Sostituzione pannello anteriore Nintendo Switch

Passo 1

Prima di iniziare questa riparazione, assicurati che il dispositivo sia completamente spento.
Premi e tieni premuto il piccolo bottone rotondo dietro il controller Joy Con.
Mentre tieni il bottone premuto, fai scorrere il controller verso l'alto.

Kann ich diese Anleitung auch für die OLED anwenden? Habe im INet sonst leider nichts brauchbares gefunden.

Ina Barz -

backup all your sd card data i had to format mine after this tutorial and lost all my game data

JustForThisComment?ComeOn -

Passo 2

Continua a far scorrere il Joy Con fino a quando non è completamente rimosso dalla console.
Ripeti lo stesso processo per l'altro Joy Con.

Passo 3

Usa un cacciavite Y00 per rimuovere le quattro viti lunghe 6,3 mm che tengono fermo il pannello posteriore.
Nel corso dell'intera procedura di riparazione, tieni traccia di ogni vite e assicurati che torni esattamente dove si trovava prima.

Had to use a Y0 from my kit - the Y00 was too small to get a grip on the screw.

cday - 05/06/21

I also had a much easier time with Y0 versus Y00. Y00 felt like it was starting to strip the first screw I tried to remove.

Joe -

My screws took a little coaxing before they were all ready to come out of the back plate, but I remedied this by turning the screwdriver as little as possible with each turn. Use almost no pressure, except for at the very beginning of each screw’s first turn.

nin10doh -

I think my screws are stripped, any way to get them out?

Banjomanperson -

I hear that using a rubber band can help? Not 100% sure on that though.

Pifase -

My top 2 screws are stripped, one into triangle, the other circle, rather than triangle spokes.

AndrewDaPro -

This happened when I replaced the micro-sd card slot, which turned out to have replaced the broken one with another one that turns out to be broken. I need to fix the fact that when I reapplied the back cover, the vent was misaligned.

AndrewDaPro -

I had huge problems removing the bottom two screws. I continued with the next steps and lifted the plastic shell as much as possible while using the screwdriver and it became an ease.

JustForThisComment?ComeOn -

y0 works best. Press HARD at beginning then ease off to finish.

J LWsMommy -

Passo 4

Usa un cacciavite JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit per rimuovere le seguenti viti che fissano il pannello posteriore:
Una vite lunga 2,5 mm sul bordo superiore del dispositivo
Due viti lunghe 2,5 mm sul bordo inferiore del dispositivo
Per evitare di spanare queste viti molto strette, premi verso il basso, lavora lentamente e prova un altro cacciavite JIS 000 o PH 000 se la vite non esce.

Hey guys, I tried removing the upper screw and it won't go out(neither will it go in) any tips how to fix this?

Thanks

Nemysis - 27/03/21

The screw boss might be stripped out. Has the device been taken apart before? If you can unscrew it a little bit to get the screw to peek out, maybe try and grab it with some pliers as a last-ditch effort.

Craig Lloyd - 29/03/21

I have the same problem. The JIS 000 tool works great on the joy con rails per step 5 but refuses to turn the bottom two 2.5 mm screws as in step 4. These bottom screws are noticeably smaller than the screws as in step 5. The JIS 000 does not get down into these screws. Hopefully they haven’t been stripped by the wrong tool. So is there a JIS tool that is smaller than 000? I’m stuck at this point…

david brown - 28/04/21

We used the JIS 3.0mm screwdriver for both top and bottom screws and it worked

Brooklyn Gardner - 07/05/21

Used PH00 to get these out with no problem.

cday - 05/06/21

Fun fact: these screw into little plastic tabs that stick out of the rear panel. Apparently those tabs are fragile and easy to just break off…

Benjamin Fritz -

If the screw is turning but not coming out, the plastic tab that it screws into is probably damaged or broken. You’ll need to try to pry the screw out with tweezers as you unscrew it. It is not the end of the world if you can’t screw these back in during reassembly.

claudio ocano -

My screws came out fine. But they are easily stripped with too much pressure on reassmbly

Jaxon Lee -

this screws are way too fragile and way too small so be careful when taking them off dont use much force and unscrew also one of them fell somewhere and spent 30 mins searching for it

Richard Aguirre -

PH000 will work if you don’t have JIS000. The large IFIXIT kit has both and I lost JIS000. Just be very careful as you can strip the heads when removing or inserting easier.

Shawn Spivey -

One thing that worked pretty well for me with the screws not coming out is slightly prying on the back cover to put them under some tension

Florian Kraupa -

Quick note, these screws are not magnetic. A magnetic screwdriver will hold onto any of the others safely, but you need to be careful not to drop these ones in particular.

Jason Lane -

These would just keep rotating and not come out. What worked was, as Florian Kraupa suggested, i slid a plastic pick just between the 2 shells near the screws to prise it open slightly, then unscrewed and out they came. They're the smallest screws I've ever almost not seen before, so be careful with them.

Susannah Carter -

Passo 5

Usa un cacciavite JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit per rimuovere le due viti centrali da 3,8 mm ai lati del dispositivo (una per lato).

