Sostituzione schermatura LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi

Passo 1

Se il tuo vetro è rotto, evita di romperlo ulteriormente e di tagliarti con le schegge coprendolo con del nastro adesivo.
Applica delle strisce di nastro adesivo trasparente da pacchi sul vetro, una sopra l'altra, finché non è completamente coperto.
Ciò conterrà le schegge di vetro e manterrà l'integrità strutturale quando dovrai fare leva e sollevare lo schermo.
Fai del tuo meglio per seguire il resto della guida come descritto. Comunque, una volta rotto il vetro, continuerà a rompersi mentre ci lavori e potresti dover usare uno strumento di apertura in metallo per rimuovere il vetro.
Indossa degli occhiali protettivi per proteggere gli occhi e stai attento a non danneggiare il pannello LCD.

Need some extra instruction on how to handle a truly shattered glass. There was only one spot that the suction cup would even hold on the whole screen - top right, and even with tape there is very little structure to drive a pick under. how do you handle that?

Greg Crawford - 13/06/20

Passo 2

Prendendolo dalle alette, appoggia l'iOpener scaldato sul bordo a sinistra del tasto Home dell'iPad.
Lascia l'iOpener appoggiato per circa cinque minuti per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto il vetro.

Can you explain how using the iOpener ? That's can be great !

Matthieu Nasri - 09/01/16

The iOpener used is essentially a bag of gel, which you put in the microwave for 30 seconds. You lay this against the screen edges to transfer heat and loosen up the glue.

You could also use a hot-air blower with a re-work station but that's up to you. Mine worked well up to 150°C

Sam Attwood - 09/01/16

what about heating a cloth bag filled with rice in the microwave? Would that work?

SkipR - 14/12/16

That might work! Rice is less likely to get, and stay, hot enough. But it can't hurt to try! Just be sure you're being patient and letting it really warm up before you pry. People have had luck double bagging a washcloth dipped in very hot water, too.

Sam Goldheart - 14/12/16

Passo 3

Applica con cura una ventosa al centro del bordo scaldato.
Assicurati che la ventosa sia completamente piatta sullo schermo per avere la miglior presa.
Mentre tieni fermo l'iPad con una mano, tira verso l'alto la ventosa per separare leggermente il vetro dalla scocca.
Assicurati di sollevare il vetro giusto il necessario per infilarci un plettro: se lo sollevi di più potresti romperlo.

I'm having trouble getting the suction cup to stay connected to the screen to pull it. It just isn't creating a seal no matter how flat I make it. I thought maybe the crack was causing it, so I tried tape. I originally didn't put tape on it because it wasn't losing glass. The tape made it worse of creating a seal. Any advice?

William - 11/02/17

After following instructions to cover cracked glass with packing tape, the suction cup won’t adhere at all. Not even a little bit. Any suggestions?

Brian Tate - 14/07/18

I had that exact problem when I fixed an Iphone 8. What I did was that I put some ducktape where the suction cup would be placed. That worked for me. That’s of course is if you where doing to replace the glass anyway.

Pontus Sennerstam - 16/09/18

I had a screen on an iPad 4 that was so shattered that I literally had to spend 2.5 hours picking every single piece of glass out with tweezers after pulling the few larger pieces off with tape on them. Sometimes you need a lot of patience to be successful. The final cleaning out of the sticky tape along the sides is also very important once the glass is removed. Or the new screen will stick out an/or not go in neatly.

Michael Burger - 17/01/19

I also had a problem getting the suction cup to adhere. Tried tape, no luck until I added some KY jelly, which did the trick.

cskilton -

Passo 4

Mentre tieni sollevato il vetro con la ventosa, infila la punta di un plettro nella fessura tra il vetro e la scocca dell'iPad.
Non infilare il plettro oltre la cornice nera del vetro. Inserendolo a profondità maggiore, potresti danneggiare il pannello LCD.
Tira la sporgenza sulla ventosa per rilasciarla e rimuovila dal gruppo dello schermo.

Could I use some guitar picks? If so, what gauge (thickness) of a picks should I get?

