Sostituzione gruppo tasto Home iPad Mini 4 LTE

Passo 1

Se il vetro del display è rotto, l'uso del nastro adesivo sulla superficie impedisce alla rottura di espandersi e previene danni fisici dovuti alle schegge di vetro.
Stendi delle strisce sovrapposte di nastro adesivo da pacchi trasparente sul display dell'iPad fino a coprire l'intera superficie. Per rotture molto serie, può essere necessario applicare due strati di nastro sovrapposti.
Questo farà si che i pezzi di vetro rimangano fermi ed isolati. Inoltre fornisce integrità strutturale quando andrai a far leva per alzare lo schermo.
Cerca di seguire al meglio il resto della guida. Tuttavia, una volta che il vetro è crepato, continuerà a rompersi sempre di più mentre procederai alla riparazione. Potresti aver bisogno di strumenti metallici per rimuovere il vetro.
Proteggi i tuoi occhi! Questa procedura può far volare dei piccoli pezzi di vetro verso la tua faccia. Non provare a seguire la procedura senza un paio di occhiali di sicurezza.

Passo 2

Ti raccomandiamo di pulire il tuo forno a microonde prima dell'operazione, perché ignobili entità unte e appiccicose potrebbero attaccarsi all'iOpener.
Disponi l'iOpener al centro del tuo forno a microonde.
Per forni a microonde con piatto rotante: assicurati che il piatto giri liberamente. Se l'iOpener si incastrasse da qualche parte, potrebbe surriscaldarsi e bruciare.

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - 06/12/16

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - 29/12/16

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - 30/01/17

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - 19/07/17

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - 16/09/17

I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

ian cheong - 22/06/19

Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

Tim Feyaerts - 13/07/19

The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

polleyphony - 28/12/19

The iOpener did not work at all for me.

I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

Mike Jeanette - 29/12/19

Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

Kyle - 05/01/20

The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

laurentvidu - 01/02/20

I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

trebor65 - 11/10/20

My experience pt2

Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

trebor65 - 11/10/20

Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

gazza667 - 16/11/20

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

Dennis - 10/01/21

Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

Manu R - 05/02/21

If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

mpulliam - 07/02/21

Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

Esmond Pitt - 03/04/21

Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

doug - 23/04/21

I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

Richard O'Brien - 22/05/21

No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

nin10doh -

#### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

T z - 06/06/21

I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

Mizzoo, s.r.o. -

I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

Randal Haufler -

I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

janderson martin -

WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

Run Up A Tree -

I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

marcelflueeler -

I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

Tom Weber -

iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

jharrison -

Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

Aspect22 -

A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

Dan Smith -

For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

Dan Smith -

BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

Dan Smith -

Passo 3

Riscalda l'iOpener per 30 secondi.
Se durante la riparazione l'iOpener si raffredda, scaldalo di nuovo nel microonde per altri 30 secondi.
Fai attenzione a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante l'operazione. Il surriscaldamento potrebbe far esplodere l'iOpener. Non scaldare sopra i 100°C (212°F)
Non toccare mai l'iOpener se appare gonfio.
Se l'iOpener è ancora troppo caldo in mezzo per poterlo toccare, continua a utilizzarlo mentre attendi che si raffreddi un po' prima di scaldarlo di nuovo. Un iOpener riscaldato correttamente dovrebbe rimanere caldo fino a 10 minuti.

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - 22/12/16

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - 13/01/17

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - 14/07/17

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - 29/08/17

All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

Greg Latta - 12/09/19

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - 01/12/17

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - 01/01/18

I agree with this.

