Sostituzione gruppo connettore Lightning iPhone 7 Plus

How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?

The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???

Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Sostituzione guarnizione adesiva display iPhone

I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.

Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.

My favourites are:

Use a hot water bottle.

Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.

Test the lightning assembly at step 13

There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.

etc...

A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.

Herb

The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.

My AliExpress refurbished screen came with a pick that has a coin-like circle that pops out, so no modification was necessary

I laid my phone face-down on my 3D printer’s heated bed, and set the temperature to 60 C. After a few minutes, it was ready to loosen.

If you don’t have an “iOpener” or heat gun, try using an electric heating pad. I have a small $11 pad I got at CVS for my knee. On medium heat it worked fine for removal and with the “pennies” for setting the new seal.

I used a heated tea kettle and a tea towel, it worked!

I put on the furnace vent for 10 minutes to get it warm to the touch but not hot.

I attached it to the after burner of my rocket ship and that worked.

I'm holding mine just above an erupting volcano but I'm still waiting to see if it has worked. How long does it need?

I used a water-filled ziploc bag, heated it in microwave. fast, cheap, worked.

Hairdryer works fine for this step. No issues.

The most effective way to heat up the glue is to leave the phone in full sun - if it's available. In fact I would always wait for a sunny day to repair any glued together Apple device. The heat will be very even and the phone was probably designed to survive anything the sun can throw at it - although it can get very warm. (I'm in the UK) If you leave the phone turned on it will give a warning if it goes near the temperature limit.

I'm sorry but I tried both the hair dryer (for 3 minutes!) and the eye opener (also 3 minutes) and no luck. Not even a hint of loosening the adhesive holding down the display!! Do I send this kit back for a refund or what??!!

No luck, guys. 3 minutes of hair drying and 3 minutes heating up the iopener. What next?

Okay, a half hour later i finally got the screen loose, but not after super heating it for at leat 10 minutes with a hair drying and burning my hand trying to pry it open. Also, watch out for the power button because it inadvertently keeps switching the phone back on while you wrestle with it. More later . . .

. . . and now I need to buy a new phone!!! the cable broke as I was trying to unscrew one of the top screws, so thanks! I FIXed IT but Good!!!!

Nate B's advice was key. I couldn't get the temperature of the display hot enough to break the seal with a hair dryer. A heat gun set to low speed and 550F (287C) got the display up to just over 130F, close to the 60C Nate mentioned.

Get a suction cup pliers. It’ll make this part fun

iSclack EVO opened the iPhone easily even without heating with no fear of accidentally over-opening it like with a simple suction cup.

Be really careful here. I placed a sucker to the front and rear to help lever off the screen. However, the whole thing came away much easier than I anticipated and I ripped the front part completely away from the rear, tearing all three connector cables. New iPhone required.

Note that the opening pick they show here does not appear to come with the kit, which is a bummer! The plunger, the mini blue crowbar thing, these are too thick. I ended up using a really thin guitar pick.

Following careful methods can mostly preserve the seal and reusable. Won’t be as water tight but probably still pretty good.

Bottom edge is pull up with suction + separating tool. Use small precision scissor to cut any tape that gets overly stretched upon initial opening.

- For the 2 long edges, use an exacto knife to separate the seal from the screen. This keeps the tape on the chassis. Go slow along the long sides. Becareful to avoid scratching the paint on underside of the screen’s edge.

- Top corners have a thick sealed tape. Best to just use separating tool to twist it open.

In summary, top and bottom edge use separating tool. Side long edges can use exacto knife to gradually gently separate the seal from underside of the screen’s edge.

4 picks and an exacto knife, plus 45 minutes later, I finally got it to open! Thanks tor the tip!

Intact screen, check. Tool kit, check. Hair dryer hot enough to make the phone too hot to touch, check. Following all instructions, check. Screen still in place and refusing to come off, check.

I heated, reheated, pulled and pulled. I simply could not get it off. Worked at it for an hour and a half, and I’m not a small guy. Yes it is hard to hold, but could get a grip. Just could not get it to budge. Off to the iPhone repair shop tomorrow. Anybody want to buy a repair kit and replacement battery?

After struggling for 30m, I looked up some alternate methods and found this helpful:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=25zAK5mG...

- I used a utility knife and pried up right under the home button

- the angle matters! I was trying to go too far down before going in. The top surface of the phone is rather thin, so you go in after barely getting under the chassis lip

- tilt utility knife left to right once you’ve got it under to work it in

- leave the utility knife in, and now add that pick

Pro-tip: don't be an idiot like me. Instead, remove the screen protector you have on the phone before applying the suction cups. Derp.

I struggled with a hair dryer at first and a singular suction cup. However, I tried putting packing tape on the spot where I put the suction job (even though my screen isn't cracked) and I was able to do it first try with ease. Definitely recommend packing tape.

Suction cup pliers. Dead easy

After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. Heat, very very gentle exact-o knife barely down then fully under the screen below the home button … perfect. Slow and patient around the upper corners, and don’t forget to heat there as well! Thank you all!

The problems with this step are (1) not having three hands and (2) managing to hold the phone in a way that doesn't put reverse pressure somewhere else on the screen. Exacto knife was the best tip. It's a little dangerous. On a misstep you may scratch the screen or jab yourself, but it's what got me in.

sorry, could not lift off the display any nano-meter even after applying enough force I think and heating it up. need to visit a store.