SkipR - 14/12/16

I'm not sure what the correct balance of thickness to strength you'd need, maybe try a couple different types. The idea is to be thin and fit into the smallest gap, but if it gets bogged down in adhesive, it needs to be strong enough to push through. Be sure to use heat and be patient!

Sam Goldheart - 14/12/16

i have to use a blow dryer and pack that came with the replacement is there anything i could do to make the adhesive more hot?

Ace of Spades -

Passo 5

Riscalda e riappoggia l'iOpener.
Stai attento a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante la riparazione. Aspetta sempre almeno dieci minuti prima di riscaldare nuovamente l'iOpener.
Lascialo appoggiato per qualche minuto per riscaldare il bordo sinistro dell'iPad.

Well if you want to save some time and your screen is shattered just pry up one corner either left or right side at the top and tear the whole screen off going down towards the home button but do not completely remove the screen there is a wire connecting the digitizer to the board inside but tearing off the screen will skip you down to step 29 :-) i seen this in a video and saved me about an hour after the fact because my screen was cracking as i was inserting the blue picks so i ripped the whole screen off and used some adhesive remover to get off all the extra goo leftover

Chris Grayden - 22/03/16

Passo 6

Infila un secondo plettro accanto al primo e fallo scorrere sotto il bordo dell'iPad verso l'angolo inferiore per tagliare l'adesivo.
Durante tutta la procedura, se incontri troppa resistenza mentre fai scorrere i plettri sotto il vetro, fermati e riscalda la parte sulla quale stai lavorando. Fare troppa forza con i plettri può rompere il vetro.

I found that all the following step were much easier for me using a heat gun while keeping the pull on the screen with the suction cup. Basically heat up a section, put the suction cup on, keep pulling the screen upwards on that side, while using the heat gun to continuously heat along the side. It came nicely off, one or two inches at a time. Once I had a whole side up, I just put some of the picks in to keep it up and continued along the side, heating, pulling, heating pulling. This obviously only works if the screen is not totally shattered. Mine only had two cracks.

Michael Burger - 17/01/19

Passo 7

Continua a far scorrere il plettro verso il basso dello schermo per tagliare l'adesivo.
Se il plettro si incastra nell'adesivo, "ruotalo" attorno al bordo dell'iPad per rilasciare l'adesivo.

Passo 8

Prendi il primo plettro che hai inserito e fallo scorrere sotto il vetro verso l'angolo superiore dell'iPad.
Se vedi la punta del plettro sotto il vetro, niente panico: semplicemente tira un po' indietro il plettro. Probabilmente tutto funzionerà ancora, ma cerca di evitare che succeda per evitare di depositare sul pannello LCD dell'adesivo, che sarà poi difficile da rimuovere.

Passo 9

Scalda di nuovo l'iOpener e appoggialo al bordo superiore dell'iPad, sopra la fotocamera frontale.
Stai attento a non surriscaldare l'iOpener durante la riparazione. Aspetta sempre almeno dieci minuti prima di riscaldare nuovamente l'iOpener.
Se hai un iOpener flessibile, puoi piegarlo in modo da scaldare sia il bordo superiore sia l'angolo superiore sinistro allo stesso tempo.

Passo 10

Fai scorrere il plettro attorno all'angolo in alto a sinistra dell'iPad per tagliare l'adesivo.

Passo 11

Fai scorrere il plettro lungo il bordo superiore dell'iPad, fermandoti prima di raggiungere la fotocamera.
La terza immagine mostra dove sono posizionati nell'iPad la fotocamera frontale e il suo supporto.
Evita di passare il plettro sopra la fotocamera frontale: potresti sporcare la lente con l'adesivo o danneggiare la fotocamera. I prossimi passaggi ti mostreranno come evitare al meglio di interferire con la camera frontale.

Passo 12

Tira leggermente indietro il plettro e fai scorrere solo l'estremità della punta oltre la sezione della fotocamera frontale.

Passo 13

Lascia il plettro infilato nell'iPad appena oltre la fotocamera frontale.
Prendi un altro plettro e infilalo a sinistra della fotocamera, dove sei già passato con il primo plettro. Fai scorrere questo plettro tornando indietro verso l'angolo in alto a sinistra per tagliare l'adesivo rimasto.
Lascia il secondo plettro infilato sotto l'angolo per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli.