Jarl Friis -

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - 24/04/18

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

K

Karl Marble - 06/07/18

I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

Bernhard Keim - 30/01/19

Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

Collins -

Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

Larry Bennett - 24/02/19

I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

Fixrights - 30/04/19

iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

digital_only - 13/10/19

Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

Berard Romain - 23/12/19

Bonjour,

Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

Claire Miesch - 23/12/19

Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

G Trieste - 05/02/21

Get a heat gun.

alesha adamson - 09/09/20

I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

Dennis - 31/01/21

I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

cvela90 - 23/06/21

After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

Collins -

It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

Sergey Kofanov -

I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

manningrl -

You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

William Draheim -

Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

Andrés Vettori -

Passo 4

Rimuovi l'iOpener dal forno a microonde, afferrandolo per una delle due estremità piatte per evitare il contatto con la parte centrale calda.
L'iOpener sarà davvero caldissimo, perciò fai attenzione quando lo maneggi. Usa una presina da forno, se necessario.

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - 22/07/18

I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

Billinski -

Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

breadandbits - 24/07/20

I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

John - 07/09/20

I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

Robin - 02/10/20

This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

Mark -

If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

Jarl Friis -

Passo 5

Se non hai un microonde, segui questo passo per scaldare il tuo iOpener in acqua bollente.
Riempi una pentola o una padella con abbastanza acqua per immergerci un iOpener.
Scalda l'acqua finché non bolle. Spegni il fuoco.
Posiziona l'iOpener nell'acqua calda per 2-3 minuti. Assicurati che l'iOpener sia completamente immerso nell'acqua.
Usa delle pinze per estrarre l'iOpener scaldato dall'acqua calda.
Asciuga accuratamente l'iOpener con un asciugamano.
L'iOpener sarà molto caldo, quindi fai attenzione e tienilo solo dalle linguette alle estremità.
Il tuo iOpener è pronto all'uso! Se devi scaldare di nuovo l'iOpener, scalda l'acqua fino all'ebollizione, spegni il fuoco e immergi l'iOpener in acqua per 2-3 minuti.

What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

alexdelarge103@gmail.com -

Use a hair dryer

Edited To the max -

2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

Robert Garcia -

When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

Robert Garcia -

Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

Jack Adrian Zappa -

2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

Kipras Bielinskas -

I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

Ollie Tan -

Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

.

Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

James Beegle - 08/01/24

Passo 6

Scalda un iOpener e appoggialo al bordo sinistro per due minuti.

Passo 7

Posiziona una ventosa al centro del bordo sinistro.
Assicurati che la ventosa sia completamente piatta sul vetro per avere una presa salda.
Mentre tieni fermo l'iPad con una mano, tira la ventosa con una forza costante per creare una fessura.
A seconda dell'età del tuo dispositivo, questo potrebbe essere difficile. Se stai avendo problemi, applica più calore e riprova.
Sta' attento a sollevare il vetro solo il sufficiente per infilarci un plettro. Se lo sollevi di più rischi di rompere il vetro.

Passo 8

Mentre tieni sollevato il vetro con la ventosa, inserisci la punta di un plettro nella fessura tra il vetro e il corpo dell'iPad.
Non infilare il plettro più di 2 mm sotto il lato del vetro. Infilarlo più a fondo potrebbe danneggiare il gruppo della retroilluminazione, il pannello LCD o il touch screen.

“Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”

Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.

The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.

Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.

lucanos - 21/08/18

Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.

ian cheong - 22/06/19

This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...

Alec - 17/08/19

can you open the right side if the left is too cracked to use a suction cup on?

clark overhiser - 29/01/20

This guide needs amending urgently.

You MUST NOT put the pick or whatever you are using more than 2mm under the sides of the screen, or you will cut through the adhesive tape securing the backlight assembly to the LCD glass.

This will push adhesive into the viewable area of the LCD and cause the backlight assembly to no longer be secured against the LCD fully.

I now need a new screen.

This line below from the guide is absolutely INCORRECT and will ruin your expensive display:

”Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.”

The black bezel is 5mm to 6mm wide; you MUST NOT insert anything to that depth or you will destroy your display. 2mm maximum!

jamesqb2001 - 17/03/20

thanks. will take this into account for my repair

Adab Abu - 07/04/21

I too damaged my display because of this absolute nonsense (The German version, which I used, still had this INCORRECT portion in it). I can't believe how long it took iFixit to update this, even though people have been reporting this for years on end. Sadly iFixit still haven't updated a variety of other things that are still at the very least high risk instructions. I just messaged them the other day, but they don't seem to care about or understand the remaining issues that this guide has. At least they updated one of the most severe things, but they just plainly told me 'I'm wrong' about the rest. I liked iFixit it so far, and I've worked on a variety of (difficult) repairs - but this experience was a very huge let down.