I tried my JIS 000 on Step 5 and was unable to get the screw to budge. It’s partner from the other side came right out with no trouble. Don’t really want to narf up the screw, so I bailed out. Anyone else have this issue?

mrhoyt - 04/03/21

Could just be torqued down a bit more! I’d recommend making sure the driver bit seats nicely into the screw, apply some downward pressure, and slowly twist to try and back it out. Good luck!

Craig Lloyd - 05/03/21

Yeah I’m having this exact issue. Screw stripped and now I’m stuck. Wish I hadn’t even started.

Ryan Quinn - 22/05/21

I did finally get it out- one thing I noticed was some of the screws have blue Loctite on the threads. I guess they figure it’ll get tossed around. This underscores the importance of having the correct tools and making double darn sure you are using the correct size, etc.

mrhoyt - 05/03/21

What worked for me here was a Phillips 000, not a JIS 000

Federico Zivolo - 21/04/21

One of mine is totally stripped. Guess I can’t do anything now.

Nick -

My kit only has two screwdriver heads! The package was open when I received it!

Cynthia Hyland -

I had this issue as well. Screw was irreparably stripped. If you can get every other screw out, just keep applying pressure with a flat head screw driver right above the stripped screw and try to break the plastic piece holding onto the screw. It's a very minor invisible bit of damage that will allow you to continue the repair.

Raymond Garrison -

after getting all the other screws off I just hinged the back part away and it snapped off neatly where the rusted screw is. not the best solution but it worked.

Steve T -

One of my screws was SUPER attached too, but after following a bit noticed the one other in the left that got out nicely, had the plastic tab broken already! So I went ahead and broke the other tab too. So the two side screws are now holding nothing. But I think it will work thanks to the other 4 or 5 screws. Too bad!

carolaclavo -

i managed to get out one screw by putting a bit of paper over it which gave the screwdriver something to grip. The other side just won't budge and gets worse the more i try.

Steve T -

Passo 6

Usa il tuo dito per ruotare verso l'alto il cavalletto sul pannello posteriore del dispositivo.
Se c'è una microSD nello slot per schede microSD, rimuovila adesso prima di passare al prossimo passo.

Don't put your SD card on your magnetic mat.

Chris Cotter -

Passo 7

Usa un cacciavite JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit per rimuovere la vite da 1,6 millimetri nella sede del cavalletto di supporto.
Chiudi il cavalletto.

Passo 8

Solleva il pannello inferiore dal lato posteriore del dispositivo e rimuovilo.
[*icon_note] Il cavo di collegamento del lettore di cartucce è collegato all'altra metà della scocca di plastica impedendoti di sollevare completamente il pannello posteriore se chiuso.
Solleva il pannello posteriore dal fondo del dispositivo e rimuovilo

How to remove micro SD port?

Pull straight up, press back into place when closing back up.

Christopher Hernandez - 02/03/21

This step is missing in this guide. Here are the steps from another guide:

Step 9) Sostituzione sensore guida del Joy-Con destro Nintendo Switch

Step 10) Sostituzione sensore guida del Joy-Con destro Nintendo Switch

David -

When I lifted up the back cover, it kind of stuck near the headphone port (even with cartridge slot open). But it wasn't a screw or anything and I kind of carefully pulled and wiggled and the cover came off ok

Doe -

Passo 9

Con un cacciavite a croce JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit, rimuovi la singola vite da 3,1 mm che blocca sul dispositivo il lettore di schede micro SD.

Passo 10

Usa le dita o delle pinzette per sollevare dal dispositivo il lettore di schede microSD e quindi disconnetterlo e rimuoverlo.
Durante il riassemblaggio, verifica che il connettore a pressione sotto il pad in schiuma sia ben connesso alla scheda madre. Può essere utile rimuovere il pad in schiuma prima di reinstallare il lettore.

Yes. The reverse is not so simple- you can’t see what you’re doing when you attempt to reconnect and it only takes one small error to completely bend the contacts on the connector. Very delicate.

if you very gently remove the foam pad sticker, you can at least see better how it lines up and can feel your way to a degree… then you can stick the pad back in. The pad seems pretty critical in keeping things in place once reassembled.

holmzee - 08/12/19

Definitely agree about not sticking the foam pad back on until the new SD card slot is connected. Saved a lot of headache. Great walkthrough and easy repair!

Jonathan Stachewicz - 06/01/21

Tried several times to replace this SD reader module. As mentioned above, the issue is aligning the connectors together. It appears the foam tape is being used to hold the connection in place. (assuming you can make a viable connection) I am rather surprised at this design. In my experience, mylar ribbon cables like this usually slide into a small PC mounted socket. It appears Nintendo went the cheap route here. This design is prone to failure since it does not enable a positive connection - at least from what I can see.

Bill Little - 28/12/19

Alors je suis en détresse total . Jai cassé les bouches en or sur le connecteur qui est soudé sur la carte mère.. comment changer cette toute petite pièces, oû la trouver . Cela fais 1 mois que je cherche partout. Sans remplacer la carte mère. Merci pour vos réponses

Mike Snow - 23/03/20

I found it easier to connect it without the black foam pad so I could see and than add the foam pad over it. It was super easy and I an I 33 Mom doing this for my son. Was well worth the money for the kit saved us almost 100 bucks

Katherine Harrison - 12/05/20

Had my son follow this guide to fix his own switch where the ad card reader didn't work. And he did. Great instructions!!!! Thanks a million!

