Introduzione
Usa questa guida per sostituire il gruppo schermo in un MacBook Pro per poter sistemare un display rotto o guasto.
Per la tua sicurezza, scarica la batteria del tuo MacBook Pro prima di iniziare.
Strumenti
Ricambi
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Accendi il tuo Mac e apri Terminal.
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Copia e incolla il seguente comando (oppure digitalo esattamente) in Terminal:
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00
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Premi [return]. Se richiesta, inserisci la tua password di amministratore e premi di nuovo [return]. Nota: il tuo tasto return può essere etichettato anche come ⏎ o "enter."
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sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03
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Usa un cacciavite pentalobe P5 per rimuovere le sei viti fissaggio della cover inferiore.
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Due viti da 6,2 mm
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Quattro viti da 3,4 mm
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Applica una ventosa alla cover inferiore in centro vicino alla parte anteriore del MacBook Pro.
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Tira la ventosa per creare una sottile fessura tra la cover inferiore e la scocca.
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Inserisci l'angolo di un plettro di apertura nello spazio tra la cover inferiore della scocca.
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Fai scorrere il plettro di apertura attorno all'angolo più vicino, fino a metà strada del lato del case.
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Ripeti il passo precedente sul lato opposto, facendo scorrere il plettro di apertura sotto la cover inferiore e lungo il lato per poter sganciare la seconda clip.
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Inserisci il plettro di apertura di nuovo sotto il bordo anteriore del case inferiore, vicino a uno dei fori delle viti più centrali.
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Applica una decisa torsione al plettro per liberare la terza clip di fissaggio.
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Ripeti questa procedura vicino all'altro dei fori più centrali delle viti, liberando così la quarta clip.
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Tira la cover inferiore con decisione verso la parte anteriore del MacBook (allontanandolo quindi dalla zona delle cerniere) per separare l'ultima clip di fissaggio del case.
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Tira prima da un angolo e poi dall'altro
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Rimuovi la cover inferiore.
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Disponilo in posizione e allinea le clip scorrevoli vicino alla cerniera dello schermo. Premi la cover verso il basso e quindi falla scorrere verso la cerniera. Dovrebbe smettere di scorrere una volta che le clip si sono agganciate.
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Quando le clip scorrevoli sono completamente agganciate e il case inferiore appare allineato correttamente, premi la cover con fermezza per agganciare le quattro clip sottostanti. Dovresti percepire e udire le clip che scattano in posizione di bloccaggio.
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Stacca con cautela l'ampio pezzo di nastro adesivo che copre il connettore della batteria, sul bordo della scheda logica più vicino alla batteria stessa.
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Rimuovi il nastro adesivo.
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Stacca delicatamente il piccolo pezzo di nastro adesivo che copre il connettore del cavo dati della scheda batteria.
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Usa la punta di spudger per sbloccare, sollevandola, la piccola aletta di bloccaggio nera che trattiene il cavo nel suo connettore.
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Scollega il cavo dati della scheda batteria facendolo scorrere fuori dal suo zoccolo.
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Fai scorrere il cavo parallelamente alla scheda logica, nella direzione del cavo stesso.
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Usa un cacciavite Torx T5 per rimuovere la vite a testa larga da 3,7 mm che tiene bloccato il connettore dell'alimentazione della batteria.
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Usa uno spudger per sollevare con delicatezza il connettore dell'alimentazione della batteria, scollegando quindi la batteria stessa.
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Solleva il connettore quanto basta perché resti separato dal suo zoccolo. Se dovesse fare contatto accidentalmente nel corso della tua riparazione, il tuo MacBook Pro si potrebbe danneggiare.
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Rimuovi le quattro viti Torx T3 da 1,9 mm che fissano le cover di plastica sopra le cerniere dello schermo.
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Rimuovi entrambe le cover di plastica delle cerniere.
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Rimuovi le due viti Torx T3 da 2,9 mm che fissano la cover di alluminio disposta sopra il cavo principale dello schermo.
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Rimuovi la cover.
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Rimuovi le due viti Torx T3 da 1,7 mm che fissano la cover di alluminio disposta sopra il connettore del cavo flessibile dello schermo.