Mac Stevenson -

A few thoughts after opening a number of Mini 4’s.

1) if the display is warm enough you can squeeze the digitizer and LCD back together after a minor incursion with the opening pick and it will reseal.

2) I’ve started going in at the top just to the right of the camera (I use an iFlex to get in then switch to a pick). Then I run down either side with my fingers choked up on the pick so there only a mm or 2 sticking out. Usually after running down one side, I can get the display open enough to get the pick in behind the LCD when I do the other side

Stow - 20/01/21

Passo 9

Scalda di nuovo e riappoggia l'iOpener sul bordo sinistro per qualche minuto.
Stai attento a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante la procedura di riparazione. Aspetta sempre almeno 10 minuti prima di scaldare di nuovo l'iOpener.

If your iPad is cold, consider leaving the iOpener on for longer than 5 minutes. The aluminum housing is a very large thermally dissipating mass and will quickly cool off the glass and make you have to start over and wait the 10 minutes to reheat. There’s a very slim window in which you’re able to insert the pick into the glass adhesive before it solidifies once again. I’ve been fighting with it for like 20 minutes following these instructions and it’s not working. You really need to leave it for longer than just 5 minutes to get the back housing hot too.

Crystal S - 26/01/20

Heat is essential. I used a 3d printer’s heated set at 65 degrees. Chris Storer’s stip above saved me as you really need to let it sit for quite a while to soften the adhesive. Since I was doing a battery change, I heated both sides as the aluminum back is a huge heatsink that really sucks up the heat. Don’t try forcing it; if the suction cup isn’t pulling a gap in the screen, leave it on the heater for additional time.

garbage911garbage -

Love the 3d printer idea, I hadn’t thought of that! I have used a heat gun as well but you have to be very careful to not use too much heat. Also watch for inserting the pick too far, it is really easy to delaminate glass from the display!

russ -

Passo 10

Inserisci un secondo plettro accanto al primo e fallo scorrere verso il bordo inferiore dell'iPad, separando l'adesivo.
Durante il resto della procedura, se incontri troppa resistenza mentre fai scorrere il plettro sotto il vetro, fermati e riscalda la zona dove stai lavorando. Fare troppa forza con il plettro potrebbe rompere il vetro.

I have found that wedging a blue pry tool in between the frame and the glass can give you a better edge enough to slide the pick in.

Crystal S - 26/01/20

Passo 11

Continua a far scorrere il plettro verso il basso per separare l'adesivo.
Se il plettro si incastra nell'adesivo, "giralo" lungo il bordo dell'iPad, continuando a separare l'adesivo.

Passo 12

Prendi il primo plettro che hai infilato e fallo scorrere verso il bordo superiore dell'iPad.

Passo 13

Scalda di nuovo l'iOpener e appoggialo al bordo superiore dell'iPad, sopra la fotocamera anteriore.
Stai attento a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante la procedura di riparazione. Aspetta almeno 10 minuti prima di scaldare di nuovo l'iOpener.
Se hai un iOpener pieghevole, puoi piegarlo allo stesso tempo sia sopra il bordo superiore che sulla parte superiore del bordo sinistro.

Passo 14

Fai scorrere il plettro attorno l'angolo in alto a sinistra dell'iPad per separare l'adesivo.

Passo 15

Fai scorrere il plettro sotto il bordo superiore dell'iPad, fermandoti appena prima deella fotocamera.
Mentre ti avvicini alla fotocamera, sfila leggermente il plettro e continua a farlo scorrere sotto il bordo superiore.
Evita di far scorrere il plettro sopra la fotocamera, in quanto potresti macchiare la lente con l'adesivo o danneggiare la fotocamera. I passaggi seguenti ti mostreranno come evitare al meglio la fotocamera anteriore.