Passo 14

Reinfila più a fondo nell'iPad il primo plettro e fallo scorrere allontanandolo dalla fotocamera verso l'angolo a destra.

If you have the LTE there is a cable on the right upper side! There’s no mention of this in this guide even though it’s for the LTE. I found out after the fact when I saw I cut the cable with the pick.

Will Lyon - 21/05/19

Will Lyon, you may want to look again. This is the guide for the WiFi version.

mcr4u2 - 24/02/20

Passo 15

Lascia i tre plettri sotto gli angoli dell'iPad per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli.
Scalda ldi nuovo 'iOpener e appoggialo al rimanente lato lungo dell'iPad, quello destro dove ci sono i tasti di accensione e del volume.

Passo 16

Fai scorrere il plettro nell'angolo in alto a destra attorno all'angolo per tagliare completamente l'adesivo.
Lascia il plettro in questa posizione per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli e prepara un altro plettro per il prossimo passaggio.

Passo 17

Infila il plettro che hai preparato sotto l'angolo in alto a destra e fallo scorrere verso il centro del bordo destro dell'iPad per tagliare l'adesivo.

This is not an LTE ipad mini 3, it is a wifi ipad mini 3

lordofmordor - 26/07/18

Passo 18

Continua a far scorrere il plettro fino all'angolo in basso a sinistra per tagliare l'adesivo.

Passo 19

Lascia i plettri sotto gli angoli e scalda di nuovo l'iOpener.
Ricorda di non surriscaldare l'iOpener: non scaldarlo più di una una volta ogni dieci minuti.
Appoggia l'iOpener riscaldato al bordo inferiore dell'iPad, sopra il tasto Home, e lascialo lì per qualche minuto per ammorbidire l'adesivo sotto il vetro.

For those who are replacing a severely shattered front panel, be aware that there are two smart cover magnets attached to the interior side of the front panel that you will need later. Keep an eye out for them (see steps 49 and 50 below for pictures of what these tiny magnets look like) so that you don't have to go digging through the debris later.

Jeff G - 29/10/16

Passo 20

Fai scorrere il plettro sotto l'angolo in basso a sinistra attorno all'angolo per tagliare l'adesivo.
Lascia il plettro sotto l'angolo. Non andare oltre e non rimuovere il plettro dall'iPad.
Ci sono alcune componenti da evitare sotto il bordo inferiore, quindi presta attenzione alla terza immagine:
Antenne
Alloggio tasto Home
Cavo digitizer
I prossimi passaggi ti mostreranno dove fare leva per evitare queste componenti. Scalda e fai leva solo dove indicato.

Passo 21

Lasica dove si trova il plettro che hai usato neell'ultimo passo dove si trova per evitare che l'adesivo si reincolli.
Infila un altro plettro e fallo scorrere delicatamente sopra l'antenna sinistra, fermandoti prima del tasto Home.
Fai scorrere il plettro solo verso il tasto Home dall'angolo sinistro. Non farlo scorrere in direzione opposta o potresti danneggiare l'antenna.
Se devi far scorrere il plettro lungo il bordo inferiore più di una volta, rimuovilo e reinfilalo vicino all'angolo e fallo scorrere verso il tasto Home.
Lascia il plettro vicino al tasto Home prima di procedere.

Passo 22

Infila solo la punta di un ultimo plettro accanto a quello del passaggio precedente e fallo scorrere sotto il tasto Home.
Fermati a circa 25 mm dall'angolo destro per evitare di rompere il cavo del digitizer.
Infila il plettro più a fondo e fallo scorrere verso il tasto Home.
Come nell'ultimo passaggio, assicurati di far scorrere il plettro solo nella direzione che va dall'angolo verso il tasto Home quando è inserito a fondo, altrimenti potresti danneggiare l'antenna sotto il vetro.