I used a razor blade and plenty of heat, and it somehow worked like a charm at the cost of me cutting myself. Definitely be careful when doing this, I used the razor blade on the left side of the iphone then wedged in a small screwdriver and then used the pick to cut the rest of the material away.

DO NOT LAY THE TWO HALVES FLAT!!! There is a reason why the third photo shows the screen half leaning against a box! This really needs to be a warning in addition to the one about not separating the display.

my screwdriver will only remove the 2.6mm screw and not the others, what shall i do?

A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!

STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.

i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.

there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?

what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off

I had to use a fingernail to dislodge the bracket. As Jeffrey said, it was apparently stuck to the connector.

After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.

When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.

Bent the pins on the connector out of place, worked them very carefully back with fine nose tweezers. This was by far the crux of the repair for me.

Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?

I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?

I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.

My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.

Would appreciate any advice!

Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob

I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.

I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.

In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/

If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.

This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.

There is no tool for this special screw. What gives?

My kit has the standoff bit, just wasn't in the tool tray, it was loose in the box with another bit.

I tried it with the flat blade instead of the standoff screwdriver and it worked, but I figure it added about 15 minutes of fumbling around and some risk of slipping and stripping. I have the iFixIt kit with like 80 bits so I just assumed it would be in there. Had I known before starting, I would have definitely gotten a standoff bit, just for the peace of mind.

put a dab of tippex on the top connector so you remember which is which

%#*@, the ifixit's coaxial connector's quality is such a rubbish. needed a lucky chance to actually insert it into the slot

1) The fact iFixit marks tho DIFFERENT SCREWS as IDENTICAL i s a big shame. Really guys, DO go an extra mile and account screws thoroughly. Luckily other screws seem to be marked correctly

2) since iFixit was lazy to compose a build-up instruction:

better take care of connecting the ports BEFORE you screw tightly the board to the rest of the phone! This gives you some degree of freedom to move the board a bit to be able to click the ports in without destroying them -- its especially the case for the connection with the lightning board, where the chip might be misaligned by a fraction of a millimetre in the direction along the chip even if you placed the lightning chip perfectly in terms of those two pins mentioned below -- you just won't have enough length of the flat cable to align the port (because the flatness and shortness of the cable blocks the movement in the direction you need to align) and risk pressing flat the tiny contacts.

Hi all.

Thank you for leaving your comments! We have changed the guide accordingly to show two separate screws with larger and smaller screw heads. Going forward, you can always directly edit the guides if you have any improvements—we are a wiki after all!

The top coax (nearest the battery connector) leads to the WiFi Diversity Antenna on the speaker assembly. ⏎
The other coax is for the secondary cell antenna, part of the lightning assembly. Be sure to reassemble them to the right sockets

I agree with Jamie Liao above. Skips steps 18-24 as described. Before proceeding with step 25, I heated a microwavable hot/cold compress (used to treat muscle strains). I set the iPhone back casing on the heated compress before pulling out the adhesive strips.

Again, there is no need to do steps 18 through 24.

i didn’t remove this and had major issues pulling the adhesive strips out. I literally couldn’t grasp them and then when i did, they broke! UGH! I was able to complete the installation but i must have done something wrong because my phone still isnt working. It just ‘flashes’ the apple logo. Won’t do anything else. Should have just taken it in for repair. Now i have to buy a new phone anyway.

I think a picture of what to clean is needed as if there is anything left it may not fit

Normally when I replace the charge port on any iPhone or device I first connect it to the mainboard to test the connector. After I know that the charge port flex will connect and take amperage from the lightning cable. I leave the flex connector connected to the mainboard and proceed in installing the flex, with the motherboard first, Then I will route the charge port flex cable to the bottom of the phone. That ensures proper placement of the connector and also no kinks in the flex when applying it to the frame.

As for the microphone or any small component that needs sealant I use a liquid adhesive (no super Glue) use like T7000 T8000 or similar. Take a toothpick and dab a small amount around the area that needs adhesive. Then adhere to the 2 pieces( in this case the microphone to the frame. This always provides a water-tight seal. No matter the location.

Amazing that we get to the end and find no re-assembly instructions or specific details about the mesh kit. Ugh!

tim, follow it backward

My Lightning Port assembly came with both the membrane that goes onto the microphone, as well as a pair of “screen” mesh that replace the old ones at the opening for the phone’s speaker and heat port. It took a few minutes to inspect everything and replace them but it’s one-to-one replacement so it helps. There were also a couple of other adhesive parts that I couldn’t see on my phone. Don’t know their purpose.

In summary additional explanation would help but as is it was decent enough. With the investigation and thinking, the whole process took me much longer than 2 hours but my phone is working fantastically and it was well worth it.

I also replaced the battery right at this step before putting everything else back together. That was pretty easy.

For my repair the adhesive patch that goes on the microphone shown bottom right in the third image was the wrong size. It was about 2mm to long, which meant that the two small holes which are supposed to line up with spikes on the phone body did not. I had the cut it to size. Also, I echo the comments made by others above. Simply stating 'follow this procedure in reverse' is suitable, especially after how much we paid. There are many intricacies that aren't explained that aren't needed when disassembling by are needed when assembling.