William Scott - 04/07/20

The only difficult part of following this guide is connecting the new sd card reader into the poorly designed motherboard connector. Its quite possible the sd card reader that came in the console wasnt broken at all.

The repair kit works just as advertised and even comes with stickers.

Matthias_ Links - 21/10/20

I’m still getting error 2002-2054 even after replacing memory card reader module. Thanks, Nintendo!

Wes Stephenson - 26/12/20

My switch won’t read my microSD card after I reassembled it (error 2016-0641) please help!

Nate Topical - 01/01/21

Tip: Keep the old SD reader piece loosely attached while you line up and gently press the new SD component into the connector on the motherboard. Once the new piece is snug, then carefully remove the old piece keeping the sticky foam in place.

I am a middle-aged mom with absolutely no special tech skills and I easily followed the directions and successfully fixed the broken SD drive. ifixit is the best!

Wende David - 29/01/21

Ah good! i have more confidence now in doing it once you said you're a middle age mom with no experience

Mohammad Hosein Yavari -

I missed this bit about reconnecting the SD card reader under the foam pad and didn’t realise until my son pointed out a data storage problem?. All fixed in about 5 minutes taking advice from the replacing the SD card reader fix, especially removing the foam pad from the connector to better see and feel what you’re doing. All sorted!

Stuart Farquharson-Roberts - 28/03/21

Awesome guide! Very easy to do with the supplied kit

cravenkeo khamone - 13/05/21

Tank you very much, and by tank I mean M1 Abrams, jokes apart easy and simple to follow

Elia Veschi -

Thanks for the guide, I was struggling to find a solution, replaced more sd cards, before I stumbled upon this post. The Switch of my children works flawless again!

Robert Morvai - 25/08/21

Doesn’t work! I have spent 4 hours and $26 on a tiny screwdriver and some stickers.. I just gave up and replaced the Switch instead.

I even contacted a local shop to have them fix it and they told me it really isn’t possible. Thanks for taking my money Ifixit!

J.R. Wood -

This helped me to reseat my SD card reader ribbon cable. I was getting the 2016-0641 error and no card work. A drop had dislodged the cable partially. And yes remove the foam pad gently to properly connect the cable. You can reuse the foam pad.

Kris Morey -

For anyone who ends up bending the pins like I did while trying to reseat the microSD card reader…

I suggest gently placing very thin tweezers (like the curved ones in the Pro Tool Kit) in the gap and very, very gently pressing them back into alignment. Took a little effort but I was able to realign them enough to sit it in place and have it later working after reassembling the console.

Yakarot Sennin - 13/01/22

Anyone have a suggestion where I can purchase replacement foam for this sticker?

Rob M -

When reassembling, note the alignment pins in the left and bottom notches before tightening the screw

Jason Lane -

Super gemakkelijk te installeren met behulp van deze zeer duidelijke handleiding (met dank aan de vertalers!)

Wel even goed opletten op de aansluiting op het moederbord is zeer fragiel.

R de Bruijne -

It is key to remember most out of the box issues with the SD card reader, do not require a replacement part and can be solved with disconnecting then re-connecting the reader at the motherboard.

Only when a simple re-seating at the connector doesn't work should you buy the replacement part.

Jonathon Sinclair -

I bought the kit and followed the directions. I plucked the black rubber foam off with a pair of eyelash tweezers. Putting the tiny screws back in place also was made easier using the tweezers. As for placing the SD card in place I think I got a bit lucky. I lined it up and gently pressed until it simply went into place. I do believe being gentle is the key there. But it went in and I put it back together. The deconstructing and reconstructing is what took the longest for me at least. I turned it on to verify it worked and then unpowered the unit and inserted the card. The system recognized and update right away and did it and then recognized the card! Just what I need for 20 something dollars. Son is happy and back to gaming.

Albert Baker -

Thank you for postingthis fix. The original sd card reader had come unplugged from the motherboard, so replacement reader will be a spare.

Anybody found a way to ensure the sd reader stays in place?

Craig Thwaites -

It was my first time repairing a Switch and the fan replacement wasn't too hard, but unfortunately I think there should be a better warning about the SD card connector because I damaged it while trying to put it back in. I couldn't hear any click and it didn't seem to stay put and I think I ended up applying to much force and damaging the pins.

Serge Huber -

What are the foam black squares called and where can I get a replacement for one?

Marcus -

It’s called Foam tape

Alberto -

What is the error code 404 for

Alberto -

Passo 11

Con un un cacciavite a croce JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit, rimuovi le sei viti da 3 mm dalla piastra di schermatura.

Some models have a small board in the lower left beneath the kickstand which accepts SD cards. This will have to be carefully removed with its connections popped out, then replaced after.