Do NOT insert the pick much deeper to the right of the home button, you can easily damage the fingerprint ID chip.

kimhoover - 12/08/18

There is no fingerprint id chip in an iPad mini 2 (retina)

blakebest - 30/09/18

Be very careful in the vicinity and to the right of the home button. Only insert the very tip of the pick (similar to the instructions earlier for by the camera). Do not try to go beneath the home but as suggested here, just along the glass edge. I damaged the small metal clip under the button and detached the IC tape from the button, meaning I had to replace the glass touch screen with digitiser and home button.

PeterB -

Passo 23

Scalda di nuovo e riappoggia l'iOpener al bordo superiore dell'iPad.

Passo 24

Stai molto attento durante questo passaggio. Prenditi tutto il tempo necessario e assicurati che l'adesivo sia caldo e morbido, e di aver tagliato abbastanza adesivo con i plettri. Non esitare a fermarti e scaldare di nuovo se necessario.
Sul bordo superiore dovresti avere un plettro infilato sotto ogni angolo. Torci i plettri per fare leva e sollevare leggermente il vetro, separando l'adesivo rimasto sotto i bordi.
Se incontri troppa resistenza fermati. Lascia i plettri in posizione, scalda di nuovo e riappoggia l'iOpener e fai scorrere un plettro sotto il punto problematico un'altra volta.

Passo 25

Solleva delicatamente e lentamente il bordo superiore per separare l'adesivo lungo gli altri bordi.

Passo 26

Una volta separato tutto l'adesivo, apri il vetro come la pagina di un libro e appoggialo sulla superficie di lavoro.
Se vuoi riusare il gruppo dello schermo, durante il rimontaggio dovrai sostituire l'adesivo. Segui la nostra guida per l'applicazione dell'adesivo dello schermo per farlo e sigillare di nuovo il dispositivo.

This picture and several others that follow are not for the "LTE" model.

Tim Osborn - 08/12/16

Some of the steps, including the comments, are replicated between guides. Be aware! This can render them somewhat generic, and possibly non-optimal. For instance, this step is replicated between at least the mini 2 LTE, mini 2 Wi-Fi, mini 3 LTE, & mini 3 Wi-Fi.

ciradrak - 17/12/18

Maybe that’s because this is for the WiFi model.

mcr4u2 - 24/02/20

Remember to remove the old black adhesive from the digitizer and iPad frame. Some can be pulled out and some needs a sharp blade to remove. This will give you room to apply your new adhesive strips when reassembling.

Yousef Ghalib - 16/09/17

Passo 27

Il supporto della fotocamera frontale potrebbe restare incollato al vetro: rimuovilo e rimettilo sulla fotocamera per proteggerla.
Fai oscillare il supporto attorno a uno dei suoi bordi per liberarlo dall'adesivo e poi rimuovilo dal vetro.
Rimetti il supporto della fotocamera frontale nel suo alloggio nella scocca.

Passo 28

Svita le seguenti viti a croce Phillips #00 sche tengono fermo il pannello LCD:
tre viti da 3,3 mm
una vite da 4,5 mm
Se c'è del nastro sopra qualcuna delle viti, rimuovilo con delle pinzette.

This is VERY IMPORTANT please be sure to put the screws EXACTLY how they were when you removed them otherwise your screen will not rotate when you put the new digitizer on. i closed my ipad thinking everything was ok but now the screen does not automatically rotate, but lucky i jailbroke my ipad first and have an activator gesture to rotate for me :-)

Chris Grayden - 22/03/16

stripped the screws at the home button side of the ipad and the precision screw extractor set is too big to work. help?! paramedic064@gmail.com

paramedic064 - 25/03/16

We have some great posts on Answers about getting stripped screws out, you can refer to What are your tips/tricks for removing or extracting stripped screws? for advice, or ask a new one and see if someone can come up with new ideas. We also have a stripped screw removal guide for you to check out. Good luck!

Sam Goldheart - 28/03/16

I found that Phillips #000 work better then the Phillips #00 for this entire product. I'll be recommending a change to the fix kit as well.