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Rimuovi la cover.
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Solleva dal suo zoccolo il cavo flessibile della scheda dello schermo per disconnetterlo dalla scheda stessa.
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Rimuovi le quattro viti Torx T3 da 1,5 mm che fissano le due cover di alluminio al di sopra dei due connettori del cavo del display.
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Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere le due cover di alluminio.
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Rimuovi le quattro viti Torx T5 da 3,9 mm (due da ciascun lato) che fissano il gruppo del cavo di antenna.
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Rimuovi anche le dodici viti pentalobe P2 da 1,1 mm presenti su entrambi i lati.
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Disconnetti con delicatezza i tre cavi coassiali di antenna tirandoli verso l'alto rispetto alla scheda logica.
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Rimuovi la vite Torx T5 da 2,8 mm che fissa i due cavi coassiali di antenna alla scheda principale.
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Usa un plettro di apertura per far leva, nei punti illustrati, sotto il gruppo del cavo di antenna.
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Rimuovi con cautela il gruppo dell'antenna, mentre nello stesso momento fai passare il cavo dell'antenna al di sotto del tubo di calore.
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Rimuovi le quattro viti Torx T3 da 3,9 mm che fissano le cerniere a molla dei due cavi del display.
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Afferra il lato sinistro del gruppo del cavo dello schermo e tira verso la parte inferiore del MacBook Pro, allontanandolo dalla cerniera a molla.
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Con delle pinzette, tira fuori dal suo supporto la cerniera a molla del cavo del display.
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Ripeti questo passo con la cover a molla di destra del gruppo del cavo del display.
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Posiziona delicatamente il tuo laptop, con la tastiera rivolta verso il basso, sul bordo di un tavolo in modo che lo schermo si distenda verticalmente verso il basso.
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Sostieni lo schermo con una mano e usa la mano libera per rimuovere le sei viti Torx T8 che fissano le cerniere.
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Mantieni saldamente il corpo principale del tuo MacBook con una mano.
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Con la mano libera, spingi il lato sinistro dello schermo verso l'alto e verso il fondo del laptop per liberare la cerniera sinistra.
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Confronta la tua parte di ricambio con quella originale: potrebbe essere necessario il trasferimento di alcuni componenti o la rimozione di protezioni adesive dalla nuova parte prima di installarla.
Per riassemblare il tuo dispositivo, segui i passi descritti in ordine inverso.
Porta i tuoi rifiuti elettronici a un riciclatore certificato R2 o e-Stewards.
La riparazione non è andata come previsto? Prova delle soluzioni di base ai problemi, oppure rivolgiti alla nostra comunità Risposte per trovare aiuto nella risoluzione dei problemi.
25 commenti
I followed all the steps and my new screen is working properly (•̀ᴗ•́)و. I realized however that my Touch Bar isn’t lighting up anymore… Did I forget to connect something?
Guy -
Where did you buy a replacement screen for your Mac? I can seem to find any for the A1989 Model that seems legit and I’m not sure how much I trust eBay listings.
Did you ever find an answer to this because I have had the same thing happen and I cannot for the life of me figure out why it has happened, what did you do to fix the problem or did you just give up and go to apple?
jack -
Unfortunately, my Touch Bar is still not working. I did some research back in 2020 and couldn’t find anything that would help fix this issue. And since my laptop is connected to an external screen and keyboard most of the time, it never really bothered me. But I should take it to Apple to see if it can be fixed and how much it’ll cost…
Guy -
I mean you may as well because what if it is just some simple calibration issue or some silly little thing that their diagnostic software can fix in less than a minute? If they try to charge too much money then you can always just deny, I believe that I will end up doing that soon to get a quote on just how much it will cost me to get both the display and Touch Bar repaired and see if it is worth it or not.
jack -
Ok so I would like to inform you that I did a little bit of digging into my MacBook Pro with its Touch Bar connectors and I have made the discovery that 1 one of those little chips near the connector I think they are resistors or diodes, idk but I found that one of them have literally exploded and killed another one next to it. I have no idea why or how but maybe you wanna check your MacBook Pro for that as well to see if its a common occurrence
jack -
I think you didn't read the VERY IMPORTANT comment by Marcelo on step 30. The long rectangle next to the pointy part of the "left" hinge (the one visible in the photo) is the connector for the touch bar and is EASILY DAMAGED, especially since you need a lot of force to get the hinge in.