Passo 16

Lascia il plettro infilato nell'iPad leggermente dopo la fotocamera.
Prendi un secondo plettro ed infilalo a sinistra della fotocamera, dove sei già passato col primo plettro. Fallo scorrere verso l'angolo in alto a sinistra per tagliare del tutto l'adesivo rimasto.
Lascia il secondo plettro sotto l'angolo per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli raffreddandosi.

Passo 17

Infila il primo plettro più a fondo nell'iPad e fallo scorrere lontano dalla fotocamera, verso l'angolo.

Passo 18

Lascia i tre plettri sotto gli angoli dell'iPad per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli.
Scalda di nuovo l'iOpener e appoggialo al bordo destro dell'iPad, dove ci sono i tasti del volume e di accensione.

Passo 19

Infila un nuovo plettro e fallo scorrere sotto il bordo destro dell'iPad, separando l'adesivo.

Passo 20

Continua a far scorrere il plettro verso il bordo inferiore dell'iPad, riscaldandolo con un iOpener se necessario.
Stai attento a non infilare troppo a fondo il plettro vicino all'angolo in basso a destra, o rischi di danneggiare il cavo dello schermo.

Passo 21

Lascia i plettri sotto gli angoli e scalda di nuovo l'iOpener.
Ricordati di non surriscaldare l'iOpener: non scaldarlo più di una volta ogni 10 minuti.
Appoggia l'iOpener riscaldato sul bordo inferiore dell'iPad, sopra il tasto Home, e lascialo lì per qualche minuto per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto il vetro.

Passo 22

Infila un nuovo plettro sotto l'angolo in basso a destra dello schermo, sotto l'ultimo plettro usato sotto il bordo destro.
Ruota il nuovo plettro attorno all'angolo in basso a destra del dispositivo.

Passo 23

Fai scorrere il plettro dall'angolo in basso a destra sotto il bordo inferiore del dispositivo. Fermati a circa un centimetro dal tasto Home.

Passo 24

Infila un ultimo plettro sotto l'angolo in basso a sinistra dell'iPad, sotto quello già presente.

Passo 25

Fai scorrere il plettro attorno all'angolo in basso a sinistra dell'iPad.

Passo 26

Continua a far scorrere il plettro verso il centro del bordo inferiore, fino a circa un centimetro dal tasto Home.

Passo 27

Ruota i due plettri sotto il bordo superiore dell'iPad per separare l'adesivo restante che tiene fermo lo schermo.
Solleva lo schermo dal bordo superiore per aprire il dispositivo.

"Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPadTwist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad "

When I did this twisting motion, and I thought I was being gentle, one of the picks cracked nearly in half. That adhesive is very strong! I probably did not cut into it far enough before applying the twisting to open the screen.

jharrison -

Passo 28

Per evitare di stressare i cavi, tieni saldo il gruppo schermo perpendicolarmente al corpo dell'iPad finché non sarà disconnesso.
Rimuovi le quattro viti Phillips da 1,2 mm sopra la staffa del connettore della batteria/schermo.

What you need to do is move the display inboard up to the edge area of battery! That will relieve all the stress on the cables. Simply holding it straight up is not enough, especially later when you go back to reconnect the cables and the bracket over the connectors.

Fixrights - 30/04/19

Passo 29

Rimuovi la staffa che copre il cavo della batteria/schermo.

Your bracket may look different to this. Mine had a black covering on the long edge being held between the fingers in this illustration. Same screws, same position, just a different color.

lucanos - 21/08/18

Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?

Thomas Langford - 31/07/19

Note that the left had side of the bracket hooks under a lip on the edge of the case. Always recommend to replace connector brackets. If you forget and leave it out, best to buy a new set of adhesive strips for the day when the connector comes loose.

cheongi - 27/05/21

Passo 30

Quando scolleghi qualsiasi connettore a pressione dalla scheda logica, assicurati di alzare il connettore verso l'alto per evitare di rompere il socket della scheda.
Usa la parte piatta dello spudger per scollegare il connettore della batteria dal suo socket sulla scheda logica.
Piega il cavo piatto del connettore della batteria leggermente verso l'alto per evitare che possa fare contatto e quindi accendere l'iPad.