Draque Thompson -

Yeah, that “small board” is the microSD Card reader chip, which was covered literally one step ago. All models have a microSD Card reader, that’s how game data is stored…

nin10doh - 12/12/21

Passo 12

Usa un paio di pinzette per staccare il pezzo di schiuma sul bordo superiore del dispositivo vicino alla porta di scarico della ventola.
[* icon_caution] Se non riesci facilmente a staccare la schiuma, non forzarla! Potrebbe strapparsi facilmente. Sollevala cautamente da più punti fino a staccarla.

My Switch (bought about two weeks after launch) seems to be missing this foam piece… Was it added later, similar to the foam piece in the left joy-con (to improve connectivity)?

firetech - 05/02/21

It’s possible it was added to newer units! Nintendo slightly updated the internals of the Switch not too long ago.

Craig Lloyd - 05/02/21

My launch Switch also does not have this piece of foam, so it was most likely added later.

Christoph -

Also did not see this in my launch switch.

matthew.raehl -

Me three, no foam.

carolaclavo -

Passo 13

Inserisci uno spudger sotto la piastra di schermatura lungo i bordi.
Fai leva per sollevare con delicatezza la piastra di metallo e rimuovila dal dispositivo.
Potresti sentire un po’ di resistenza. È normale, la piastra di schermatura è blandamente attaccata al dissipatore con la pasta termica.
Una densa pasta termica rosa colma lo spazio tra la piastra di schermatura e il dissipatore di calore in rame sottostante. Ciò aiuta a prevenire il surriscaldamento della Switch.
Puoi riutilizzare la pasta termica rosa se sei attento. Mantieni pulita la pasta e assicurati che faccia un contatto solido tra il dissipatore di calore e la piastra durante il rimontaggio.
Se devi sostituirla, consulta la nostra guida sulla pasta termica per rimuovere quella vecchia e sostituirla con una pasta termica appropriata, come la K5 Pro, durante il rimontaggio.

How do you know if the thermal paste needs to be replaced?

Youji Hong - 27/08/19

Once you remove a heatsink you must always replace thermal paste even if you had just applied it ( or add a little more) . The reason is that once heat sink is fitted, paste splits around because of pressure and only needed amount will remain. If you remove the heatsink then some paste will move so when installed again there will be spots without paste. Hope this is clear enough. In any case cost of paste is very small compared to work time and value of your equipment…..

MacTek - 15/12/19

When your switch starts to lag and drop FPS, if you play breath of the wild and it starts to slow down in heavy areas like the forest where you get the master sword, can i use artic mx 4 insted of the pink compound?

Diego Soto - 30/08/19

I’d like to know as well if a cpu thermal compound like arctic mx-4 can be used to replace the pink compound

Adam Stillman - 06/09/19

No you shouldn't . It will spill around because it is not viscous enough and then there will be no heat transfer. As suggested by author K5 PRO is the most appropriate compound for such cases.

MacTek - 15/12/19

Arctic is generally only supposed to be used on bigger heat sinks like a personal computer. Its not nearly as thick or gummy compared to K5 PRO, and you should always use something that’s thicker for smaller project like a Switch/phone/tablet.

Shawn Christensen - 20/12/19

Why was this not included in the tools/equipment list? Getting to this step and now I will have to reverse and wait for yet another order to arrive. ? Very frustrated

Amanda Nally - 12/03/21

Hi Amanda,

Thanks for bringing this up. Sorry! We inadvertently left that part out during the guide refresh. I’ll add the necessary info into the step.

Arthur Shi - 12/03/21

To apply new thermal paste, the directions state to use the application method recommended for your specific processor type—vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread.

Which method should be used for the Nintendo Switch processor?

Philip W -

As stated in the comment above, is there a particular method to apply thermal paste to the Switch’s processor? Or as long as you distribute it evenly is enough?

lievjorg -

Is another thermal compound as MX4 or 6 okay as well?

Marceau -

does ifixit not have an appropriate thermal paste for this step?
there is only arctic silver 5 in the kit and i would guess that that should not be used in this case.
if true, the kit is incomplete

Lucas Tigy -

Passo 14

Inserisci l'estremità a punta di uno spudger per far leva e sollevare il connettore della batteria dal suo zoccolo sulla scheda madre.

be careful not to pry it off the board entirely

Nathan McKenna -

This was an old switch and the entire thing with the black plastic came off.. Most of the pins aren't there anymore, too.. is there a solution to that? Does soldering work?

Dawn Martin -

it's probably possible, but unless you have experience with microsoldering, you'd probably be better off taking it to a local repair shop

just some mango -

This step just ruined my device… wish there had been a warning of caution here.

Phone guy -

You can use a spudger to hold down the black plastic side of this connector that is supposed to stay attached to the motherboard while using the pointy spudger as shown in order to reduce any chance of pulling the socket off the motherboard.

Brian Edgin -

Passo 15

Usa un cacciavite a croce JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit per rimuovere le tre viti da 3 mm che fissano il dissipatore alla scheda madre.

Passo 16

Cautamente stacca dalla ventola i due pezzi di schiuma incollati sul dissipatore e sulla ventola.