William - 11/02/17

This is a tip:

I have a terrible time cleaning the lcd because no matter how hard I try not to touch it, I always get smudges! So take my advice…remove the front film from the new digitizer and place it over the lcd. It is bigger so you can cut it down or just lift it to get to the screws. Now no fingerprints and also less chance for scratches. The front side is easy to clean once it’s installed so need to have that covered while working-the insides are what needs protecting.

mamashannon4u - 05/02/18

Passo 29

Non cercare di rimuovere del tutto il pannello LCD: è ancora collegato all'iPad da diversi cavi sul bordo inferiore. Sollevalo solo dal bordo superiore, quello con la fotocamera.
Infila la parte piatta di uno spudger tra il pannello LCD e la schermatura e solleva delicatamente il pannello.
Stai attento a non infilare lo spudger sotto la schermatura. Deve essere tra il pannello LCD e la schermatura.
Piegare il pannello LCD anche solo leggermente lo può danneggiare irreparabilmente, quindi stai molto attento mentre lo sollevi.
Puoi provare i seguenti metodi alternativi per sollevare il pannello LCD e ridurre le possibilità di romperlo:
Fai scorrere un sottile filo (come filo interdentale o lenza) sotto lo schermo, iniziando dal bordo superiore e tirandolo verso quello inferiore.
Usa una sottile e flessibile scheda o una banconota in polimeri per tagliare l'adesivo iniziando dal bordo superiore.

Be very careful not to get the spudger under the shield plate, but between the LCD and the shield. Also, not that on the LTE models, the antennas are at this end and there is a bit of adhesive holding this end of the LCD down.

Tim Osborn - 08/12/16

This bit of adhesive is located beneath the foam, and runs the entire length of the antennas. You must lift the foam and detach the tape before you're able to get the top to come out the chassis

James - 12/02/17

This is not present in this tutorial and is very frustrating. I fix it must look into this

James - 12/02/17

I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

bababooey - 29/04/17

Thanks for the fishing line suggestion. It certainly worked for me (used 6lb test line). With using the fishing line, one is a lot less likely to break the LCD compared to using a spudger.

rgstout - 25/05/17

awesome tip thanks

Pa Du - 10/06/17

The tutorial procedure should be edited once and for all to instruct to detach the adhesive strip from the top of the LCD prior to attempting to lift it. Failure to do so will invariably result in a broken LCD!!!

The simplest way to do that is to first gently remove the foam strip running around the top of the LCD with a pair of tweezers. Only then will the shiny metallic adhesive tape be visible and accessible.

lorenzocangiano - 30/08/17

I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

Abbot - 07/01/19

The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

Timothy McEvoy - 28/04/19

Yeah, I broke my LCD because the guide did not specify the glue on the top portion if you have an LTE model. I didn’t even try hard at all. I tried to lift it with the plastic spudger and saw that it did not move. Came to check the comments and when I looked back the top corner was already broken.

Thanks iFixit! Awesome guide

Jorge Tamez - 17/05/19

Another LCD broken victim. Getting it loose from the adhesive was easy. However, it would not fold over like a book. Something had it bound at the bottom. Heard the dreaded crack. First iFixit fail for me.

Vince Kowaleski -

Passo 30

Il pannello LCD è tenuto fermo da un leggero adesivo che dovrebbe essere ammorbidito prima di sollevare il pannello stesso dalla schermatura.
Infila lo spudger tra il pannello LCD e la schermatura sul bordo superiore e fallo scorrere lungo tutto il bordo dell'iPad.

Hi. I noticed that the tutorial is for an LTE iPad mini 2. However, these pictures do not show and LTE device. I'm having issues removing the LCD from the iPad due to the antenna. Any suggestions? (How to remove antenna?)

Kevin Rodriguez - 17/12/16

This step needs extra detail on how the LCD adhesive should be loosened. I've now got stress marks on the LCD which show up when solid backgrounds are displayed on screen as the LCD flexed when trying to pry it out.

Cool_Breeze - 10/01/17

I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

bababooey - 29/04/17

thanks you very much!

ind w -

Great tip about the fishing wire because you will most certainly crack the LCD just yanking it out. Thank you and hit em with the hein

Curtis Jordan Lenox - 08/01/18

I found that if you take two flat plastic spurgers and run one down each side together it works fairly well. Just take your time.