When i was starting to disconnect the lcd to the board i hit the black film and it lit and now even the new display wont display anything how to fix it? The black film near the lcd connector.

tyroon_jul27 - 28/09/19

Passo 31

Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore dei dati dello schermo dal suo alloggiamento sulla scheda logica.
Usa l'estremità appuntita di uno spudger per scollegare il connettore del digitalizzatore dal suo alloggiamento sulla scheda logica.
Quando dovrai ricollegarli, premi verso il basso prima da un'estremità del connettore poi dall'altra. Se premi sulla sezione centrale del connettore, potresti piegarlo e di conseguenza danneggiarlo o non farlo aderire correttamente coi contatti.

Passo 32

Rimuovi il gruppo schermo.
Per re-installare il gruppo schermo, dovrai sostituire l'adesivo che lo teneva fermo. Usa la nostra guida per l'applicazione dell'adesivo per riapplicare l'adesivo del tuo schermo e sigillare nuovamente il dispositivo.

Ich habe eine Bücherstütze benutzt um das Display in senkrechter Position zu halten, während ich die vier Schräubchen gelöst habe.. So zieht man nicht so an den Flexkabeln….!

Fridtjof Schüssler - 10/07/20

Because the 3-piece adhesive strips shown in the Display Adhesive Application Guide link were different from iPad Mini 4 Adhesive Strips (item code IF316-013-1), it wasn't easy to figure out the exact location of the bottom adhesive. It would be helpful to include a separate application guide or an additional picture showing the exact location of each strip) on the guide.

Christian Kim -

Passo 33

Usa la punta di uno spudger per ruotare verso l'alto l'aletta di bloccaggio sul connettore ZIF del tasto Home.

Passo 34

Usa un paio di pinzette per sfilare il cavo a nastro del tasto Home dalla sua presa ZIF.
Rimuovi il cavo a nastro fino alla schermatura EMI.

Passo 35

Usa le pinzette per sollevare il modulo di controllo del tasto Home dal gruppo dello schermo.

Passo 36

Usa un plettro per separare il cavo a nastro del tasto Home dal gruppo dello schermo.
Se usi uno strumento in metallo per separare questo cavo, potresti graffiare il vetro dell'iPad, rimuovendo della vernice.

Passo 37

Usa uno strumento di apertura in plastica per fare leva sul supporto del tasto Home dal gruppo dello schermo.
Mentre sostituisci questo supporto, ti raccomandiamo di usare del nastro adesivo resistente per fissarlo.

The tip about the high-bond tape is great, but high-bond tape is something that should be mentioned at the beginning in the list of supplies we need. Because I have the whole thing taken apart, and now I’m told I need something that I don’t have on hand. So what am I supposed to do, just let everything sit around open, until I get to the store to see if they have some high-bond tape?

Robb M - 18/03/21

Passo 38

Scalda un iOpener e appoggialo al bordo inferiore del vetro anteriore per ammorbidire l'adesivo che tiene fermo il tasto Home.

what is another option if you dont have heat iopener

premal06 - 26/10/20

A hairdryer and much patience

BeLeFu - 26/10/20

Passo 39

Il tasto Home è tenuto fermo da una sottile e delicata guarnizione in gomma che è leggermente incollata al vetro anterioire.
Spingi lentamente il tasto Home verso l'alto e fuori dal gruppo dello schermo per separare la guarnizione dal vetro.
Stai attento a non tirare la guarnizione fino a strapparla. Se l'adesivo è caldo a sufficienza, si separerà dal vetro con una leggera pressione.

Passo 40

Rimuovi il gruppo del tasto Home.

What is the proper way to reinstall the home button bracket?

chris crawford - 03/01/21

Sostituzione gruppo tasto Home iPad Mini 4 LTE

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