Cautamente stacca dalla ventola i due pezzi di schiuma incollati sul dissipatore e sulla ventola.
Ti basta staccare la schiuma per liberare la ventola.
La schiuma è davvero delicata e tende a strapparsi facilmente. Usa la seguente tecnica per rimuovere la schiuma:
Inserisci la punta di uno spudger sotto la parte di schiuma che non è a contatto con nulla.
Premi il lato superiore della schiuma con un dito per tenerla ferma.
Ruota la punta dello spudger sotto la schiuma fino all'altra estremità per staccarla.

spudger technique is perfect.

Jaxon Lee -

For anyone who doesn’t have a pen-style spudger, the tip of your JIS 000 screwdriver can be a great alternative tool. The same steps above can be used, just be extra careful not to tear that foam. Roll the tip of the screwdriver the same way you would roll the spudger tip.

nin10doh -

Maybe it’s because I’m working on a day one switch and the adhesive is just old and stubborn, but this didn’t work well for me. Am I just completely out of luck, or can I order a replacement for the foam?

Trae Block - 09/03/22

I had the same problem and I found a foam manufacturer: https://www.foam-material.com/sample-cus...

I'm pretty sure the type is "Granular Activated Carbon Foam" and the thickness is 0.5 mm but I have no idea what the porosity is.

Garret Jaworski -

Yeah ripped the foam. Neither the screwdriver nor spudger technique worked. Day one switch, so 6 years old at this point.

Ndragonawa -

Does the foam need replacing if torn? What does it actually do.

Scott Norman -

I wanted to know as well, what does it do? Can I replace it with thermal pads?

Lord Aranorde -

Can I replace the foam with a 0.5mm thermal pad? Will it be a better solution?

Lord Aranorde -

The adhesive remover really helped here being a day one switch

Jeremy Ortner -

Passo 17

Usa uno spudger o le dita per sollevare il dissipatore verso l’alto e in direzione opposta alla scheda madre, per rimuoverlo.
Potresti avvertire un po’ di resistenza. È normale: il dissipatore è debolmente incollato alla CPU con della pasta termica.
Ripulisci la vecchia pasta termica dal dissipatore e dalla CPU, utilizzando dell’alcol isopropilico altamente concentrato (90% o superiore) e un panno in microfibra. Applica della nuova pasta termica sulla CPU prima del riassemblaggio.
Applica della pasta termica a tutte le superfici che l'avevano precedentemente, anche tra il tubo e la schermatura in alluminio, che la Switch utilizza come dissipatore aggiuntivo.

What's on the heatsink?

Unknown1224 - 25/08/19

Directions for this step say you can use Artic Silver ArctiClean but when adding to iFixit cart it says “This won’t work with your device (Nintendo Switch).

Dan S. - 03/06/20

where do i get more of that black fabric like tape that is on the heat sink?

Regal Pikachu - 04/06/20

They may sell it in the ifixit store.

Joshua Graham - 03/06/21

(1) Exactly how much thermal paste should be applied to the CPU?

(2) Which application method should be used? The linked instructions list four methods (vertical line, horizontal line, middle dot, or surface spread) but it’s not clear to me which one is appropriate for the Switch. Thanks!

Travis - 18/07/21

UPDATE: So, for anyone who also wanted to know the answers to these questions:

1. I ended up eyeballing the amount. Imagine an amount the size of a pea, then split that amount in half. That’s how much I used, and it worked fine.

2. The paste (I used K5-Pro as recommended) is quite thick and sticky and difficult to get to behave the way you want, so I ended up just doing the “middle dot” method and spreading it a bit with a popsicle stick before smushing it the rest of the way down with the heat sink. Seems to have done the trick.

Good luck!

Travis -

you can also spread it with the spudger or any non-metalic tool if you are not sure how much you put

just clean it afterwards

Richard Aguirre -

K5 (or thermal pads) is ONLY needed between the copper pipe and metal shield plate. It is a pad replacement compound and is not meant for high heat applications like CPUs as it boils and creates air gaps. Air=bad for heat transfer.

Regular thermal compound/paste should be used on the CPU. You’ll have a sticky mess to clean but if you want proper cooling it needs to be done. The instructions clearly state that regular compound is used on the CPU.

Cerus98 -

i used artic silver 5 and worked just fine

Richard Aguirre -

The steps doesnt specify but do you have to remove the heat shield from the cpu as well?

Jeremy Ortner -

Passo 18

Usa un plettro o un'unghia per sganciare l'aletta di bloccaggio incernierata del connettore ZIF del cavo del digitizer.

This step broke my switch i can't use my card reader anymore! i tried numerous time the reverse it seems my headphone jack works but my touchscreen and gamecard reader is broken. Even worse one of the screws to attach this plate was mangled so i cant even replace it anymore because the screw wont come out anymore. I reallly hate that i followed this guide others suggested to just keep the gamecard touchscreen ribbon attached and just fold it like a book. I wished i did that. I not gonna bother to even buy an gamecard replacement anymore. Its time to buy an switch oled and be done with this!

Kar Wai Chan -

The advice to "fold it like a book" will not work, as the cable will need to come out of the switch in order to replace the screen. It can not be kept in the slot.

