -

Splendid, my 2008 now has two TB's to play with. I loved the quick tutorial post followed by the detailed instructions. The young lady was so clever and well suited for the camera. The instructions were spot on. The pictures were well done and the wording clear and concise. I haven't seen such professional help on the internet as this.

Thank You!

Mellany Cheung -

you can install a hard disk ssd?

salvo_25 -

This guide is missing a crucial step between 5 & 6: removing the aluminium case. This step is included in a similar guide, for the newer model.

See Sostituzione Disco Fisso nell'iMac Intel EMC 2266 da 20" - step 5.

with kind regards

Jonathan

Jonathan DB -

Great guide thanks. But is it possible to add a new step to explain that is necessary to format the new drive before replacing it.

Tim -

If you are planning on installing a "clean" SSD (or HDD), which means the new hard drive has nothing on it (straight out of the box), then you need to make a bootable USB image on a flashdrive with the El Capitan Installer. Instructions for that: https://www.lifewire.com/create-bootable....

This was the only glitch with my upgrade of my early 2008 20" iMac's HDD to SSD. (No complaints about the actual ifixit guide. On it as usual!)

Alexander Davis -

Great Step By Step Video.. Very Thorough ... Just need help with one thing... I replaced the 320 gb orginal hard drive to a 500gb, now the Mac 2133 is not showing me anything but the question mark folder/ or just the cursor... PLEASE HELP!

JOEY RAMOS -

You will see that until the drive is formatted. Do you have an installer disk? You may be able to slide by if you can get to your recovery partition. Try holding down [Command] + [R] to get to that. You'll probably need someone to send you an El Capitan [.app] file. Shoot me an email at billyk650@gmail.com if you need that, since I'm pretty sure the App Store no longer allows you to download it if your device is running OS X Sierra.

William Kleinhomer -

Added a 1TB SSD. I half *ssed putting the hard drive in though. I didn't have a 2.5" to 3.5" mount, so it is just hot glued to the back of the case LOL

William Kleinhomer -

Instructions, photos, and videos were SO helpful! I feel like a pro!

Jane Pearson -

You guys & gals are awesome. Keep up the excellent work helping us small guys out in the field. Thanks!!!

Jeff -

I bough a hard drive from this site http://17oxen.com/best-external-hard-dri... upon the request of someone but all wasted, now i am looking for a best and cheaper drive.

Quotes pleasure -

Decent enough guide if you're careful and somewhat familiar with computer hardware. Only issue I came across was the Orico caddy for my SSD wouldn't take the screws from the old HDD. So for the latch part, I cut off the rubber grommets so I could use the screws that came with it. An SSD isn't mechanical therefore they aren't required. The pegs on the other side were a different matter, so I just left them off. You can get the latch part to engage just to enough to keep it in place. The SSD is lighter and smaller, so with a bit of luck it should stay put. I may address this when I go back in to swap the optical drive for a secondary HDD. Just not sure how…

Neil Moriarty -

I don’t claim to be a computer expert. The opposite is probably true. I needed to remove the hard drive from my iMac intel computer before I disposed of the computer. Following your fantastic step by step instructions, even I looked like I knew what I was doing. Everything went smoothly. The hard drive is now removed. Thank you for saving me from looking like a frustrated computer idiot!

Michael -

I need some advice about replacing a 320GB HD with a 500 SSD for my Imac mid-2007. The SSD drive doesn’t require a thermal sensor. What do you do with the sensor that is attached to the original HD? Do you reconnect it and tape it back on the body of the SSD drive?

I have made a bootable OSX El Capitan Flash Drive. What is the sequence for formatting and getting the SSD drive loaded with OSX EL Capitan? Does one plug in the Flash Drive and start the IMac holding the Option key?

I would be grateful for experienced advice.

Pablo Guerrero -

SSDs have built-in S.M.A.R.T. temperature sensors that OSX doesn’t use.

You could set it up two ways:

1) Re-attach the Apple sensor to the SSD. OSX will take charge of everything as usual.

2) Download ‘SSDfanControl’ from https://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/

That can use either the Apple sensor or the SMART sensor inside the SSD.

You can tweak temperature and fan r.p.m. limits.

Beware there are bugs !

https://discussions.apple.com/thread/807...

Beware that if you break or choose to remove the old Apple sensor, anyone re-installing OSX in future will be stuck with a noisy fan, unless they learn about SSDfanControl!

ericdrummond -

Do I need the OS disk to reinstall?

Ron Haver -

Can I do an Internet restore?

Ron Haver -

I want to replace the 3.5” hard drive with a 2.5” hard drive. I bought the Sabrent 3.5-Inch to x2 SSD/2.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive Mounting Kit (I actually have two of these iMacs and will install a 1TB HD in one and a 500GB SSD in the other). Do I have to install the thermal sensor as in steps 18-20 if I’m using a 2.5” drive/SSD?

Thanks in advance.

Richard Cacciato -

Oops. Just saw Pablo Guerrero’s July 11 post and Eric Drummond’s August 19 reply. I will reinstall the thermal sensor.

Thanks for a great guide!

Richard Cacciato -

I upgraded my wife’s old iMac and replaced the original 250GB WD Caviar HD with a 500GB Samsung 860 EVO V-NAND SSD. Worked out of the box. I created a compressed read-only disk image with SuperDuper (took 45 minutes for 12 GB) and then restored it to the SSD (in less than 2 minutes).

Initially I bought an incorrect 2.5” to 3.5” adapter, so I reordered another which did the job without requiring extension cables: Sabrent BK-PCBS. It isn’t the most expensive option, but it is a perfect fit for the hob: screw holes at the right place and with the right threads, and SATA connectors at the same place as the original HDD (so no cable extenders required).

The machine now boots up very quickly and is much more responsive. Meanwhile I also upgraded the memory from 2GB to 6GB, which also contributes to the increased responsiveness of that machine.

Olivier Biot -

Thanks for referral Olivier, I bought the same adapter, worked like a charm in a 2133 iMac.

“Always read the comments before you open the device / buy the proper stuff”.

Julien -

Took apart my imac 20” and a wire connected to one of the inverter cable connectors came out of the connector. I tried to tape it but when everything was put back together, I got a black screen. Is this because of the inverter cable and can this be fixed?

Mary Jo Jadwin -

Did you get it fixed in the end? How? It might be handy for other people running into the same issue. Also, I recommend skipping this step and not unplugging the inverters, but having someone hold the screen for you when you go through the steps after step 11.

Julien -

Thank you for these instructions; I used them to pull a the drive for destruction. Without these I wouldn't have known where to being!

spslizer -

Great tutorial!

One point is difficult, and I’m not have been able to solve it at this time. No problem with the fans (the sensor is put on the new SSD drive) but when the iMac goes out of sleep, it stays frozen after the password put on, with the weel turning.

The only way to get rid of this is :

- disable completely the suspension time (put to “never”) ;

- if it occurs, hard reboot.

It seems that the system (Yosemite, El Capitan) doesn’t sees the hard drive woken up.

Gaétan RYCKEBOER -

Thanks for the instructions, all went well and the computer is revived with an SSD instead of the factory HDD, so much faster. Mother in-law won’t have to buy a new computer. An iMac2133 from 15 years ago will push 5 more years easy.

Julien -