Abbot - 07/01/19

The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

Timothy McEvoy - 28/04/19

"mild adhesive" is really an understatement.
The LCD is firmly attached to the metal plate below it.
Especially if you try to repair an older ipad, the adhesive gets hard.
Do not attempt to lift the LCD with spudgers in an attempt to get it out.
You will break it.
Use fishing line or some other strong wire to cut loose this adhesive.
Even a strong sewing wire will do (it will take 5~6 wires because sharp edges of the housing will cut the wire easily).

Sjaak Spoiler -

Passo 31

Due larghe strisce di nastro adesivo collegano il pannello LCD agli speaker.
Tieni il pannello con una mano e la scocca posteriore con l'altra.
Non cercare di rimuovere del tutto il pannello dall'iPad.
Tira delicatamente via dagli speaker il pannello per separare l'adesivo, stando attento a non tirare il cavo del digitizer.

this was a pain to remove but the two pieces of tape should be separated using your spudger so that you can remove the lcd.

Chris Grayden - 22/03/16

absolutely. lift the screen 45 degrees before pulling it too

Billinski -

The screen was a tight fit in the recess. Whilst maneouvering it out, it flexed a little. Once reassembled, there are now feint stress marks visible when the screen displays a uniform background. With photos it's not noticeable, but on solid backgrounds, it is very noticeable. :-(

Be careful when pulling the LCD out. Any hints for pulling it out safely should be added to this step.

Cool_Breeze - 10/01/17

This step is bad advise. Once you get the LCD unglued top and sides, drop those plastic tools behind it to keep it up and apply heat to the front bottom of the LCD where the tape is applied on either side, use your spudger to push the tape away before you attempt to pull or flip the LCD over. It is very easy to break if you don't get the tape loose enough, so do yourself a favor and free the LCD from the tape before you attempt to maneuver it.

brentschwartz - 11/01/17

I have seen countless comments about the LCD breaking when trying to remove it from the LCD shield with adhesive. I have found a simple solution. Once the 4 screws have been removed take a piece of fishing line (longer than the iPad) and simply run it beneath the top of the LCD from one side to the other. Once it's in place, gently pull it down applying equal pressure from both sides. The fishing line will break the adhesive in the process, freeing the LCD. It has worked for me every time.

bababooey - 29/04/17

As others have said this step is rather problematic and following the tuturial instructions will most definitely lead to damaging the LCD. One problem is that the two adhesive tapes are not indicated in the photo: they are large and black and they are partly covered by long strips of thicker material that looks like padding. To remove them it helps to heat a little with the opener and then one can slowly peel them away by alternating the sharp and flat tips of the spudger.

lorenzocangiano - 16/08/17

This must be the most difficult part. I took the advice of using fishing line and it worked a treat. However, due to lack of knowledge - I managed to slice straight through the LCD ribbons (all of them). I figure it was glue so kept going! Please take not that fishing line is only good for the sides, not the top where the LCD is attached! New LCD on order for round 2.

Mike - 26/09/17

Well. I cracked the LCD during this process, so another $100. But, it’s the journey that counts, right? There is adhesive keeping the LCD attached to the aluminum shield. As I was prying the LCD up (I didn't know about the adhesive), I did hear feint cracking. Also it is too tight to try to flip the LCD over as shown. I did heat the bottom strips, but still tried to do it as shown, more cracking. It seems best to heat it and push the adhesive strips back and separate them prior to lifting. As well as the sides of the LCD for lifting!!

William Dailey - 13/05/18

I separated the small tape in the middle (5mm), and the large upper tape (20mm), but left the lower tape at the connector in place. That way, the LCD was much easier to pull away gently and to tilt over.

peterhebbinckuys - 14/10/18

I used a needle nosed tweezers to remove the tape on the bottom left and right. I then used the plastic spudger and went between the LCD and the metal piece. I gently went down the left side about half way and then the right and slowly and gently worked both sides until they separated.