Loris Hofer -

To anyone reading this step: This is not an isolated incident. The loss of functionality of the game reader board, which includes the use of reading cartridges, the touchscreen, and the headphone jack, is an possibility that can happen if you disconnect the board. Unless you are replacing the board itself, do not do this step. As of 1/15/2023, there is no know reason why this happens or no known solution other than buying a new game reader board.

Henry Terrance -

Update: If your Switch has lost the ability to read games and or the headphone jack in addition to touchscreen functionality, please consider reading this thread and its solution: Nintendo Switch Cartridge Reader Not Working After Fan Replacement

Henry Terrance -

it is really hard to see what you need to flip up. look at it from different angles. it's the thinnest little strip of black plastic.

Patrick Laffan -

If you're scared of breaking this piece, you can skip step 18 and 19, and just flip the reader over to the left (after step 20-22). Worked for me, be careful though it might bounce back.

Cato_nm -

Please help I replace the game card read and head phone. Now my switch wont even turn on.

Chase Blackstone -

Passo 19

Usa un paio di pinzette per sfilare il cavo dalla sua presa parallelamente alla scheda per la lettura delle schede di gioco.
Prima di inserire il cavo durante il rimontaggio, assicurati che la linguetta di blocco del connettore ZIF sia sollevata.
Con il cavo parallelo alla scheda, inseriscilo delicatamente nel suo connettore.
Non forzare il cavo nel connettore. Se non si inserisce, assicurati che la linguetta di blocco sia alzata, riposiziona il cavo e riprova.
Se il touchscreen non funziona dopo la riparazione, ma il lettore di schede di gioco funziona, assicurati che questo cavo sia correttamente inserito. Se neanche il lettore di schede di gioco funziona, controlla invece il connettore della scheda di gioco nel passo successivo.

The reverse of this is a little tricky - it may be helpful to post some more detail about getting the ribbon all the way back in and ensuring the clasp goes down to troubleshoot some of the touchscreen comments below.

Nick Wagner - 04/01/21

This seems to be purely for the touchscreen to work, if you remove the headphone/card reader the switch will still function fine, however without somewhere for this cable to reattach your touchscreen will be disabled

Ian Wilson -

the reverse of this is tricky. i'd suggest a better tool kit with this that includes real tweezers so i don't have to use my wife's

Patrick Laffan -

Did you get it to work finally?!

Chris Cotter -

Hi Chris! From the thread, it looks like it's not this connector that's the problem, but the press connector in the step below. If your card reader won't read cards, check to make sure this connector is fully aligned and seated.

Arthur Shi -

This connection was a problem for me. I tried the connection many times before it worked. What finally worked was lining up the gold rectangle on the back of the smaller part to overlap/cover the port very carefully. This required me to compress the ribbon a bit. Not much force required to finish the connection.

Tyler Rhodes -

I found it much easier to reinsert the ribbon while the reader board was fully disconnected. This way I was able to simply hold the reader board with my fingers and slide it over the end of the ribbon while the ribbon was just sticking up in the air. The ribbon is quite stiff and slipped in VERY easily in such a way that I felt confident that it was fully seated. Then while holding it in one hand, I flipped the locking flap down with a spudger in the other. You might also be able to seat the board and the ribbon will likely stay inserted under its own tension, then flip the locking flap down.

Brian Edgin -

Passo 20

Usa la punta di uno spudger per rimuovere dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre il connettore della scheda per il jack audio e il lettore di schede di gioco.
Per riattaccare i connettori a pressione come questo, allinea attentamente e premi su un lato finché non scatta in posizione, quindi ripeti sul lato opposto. Non premere al centro. Se il connettore è mal allineato, i pin possono piegarsi e causare danni permanenti.
Se lo schermo touchscreen non funziona e/o le schede di gioco non vengono rilevate dopo il rimontaggio, potresti non aver ricollegato completamente questo connettore a pressione. Disconnettilo con attenzione e riprova.

Note that if the card reader mentions it won't read cards, this cable has not been reconnected correctly. Watch the connectors are not bent when reattaching

Shaniqua Bowdre -

You need to push the connector upwards. Look at the image and you will see a very slight bend. This bent allows the connector to align with its dock. Very very careful when pressing down IT HAS TO BE ALIGNED.

Juan Visani -

This step had me most stressed during re-assembly. I saw in a video elsewhere where the person reattached the press connector BEFORE screwing it back in which gave them more room to work with. They also pointed out that there's an outline on the top that should line up with where it reconnects. This helped me re-connect with more confidence.

Level 100 Psyduck -

I also reconnected this connector before screwing the reader down. You will not have to contend with the pressure from bending the stiff wide cable leading from the connector.

claudio ocano -

Passo 21

Usa un cacciavite a croce JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit per svitare le 3 viti da 3,1 mm che tengono ferma la scheda del jack audio e del lettore di schede di gioco.

Passo 22

Usa le pinzette o le dita per rimuovere il supporto per il jack audio.

Passo 23

Usa le pinzette o le dita per rimuovere la scheda del jack audio e del lettore di schede di gioco.

Passo 24

Usa un plettro, uno spudger o un'unghia per sganciare la piccola linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata del connettore ZIF del cavo a nastro del display LCD.

I recommend when reinserting the LCD ribbon cable, DO NOT bother with the tweezers.