I got around this by sliding the "left" hinge SIDEWAYS into its slot and then forcing the "right" hinge back.
Does anyone know where I can find a new official Apple Display 13” for model A1989? Can’t seem to find any except for eBay.
Yeah, I found mine on eBay. This vendor seemed trustworthy (www.ebay.com/usr/wallachee?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2754) and it turned out to be true. The screen I got is working perfectly…
Guy -
Après remplacement de l’écran complet.
Je confirme que ce tutoriel fonctionne également pour le MacBook Pro avec Touch Bar 13,3 “ de 2017 A1706
Attention: aux étapes 16-18-20-27 utiliser un embout Torx T4 et non T3.
Fajardo -
Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.
Macrepair SF -
@mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!
Jeff Suovanen -
Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.
Dan -
This did not work when running High Sierra.
Kyle B -
Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.
Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>
Cool_Breeze -
I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.
Brian -
Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(
Nursat b -
BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.
Jason Sherron -
This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?
Patrick Machacek -
Not able to do that with damaged screen
richardjgreen -
If you have a damaged screen you can still use a converter from thunderbolt (USB 3) to HDMI and plug your Macbook Pro to your TV as monitor display. Just make sure to chose the right Source (HDMI IN) in your TV. I did it and to make it work I unplug and plug again in my Macbook and so I could disable the Auto boot
Roberto Sanchez Bustos -
Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian
Adrian Vizik -
Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.
Roberto Enrieu -
running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted
result: `AutoBoot %00`
Marek Polák -
Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's:
nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot'
to display the current state, the default istrue
- and then to change it,sudo nvram auto-boot=false
which turns it off.Ed Mechem -
This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.
Grant Ormsby -
It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.
tommy404 -
I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.
hatuxka -
BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!
I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.
Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.
bcardanha -
I've just received my replacement battery and it reads 0,042V between the two main connectors. Do you think it's dead?
peter sussex -
When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”
johann beda -
When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a
pwd
(print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.Ed Mechem -
I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.
I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.
I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.
Mircea Comanici -
After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.
Ed Mease -
This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.
G Sena -
Est ce que cela fonctionne sur un macbook pro 2017 sans touchbar ?
maël muzelet -
Bonjour Maël, oui, ce tutoriel concerne "les MacBook Pro 2016 (et plus récents) et les MacBook Retina 12" 2017 (et plus récents)"
Claire Miesch -
Excellent instructions. I was able to follow and install the new screen. I recommend that you get a good set of tools before you begin. I started with an inexpensive repair kit bought online. The Penta and torx bits failed. I bought an IFIXIT kit with quality bits and I was able to do everything I needed.
Tom Markham -
If you're not running an admin account the sudo command won't work (which honestly, you should not be running admin). Rather than logging in to your admin amount via the OS, in the terminal type "login [admin username]," then the password and you'll be able to do the sudo command as described above. Once you're complete, type "logout [admin username]" and you'll be good to go. Obviously replace [admin username] with whatever the account name for your admin user is.
arichard2401 -
For those unable to complete this step because the screen is too damaged I recommend leaving your macbook on until the battery dies.
Nicholas R Licato -
Just replaced my 2018 15" MBP battery. Running Sonoma.
I found no way to disable AutoBoot (The status can be checked in the Power section of system report).
Anyway, i left my battery completely drain before opening the MBP, and had no issues during the process.
Cédric Bontems -
After sending this command in terminal when I checked what happens if I now open the lid, instead the screen lit slightly up (still black) then a battery symbol showing the charging state showed up.
Now, after replacement of the battery, this is all I get to see.
No reset of NVRAM nor PRAM helped.
Currently the new battery charges (58% atm) and it feels like it‘s mocking me.
webrockers -
I suspected the keyboard or TouchID sensor wouldn’t work, so I went on and checked every connector.
I missed connecting the left TouchID sensor from step 31.
webrockers -