Abbot - 27/10/18

This step is unclear and should be revised, but Abbot’s comment has the right idea. The tape holding the LCD in place should be highlighted in the image. This tape wraps around the lower edge of the panel and extends onto the front face, then a piece of cushion is attached on top. Heat that tape to soften the adhesive then peal it up. The connector for the LCD is on the back side of the panel in the lower right hand corner, it is not near the tape you are pealing away from the panel. Once the tape is separated very little force is required to shift the panel toward the top of the device as depicted. If you attempt to ‘pull the LCD away from the speakers’ with two hands as shown, it will almost certainly be broken. Also, all the youtube explanations (at least the ones I could find) of how to remove the LCD make it look like you lift up on the top which would only cause the LCD to break. So youtube failed this step as well. It’s not easy, be careful.

P.S. as these steps are replicated between more than one device –– I’m working on an iPad mini 3 LTE, the tape may be in different places on other devices?

ciradrak - 17/12/18

The LCD is extremely fragile, DO NOT allow it to bend or you will break it. The adhesive near the speakers that connect to the LCD are a danger spot and if you pull wrong you could break the LCD. Be careful.

Timothy McEvoy - 28/04/19

The three tapes is best removed with tweezers! Then the LCD is easily flipped over. Extremely odd it’s not explained in this way.

trnilsson - 12/10/19

It is MANDATORY to loosen the 3 tapes as well (step 36), don’t even try to lift it without loosening them first!!!! After you did it you can turn the screen without any resistance! Should be added in this guide!!!!

Ishino Akatawa - 13/06/20

I just broke my LCD during this step (35). Frrt! I was pulling it back as instructed, and the LCD flexed in my hands. Need a better process.

Sean Koch -

Like other commenters I found this step inadequately treated. The LCD didn't want to fold over like it ought to and It took me a while to decide how to proceed. I would suggest that one first identify the plastic hinge strips. Zoom in on the pics: there's a lot going on at that edge, it's all black, and you don't want to mess with any of the cable strips, etc. I used a hair dryer to loosen the hinges (I suspect one could heat up a small piece of metal bar and place it on the hinges to loosen) and gradually stretched it. I also think that using gloves instead of holding the LCD with bare fingers would help avoid smudging (I spent a bunch of time getting rid of finger marks.)

cskilton -

Passo 32

Non cercare di rimuovere del tutto il pannello LCD: è ancora collegato all'iPad da diversi cavi sul bordo inferiore. Sollevalo solo dall'estremità superiore, quella con la fotocamera.
Apri il pannello LCD dell'iPad come un libro, sollevando il bordo superiore e rovesciandolo sul case posteriore ruotandolo attorno al bordo con il pulsante home.
Sii delicato e presta attenzione ai cavi del pannello mentre lo giri.
Appoggia il pannello sul vetro per avere accesso ai cavi dello schermo.

Passo 33

Fai scorrere la punta di uno spudger tra il pannello LCD e le linguette adesive per liberare lo schermo.
Spingi delicatamente ognuno dei due nastri: stai attento a non danneggiare nessuno dei cavi nelle vicinanze.

This was harder than it looks. The adhesive tape covers a lot of area and has stuck to it tiny wires that go to the speaker. I had to use the tweezers to very carefully separate the wire from the adhesive, and to then pull the adhesive off the circuit board area in one spot before it would finally come away.

Ray Everett - 25/02/19

Be careful that it does not pull up all the foam strips, that was my issue.

Shane - 26/09/20

Passo 34

Svita le sette viti a croce Phillips #00 da 1,8 mm sulla schermatura.

My LCD shield plate had many more screws than this. You have to remove them all.

David Rowthorn - 25/09/17

My plate had 8 on the upper line, 6 + 2 at bottom. 16 total.

There are strong magnets on the sides and they keep catching the screws as you take them out. Tweezers are helpful to fish them.

Gina Romo -

At the assembly stage I found it is easier to use Philips PH000 screw driver bit than PH00. It helped me to get these minuscule screws in place, catch the head holes and drive them into their tight position. While using PH00 the driver would not catch the holes in their head and I was risking scratching the display since the screws refused to settle in the openings.

mxmbulat - 30/12/18

Passo 35

Usa la parte piatta di uno spudger per fare leva sulla schermatura per sollevarla dall'iPad.
Rimuovi la schermatura.

You can also just slide it back to expose the cable bracket.

Will - 19/08/17

Sostituzione schermatura LCD iPad Mini 3 WiFi

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