The sharp end is incredibly hard and the Gold on the Ribbon cable incredibly soft. Even trying to avoid gold-plated end, I still damaged it re-inserting it into place.

I recommend first turning the console around to face you (so you can see how the ribbon slides in), then pressing gently with your finger to try and slide it in.

Yakarot Sennin -

Ifixit should change the guide. I just ruined a perfectly good screen scratching the flex with the tweezer... Cmon, if i only had seen the comment before!

Afonso -

Passo 25

Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere il cavo a nastro dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

Passo 26

Usa un plettro, uno spudger o un'unghia per sganciare la piccola linguetta di bloccaggio incernierata del connettore ZIF del cavo della ventola.

Passo 27

Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere il cavo della ventola dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

Passo 28

Usa un plettro, uno spudger o un'unghia per sganciare la piccola linguetta articolata di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo per i tasti di accensione e volume.

Passo 29

Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere il cavo a nastro dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

Passo 30

Usa un plettro di apertura, uno spudger o un'unghia per sganciare la piccola linguetta di bloccaggio del connettore ZIF del cavo più piccolo del display LCD.

Passo 31

Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere il cavo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

Passo 32

Usa un plettro di apertura, la punta di uno spudger o un'unghia per sganciare la piccola linguetta del connettore ZIF del cavo del Joy Con destro.

Passo 33

Usa delle pinzette per rimuovere il cavo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

Passo 34

Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre il connettore del cavo nero dell'antenna.

Passo 35

Usa la punta di uno spudger per sollevare dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre il connettore del cavo bianco dell'antenna.

I broke the connector off of the board what can I do to fix it? Where can I get a part for the board to be able to click the wire back in. The solder points is still the to re solder but where to find the part to fix is a nightmare!!!! PLEASE HELP THANKS IN ADVANCE 🙏

Danny Dean -

Passo 36

Usa le mani o delle pinzette per rimuovere il connettore dello speaker destro dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.
Non fare forza sui cavi del connettore. Sono sottili e possono rompersi facilmente.

Passo 37

Usa le mani o le pinzette per rimuovere il connettore dello speaker sinistro dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.
Non fare forza sui cavi del connettore. Sono sottili e possono rompersi facilmente.

Passo 38

Usa un plettro, uno spudger o un'unghia per sganciare la piccola linguetta del connettore ZIF del cavo del Joy Con sinistro.

Passo 39

Usa un paio di pinzette per rimuovere il cavo dalla sua presa sulla scheda madre.

Passo 40

Usa un cacciavite a croce JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit per rimuovere le seguenti viti:
Quattro viti da 2,5 mm
Due viti da 3,1 mm

Passo 41

Inserisci uno spudger in uno degli spazi tra scheda madre e scocca.
Prestando attenzione, solleva la scheda madre facendo leva sullo spudger e rimuovila dalla scocca.

My motherboard was getting caught on the fan, I found it much easier to remove the fan first, then the motherboard.

I'd suggest steps 40/41 and 42/43 should be reversed

Kitsune -

mine too, its almost impossible to remove the board without breaking it so long as the small lip on the fan is there, possibly a difference in production models?

Golden Glory -

Passo 42

Usa un cacciavite a croce JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit per le tre viti da 4,8 mm che tengono ferma la ventola.

Passo 43

Usa un paio di pinzette o le dita per sollevare e rimuovere la ventola.
Confronta la ventola di ricambio con l'originale. Potresti dover trasferire sulla nuova ventola alcune componenti (come le boccole in gomma) prima di installarla.

Passo 44

Usa un cacciavite a croce JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit per svitare le quattro viti da 3,7 mm che tengono ferma la guida del Joy-Con destro sul telaio del dispositivo.
Queste viti sono molto strette e può essere difficile rimuoverle. Per evitare di spanarle, premi verso il basso, lavora lentamente e prova un cacciavite diverso se la vite non esce.

Passo 45

Rimuovi il sensore della guida del Joy-Con destro.
Stai attento a non impigliare il cavo dati del sensore nel telaio del dispositivo durante la rimozione.

Passo 46

Usa le dita o delle pinzette per sollevare il connettore della batteria e disporlo in modo che non interferisca per accedere al cavo del sensore della guida del Joy-Con sinistro.

Passo 47

Usa le dita o un paio di pinzette per sollevare il connettore della batteria verso l'alto e metterlo da parte per accedere al cavo del sensore della guida del Joy-Con sinistro.

Passo 48

Usa un cacciavite a croce JIS 000 o quello PH 000 ufficiale di iFixit per svitare le quattro viti da 3,7 mm che tengono ferma la guida del Joy-Con sinistra alla cornice del dispositivo.
Per evitare di spanare queste viti molto strette, premi verso il basso, lavora lentamente e prova un cacciavite diverso se la vite non esce.

Passo 49

Rimuovi il sensore della guida del Joy-Con sinistro.

Passo 50

Usa l'estremità piatta di uno spudger per sollevare il cavo a nastro di alimentazione/volume fissato con nastro adesivo.

Where is the step stating to remove the battery?

Lynn -

Hi Lynn,

There is no instruction for removing the battery in this procedure because it's not necessary. Due to the way guides are combined into a single sequence, occasionally a step may be repeated or a picture may show parts in place or absent that aren't related to the particular job being done, which is what happened in this case.

The photo was taken during a midframe replacement procedure; if you were replacing the midframe you'd need to remove the battery, but for just the front frame the battery can stay in place, especially since battery removal is rather difficult on these devices.

Jerry Wheeler -

Passo 51

Rimuovi la scheda accensione/volume con un paio di pinzette con la punta arrotondata.

Passo 52

Estrai il cuscinetto conduttivo in gomma con un paio di pinzette a punta arrotondata.

Passo 53

Estrai i pulsanti di accensione e volume con un paio di pinzette a punta arrotondata.

Passo 54

Sfila via il cavo coassiale nero dal telaio centrale.

Passo 55

Continua a seguire il filo, sfilandolo mentre procedi.

Passo 56

Solleva il cilindro di metallo che circonda una parte del cavo coassiale dal telaio centrale.

Passo 57

Afferra la scheda dell'antenna WiFi con un paio di pinzette e sollevala verso l'alto per rimuoverla.

Passo 58

Scalda un iOpener e appoggialo al bordo inferiore dello schermo per un paio di minuti per ammorbidire l'adesivo.
Puoi anche usare un asciugacapelli, una pistola termica o una piastra scaldante, ma stai attento a non surriscaldare il dispositivo: lo schermo e la batteria sono facilmente danneggiabili dal calore eccessivo.

Passo 59

Fai aderire una ventosa all'angolo in basso a sinistra dello schermo.
Tira verso l'alto la ventosa con forza costante per creare una fessura.
A seconda dell'età del tuo dispositivo, questo può essere più o meno difficile. Se stai avendo problemi, scaldalo ulteriormente e riprova.
Infila la punta di un plettro nella fessura, assicurandoti di infilarlo solo per 5 mm.

Passo 60

Fai scorrere il plettro sotto il bordo inferiore dello schermo per tagliare l'adesivo.
Lascia il plettro infilato sotto lo schermo per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli.

Passo 61

Infila un secondo plettro nella fessura a sinistra del primo plettro.
Fai scorrere indietro il secondo plettro verso il lato sinistro del dispositivo.
Lascia il plettro infilato.

Passo 62

Scalda il bordo sinistro dello schermo per un paio di minuti per ammorbidire l'adesivo.

Passo 63

Continua a far scorrere il plettro attorno all'angolo in basso a sinistra per tagliare l'adesivo.

Passo 64

Continua a far scorrere il plettro sotto il bordo sinistro dello schermo per tagliare l'adesivo.

Passo 65

Scalda il bordo superiore dello schermo per un paio di minuti per ammorbidire l'adesivo.

Passo 66

Continua a far scorrere il plettro attorno all'angolo in alto a sinistra dello schermo per tagliare l'adesivo.

Passo 67

Continua a far scorrere il plettro sotto il bordo superiore dello schermo per tagliare l'adesivo.

Passo 68

Scalda il bordo destro dello schermo per un paio di minuti per ammorbidire l'adesivo.
Infila la parte piatta di uno spudger nella fessura sotto il bordo sinistro dello schermo.
Solleva attentamente e lentamente il bordo sinistro dello schermo, aprendolo come un libro.

Passo 69

Solleva il bordo destro dello schermo dal dispositivo, facendo passare i cavi a nastro attraverso la cornice.
Stai attento a non far impigliare i cavi nella cornice mentre rimuovi lo schermo.
Puoi riutilizzare l'adesivo dello schermo se è ancora appiccicoso. Altrimenti, sostituisci l'adesivo con del nastro biadesivo come il nastro adesivo Tesa.

As well as the screen adhesive, you also need the double sided dust seal to go around the LCD / Digitizer. This seals the digitizer to the LCD screen.

This is separate to the double sided tape that glues the digitizer to the frame.

Mustafa Salim -

Passo 70

Rimuovi le quattro viti che fissano il pannello anteriore al telaio centrale.

which screws are these? type/length?

Stijn -

Passo 71

Solleva il bordo anteriore della cornice, poi falla scorrere verso la parte superiore del display per rimuoverla.

There is a little clear bit of plastic that can fall out, make sure you put it back in the front frame before reassembly.

Nathaniel King -

Where can I get a replacement of this little thing ? I lost it 😭

Jayke Walker -

Do the screws that attach rails screw into the front frame, mid-frame, or both? My son dropped his Switch and one of the rails came off. I replaced both rails but the screw holes on the broken side are damaged and the screws will not grab anything. I’m not sure if I need to replace front frame or mid-frame, or both.

Bmd -

The screws go into the midframe only; you won't need to do anything with the front frame except remove it to replace the midframe. When ordering a midframe, I'd suggest finding one that has the pad already installed on the LCD side; I had no luck finding that pad separately when I wrote the guide.

Jerry Wheeler -

If you're replacing the front shell, make sure you are also replacing the speaker dust covers. These did not come as standard with my ExtremeRate shell, so I had to buy separately.

Mustafa Salim -

Sostituzione pannello anteriore Nintendo Switch

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